New Leather Jacket Advise

[johnnycanuck]

New Jacket advise

I am looking at getting a new leather jacket and am looking for suggestions. I have a brown goat Raiders Wested and a Black cow reefer/u-boat/doctor who jacket. My favorite jacket growing up was a lambskin bomber with snap cuffs and leather stretchy waist, because of this I am looking at an actual bomber A-2 form US Wing but am open to suggestions. Any help would be nice. I just want to keep the cost below $400 Canadian shipped.
Johnny

 

[bfrench]

New Jacket advise

I am looking at getting a new leather jacket and am looking for suggestions. I have a brown goat Raiders Wested and a Black cow reefer/u-boat/doctor who jacket. My favorite jacket growing up was a lambskin bomber with snap cuffs and leather stretchy waist, because of this I am looking at an actual bomber A-2 form US Wing but am open to suggestions. Any help would be nice. I just want to keep the cost below $400 Canadian shipped.
Johnny

Hello, Johnny from another Canuck,

A better choice would be to visit US Authentic website

http://www.usauthentic.com/

They have an A-2 that starts at $294.00 and for $100.00 you can customize it to your liking.

It's an entry level A-2 which will never be mistaken for the mall type jackets found at places like US Wings.

Customs charges are GST + PST - which is about $60.00 - so if you're anywhere near 100 miles of the border between Niagara Falls and Montreal it might even be worth a weekend away to visit Shaul (US A owner) and see for yourself - you save shipping and probably customs charges - I believe a 48 hour trip allow $400.00 duty free now.

Cheers

 

[johnnycanuck]

Thanks for the info bfrench.

Unfortunately a run across the border would cost a lot in gas so I don't think it would be a reality.

I have a slight issue with some wools. How are the cuffs? fairly refined?

Do you have any pictures you could post so I have an idea what it looks like on someone other then the invisible man?

Thank you for the information

Johnny

More suggestions are still welcome.

 

[Interbak]

Hey Johnny,

I've got a couple of jackets from US Authentic, and like others have said they're not detail for detail accurate, but really nice jackets. The horsehide A-2 is heavier than most A-2's, both real and repro, but not so much as to be uncomfortable. Personally I like a heavier leather anyway. I have the seal brown horse, which I think is a little too gray, not a nice warm brown. The vintage horse looks like a great color, but that is considered custom and will cost the extra $100.00. They also have russet, and several colors of goat. Shaul will send you leather samples upon request. The sizes run pretty true, I'm a 44R, and a typical thick around the middle Canadian after winter hibernation, and both of my 44 US A's fit perfect. If you're going the custom route with them he likes to send you an off the rack one for sizing, since custom orders are not returnable. This is fine except he likes to ship UPS which nails us Canadians with a $45.00 customs brokerage fee, on top of duty and tax. The up side is you can have your new jacket in as little as 2 days from order. I had Shaul send the last one by normal mail which only charges $5.00 brokerage, but it took 3 weeks to get here due to the Christmas rush. Back to your original question about US Wings, I've tried on their A-2's and they are much lighter weight, i definitely like the feel of the US A better. US Wings states they won't except returns from outside the US even if it's only a size issue, but they may make an exception since we're not overseas. I have 2 jackets from them as well, one is a Schott I picked up at their store, the other was via mail, neither are A-2's, but I'm happy with both. Hope this helps, if you have any more questions PM me,

Later, Brian

 

[bfrench]

Thanks for the info bfrench.

Unfortunately a run across the border would cost a lot in gas so I don't think it would be a reality.

I have a slight issue with some wools. How are the cuffs? fairly refined?

Do you have any pictures you could post so I have an idea what it looks like on someone other then the invisible man?

Thank you for the information

Johnny

More suggestions are still welcome.

Hi, Johnny,

Do a a search for US Authentic and also fedoralover.

Here's one link -
http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?t=15816&highlight=fedoralover

 

[johnnycanuck]

Now that everything is back on-line I am getting great information on US Authentic. Only thing that I am holding off on is the wool cuffs. Still wondering if I will have a problem. For me it depends on the wool - a kilt I am fine with, a HBC point blanket I have issues. Know what I mean?

Then I would have to decide on a hide. Leaning towards the Horse but what one?

Johnny

 

[johnnycanuck]

E-mailed Shaul yesterday about sizing. I am 200 lb, 6'-0" tall, 42.5" chest, 42" belly (winter insulation), and I take a 44R sports jacket and he recommended a 46R....... why doesn't the seem right to me. Anyone have any opinions/recommendations?

Johnny

 

[Doctor Strange]

If you wear a 44R sports jacket, that 46R A-2 sounds like it might be too big. US A's jackets are cut pretty trimly/accurately in the waist/chest/shoulders and arms, but they run long.

In am 215 lbs, but only 5'8", and I have a 44R US A horsehide A-2. It fits my shoulders correctly, is almost too tight at the waist/belly (it fit better when I first got it and weighed ten pounds less - I cannot use the pockets now!), and is too long in the sleeves and body length. And I'm talking a body length that's a good inch and half longer than my allegedly bigger "modern sized" 46R FS/G&B jackets. (The sleeve length is just about the same for the US A 44R and the FS/G&B 46R.)

If you are looking for traditional (vs. oversized) fit, you might be better off in a 44R. Your added height would make the body length and sleeves just about right. I am also a 42 waist... but I am busting out of it, with more like a 46-inch belly. If you are a comfortable 42 waist, without substantial belt overhang, the 44R should fit okay. (With "okay" definitely meaning closer to tight than to loose.)

Regarding the wool knits, I have no wool allergy to consider... but I really prefer the knits on my US A A-2 to my G&B M-422A. They are definitely softer, a little thicker, have the right degree of relaxed springiness, and have held up very well - there's hardly any pilling, and no thin areas or holes, after six years.

And - I've said this here before - my US A jacket has a rough-hewn, handmade feel that my G&B jackets don't. Don't get me wrong: they are "perfect" factory specimens, very well-made. But the US A feels more like an old-school product... it's just got more soul, somehow.

(I feel your pain having to make this decision long-distance. I was SURE that I'd be a 46R - that's what all my other jackets are - but since I was able to visit Shaul in person and try them on, it was immediately clear that I was swimming in US A's size 46!)

Hope this helps...

 

[johnnycanuck]

Thanks for the information.

Johnny

 

[bfrench]

Thanks for the information.

Johnny

Hi, Johnny,

A solution to the cuffs and waistband would be to order a set from Gibson and Barnes and have US A install them on their jacket.

As to the sizing - a jacket should be approximately 4" wider than your chest measurement halved.

That is if you have a 44" chest - the jacket measured from armpit to armpit should be 44/2 +4 = 26" armpit to armpit.

To test this out - take any well fitting jacket you have in your possession and measure armpit to armpit front and back with the jacket zipped closed and laid flat - you'll find it will approximate this measurement.

Then with that info at hand it should be fairly easy to get a proper fit from US A - you may still have to return it to get the proper body length and arm length.

As to arm length - you'll want a little tunneling - that is the leather sleeve coming down over the wrist cuff as you stand relaxed with the arms by your sides - if you don't - the sleeves will creep above your wrists whenever you reach for a steering wheel or any other forward movement of your arms.

A good basic measurement for that is to bend your forearm 90º so the upper arm is straight, forearm horizontal - then measure from the center of your neck at the knobby bone back there, down over the shoulder, then follow along the back of the upper arm around the elbow and down along to the knobby bone on the outer side of your wrist - if you look at this wrist bone, it measures about 1/2" - the shortest you would want would be to the top of the bone and the longest would be to the bottom of the bone.

As for the back length - from the knobby bone - measure down to about 1" below the bottom of your belt - then add the 3" for the waist band.

The front measurement will run about the same - just remember to measure to the bottom of the belt line from the hollow below in the breast bone just below your throat.

At your height - I'd be expecting around 24" to 25" - if it's too long the jacket bunches up when sitting while driving and if too short - well there's always the bare belly Shania Twain look.

These measurements should give a close approximation of how a jacket will fit with today's trouser designs - remember that today's trousers are well below the waist height of the 1940's era when these jackets were originally designed.

With these measurements in hand - and hopefully done by someone else and not yourself - Mr. Dover should be able to make a perfect fitting jacket for you.

Once you have these they can be applied to any repro manufacturer with very good chances of ale=ways having a well fitting jacket.

Keep us posted - and of course, we'll want pictures once it is finished.

 

[fraazierjo]

New leather jacket

My advice about your new jacket - just enjoy it. You don't even have to wear it to do that! Anybody agree with me on that? Send some pics so we can too.

 

[johnnycanuck]

Sorry

Well it doesn't look like I will be buying an A-2 any time soon. Mentioned it to my wife this weekend, and she was fine until she saw a picture. I can't quote her exactly but the edited version is "You are not buying that jacket! You will look like an 80's reject... NO" I protested it was from the 30's not the 80's but she would not move on the subject. But she did say I can buy another Wested if I wanted to. Oh well. What can you do. I really can't complain, from my hats, to spectator shoes, she has never complained, in fact she usually encourages me.

Thanks for all you help guys. I guess I will have to find another jacket that is not so 1980. Any suggestions?

Johnny

 

[Edward]

Interesting reaction. What pictures did you show her? If she hasn't seen the jacket on someon,e it's possible she could easily mistake it for the ghastly baggy creations that were around in the 80s. I can understand an aversion to those - they make everyone look like the Michelin Man! lol

 

[Jacob Dubow]

What..........is your wife Reichsmarshall Commandant of all male fashion.

Sorry, but I think you should get a bit of control over the selection of your own, personal clothing. But that is just my opinion.


J.A. Dubow

 

[johnnycanuck]

Just this last spring I casually mentioned getting another VS hat and all she said was "well, why don't you". I have over thirty hats covering the spare bedroom wall and she was fine with 31. Last year I bought two Reefer jackets just to get one closest to the Eccleston "doctor who" jacket. She actually got involved and gave me feedback. So when the odd item comes up that she really does not want me to buy, I really can't complain.

Anyway, any other jacket advise?

Johnny

 

[feltfan]

Well it doesn't look like I will be buying an A-2 any time soon. Mentioned it to my wife this weekend, and she was fine until she saw a picture. I can't quote her exactly but the edited version is "You are not buying that jacket! You will look like an 80's reject... NO" I protested it was from the 30's not the 80's but she would not move on the subject. But she did say I can buy another Wested if I wanted to. Oh well. What can you do. I really can't complain, from my hats, to spectator shoes, she has never complained, in fact she usually encourages me.

Thanks for all you help guys. I guess I will have to find another jacket that is not so 1980. Any suggestions?

Johnny

Shhhh... Don't tell anyone here, but I agree with your wife.
The problem is, cheap A-2 copies became ubiquitous in the 80s.
The malls were full of them. Just as the brown fedora became
tied to Indiana Jones, the A-2 became a mall fashion of the 80s.
For the most part, I can't stand looking at them, even though I
am a WWII buff.

The solution, at least for me, is the outstanding example.
The first time I saw an A-2 with the slightest appeal for me,
it was a Goodwear. Have your wife start looking here:
http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?t=25447&page=12
Go on to the next page, too.

Personally, I am not convinced I'll ever be happy with an A-2.
But I do want one of John's A-1s and have a Monarch civilian
jacket on order from him already.

The downside of your wife's good taste will, of course, be the price.

 

[kampkatz]

If you find the G-1 attractive show it to your wife. It might get a better review from her.

 

[Bassman]

Can I interest you in an...

Avirex G-2 and B-3, early '80s, size 42?
2 for 1 sale!!!
$300 + shipping for the both.
http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?t=28208&highlight=Avirex

 

[rick canavar]

Well it doesn't look like I will be buying an A-2 any time soon. Mentioned it to my wife this weekend, and she was fine until she saw a picture. I can't quote her exactly but the edited version is "You are not buying that jacket! You will look like an 80's reject... NO" I protested it was from the 30's not the 80's but she would not move on the subject. But she did say I can buy another Wested if I wanted to. Oh well. What can you do. I really can't complain, from my hats, to spectator shoes, she has never complained, in fact she usually encourages me.

Thanks for all you help guys. I guess I will have to find another jacket that is not so 1980. Any suggestions?

Johnny

An A-1 might be a good alternative. U.S. Authentic makes one. The website shows the jacket with a short, buttonless knit collar, but you can get the higher, two-button collar if you want.

 

[rick canavar]

Shhhh... Don't tell anyone here, but I agree with your wife.
The problem is, cheap A-2 copies became ubiquitous in the 80s.
The malls were full of them. Just as the brown fedora became
tied to Indiana Jones, the A-2 became a mall fashion of the 80s.
For the most part, I can't stand looking at them, even though I
am a WWII buff.

The solution, at least for me, is the outstanding example.
The first time I saw an A-2 with the slightest appeal for me,
it was a Goodwear. Have your wife start looking here:
http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?t=25447&page=12
Go on to the next page, too.

Personally, I am not convinced I'll ever be happy with an A-2.
But I do want one of John's A-1s and have a Monarch civilian
jacket on order from him already.

The downside of your wife's good taste will, of course, be the price.

You're getting one of the Goodwear Monarchs? Very nice! I hope you're going to post pictures.