Need Aero Premier Highwayman customization advice

[Witchtrip]

Hello,
This is my first post on TFL. I'm anxiously awaiting a fit jacket from Thurston Bros for my first custom Aero Premier Highwayman. I've been scouring the threads absorbing as much info as possible on the available options. I've pretty much got it sorted, but there are a couple of final details I wish to ask the experts here.

- medium vs lightweight wool tartan: I live in NJ and want a jacket I can wear 3 seasons (I ride a shifty Vespa), I'm pretty sure I'm getting medium weight. Any reason not to?

- cotton drill vs sateen: what do you think is the better choice in terms of durability & comfort? I'll be wearing light sweaters and flannel under the jacket in colder weather - t-shirts/long sleeve tees when possible.

- Brass vs antique brass hardware. Is the antique hardware really dull? I've seen examples of really oxidized looking zip pulls which I'm not crazy about. But I also don't want to look brand spanking new for years while it patinas. Thoughts?

- Stitching: I'm getting black FQHH and love the olive drab. The only other choice would be dark brown. Please post pics if you have them - I haven't seen definitive pics of dark brown. I'm going to search deeper for those.

I think that's it for now - hopefully this post will steer me in the right direction. Thanks in advance for any input!

Cheers

 

[jacketjunkie]

Hello and welcome to our community! Nice to have you here.

Regarding your questions;
1)go for medium wool if you want to ride in it three seasons. I have a jacket lined in the thin wool and it's real thin, I can barely wear the jacket in Germanys currently very fresh April spring weather without freezing, have to layer with wool shirts under it and you'll be riding, so it will be even colder with wind and all.

2) won't really matter imho, I doubt you will feel a difference in terms of durability or comfort.

3) the zips are really small and half hidden by the leather foldover anyway, so you don't have to fear the brass being too shiny and eye-catching. I'd go for normal brass and get a real patina on it.

4) i'm no Fan of fancy contrast stitching, I would go for black on black. If you are built like a greek god, overly self-confident and think you can pull it off without a single self-doubt when people look at you, go ahead, but I feel more comfortable in simple designs and contrast stitching is a fashion thing I would not feel comfortable pulling off. But that's your thing, I'm just rambling. It's just it's a fashion thing and I'm not into fashion but into sturdy built to last clothing.

 

[Witchtrip]

Thanks jacketjunkie - excellent advice. This will be my first "real" leather jacket and I'm into timeless utility and prefer to break my own clothes in. I've mostly ruled out olive stitching already, just thinking dark brown (if it's dark enough) would be a nice subtle touch. Very good to know about the brass - I'll grime it up soon enough. \m/

 

[Peacoat]

You are on the right track. Especially by going through Wade and Carrie. They also are good at making recommendations as they have seen it all. Not only will you get a good fit, but you can get advice on what looks good with your jacket.

Not sure about that avatar, though. It looks a bit demented. Sorta like the first Joan Jett avatar that Monitor used.

Welcome to the Lounge. PC

 

[Witchtrip]

Thanks Peacoat - I can see how this becomes addictive. Way too many options for owning only 1 jacket... /

 

[handymike]

My 1950's Sears Hercules Black jacket originally had Olive stitching, but after years it turns dark. I'd go for it. Olive looks great with black, and it's not too over the top cause there isn't a lot of ornamental stitching on the HWYMN.
Cotton drill will last a good long time in the sleeves, but does get a bit grabby on wool shirts and sweaters sometimes. Good luck! Can't wait to see pics of you in your new jacket.

 

[ButteMT61]

I gotta say sateen for sleeves.
Leather isn't warm anyways, so get something that doesn't grab your shirts or sweaters. Just my 2¢
Good luck. Great advice above.

 

[Mark]

I am not a fan of the Premier HWM, particularly the 70's collar. Can't beat the original but that's just my opinion. I would say keep it simple. If you think ahead to say 10 years or more your tastes are likely to become more conservative (It just happens for some reason), particularly as far as clashing thread, linings and hard wear are concerned. Just my thoughts on it. Hope it goes well.

 

[Edward]

Hello,
This is my first post on TFL. I'm anxiously awaiting a fit jacket from Thurston Bros for my first custom Aero Premier Highwayman. I've been scouring the threads absorbing as much info as possible on the available options. I've pretty much got it sorted, but there are a couple of final details I wish to ask the experts here.

Nice choice of model. As you're no doubt aware, it's a sort of a dieselpunk affair, this one: Ken completely redesigned the standard HWM from the ground up, based solely on the notion of 'had this jacket been made in the 30s, how would it have looked?' I think he did a great job.

- medium vs lightweight wool tartan: I live in NJ and want a jacket I can wear 3 seasons (I ride a shifty Vespa), I'm pretty sure I'm getting medium weight. Any reason not to?

Medium.... but don't expect it to be quite as hard-wearing as the cotton drill, nor significantly warmer. In my experience, there's not much perceptible difference between 'em. I've never tried a tweed lining, though I suspect it would be warmer.

- cotton drill vs sateen: what do you think is the better choice in terms of durability & comfort? I'll be wearing light sweaters and flannel under the jacket in colder weather - t-shirts/long sleeve tees when possible.

Cotton drill for me every time. I've never found it grabby the way some folks do (YMMV), but significantly, I find it much less prone to getting 'sweaty' if I get warm while wearing a jacket.

- Brass vs antique brass hardware. Is the antique hardware really dull? I've seen examples of really oxidized looking zip pulls which I'm not crazy about. But I also don't want to look brand spanking new for years while it patinas. Thoughts?

Not a huge amount in it. I've had jackets with both. The Antique brass can look a bit 'fake' to my eye. I've actually grown to prefer the sheen a bit. I'm looking at my four year old standard HWM as I type; it has the standard (shiny) brass hardware. Hasn't dulled as much as the antiqued stuff is designed to appear, but it certainly doesn't stick out. With (relatively) little hardwear on the jacket (as compared to, say, a D pocket or a Perfecto style), it's not that big a deal even when new. I prefer the more subtle aging on the regular brass now.

- Stitching: I'm getting black FQHH and love the olive drab. The only other choice would be dark brown. Please post pics if you have them - I haven't seen definitive pics of dark brown. I'm going to search deeper for those.

I have the olive drab on a seal goat A2, and it looks superb - very subtle, have to look twice to spot it. I reckon it would look equally good on black. I don't much care for mixing brown and black, but again, that's to personal taste.

 

[bebop13]

i also think that olive would be better than brown as black and brown can look a little odd together...

 

[Witchtrip]

Fantastic, logging on to great input this morning - thanks everyone!

Yeah, I'm totally shooting in the dark here, being my first Aero. I chose the premier as I'm pretty lean and will need a slim fit and liked the stylings of the HWM. I very well may switch to a 30s Halfbelt if the HWM is too boxy, however. We shall see. This would be such a cinch to decide in person.

I like black/brown combos generally, but completely agree it's a fine line. I haven't been able to find any pics of that combo, so I'm suspecting it may not be a good choice. I'm hoping the fit jacket has olive so I can see it first hand - that will make the sale if it's really as subtle as it seems.

So now I'm curious if anyone has input on med vs heavy tartan - I'm dead set on wool, as the options are too amazing to pass up (and it is custom, after all)

And I'm pretty sold on the drill. I think it's a little thicker than the sateen, which will all help in warmth.

Thanks a ton for the help - the collective experience on this forum was too good to not solicit!

 

[MRB1248]

Good morning Witchtrip. I live in NJ also, and currently have a Maxwell with the drill lining. I didn't get the wool in the body, but on a day like today, it's just fine. It's a little cold in Feb and Mar, so the wool would probably have been a better option. Which is why I am now looking at getting another with the wool lining and a little less "fitted" so I can wear a sweater under it. Be careful though, this gets addicting and expensive.

 

[Witchtrip]

Hi MRB, yeah these prolonged northern springs (I'm from down south) make for some chilly morning rides. Thanks for the input - it's ridiculous, I'm already starting to rationalize a second full blown winter jacket... Thankfully we just moved (from Brooklyn) and bought a fixer upper, so my funds are restricted for the time being. As you know, it stays cool enough up here even in summer to enjoy a leather jacket in the evenings. I'll definitely post pics to this thread once I take delivery of this masterpiece.

 

[ButteMT61]

Have had the heavy Tartan on four Aero's and I love it. I'd personally not go lighter than that, but again, all personal opinions.
Get what YOU want and just use this info for what it is - someone else's experience/likes.
My first jacket I spent way too much time on what others thought I should do. Not the way to go in the end - but listen as there is good advice to be had here.

 

[Carlos840]

Like Butte, i think it is easy to spend far to much time obsessing about little details.
Just follow your gut feeling, and then stick to it.
Whatever you do, you will not get your first jacket 100% right, and even if you do get it 95% right, you will want another one to try different things.

Welcome to the forum, i hope you have free space in your closet....

 

[A-1]

Hi WT and welcome to the rabbit hole!!!

Well, you’ve already gotten a lot of good advice here!
But as the others said, in the end it’s your personal taste that is important.

Here are my thoughts anyway:

I mean, the most important thing is that the jacket looks bad ass! You won’t be wearing it if it doesn’t!

Black stitching on black leather is never a mistake. That said, I also love the olive drab. But then, I look and feel like a Greek God!

The lining is great when it’s thick for riding! Even if you have a Front Quarter Horse Hide jacket, it’s still not really warm in colder days. The lining does most of the warming.

I don’t know about your stature, but if you want to wear the jacket in three seasons, it means layering, which I also love. But please consider if the Premier cut is the right one for your use. As far as I understand, it’s quite a slim cut and therefore not ideal for layering.

As for the hardware, I only got three words for you: brass, brass, brass.

But, Carrie at Thurston should be a great help! Don’t be afraid to ask her all the questions you’ve got.

Good luck on your first one!

Will be seeing you around, I guess.

Best, Zeki

 

[Witchtrip]

Wow - thank you all for all the excellent advice here. It has been a huge help!

I've actually emerged from the granular madness of the tiny details and everything you all have posted has helped a great deal in the final touches.

I'm pretty damn skinny (5' 11" 145 - 150lbs) been this way my whole life (late 40s now) and I'm worried I'll be swimming in the premier cut! Ha. We shall see soon enough.

I will keep you all posted on the final list - right now the only slight waver is med vs heavy tartan.

I turned to you all as I didn't want to drive Carrie crazy - I ask a lot of questions...

TBC

 

[jacketjunkie]

The HWM Premier cut isn't as super slim as the Premium Half-Belt I believe, at least guessing from the fit pictures Sloan posted long while ago. Have you talked with Carrie about a Board Racer Sheene as an alternative?

 

[MRB1248]

Welcome to NJ. I think with your build, you definitely need the premier, if not like jacketjunkie mentioned the sheen. I don't think they have that on their website anymore though. But if you look on the threads you will find some mentions of it and how it fits. I am sure someone here will correct me if I am wrong, but I believe the Sheen is a cafe racer (very trim fit) with a collar. Personally though, I always like the look of the HWM better.
And maybe this summer will be like it was 2 years ago when we were wearing our jackets on 4th of July. I doubt it though, I now have a jacket that would protect me from firework accidents.

 

[Witchtrip]

That's what I've been thinking looking at the different pics. The fit jacket comes tomorrow and I was going to hold off asking Carrie until I actually try it on. This is the part I hope goes smoothly. She's been a great help so far. I trust they will make sure I get a good fit.