New Alexander Leathers Jacket ... I call it the "Adventurer" :)

[bretron]

As you should the russet hide with that plaid lining is really sharp. And I like the simplicity of this; you'll get a lot of enjoyment and wear out of for sure

 

[Smithy]

Looks fantastic Plumbline! Really nice design, I reckon AL might get a few requests for that from others

 

[Peter Mackin]

Cant fault it...very sharp & a great fit ;-)

 

[ykurtz]

I like seeing personalized designs, especially those that push towards the streamlined/simplicity end of the spectrum. Once you start down this path, though, it will be very difficult to be happy with an OTR model, since 'everything is permitted' in a made to design scenario. Very nice!

 

[Boyo]

Really Nice! I think thats your best yet..you should be really pleased.. I think you may end up keeping this one

 

[schitzo]

Obviously this has come out rather well, and sitting here trying to think about what I'd do differently has taken me a while..

Firstly, I have to say this one fits a little better than usual haha.

As for this length, clearly it isn't a short short jacket but I'm slightly unclear on what the intention was, in part because I know that how you like yours to fit is not always so orthodox. What I'm wondering is, is it supposed to be regular half belt length (and you've got it a little longer in line with how you like em) or is it supposed to be a bit longer than that i..e Aero Cropduster length? As I read it, JCs ventura is regular HB length and aero's californian was a little longer - am i right?

Back to your creation, if I could have one I'd like it Cropduster length and with a different pocket set up. Since I could have anything I'd go for those you see on an aero Hercules, which to my mind are both stylish and very practical. All of that said, you and I are built differently.. so in fairness probably what you have done is the best for you! The dip at the front definitely does look good. But even so, those pockets, which I know you like and are happy with, are not 100% convincing me in the same way the rest of it is

 

[Plumbline]

It's regular Halfbelt length Schitzo .... this is how I want/like a halfbelt to sit, not Insurrection short, as has been discussed many times (I'm not sure this isn't a style thing rather than a function thing). The halfbelt sits on my natural waist ( actually this is about an inch higher than my normal) and the tail back section is not overly short ... nor is the slope at the front as pronounced as on the Ventura. It needs to be long enough to wear on the bike for short periods.

The double lip pockets are the best I've found for keeping things in and the angle is something I debated long and hard ... the option was a more shallow angle but it just didn't "feel" right. In addition the single lip pocket as on the Ventura and a number of original jackets just didn't feel right it sort of felt flimsey ( this might be a motorcycle jacket carry over ) but double lipped pockets are certainly as period correct as the single lipped ones.

I wanted a similar look to the JC Penny Winter Sports Jacket on P36 of Rins book " Motorcycle Jackets - A Century of Leather Design" minus the throat latch and the dreaded ( my opinion ) hookless zipper .. without it looking too 1930's. I think overall the objectives have been achieved.

While the jackets which drew my attention were the Aero Californian and JC's Ventura ( also a copy of a vintage Californian) as I had actually seen both in the flesh and owned one ( Aero Californian) as much of an inspiration was the Californian ( P63/64 MJ-ACOLD) with it's double lipped pockets and it's bi-swing back mixed in with the Levis jacket on (P68 MJ-ACOLD) with it's bolder collar and strapped cuffs ... and then ad in a little of the brown jacket in the upper section of (P75 MJ-ACOLD) by an unknown maker, and you sort of get a flavour.

Many of you guys know me as an M/C jacket enthusiast tosee my final piece of inspiration you should also look at the Harley Davidson "DeLuxe Leather Jacket" advertisments from 1934 - 1936 in the likes of "The Enthusiast" if you can .... you may spot some similarities between that jacket and the "Adventurer" in fact I almost wanted to call this jacket the "Enthusiast".... as I had used many of the Harley Davidson DLJ (DeLuxe Leather Jacket) design cues.

I wasn't trying to create a "Copy" more trying to build something with the features I liked and felt comfortable with ..... bespoke-ish ..... I love how it turned out and I'm already on the next "Bespoke-ish" project - think Oakland in Vintage Burgundy Warhawk ( which is STUNNING ) minus D-pocket .. I know you're not a fan of this style of jacket Schitzo but as a biker I LOVE it .... with some interesting features from various jackets .. think Simmonds Bilt (P23 MJ-ACOLD) meets Levis Straus (P68 MJ-ACOLD) meets California (P70 top MJ-ACOLD).

I wish I'd got into this Frankenjacket thing much earlier in my addiction .. oops .. hobby

If we all liked the same things Schitzo .. it would be a very boring world to live in.

 

[Seb Lucas]

I can't fault that jacket. Nice long fit. I miss the chest pocket but that's personal preference. Great half-belt. How much does it weigh, Plumb?

 

[Plumbline]

I can't fault that jacket. Nice long fit. I miss the chest pocket but that's personal preference. Great half-belt. How much does it weigh, Plumb?

Comes in at 5 pounds even Seb ..... A nice solid weight but not overly heavy IMHO ..... You certainly know you are wearing it

 

[Davy Crockett]

Fantastic Jacket, and in my opinion perfect fit, looks like one of your best if not the best to me!

D

 

[Highwaymanman]

It's great to see a jacket where all this thought and consideration has gone into every aspect of the design and yet the finished product is understated and the various elements work very much in harmony. Doesn't hurt that you've nailed the fit. This one is a bullseye.

 

[Will015]

My only concern with this jacket would be the way the buckle side of the wrist adjustment strap is attached. The way it's tucked underneath the front panel of leather looks like it's pulling at the seam like a hammer pulling a nail out of a wall. I understand there probably isn't too much tension on the strap at any given time but it just seems like a design flaw in an otherwise pretty flawless looking jacket. That said I'm not sure how it could be attached without either doing that or looking odd.

 

[hpalapdog]

Roller buckles do tend to loosen if you like to snug them up. The solution is simple enough, a couple of tack stitches through the existing strap stitch holes which is invisible.
I borrowed my mum's thimble which helps to push the needle through !

 

[Plumbline]

My only concern with this jacket would be the way the buckle side of the wrist adjustment strap is attached. The way it's tucked underneath the front panel of leather looks like it's pulling at the seam like a hammer pulling a nail out of a wall. I understand there probably isn't too much tension on the strap at any given time but it just seems like a design flaw in an otherwise pretty flawless looking jacket. That said I'm not sure how it could be attached without either doing that or looking odd.

It's an identical construction to both the side straps on my Californian ... which is 12 years old and has done over a million air miles without any ill effects ..... there's no real stress on it, probabl;y just the way I've taken the picture. Either way it's difficult to see how the strap could be attached differently without it looking a bit unatural( I did toy with a full round strap as opposed to a half strap but again it felt like overkill and was a little cumbersome). It could also be the way I've folded the pinch from tightening the strap .... great comment and one I'll investigate further. I guesse I could have requested the side seam to be reversed like JC's so that the strap went "with" the seam rather than "against" it ..... good catch

Great tip on the fixing HPA ... not sure I'll need it as the buckles feel rock solid right now .. but a useful one to have up my sleeve ( excuse the pun) for the future should the need arise.

 

[Worf]

Plumbline... I like your style and your directness. I LOVE!!!!! LOVE I tell you, simple designs... no yokes and wild things to much up the look of the hide. So needless to say I love this jacket. The only thing I'd do differently is put zips on the pockets... pocket puff, which often happens with age and use, is an anathema to me. Other than that... great lookin' jacket. I love the collar arrangement as well.

Worf

 

[Superfluous]

Looks great!!!

 

[tmitchell59]

Very nice, I like the weight, looks very comfortable. A handsome jacket.

Terry

 

[pauleway]

Plumb - Great fit, love the angle of the pockets. I kind of miss the zip chest pocket, but thats a keeper. Also like the sleeve straps, just really looks good!!:eusa_clap

 

[jack miranda]

Plumbline:
I went straight to your pics; ignored all the verbiage. Nice jacket. Very nice jacket. Thanks for the pics.

 

[Benny Holiday]

As you should the russet hide with that plaid lining is really sharp.

+ 1! The design is clean and neat and it's just a great-looking jacket all round. Congratulations!