New Jacket Simmons Bilt Oakland Review

[ton312]

The alignment doesn't bother me and I agree the angle of the photo seems to exacerbate the *issue*. But only @AllanP knows for sure. My Gray Vanson has it, Vanson Gambler too, my SB Detroit had it. Aero j106 has it. SB Brigand did not. Doesn't bother me in the least. When the jacket breaks and the hem takes some natural folds and shape I suspect it will disappear.
Time to wear and enjoy.

 

[dudewuttheheck]

@ton312 I didn't really think of it that way. I will say, the OP's jacket looks worse for some reason and it very well could be the angle of the photo. Also, the jacket doesn't seem to fit him correctly at the waist (not sure if it's the maker's fault or not, but I'm leaning toward not) which is exacerbating the issue. Your jackets posted all seem to fit just right at the bottom, so any improper alignment doesn't look like an issue.

I remember you posting some of these jackets before and I never noticed the alignment the way I noticed the OP's jacket here.

 

[Monitor]

Just went thru all of the photos I had of my cross zips and yeah, they all have the exact same "misalignment". It's a cross zip thing.

 

[dudewuttheheck]

I just checked through a few examples online... There are definitely some brands that can line it up perfectly if desired.

Freewheelers seems to do it well, if not always perfect.

Unsurprisingly, the legends of perfect build quality, The Flat Head have it so perfectly aligned that all three stitch lines line up perfectly! (see below and zoom in on the first picture to see the perfection)
https://www.snakeoilprovisions.com/...-flat-head-horsehide-asymmetrical-moto-jacket

I'd like to see the OP's jacket from a different angle. Clearly, not all asymmetrical jackets are misaligned and this one does seem worse than most, but maybe it's the angle of the photo.

 

[AllanP]

I honestly don't know at this point. As for the picture I chose it to highlight the problem actually so everyone can see it.

I only noticed it when I "felt it" while I was zipping the jacket, when I was looking at myself in the mirror I didn't notice at all.

There's not much I can do regarding the bottom fit. This isn't full custom, I have to go with whatever their standard size that fits me best. I can't really size down because of my shoulders, and cant really size up either because chest would be too large

 

[dudewuttheheck]

I honestly don't know at this point. As for the picture I chose it to highlight the problem actually so everyone can see it.

I only noticed it when I "felt it" while I was zipping the jacket, when I was looking at myself in the mirror I didn't notice at all.

There's not much I can do regarding the bottom fit. This isn't full custom, I have to go with whatever their standard size that fits me best. I can't really size down because of my shoulders, and cant really size up either because chest would be too large

I thought that full custom was an option for SB. When zipped up, it really doesn't look like it fits you well. It's very loose in some areas, especially the waist.

 

[Monitor]

I just checked through a few examples online... There are definitely some brands that can line it up perfectly if desired.

Freewheelers seems to do it well, if not always perfect.

Unsurprisingly, the legends of perfect build quality, The Flat Head have it so perfectly aligned that all three stitch lines line up perfectly! (see below and zoom in on the first picture to see the perfection)
https://www.snakeoilprovisions.com/...-flat-head-horsehide-asymmetrical-moto-jacket

I'd like to see the OP's jacket from a different angle. Clearly, not all asymmetrical jackets are misaligned and this one does seem worse than most, but maybe it's the angle of the photo.

Yeah, but compared to this SB, The Flat Head jacket appears paper thin. I know it's not but SB just looks a lot heavier so it can't be as easy to be as precise.

 

[dudewuttheheck]

Yeah, but compared to this SB, The Flat Head jacket appears paper thin.

It isn't, though. The Flat Head actually specifically get a thicker Shinki hide than any other maker who uses their hide. It may look thinner, but it's thicker than either of my Shinki jackets from Himel and RMC.

The Flat Head was the first brand to develop a major relationship with Shinki and are the reason that RMC uses them and hence, why other western brands use them. They get first pick. It's been demonstrated several times that Flat Head use thicker Shinki leather.

 

[Harris HTM]

Yeah, but compared to this SB, The Flat Head jacket appears paper thin. I know it's not but SB just looks a lot heavier so it can't be as easy to be as precise.

and a tiny bit more expensive I must add.

 

[dudewuttheheck]

Yeah, but compared to this SB, The Flat Head jacket appears paper thin. I know it's not but SB just looks a lot heavier so it can't be as easy to be as precise.

Also, go to SB's website and the product page for the FH jacket. FH listed at 1.3mm and SB says their Shinki is 1.2.

 

[dudewuttheheck]

and a tiny bit more expensive I must add.

Because it's made better... and the leather is thicker. Please pay attention to the actual details given on both websites.

 

[Harris HTM]

Because it's made better... and the leather is thicker. Please pay attention to the actual details given on both websites.

i know! I don't have any doubt about detailing, my comment was rather cynical!
Though I have to admit that my schott perfecto's are also aligned, not as precise as the example above but better than the SB.

 

[AllanP]

I thought that full custom was an option for SB. When zipped up, it really doesn't look like it fits you well. It's very loose in some areas, especially the waist.

yeah full custom cost even more, which would be out of my current budget.

If I were to spend more I would just save up for a lower end Himel who lives 15 minutes walk away from me.

 

[dudewuttheheck]

i know! I don't have any doubt about detailing, my comment was rather cynical!
Though I have to admit that my schott perfecto's are also aligned, not as precise as the example above but better than the SB.

Sorry, it's not easy to tell tone over the internet.
Plus, I was more annoyed at the fact that actual weights were being ignored.
Yeah, as much as many people discount Schott here (I am guilty of this myself) they actually do seem to be consistently good in their construction in fairness.

@AllanP - Honestly, full custom is the way to go, no matter who the maker is.

I am a huge Himel fan and would obviously urge you to go with him. I could not be happier with my Himel jacket. It is made beautifully and fits better than any jacket I have ever owned (it was custom-sized)

With that said, a custom SB that fits perfectly is better than an off the rack Himel or any other jacket that doesn't fit you perfectly. I would say that the jacket just does not seem to fit properly. Whatever brand you go with, I would suggest that you make sure to go with a custom fit, even if you have to wait. Trust me, it's worth it.

 

[ProteinNerd]

Not sure why there is so much criticism, its just screams 70's cool and that back, amazing!!

Awesome, awesome details, lets not all miss the forest for the trees, this IS a really nice jacket. As we all know, this is the worst it will ever look. It will mould (rather quickly seeing as its a thinner leather) and fit him better every day, month, year.

I'm going through a nightmare with customs myself atm so fully understand you not wanting to flippantly send it back over what may very well be a non-issue.

It was really interesting to see @ton312 examples, perhaps the misalignment isn't the end of the world?

 

[AllanP]

Good advice, I will keep that in my for my next jacket down the line. I will definitely go for custom at some point.

I think I spent way too much effort and time on this, and to be honest, I was and am very happy with the result. I think I had an idea of how the jacket would look like and how it would fit, and it exceeded what I pictured, I guess it's all that matters right.

I've never been a fashion oriented person, I hate shopping for clothes so I just random grab stuff off the rack and wear it lol. Buying clothing like this requires so much time for research, measuring yourself, measuring jackets, samples, email email and more email. I think I'm going to give my brain a rest for now and actually enjoy wearing the jacket.

I think down the road, I will started seeing things the way you guys see it, the stitch counts, the stitch lines, the fitting, zippers, hardware, shoulders. But now a lot of things just doesn't catch my eyes, nor does it bother me, so I guess ignorance is bliss for now.

Again thanks to everyone for their input, this is what I love about the forum, people are very helpful and straight forward.

 

[Harris HTM]

Good advice, I will keep that in my for my next jacket down the line. I will definitely go for custom at some point.

I think I spent way too much effort and time on this, and to be honest, I was and am very happy with the result. I think I had an idea of how the jacket would look like and how it would fit, and it exceeded what I pictured, I guess it's all that matters right.

I've never been a fashion oriented person, I hate shopping for clothes so I just random grab stuff off the rack and wear it lol. Buying clothing like this requires so much time for research, measuring yourself, measuring jackets, samples, email email and more email. I think I'm going to give my brain a rest for now and actually enjoy wearing the jacket.

I think down the road, I will started seeing things the way you guys see it, the stitch counts, the stitch lines, the fitting, zippers, hardware, shoulders. But now a lot of things just doesn't catch my eyes, nor does it bother me, so I guess ignorance is bliss for now.

Again thanks to everyone for their input, this is what I love about the forum, people are very helpful and straight forward.

So how is your next leather jacket going to look like?

 

[Asaha]

So I thought I would start a new thread by itself for this new (and first) purchase. So this is a SB Oakland in Chocolate Shinki, size 40, Olive Stitching, Standard Tartan Lining.

I caught the leather jacket bug late last year when I discovered this forum researching B3 jackets. I have read a ton of old threads in the past couple of months and finally decided to pull the trigger when I pm'd Ton, who gave me a lot of advice.

I was originally going to order Aero Bootlegger or SB Detroit in Horween steer or horsehide, but I eventually changed my mind. First because I bought a wallet made out of Horween CXL and I thought it was really stiff and heavy and I just wasn't sure if I was ready for something that heavy. The samples I received of the Horween steer also confirmed how thick it was. The SB Oakland caught my eye because I was really drawn towards the D pocket, so I made a last second change when I ordered.

Dealing with SB was very smooth, Debs was really patient and answered all of my 20 something emails back and forth. The jacket itself was finished in less than 3 weeks I believe, and shipped the day the payment went through, and I received it here in Toronto Canada after a long weekend. The customer service was superb and I really have nothing to complain about. Debs will answer your email after a day or sometimes two depending how busy they are, which to some people would considered a bit slow, but I was not in any kind of rush.

As for sizing and specs, I was told to measure myself, and then measure a favorite jacket of mine and send them the specs. I never knew how difficult it was to measure shoulder width tbh, I ended up not sending them any shoulder specs because depending on who's measuring and how you position your jacket it comes out different every time. So I sent them the pit to pit of my jacket, and my chest size, and my desired sleeves and back length and they chose size 40 for me. I was pretty iffy about sizing, because I have never bought a piece of clothing without trying it on in store.

Regarding the actual jacket, as you saw from the pictures from the other thread, I was very impressed. The construction is spot on, and they nailed my back and sleeve lengths perfectly. The leather is the perfect mid weight leather I desire and the stiffness I desire. I think the overall weight is 3kg (labeled on the package) and the jacket does not stand on its own when new like some of the CXL jackets I've seen on the forums. The shinki has a shiny coat, but you can definitely see the grain clearly. It is less waxy and more grainy than the RMC Buco I handled once in store while I was in Japan. I am obviously no expert on leather, but I think it's a safe leather for first time buyers in terms of weight and stiffness.

So enough babbling and here are some pictures I took. I didn't manage to take any good pics outside because it was hot out this weekend and I was sweating just wearing it in the sun. I personally think the fit feels spot on. I know some people like it looser so they can wear a sweater underneath, but I prefer just a t shirt or a thinner shirt.

The only flaw I saw was that the bottom of the jacket is not flush when it is zipped, I think this might bother some people, but I don't wear jackets zipped up so I don't really mind it, but you can definitely feel it when you zip the jacket and you can see it clearly in the picture.

Edit*, I'm around 6'1 and 180 pounds, the back length and Sleeves are both 25 inches (I have short arms for my height)

Great jacket @AllanP. Fit is perfect. I bet you can't wait for winter to come.

 

[ton312]

I think down the road, I will started seeing things the way you guys see it, the stitch counts, the stitch lines, the fitting, zippers, hardware, shoulders. But now a lot of things just doesn't catch my eyes, nor does it bother me, so I guess ignorance is bliss for now.

My good man that is not ignorance. You see a beautiful jacket that fits very well. There really isn't any more to it than that!

 

[dudewuttheheck]

@AllanP if you're happy with it, then keep it! If you like the finish, fit, etc then that's what matters most.
We're all just bad influences that make you spend more money at the end of the day