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New forum member brand (Rugged West)

Tom71

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,734
Location
Europe
Okay folks, take 1 of trying to get a proper leather jacket for my wife.
Type 1 from RW just dropped in. I think RW and Leilah did a great job with! Wife is super happy about it overall.
Adding some fit pics.
Please share your thoughts on the fit!

Current plan is to send back this stock jacket and upgrade to custom.
What I think about the fit:
- Chest and upper back seem pretty spot on, both in terms of looks and mobility. Sleeve length and shoulder width seem very good as well.
- Body length is too short, at least for my taste, especially the front. Should be 1-2" longer. She definitely has some Anterior Pelvic Tilt going to as well. I think some front drop would help with that. Type 1 with 0.5" front drop? Abomination?
- Needs more taper in the waist, too much loose material in the lower back at the moment. Right now it's ~17.75. I'd reduce that to ~16.5" or something like that and then flare it back out at the bottom hem (especially if we got for longer body) to ~17.25-17.5".

View attachment 630697
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Agreed on the previous comments. Looks very good as it is and will look absolutely perfect once broken in.
 

Edward

Bartender
Messages
25,081
Location
London, UK
A type I (and type II) should be short and boxy. As-is it's already longer than the original. Making it even longer will not look good.

Yes

Again, I think it looks good as-is. Altering a boxy design into a V shape will look off imo. If your wife wants a V shaped jacket then a type III would be a better choice.


That's be my read on it too. I'd keep the stock jacket and spend the extra money on some jeans that go up to her natural waist rather than modern, hip-level jeans. I've seen one too many jean-jacket types in both denim and leather elongated to cover the waistband of modern, low-rise jeans and it looks off every time. (I've seen the same thing on belted Perfecto types, which looks even worse!)
 

Johnny Deadlifts

A-List Customer
Messages
452
That's be my read on it too. I'd keep the stock jacket and spend the extra money on some jeans that go up to her natural waist rather than modern, hip-level jeans. I've seen one too many jean-jacket types in both denim and leather elongated to cover the waistband of modern, low-rise jeans and it looks off every time. (I've seen the same thing on belted Perfecto types, which looks even worse!)
I have type one and type three jackets from Brave Star with the same issue; just a bit too long, too much of a "slimming affect" that takes away from the original design.
 

Edward

Bartender
Messages
25,081
Location
London, UK
I have type one and type three jackets from Brave Star with the same issue; just a bit too long, too much of a "slimming affect" that takes away from the original design.


Yeah. I was very excited when Wrangler reintroduced the 124MJ, but then they trumpeted that they'd modernised it... three inches or so longer than the original, and narrower sleeves. I could have lived with them dropping the pleated front, even, maybe, it being a button front instead of the original zip, but ruining the fit... bah. Such a shame, especially when it's not that common to find something decent, and affordable, in a denim jacket that isn't yet *another* Type 3.
 

TartuWolf

One Too Many
Messages
1,219
Location
Tartu, Estonia
Thank you for all the feedback!

I understand that period correctness or adhering to the original is very important here on TFL and I totally go with that vibe.
But let me CAREFULLY give a few counter arguments:
1 . This is already an abomination with a type 1 front (with the pocket on the wrong side, arguably) and a type 3 back. So authenticity has already been heavily impaired.
2 . She does not care that much for authenticity, just wants it to look as good as possible. So if you would ignore the fact that this jacket is trying to be a type 1, would you still suggest to leave it alone (I know the popular PRO stock ANTI custom / modification argument) or make any changes to improve the fit given the choice (which we have)?

Also thank you for the suggestion to alter the denim side of the equation. Currently she's wearing my old stretch denim with a belt because she doesn't have any denim left (all the modern mall crap, including Levi's, just tears and rips so fast). Would really like to get a pair or two of proper denim for her, but haven't found any good option yet.

Cheers!
 

Canuck Panda

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,718
Type I torso is straight down, maybe that's why type 3 has been the more popular choice over the years?

However, with a waist cinch at the back it can have a flattering fit. That would be my choice, Type one with an open patch pocket and a waist cinch at the back with all that tiny pleats down the yoke. I always felt that type 2 could have been skipped. haha.
 

Marc mndt

I'll Lock Up
Messages
7,335
However, with a waist cinch at the back it can have a flattering fit. That would be my choice, Type one with an open patch pocket and a waist cinch at the back with all that tiny pleats down the yoke.
That's a great suggestion. It works really well for the Mister Freedom trucker. The body needs to be short though, otherwise the cinch will be more like a halfbelt lol.

IMG_6136.jpeg
IMG_6315.jpeg
 

KBlake

One Too Many
Messages
1,866
Thank you for all the feedback!

I understand that period correctness or adhering to the original is very important here on TFL and I totally go with that vibe.
But let me CAREFULLY give a few counter arguments:
1 . This is already an abomination with a type 1 front (with the pocket on the wrong side, arguably) and a type 3 back. So authenticity has already been heavily impaired.
2 . She does not care that much for authenticity, just wants it to look as good as possible. So if you would ignore the fact that this jacket is trying to be a type 1, would you still suggest to leave it alone (I know the popular PRO stock ANTI custom / modification argument) or make any changes to improve the fit given the choice (which we have)?

Also thank you for the suggestion to alter the denim side of the equation. Currently she's wearing my old stretch denim with a belt because she doesn't have any denim left (all the modern mall crap, including Levi's, just tears and rips so fast). Would really like to get a pair or two of proper denim for her, but haven't found any good option yet.

Cheers!
My wife has the same build as yours and the naked and famous maxx fit is great for her.
 

Johnny Deadlifts

A-List Customer
Messages
452
Type I torso is straight down, maybe that's why type 3 has been the more popular choice over the years?

However, with a waist cinch at the back it can have a flattering fit. That would be my choice, Type one with an open patch pocket and a waist cinch at the back with all that tiny pleats down the yoke. I always felt that type 2 could have been skipped. haha.
I found that to be the case with this off the rack Levis type one, not a bad fit and design; and its 100% cotton.
 

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Togs

New in Town
Messages
29
@TartuWolf, I’m curious what Leilah’s thoughts are on the fit, eg. what works on the stock jacket and what she suggests changing; and subsequently your wife’s thoughts on these. Outside of a conversation between Leilah and your wife, I feel out of place to comment.
 

barnabus

One Too Many
Messages
1,492
Location
Britain's oldest recorded town
f you would ignore the fact that this jacket is trying to be a type 1, would you still suggest to leave it alone

I think I would, yes. I'm not married to the idea of period correctness and will happily enjoy items that veer away from traditional designs.

And.

I think your wife's jacket looks terrific and fits her really well.
 

TartuWolf

One Too Many
Messages
1,219
Location
Tartu, Estonia
@Togs

Leilah said it looks fantastic ("I wouldn't change a single thing") but also agrees that tapering in the waist (not the bottom hem) could potentially make it even better in terms of fit.

My wife is easily pleased and has no strong opinion one way or the other (keep vs send back for a custom). Looks fine to her, but she doesn't have my standards haha.

The changes / modifications I mentioned are purely my own ideas, but my wife trusts me. And I respect the opinion of my fellow TFL folk, that's why I'm asking :)
 

TartuWolf

One Too Many
Messages
1,219
Location
Tartu, Estonia
I'm very sorry to highjack this thread and my wife the center of attention, but here are a few shots with her waring other denim. My high waist pair, her higher waist pair that is too small, one of her favorite skirts.
1722622165946.png

1722622174160.png

1722622180270.png
 

Tom71

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,734
Location
Europe
I am not a stickler for „period-correct“ at all. The more I look at the jacket, the more I like how it looks. More rugged and more substantial than your standard trucker look, but the leather is just made for this look.

As to alterations: a taper to the waist or an hourglass shape (perhaps artificially created by a cinch at the back, as suggested) wouldn’t ruin the look, but is in no way mandatory, IMO.
More length - would be a total NO to me personally. A trucker mustn’t reach beyond the hip bone, and a women’s jacket gets away with even less.

So yes, I hear you, but I wouldnt touch it. Just my thought, of course.
 
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TartuWolf

One Too Many
Messages
1,219
Location
Tartu, Estonia
Great chance to give RW a try (20% off for a week):
 

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