New 'Vintage' Garment: Dry Clean or Tailor First?

[SteveN]

G'Day Gentlemen,

What's the prevailing wisdom: dry clean or tailor a new acquisition first? One one hand, I can see tailoring first, so it can be fresh and clean afterward. On the other hand, cleaning first might make it easier for the tailor.

Anyone with an opinion on this? Or does it not really matter?

Cheers,
- SteveN

 

[CaddyKid21]

The dry cleaner next to my work dry cleans clothing when he is finished with it. So you might aswell just get it tailored then get it dry cleaned. Its your call though.

 

[tonyb]

I'm way off topic here, CaddyKid, but that's a great avatar photo you have there. Who, when, where, what is it?

 

[Rachael]

It depends on what you are having done. If there are repairs to be made, always have that done before any cleaning is attempted. No matter the process, there is always the chance that the cleaning process will make a hole into a tear, a crease into a break.

If you simply need size adjustments, I don't see an advantage one way or the other. However if the tailor you use doesn't have the ability to give a good pressing, I would dry clean after the tailoring so that the cleaners can do this for you.

 

[anon`]

I always go to the tailor first. That way, the dry cleaners can press out any creases left by letting out a seam or lowering a cuff. Two birds and all that...

 

[CaddyKid21]

I'm way off topic here, CaddyKid, but that's a great avatar photo you have there. Who, when, where, what is it?

The man is my Mom's grandfather from her Mom's sisters side, Reynor, around 1935-6 I think the photo is from judging from the car. I have no idea were, im guessing Pasadena, because thats out were my moms family lives.
I think he was proud of his Ford! We all take pictures of us with our cars right? lol

 

[tonyb]

I think he was proud of his Ford! We all take pictures of us with our cars right? lol

Well, they sure did back then. There are numerous photos of my maternal grandfather posed with his various automobiles.

On the thread topic ... Yeah, it seems sensible that you'd do the repairs, alterations, etc., before cleaning and pressing, for the reasons Rachael and anon ennumerated.

 

[der schneider]

nein nein nein dry clean first unless there is some terrible damage. If damaged ask the tailor his preference. giving a tailor a suit that is not clean will not win points for you and will not be as likely to be well pressed

many tailors wont touch a suit that isnt clean

A tailor worth his salt will deliver a well pressed garment after altering.

on a vintage garment always look in the crotch, the bottom edge of the hem,
the ends of the sleeves and the center seem of the coat. these are the places most likely to have unrepairable wear. also check the zipper and hook and eyes and button holes.

I speak from experiance

 

[Tomasso]

many tailors wont touch a suit that isnt clean

And I wouldn't blame them.

 

[SteveN]

Hmmmm. Good points. I was thinking along the same lines when I asked.

Cheers,
- SteveN

nein nein nein dry clean first unless there is some terrible damage. If damaged ask the tailor his preference. giving a tailor a suit that is not clean will not win points for you and will not be as likely to be well pressed

many tailors wont touch a suit that isnt clean

A tailor worth his salt will deliver a well pressed garment after altering.

on a vintage garment always look in the crotch, the bottom edge of the hem,
the ends of the sleeves and the center seem of the coat. these are the places most likely to have unrepairable wear. also check the zipper and hook and eyes and button holes.

I speak from experiance

 

[Guttersnipe]

Dry Clean First...

As already stated, it's pretty inconsiderate to give a tailor dirty piece of clothing.

Also, sometimes moth chews that weren't apparent before a dry cleaning are revealed after a dry clean.

I think it has to do with residual fiber fuzz inside the holes being cleaned away or something. Sense tailoring can get pricey it's best to make sure you really want to put money into a piece - and dry cleaning costs WAY less then alterations!

 

[Forgotten Man]

I hardly ever take any new members of the closet to the cleaners when first I buy. If it needs to be altered, I'll have that done... but, most times when you buy something at a vintage store, it's been to the cleaners once already, so it shouldn't be too dirty. Also, dry cleaning puts miles on your vintage! If the item is dirty, and it's obvious that it hasn't been to the cleaners in a wile, then you should just have altered then cleaned. The tailor doesn't really care, he just does his work (And in some cases damage) and then cleans so that way it's fresh and ready to go when you pick it up.

 

[Hemingway Jones]

Alteration, then clean. Some alterations, actually most alterations, require a garment to be at least pressed again afterward.

You don't know who wore if before you, so you want it cleaned.

I say, do you alterations and then have it cleaned and it will be ready for you to wear.

 

[Undertow]

I tend to clean first, tailor second. If there are any wrinkles after tailoring, I usually just steam them out (which you should probably do with a boiling tea kettle if need be).

My tailors have always told me they want a CLEAN garment prior to work, so I oblige.

 

[Rachael]

Speaking as a tailor, I would much rather deal with a little dust or mustiness than have to repair damage done by dry cleaners who don't know how to handle delicate fabrics. And as HJ said, it will need to be pressed after tailoring in any event. Many tailors have the equipment to do both, but for small operations like mine, I either recommend drycleaning or take the garment to a trusted cleaner myself for an additional fee.

 

[Edward]

Interesting discussion, folks. Quite honestly, I don't know what I have had done in the past, as the place I use for simple alterations is also a dry-cleaners. I must ask them next time I'm in which order they do things in.

 

[SteveN]

Water & Dry Clean?

Just thinking this though, and leaving out the tailoring part, it seems that, if you wanted to get a 'new' garment really clean, you'd run it through a water process & a dry cleaning one.

The thinking being that the 'dry' clean would take out any unknown oil/grease stains, and the water any sweat or water soluble based contaminants.

Anyone go to this length, or just a dry clean before wearing?

Cheers,
- SteveN