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New made to order jacket verse vintage or pre worn jacket

Edward

Bartender
Messages
25,074
Location
London, UK
Interesting responses on here. Myh own wardrobe tends to be primarily new - both leathers and other bits. As is the case with most folks, I'm sure, money and space are both at a premium for me, and I just can't justify owning something I'll never wear. While I do tend to dress "vintage" full time (though that often means pulling together a reasonable facsimilie of an early fifties look based on what I can find available), I'm not really that bothered as to whether my bits were made today or in 1933. TBH, Had I the money, I'd have all my suits made in Henry Poole now, but to thirties and forties patterns. It's the styls of the period that matter to me, not collecting orginal garments from the period specifically. As I said, limits to space and money.... also, I'm at the upper end, size-wise, of "vintage sizes"; it's relatively rare to find original bits that fit me and which aren't crazy money.... then there's the fact that when it comes ot my original pieces, I don't wear them very often as I'm wary of ruining something which is, effectively, irreplaceable.

I've owned a few leather jackets of varying age (c.1940s through 1980s) over the years, but the nature of the shifting market is such that surviving vintage pieces wearable by me are extremely rare. As the cost of the few examples that would be continues to rise - in spite of often poor condition - I'd rather just go new andbe sure of what I'm getting, knowing that it will definitely outlive me, and if it does fall apart there's a manufacturer I can go back to and complain, rather than just accepting that's the risk you take when buying a seventy year old jacket. This is not to say that I'd turn down the right, wearable, jacket if it came in at the right price, of course.

I suppose another argument in favour of repro might be that by buying from the likes of Aero, or Lewis, or whoever, it's one, small way I can do my bit to ensure that the styles and cuts we all love will stay around rather than becoming lost skills. I think for most of us, though, it's about size, availability and price.
 

bn1966

My Mail is Forwarded Here
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3,108
Location
UK
Like many on here have stated, size is a major problem. I have a 46" chest and find it difficult to pick up vintage pieces that fit. As far as old service leather jackets go, G1's are probably the only ones I can find and afford in anything approaching an acceptable fit. I did procure an old Brookes Cafe Racer that fitted once & foolishly sold it when the local mall started banging Cafe Racers out to every-man and his dog.

I've turned to ELC for 1940's leather military reproductions. This way I get the look I want and the quality (at a price). I've pursued my original service issue 'vintage' passion through nylon / nomex rather than leather from the 1950's on-wards...because I can find affordable items in these textiles that can be worn.
 

Benny Holiday

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3,795
Location
Sydney Australia
I have about 25 vintage suits and sports coats/loafer jackets from the 30s and 40s, but for some odd reason I prefer my leather jackets to be new repros of vintage styles. I guess it's just to do with breaking the jacket in and having it be fitted to me by wear.
 

EmergencyIan

Practically Family
Messages
918
Location
New York, NY
For me, I have more vintage jackets (not leather...have one new and it's a GW) since I'm a 38 Regular. I have some newer reproductions, as well. In my opinion, you can't beat vintage (not even the best reproductions) when it's in really good condition.

- Ian
 

Smithy

I'll Lock Up
Messages
5,139
Location
Norway
There does seem to be less postings about vintage jackets than when I joined back in 2006. Threads about things like original Irvins were humming back then and there were a lot of members with some serious smarts about vintage jackets, many of whom seem to have sadly disappeared. The Outerwear section has definitely change since I've been here. But then that's the nature of discussion boards, although it would be nice to see some of the older guard like Alan Eardley, H Johnson, Andrew (Windsock) , Hawkeye, BT , etc back onboard with their vintage knowledge.
 
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trapp

Practically Family
Messages
546
Location
bay area, ca
Good discussion. Don't have much to add, can only concur that the landscape of Outerwear has definately changed. When I first started looking in several years ago (long before I actually registered and started participating) it was like an alternate reality - a real wonderland of vintage knowledge and nostalgia. Now the board is absolutely dominated by the world of reproduction and, as Smithy points outs, there has been a bit of a brain drain as many of the stalwart vintage guys receded into the background. Not that our appreciation for true vintage on the one hand and for reproductions on the other are apples and oranges. But on any given day, all the newest threads and updated posts deal with some aspect of the repro world. Outerwear (the only part of FL I visit w/ the exception of classifieds) has evolved into a very practical forum. It's like a giant virtual fitting room for repro jackets. I'm still interested, which is why I'm here. But it is different.
 

Melvin

New in Town
Messages
19
Location
NYC
Vintage feels more like a hobby, whereas buying new things feels more like consumerism.

Part of the fun of looking for vintage is the hunt: the belief you can find something exceptional where nobody's looking. I have things I've bought new and things I've thrifted. Both have yielded favorites but nothing compares to the feeling of finding something you've wanted at an absurdly low price. It's a thrill: a reward for diligence, research and knowing what you're doing.

You also learn more thrifting than you do consuming.
 

Edward

Bartender
Messages
25,074
Location
London, UK
Though if it's all about the hunt - the getting, rather than the having - to what extent is that really all that different from "consumerism"? It's an intersting debate. Reminds me of all sorts of hobbyist circles I've moved in where folks occasionally bemoan the web because it's made it "too easy", "not like it was in our day", and such.

I'd love to see more posts abouyt original jackets, though. Knowledge gained is never wasted.
 
Messages
11,147
Location
SoCal
I enjoy both the hunt for a used beauty and the purchase of a jacket that I know will fit. They are different for me. I bought a GW for the "sure thing" part of it, and now that I have my "grail" jacket I still can't stop searching eBay for used ones.
 

tmitchell59

I'll Lock Up
Messages
7,720
Location
Illinois
I joined here a year ago after getting into vintage leather again. I cleaned my closet. I did not find that much on vintage, but got an education on all the "new" brands. I now have several new to go along with a lot of vintage. I have found some very good/interesting vintage information here and links to different blogs (dinnermans) which is a wealth of information.

I'd love to see more posts abouyt original jackets, though. Knowledge gained is never wasted.

I have more time now that I'm retired so plan to do some post of my vintage stuff and hopefully get some discussion and learn something new. My main interest is post-war through early 60s. Great jackets that are still very wearable and often affordable. The pre-war leathers can be pretty delicate to wear and not so affordable.

T
 

bn1966

My Mail is Forwarded Here
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3,108
Location
UK
Well I found another early Brooks Cafe Racer this week in what appears to be my size & pulled the trigger on it. Fingers crossed its a fit like the last one. I did have a quick look at the Lewis Leathers site for similar but couldn't justify the $$$. If I can find suitable originals they are my preference. On the flip side my ELC D1 has seen me good service this week.
 

Aether

One of the Regulars
Messages
293
Location
Surrey, UK
New jackets for me.

I like to start with a pristine stiff and shiny jacket and 'make it mine' over years of hard use. If it's already broken in, it'll never really feel like it's mine. Kind of like jeans, it's always gotta be raw denim. No stonewash for me!
 
Messages
10,524
Location
DnD Ranch, Cherokee County, GA
My jackets are like my hats = a mixture of newly made, slightly used & vintage. I'm an off the rack size it seems.
I'd have more vintage if I could find them in the right size. Think I'm covered with newly made ones.
 

tmitchell59

I'll Lock Up
Messages
7,720
Location
Illinois
I'm a 44 and do have to pass on a lot of vintage jackets, but I do find plenty in my size and of late found them more like a 46. I just bought a goatskin Californian that is probably more a 46. If I was a 40 I'd be broke, lots in that size.
 

Seb Lucas

I'll Lock Up
Messages
7,562
Location
Australia
I find the term "vintage" a bit pretentious. I enjoy my used or second hand jackets as much as my new ones. In fact, some of my used jackets fit better than jackets I have had made for me. It's the pattern more than the specs. I really dislike the look of a shiny new leather jacket so I'm generally happier wearing something with some age.
 

jonbuilder

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3,563
Location
Grass Valley CA Foothills
Seb Lucas I think you pick up on what I was suggesting well. I find three classifications of interesting leather jackets, vintage IMO pre 1970s, Pre owned modern productions based on vintage patterns to various degrees of authenticity, and new made to order modern productions based on vintage patterns to various degrees of authenticity. I am judging by the posts I been reading on FL that most the new jackets are not off the rack but made to order. I realize there is a bigger leather jacket world out there, but the previous mentioned jackets are the ones I am interesting in discussing.
 

bn1966

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3,108
Location
UK
Early (I'm told) Brooks Cafe Racer has just arrived and I love it's original vibe. Seller was spot on with measurements and I'm going to enjoy this one. Sleeves will need shortening (slightly) which a local leather seamstress will easily remedy. No 'breaking in' required.
 

Edward

Bartender
Messages
25,074
Location
London, UK
I have more time now that I'm retired so plan to do some post of my vintage stuff and hopefully get some discussion and learn something new. My main interest is post-war through early 60s. Great jackets that are still very wearable and often affordable. The pre-war leathers can be pretty delicate to wear and not so affordable.

T

Cool. Yes, the postwar stuff hasn't gone into the silly money territory yet, though some of it has certainly gone up. Seems that Sixties Lewises are now two to two and a half tiems the price, on average, they were when I was regularly looking into them about twelve years ago.
 

Benny Holiday

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3,795
Location
Sydney Australia
Early (I'm told) Brooks Cafe Racer has just arrived and I love it's original vibe. Seller was spot on with measurements and I'm going to enjoy this one. Sleeves will need shortening (slightly) which a local leather seamstress will easily remedy. No 'breaking in' required.

Great news! Congrats! I enjoy hearing the good news stories.
 

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