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NEWBIE: I need help finding a fedora

mageemm

New in Town
Messages
4
Location
Colorado
I did find the Tilley fedora, and I liked its looks. I know that they made great hats, that probably transfers to their fedora as well. The two things I was concerned with were they didn't say what the bill (nomenclature?) length was, and I was concerned with a black hat in the summer heat. Thoughts?
 

jlagman

New in Town
Messages
37
Location
Toronto, Ontario, Canada
mageemm said:
I did find the Tilley fedora, and I liked its looks. I know that they made great hats, that probably transfers to their fedora as well. The two things I was concerned with were they didn't say what the bill (nomenclature?) length was, and I was concerned with a black hat in the summer heat. Thoughts?
I guess most people think that the major problem with the Tilley fedora is it's styling and lack of options. It's a love-it-or-hate-it hat and if you do hate it, there's unfortunately not much you can do about it without making drastic changes which will probably void your warranty (this feels like one of the discussions I'd be having at my car club lol :eek:fftopic: ).

Tilley doesn't list the brim size on its site so I've done a bit of measuring myself, so forgive the crude and approximate measurements. The front of the brim measures approximately 2.8", the back about 2.5", and the sides close to 2.25". Like I said before, there are virtually no options if you don't like the way it looks; if you don't like the crown, you'd probably have to get it reblocked professionally, if you like to wear the brim snapped up...buy another hat, the longer front doesn't look so good snapped up.

I can't say too much with reagards to wearing it in summer heat, I've only owned it since December but I can say that the lining does a pretty good job at wicking away sweat in the few instances I've worn it in a warm environment like a stuffy classroom in winter, when the heat's been cranked up too high. Other than that there is no ventilation and keep in mind that this is not beaver felt (which I've heard breathes better than most other fur felts).
 

mageemm

New in Town
Messages
4
Location
Colorado
I have read that there is no real way to compare the fur felt quality in X's from one hat maker to another. But does anyone have any insight on how the quality of felt compares between the Stetson Temple, and the Akurba Fed IV?

I noticed neither one advertises the X quality in these particular styles. So does anyone have a best guess on that, or what that might translate into with % beaver?
 

Goose.

Practically Family
Messages
898
Location
A Town Without Pity
mageemm said:
I have read that there is no real way to compare the fur felt quality in X's from one hat maker to another. But does anyone have any insight on how the quality of felt compares between the Stetson Temple, and the Akurba Fed IV?

I noticed neither one advertises the X quality in these particular styles. So does anyone have a best guess on that, or what that might translate into with % beaver?
Akubra is bunny rabbit :)
Someone posted that it takes eight hares to make a Federation IV Deluxe. Add one more bunny if you want a Deluxe with cheese.
 

carldelo

One Too Many
Messages
1,568
Location
Astoria, NYC
Goose. said:
Akubra is bunny rabbit :)
Someone posted that it takes eight hares to make a Federation IV Deluxe. Add one more bunny if you want a Deluxe with cheese.

Don't you mean 'Royale with cheese'? And please pass the Vegemite....
 

The Elizans

Familiar Face
Messages
85
Location
Southcoast, UK
Vintage Lock & Co

Hello!

For durability, comfort and style, I'd say vintage Lock & Co is bar far the best in all these categories. I have worn all three of mine (1930's, 1940's and 1960's ) through the most appalling English costal weather and they are impermeable by the elements. They are the densest felt (feel like clay) and when crushed (sat on by idiots) are steamed to their original shape without any expert coaxing. Style wise- Lock & Co, enough said.

N.B. throughout their heyday, Brooks Brothers were American stockists of Lock and Co, take a look on ebay…

For now, here’s my oldest, most travelled (and most treasured)

lockco.jpg


lockco_inner.jpg
 

Dewhurst

Practically Family
Messages
653
Location
USA
mageemm said:
I have read that there is no real way to compare the fur felt quality in X's from one hat maker to another. But does anyone have any insight on how the quality of felt compares between the Stetson Temple, and the Akurba Fed IV?

I noticed neither one advertises the X quality in these particular styles. So does anyone have a best guess on that, or what that might translate into with % beaver?

Ok, to answer the questions. X's are completely arbitrary in relation to the quality of the hat, and there is no consensus among hat manufacturers and bespokes folks whatsoever. Speaking very generally, X's are usually only used in reference to a felt hat when there is Beaver fur in the felt. The X's will sometimes increase with the amount of Beaver fur used in the fur mixture. However, many brands do and have used the trimmings in their X equations as well. So, they may tack on an extra X if they used a better sweatband. Or they will add X's depending on what kind of finish the felt body is given.

Some brands will include mixtures of fine furs in a felt, and not put any X's on it at all. Due to the arbitrary nature, it simply depends on the internal labeling method of each company, or the mere whims of some employee. :)

I'm sorry I am unable to help you on the quality of the felt of those two hats. Both hats have decent reputations, with the felts used by Akubra being locally favored around the Fedora Lounge. The Stetson Temple is made using a Soveriegn quality felt, and this is a good felt.

Finally, with some hats that claim a high percentage of fine fur in the felt mixture but don't give specifics, you just can't know sometimes. I have actually contacted a few companies about this when they use ambiguous language about high amounts of fine fur in the mixtures, and I never get a detailed reply. One company actually told me that all they knew was that it had wild hare in it, which isn't really useful because the felt is described as having a mixture of fine furs in the felt.

Hope this helps.
 

xbeatles4x

One of the Regulars
Messages
104
Location
Miami
Relatively new to hats

Ok I have been for the past few days in the market for a nice hat to wear everyday.

Background on me to help first. I am in Miami where it is pretty hot, humid and rain is a sort of common occurrence. I am 18 going to college and wanted a nice hat that is not a "disposable" hat.

I have been favoring the akubra campdraft, and the federation iv. Both seem like good hats but I can not decide on color or which hat. For the time being I want to get one but you never know I might end up with others.

I was putting some thought into this and I know that I usually rock my saddleback leather messenger bag in chestnut. I guess that is something to consider.

CLC-ME-CH-PS-SLC01Br1C-1900.jpg


With that in mind I was trying to figure out the ideal color. I do like the brown federation but at the same time I feel like it might be a little too much like Indiana Jones. I do like the snap down idea.
 

xbeatles4x

One of the Regulars
Messages
104
Location
Miami
Hah you beat me to it. I was just about to post a picture of what I was thinking color wise. Right now I was thinking of Taupe Brown (at least that is what I think it is called), or maybe dark brown but wanted to know how good of an all round color it is

Right now I might be convinced of the federation ever so slightly but wanted to know for daily status what is ideal.

Upon further research it looks like the color I was trying to refer to was tawny fawn (not taupe brown).
 

splintercellsz

I'll Lock Up
Messages
6,142
Location
Somewhere in Time
A hat is a functional accessory. The hat is designed to keep the sun off of your head, neck, and out of your eyes. It does well in keeping the rain & snow off as well. Akubras are held in high-regard to their durability.

I find the best thing is to not overthinkg it. The minute that starts, and you make a purchase, you will continue to doubt if it was the right choice.

Earth-tones work best with earth-tones. There are a few exceptions, but those are a few.
 
A hat is a functional accessory. The hat is designed to keep the sun off of your head, neck, and out of your eyes. It does well in keeping the rain & snow off as well. Akubras are held in high-regard to their durability.

I find the best thing is to not overthinkg it. The minute that starts, and you make a purchase, you will continue to doubt if it was the right choice.

Earth-tones work best with earth-tones. There are a few exceptions, but those are a few.

I couldn't agree more. The minute you start to think of a hat as a fashion statement, you're doomed. That doesn't mean you don't chose a stylish one, however. You can't go wrong with a basic tan or brown hat. They go with pretty much everything.
 

jlee562

I'll Lock Up
Messages
5,104
Location
San Francisco, CA
Concur with both the gentlemen above, with the added comment that silverbelly is an exceptionally easy color to match as well. A silverbelly Campdraft, emulating the famous Stetson Open Road, is a classic look. It's considered a sort of 'dress western' by some. But it's a versatile look that can be paired with a suit or something more casual.

The Fed is also a good choice. And it's a well made hat. I consider my carbon grey Fed to be my go to rain hat. It has been worn in some pretty decent rain and is still not in need of a reblock.
 

xbeatles4x

One of the Regulars
Messages
104
Location
Miami
Well I do not want the western look at all. I think I am leaning toward the camp draft at the moment and am debating what color. Im thinking brown of tawny fawn.


Edit: Like I said at the moment I am going for a more casual look.

Since miami gets hot I am thinking the fawn due to not being as dark of a color.
 
Last edited:

jlee562

I'll Lock Up
Messages
5,104
Location
San Francisco, CA
stetson_1950_open_road_00.jpg


It works with a lot. Take a look at the Open Road and Campdraft threads on the board. I'd actually argue that the Campdraft makes a better casual hat than the Fed.
 

xbeatles4x

One of the Regulars
Messages
104
Location
Miami
I guess my other question is how bad is wearing a light colored fur felt hat in miami like weather?
 

xbeatles4x

One of the Regulars
Messages
104
Location
Miami
Alright so the lighter tawny fawn should be ideal for me then. I mean now it comes down to convenience since I like both colors.

Now for rain protection. If I get caught in a torrential downpour what should I do with the hat? What about once I get to a dry location?
 

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