Need some help identifying this cafe racer

[Gamma68]

Hi everyone.

I'm excited! I just purchased a vintage (?) cafe racer I found at a vintage clothing store. I'd really like to learn more about it (there are no tags) and wanted to ask the experts here:

1. Who is the manufacturer?
2. Any idea what kind of leather it is? Feels like my 1960s goatskin G-1, but I'm no leather expert.
3. What approximate time period does it date from?

Here are some quick photos (sorry for the poor lighting) with some notes:

^ Dark brown in color. The bottom panel on the back seems to ride pretty high (but it's not uncomfortable).

^ The main zip and sleeve zips are by Swift (not familiar with this brand). The chest pocket zips are not branded. Nor is the collar snap button.

^ There are three underarm ventilation holes

^ The front side of the wind flap is finished...

^...while the underside is unfinished

^ The interior has no pockets and is entirely lined in a rayon-like material. The only tag on this jacket is this generic R. Sherman cleaning label.

The salesperson guessed that maybe the lining had been replaced at some point (hence no manufacturer tag). But the presence of the Sherman cleaning label refutes that.

What do you guys think?

 

[Fanch]

@Monitor will be able to answer all of your questions. BTW cool looking CR.

 

[lina]

I think maybe the Sherman tags were put into Fidelity jackets..? In any case, a nice find!

 

[ton312]

That there is a Kehoe jacket. Made in Michigan alongside both Brooks and Buco. Produced in St. Claire? Had a blue one myself

 

[Gamma68]

Yes, looks like your Kehoe. Thanks!

I'd never heard of this brand but a quick web search shows they were made in Warren or St. Clair Shores Michigan. Wish the label were still in it if I ever decide to sell it. But that would be later, because it fits great.

Any idea what type of leather it would be? Others Kekoes I've seen online are labeled steerhide. Mine seems on the thin side for steer--it's wonderfully supple.

 

[ton312]

Yes, looks like your Kehoe. Thanks!

I'd never heard of this brand but a quick web search shows they were made in Warren or St. Clair Shores Michigan. Wish the label were still in it if I ever decide to sell it. But that would be later, because it fits great.

Any idea what type of leather it would be? Others Kekoes I've seen online are labeled steerhide. Seems on the thin side for steer--it's wonderfully supple.

Yep, it's a light steer. I've had a few from Kehoe and just like Brooks and Buco the weights and hide quality vary a bit. This Kehoe pattern is actually one of my favs. Buco up front and Brooks in the back.

 

[Seb Lucas]

Nice jacket. Similar to Brooks. Many makers used thin steer back then, maybe 2.2oz. Any hide can be cut thin.

 

[Gamma68]

Thanks, @ton312 and @Seb Lucas. It's an extraordinarily comfortable jacket. The leather is really super nice. And I don't think I could ask for a better fit. I'll post some fit pics tomorrow.

 

[ton312]

Kehoe, Brooks, Buco and Reed all knew how to make a super nice CR. Those old patterns remain among my all time favorites. Simple design in a very easy to wear hide. What's not to love?!?
I damn near sent this blue jacket to Alan at JL to have it rebuilt in heavy CXL cognac but thought better of it. Part of the charm is the easy to wear light hide. Wouldn't have worked in a 7lb jacket.

 

[technovox]

Yes- as Ton said earlier, it definitely looks like a Kehoe (St. Claire, Michigan) design based on the double snap neck tab, ring pulls, full action back and the zippers on top of the sleeves. The Swift zipper is unusual but not unlikely. There's a lot to like about Kehoe jackets- the fit is accommodating, the style is timeless, and the Steerhide leather takes on a very soft, nicely worn-in patina after years of wear. Enjoy!

 

[SJC]

Yes- as Ton said earlier, it definitely looks like a Kehoe (St. Claire, Michigan) design based on the double snap neck tab, ring pulls, full action back and the zippers on top of the sleeves. The Swift zipper is unusual but not unlikely. There's a lot to like about Kehoe jackets- the fit is accommodating, the style is timeless, and the Steerhide leather takes on a very soft, nicely worn-in patina after years of wear. Enjoy!
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Awesome Find. I can never find anything that nice at thrift stores around me in Pennsylvania . It's all junk made in China trash. so that is why I am always spending $1,000+ on leather jackets.

 

[eugenesque]

Wow cool jacket and congrats on your purchase. Leather looks really vintage and broken in. I'm sure it's very comfortable!

 

[photo2u]

Kehoe, Brooks, Buco and Reed all knew how to make a super nice CR. Those old patterns remain among my all time favorites. Simple design in a very easy to wear hide. What's not to love?!?
I damn near sent this blue jacket to Alan at JL to have it rebuilt in heavy CXL cognac but thought better of it. Part of the charm is the easy to wear light hide. Wouldn't have worked in a 7lb jacket.

Ton, is there a jacket you have not owned? LOL. I currently have all the above mentioned with the exception of the Buco. Most I have acquired under 140.00. For the price, I just do not see anything that can match its value and timeless look.

That jacket is a keeper sir.

 

[eugenesque]

Someone should come up with some form of publication on the anthropology of leather jackets (including their makers) for future easy identification.

 

[Gamma68]

Fit pics:

 

[Monitor]

Perfect. The way it fits you reminds me a lot of the GW California Racer JC is wearing on his page. Looks equally nice, too.

 

[Fanch]

I don't know how that CR could possibly fit any better. Definitely a home run!

 

[Gamma68]

Thanks for all your nice comments. I didn't really need this jacket, but the fit is so comfortable, I had to have it. I'm extremely pleased with this purchase.

It's odd but there's no evidence whatsoever that there ever was an interior tag identifying the maker. No tag remnant or stitch holes where one might have been placed. So glad @ton312 came through with a positive ID.

 

[ton312]

Superb jacket and fit! Gotta love those vintage CR's. They really are hard to beat and come at a price point that's every bit as appealing as the jacket itself. Well done man!

 

[Seb Lucas]

Thanks for all your nice comments. I didn't really need this jacket, but the fit is so comfortable, I had to have it. I'm extremely pleased with this purchase.

It's odd but there's no evidence whatsoever that there ever was an interior tag identifying the maker. No tag remnant or stitch holes where one might have been placed. So glad @ton312 came through with a positive ID.

Tell you what - you may not need it, but it looks so much better than many brand new, over engineered, big money jackets you could blow your cash on. This is the real thing, not a tribute item - the inspiration behind the passion for leather jackets.