New to Sport Coats

[BladeOfAnduril]

Hello gents! I'm hoping you can provide some guidance for me. Lately I've come to realize that my wardrobe is lacking a key item - a sport coat. Until fairly recently I wouldn't have had need of one, as I used to dress like a typical college kid. This year I've been making an effort to dress better.

I've found dress shirts that fit me well and have acquired about a weeks worth of them, as well as some khakis and grey flannel trousers. I own one black suit.

I need advise on where to start with sport coats. What color, fabric, etc... should I start with? I'd like to get a tweed (something like this in olive) but that will be too warm for the hotter months that we are in now.

So what are your suggestions for a 'first' sport coat? What should I look for when shopping for one?

Thank you for any insight!

 

[DamianM]

Well its really up to you and what you are truly looking for.
Does it have to be vintage? Just asking since all I wear is aimed at the 1930s

A light brown jacket would go great with your grey flannels

Another variations but with a DB worn as a sports coat, DB jackets with Patch pockets are mostly associated as sports coats/suits as well

Here's a great variation for a green sports coat.

You can grab a linen jacket for the warm weather months again in a light hue of brown or a simple cream/off white.

Try to stick to a color you like and that will swing with your current garments or if you decide to get new items make them all interchangeable allowing you to have a larger combination variety.

I have a dark green 50s patch pocket jacket that is a great sports coat. If you are interested PM me

 

[Fastuni]

Generally you'll obviously need two, one heavier tweed (or comparable woolen) and one lighter weight for summer. A third one in a medium weight tweed/woolen or gabardine would be optional.

Color and pattern wise, I'd look for a brownish tweed for the "winter" sportscoat. A orange, red or blue windowpane are a nice touch. The fabric could also be in a herringbone weave.
I personally am not very fond of "olive" and also would avoid overly loud colors and patterns that are modish among some of the "bespoke crowd".
Brown tweed goes exceedingly well with grey flannels.

For summer I'd recommend a sport coat made from lighter wool, linen or cotton. A good color to go with chinos would be blue.

Regarding the cut... a sport coat can be cut like a normal suit jacket, usually a bit more loose/comfortable and with "sporty" features like patch pockets (which I would recommend). If you like vents, go for it.
I wouldn't recommend leather patches on the elbows.

All under the assumption that you aren't looking for a specific "vintage decade", but a "classic/timeless" style.

 

[Patrick Hall]

So what are your suggestions for a 'first' sport coat? What should I look for when shopping for one?

The thing that makes sport coats tricky is their tendency towards patterned fabrics that can be hard to match into outfits, if you aren't accustomed to pattern matching. Sport coats tend to show off louder checks, glen plaids, houndstooths, etc. For a first coat, I would choose one in a wool that could be worn most of the year, in a brown or a gray color, and without a bold pattern that will be difficult to match up with shirts and ties. If you buy a jacket that is too bold in color or pattern, it will sit in your closet because you will be unsure what to wear it with.

 

[BladeOfAnduril]

Thank you for the wonderful advice so far. Vintage vs. modern doesn't really matter to me. I am looking for timeless. I have no interest in trends. So either will do. I do prefer single breasted to double. Though in all fairness I have not actually tried double breasted anything.

 

[Metatron]

My favourite styles are grey/black herringbone, or grey/brown with coloured flecks, because to my eye they look more appropriate for town.
I agree with Fastuni in that I'm not a big fan of olive tweed, or anything that is mossy/mud/country influenced.
The 'farmer' association will be too tempting for most people.
Not that it matters, but I also think that aesthetically, the mossy tweeds look more appropriate in the country.
Just a personal preference of course!

I also think that herringbone and/or flecks look quite striking on a younger man (which I assume you are), rather than some more earthy combinations which can look a bit frumpy/uptight.

 

[Edward]

Hard to go wrong with a traditional navy blazer. If you're living with anything like the oppressive heat London is currently suffering, I'd suggest looking for linen or cotton (or a mix of the two).

 

[Metatron]

I feel sorry for anyone who has to wear a jacket in this weather!

 

[The Wiser Hatter]

Head to eBay with your size and keep and eye out I have picked up a few Harris Tweed jackets for the winter and fall.

 

[Tomasso]

I second Edward's choice of a blue blazer. I would choose a mid weight hop sack cloth for its open weave which offers breathabity for the warmer months but with surface texture that can coordinate with heavier fabrics for cooler months. In lieu of metal buttons you can add some fancy horn or MoP which will serve to make it more casual and also to distinguish it from an orphaned suit coat. Personally, I'd go with a notch lapel two button (or 3 roll 2) front with patch pockets and side vents. Oh, and a skeleton lining for the warmer months.

 

[Guttersnipe]

I third Edward and A.C.'s recommendation of a navy blue blazer. While blue blazers aren't the most exciting garments, they are hands down the most versatile odd jacket you can own.

As far as choosing patterns, the best piece of advice I've ever read is given by Alan Flusser in Dressing the Man. He recommends that if you're contemplating a sport coat, hold a pair of gray flannel trousers next to them and ask, "does this combination work together?" If the answer is "no," they don't buy the sport coat because it's tough to match with everything.

 

[Patrick Hall]

I third Edward and A.C.'s recommendation of a navy blue blazer. While blue blazers aren't the most exciting garments, they are hands down the most versatile odd jacket you can own.

And a fourth! I can't believe I neglected to mention the navy blue blazer. This should definitely be your first sport coat if you don't already own one. I'm not sure I can think of a more versatile wardrobe item. Goes with practically everything.

 

[Edward]

I feel sorry for anyone who has to wear a jacket in this weather!

Today was the first days of the year I was forced to go without a jacket in London. Vile. If one absolutely cannot wear a jacket, it is too warm. Mind you, were it up to me, it would never be hotter than 21 Celsius - and that only for two weeks in August.

 

[Guttersnipe]

To illustrate the versatility of a blue blazer, when I travel for work, which is a ton, I will sometimes go on the road for 5+ days with the following: navy blue blazer; three pairs of trousers (gray, dark tan, and horizon blue); three shirts (plain white; pale blue button-down; one subtle check); an assortment of ties; and chocolate brown cap toes. Through careful rotation, I can make it an entire week without a repeated outfit. With that assortment, I was once out of town for twelve days straight (if you count the weekend). The only extras I took were a pair of black shoes and two-three extra ties!

And a fourth! I can't believe I neglected to mention the navy blue blazer. This should definitely be your first sport coat if you don't already own one. I'm not sure I can think of a more versatile wardrobe item. Goes with practically everything.

21 degrees sounds cold. What's a "Celsius" by the way . . . lol

Today was the first days of the year I was forced to go without a jacket in London. Vile. If one absolutely cannot wear a jacket, it is too warm. Mind you, were it up to me, it would never be hotter than 21 Celsius - and that only for two weeks in August.

 

[MikeBravo]

Hard to go wrong with a traditional navy blazer. If you're living with anything like the oppressive heat London is currently suffering, I'd suggest looking for linen or cotton (or a mix of the two).

An

suggestion

 

[Tomasso]

To illustrate the versatility of a blue blazer, when I travel for work, which is a ton, I will sometimes go on the road for 5+ days...

Hopsack is also a great cloth for travel; not wrinkle free but pretty darn close. Might have something to due with its basket weave construction.

 

[Guttersnipe]

Hopsack is also a great cloth for travel; not wrinkle free but pretty darn close. Might have something to due with its basket weave construction.

I've notice that coarser weaves in general travel better, except for linen that is. A really great fabric for travel is fresco. It has a slightly tighter weave than hopsack, so it's a bit dressier, but overall has a similar look. It breathes great too and in heavier weights drapes really well, yet maintains its breathability. It's pretty tough to find OTR garments made from fresco, though, and I don't think I've ever seen an OTR fresco blazer.

 

[Two Types]

Edward: Despite the weather, I'm still wearing a jacket. Where else can you put all the things like phone, sunglasses, keys wallet etc? (unless you are thinking of carrying a man-bag?)

 

[Hal]

...were it up to me, it would never be hotter than 21 Celsius - and that only for two weeks in August.

Hear, hear!
(a) it's so much easier to regulate one's thermal comfort at lower temperatures;
(b) higher temperatures are not friendly to traditional/classical dressing.

21 degrees sounds cold. What's a "Celsius" by the way . . . lol

0C = freezing, 5C = cold, 10C = cool, 15C = moderate, 20C = delightful, 25C = hot,
30C = heatwave. Easy!

Edward: Despite the weather, I'm still wearing a jacket. Where else can you put all the things like phone, sunglasses, keys wallet etc? (unless you are thinking of carrying a man-bag?)

You have a point. Because I wore a jacket at work except in warm weather, colleagues knew that I was carrying a pen and I was always being asked to lend it to them!

 

[herringbonekid]

i couldn't find a good colour vintage example so here's Ethan (the man for contemporary classic) of the Armoury in a navy blazer:

p.s. somehow a navy blue blazer has managed to elude me in nearly 16 years of vintage buying. i have three navy suits, one orphaned (pinstripe) navy jacket, but no stand alone blazer. poor show !