Need Advice On Measuring For Highwayman

[Goodguy]

Hi, I live in the States and so self-measuring is my only option for having an Aero Highwayman made. I'm pretty certain I need a size 44 long, being 6'2" and having a slim build, at arounfd 175 or 180 lbs. My waist is about 36, however, I'm uncomfortable instructing Aero to make the waist of the Highwayman 36 because I'm not sure how it would fit. I'd rather Aero do just a default waist measurement of whatever they would normally use for a 44 long. If there is a little extra room, that would be ok. I'm concerned that a 36 waist might be too snug. I guess then my question is does Aero have a default waist measurement for a 44 long? Thanks.

 

[Fanch]

I recently received my second Aero jacket, which happens to be a Highwayman, through Mark Moye, who is the Aero representative in the U.S.
Mark lives in Columbia, S.C. and was fantastic helping me determine what to order. You can contact Mark through email: aeroleatherusa@aol.com or by calling him: (803) 787-3020. You can also click on the following link to look at his website:

http://www.picturetrail.com/aeroleatherusa

I am almost 6'2" and weigh 190 and ordered a 46 long in the Highwayman, although my son who is 6'4" and 220 can also wear it. At your size, I would imagine that a 44 long would work. There are rings on the side that adjust at the waist, so that you would have no problem with waist issues. I am 38 in the waist; so is my son. The 46 long coat is a somewhat loose fit on me and probably fits my son better. I normally wear a 44 long sportcoat; my son, a 46 long. What is your size in a sports coat or suit coat?

I did go with the mid-weight goatskin, although most people go with horsehide. The front quarter HH is very heavy; I personally would order the mid-weight "jerky" HH. Since I live in Texas, I went with the cotton drill lining throughout. I might have gone with one of the wool linings if I lived in North Dakota.

I hope this helps. I think that everyone on this thread has the highest opinion possible for Mark Moye. My experience with him has certainly been very positive.

 

[Goodguy]

I recently received my second Aero jacket, which happens to be a Highwayman, through Mark Moye, who is the Aero representative in the U.S.
Mark lives in Columbia, S.C. and was fantastic helping me determine what to order. You can contact Mark through email: aeroleatherusa@aol.com or by calling him: (803) 787-3020. You can also click on the following link to look at his website:

http://www.picturetrail.com/aeroleatherusa

I am almost 6'2" and weigh 190 and ordered a 46 long in the Highwayman, although my son who is 6'4" and 220 can also wear it. At your size, I would imagine that a 44 long would work. There are rings on the side that adjust at the waist, so that you would have no problem with waist issues. I am 38 in the waist; so is my son. The 46 long coat is a somewhat loose fit on me and probably fits my son better. I normally wear a 44 long sportcoat; my son, a 46 long. What is your size in a sports coat or suit coat?

I did go with the mid-weight goatskin, although most people go with horsehide. The front quarter HH is very heavy; I personally would order the mid-weight "jerky" HH. Since I live in Texas, I went with the cotton drill lining throughout. I might have gone with one of the wool linings if I lived in North Dakota.

I hope this helps. I think that everyone on this thread has the highest opinion possible for Mark Moye. My experience with him has certainly been very positive.

Thanks so much for your thoughts. I spoke with Will at Aero this morning, who was great and very helpful. He helped me sort out measurements and for the waist, we're going with what is sort of a standard 39" Looking forward to wearing the jacket in the new year.

 

[dormicica]

Highwayman dimensions

Hi Goodguy, I am almost in the same situation (please see the thread I had initiated) – I received my first Highwayman which proved to be too large in all respect. Now the problem is Aero want ME to decide as to how much smaller the replacement should be. I am afraid of deciding on my own and possibly loose the original Highwayman cut. I somehow need to learn what amount of "play" be incorporated in the chest, waist and length. It would be of enormous help if you shared the logic you with Will at Aero had arrived at.

 

[Goodguy]

Hi Goodguy, I am almost in the same situation (please see the thread I had initiated) – I received my first Highwayman which proved to be too large in all respect. Now the problem is Aero want ME to decide as to how much smaller the replacement should be. I am afraid of deciding on my own and possibly loose the original Highwayman cut. I somehow need to learn what amount of "play" be incorporated in the chest, waist and length. It would be of enormous help if you shared the logic you with Will at Aero had arrived at.

Hi, good luck with your Highwayman. I wear mostly custom-made clothes, and have an appreciation for proper fit. With Aero, it's the first time I'm doing the measuring and I don't want to rely on my measurements, so I'm accepting of the Highwayman possibly not having as exacting a fit as my suits, etc. That said, I own a lot of off-the-rack coats, leather and other materials, of every type and the common denominator is they are all size 44 long, and they pretty much fit fine. So, Will and I agreed that 44 long would likely be my size with the Highwayman. With sleeve length, I went with my shirt sleeve length, which is 36. I'd rather the Highwayman sleeves be a little longer than shorter because short sleeves are far more unattractive, IMO. The only question then was the waist. I was not comfortable having the Highwayman made to my exact waist measurement of 36", again, because I'm not comfortable with my own measurements. Will was comfortable going with their standard waist size of 38-40 which coincides with their 44 chest. Will said he'd probably cut a 39" waist, which I'm happy with--not too tight, not too loose. If it turns out to be a little loose at the waist, I'll be ok with that. So, that's pretty much how it went. Amanda at Aero is nice, but Will has far more knowledge about the technical aspects of their jackets, plus he took my order, as well, so it was a seamless process. Hope this helps.

 

[dormicica]

how much play in the cut ?

Hi,
I am 5 foot 8, 40 chest, 32 waist in jeans. After sending in the requested body measures I received a jacket from Aero what they called a 'regular 40`. It turned out to be looser and larger then necessary in each of it`s dimensions, that is

9 inches play in chest
9 inches play at waist
1 inch longer sleeve then in my other jackets

I like motorcycle jackets rather snug, but I am aware the Highwayman is by design not a very snug cut. Still, the above play seems to be much too much.
My problem is to decide how much PLAY (added to actual body sizes) I should go with when re-ordering the jacket.
I wonder how others decide at the right amount of play in chest and waist.

 

[Goodguy]

Hi,
I am 7 foot 8, 40 chest, 32 waist in jeans. After sending in the requested body measures I received a jacket from Aero what they called a 'regular 40`. It turned out to be looser and larger then necessary in each of it`s dimensions, that is

9 inches play in chest
9 inches play at waist
1 inch longer sleeve then in my other jackets

I like motorcycle jackets rather snug, but I am aware the Highwayman is by design not a very snug cut. Still, the above play seems to be much too much.
My problem is to decide how much PLAY (added to actual body sizes) I should go with when re-ordering the jacket.
I wonder how others decide at the right amount of play in chest and waist.

7 foot 8? Do you mean 5 foot 8? I've heard some indicate the Highwayman is supposed to fit snugly, however I'm comfortable with some play as I like to layerwith a sweater in winter. Try on other jackets or coats in your closet and I imagine they all have some degree of play. I wouldn't get too worked up as long as it's comfortable and looks good on you.

 

[dormicica]

sorry, it is 5 foot 8. Well, the jacket I first received from Aero was more then comfortably baggy, 8-9 inches play in the chest is rather much.
http://s253.photobucket.com/albums/hh43/macibandi/
The problem is I have no jacket in similar cut, just real bikers' jackets which are meant to be really snug. I need to decide how much to add to my actual sizes but it is really difficult for a layman like me...
Is Will located in Ireland (Aero)? Is it possible to get in touch with him (maybe via Skype)?

 

[Goodguy]

sorry, it is 5 foot 8. Well, the jacket I first received from Aero was more then comfortably baggy, 8-9 inches play in the chest is rather much.
http://s253.photobucket.com/albums/hh43/macibandi/
The problem is I have no jacket in similar cut, just real bikers' jackets which are meant to be really snug. I need to decide how much to add to my actual sizes but it is really difficult for a layman like me...
Is Will located in Ireland (Aero)? Is it possible to get in touch with him (maybe via Skype)?

I might not be the best person to solicit an assessment from because I'm new to the Highwayman and don't know if there is a consensus on how it's supposed to fit. I am pretty knowledgeable about how "civilian" clothes should fit, such as suits and sport jackets, and the last pic of the jacket from the rear, IMO, looks fine. I say that because you need to have freedom of movement of your shoulders and arms, and if the back of the jacket is too snug, it might restrict free movement. Keep that in mind, I don't think you want to be wearing a straightjacket. Regarding the pic in which you're throwing your arms forward, yes, it appears that there is a fair amount of room in the front of the jacket, but I wonder if that's a consequence of throwing your arms forward. If I were to do so with any of my jackets, I'd cause the same result. Keep in mind you're not walking around with your arms held out like that. It's like the old joke about the patient who tells his doctor that his arms hurts when he raises his hand, and the doctor tells him not to raise his hand. If, indeed, the jacket is too large and by such a wide margin, my question is how did this happen? Presumably, you know your size and provided measurements to Aero. Did Aero screw up? Did they not cut the jacket to the correct measurements? I think you should sort all of these issues out, from whether the jacket is too large to what the correct size should be. You don't want to make corrections blindly.

 

[Goodguy]

As a quick postscript, freedom of movement is necessary in the front of the jacket, too, necessitating some added leather in the chest area. Some refer to this as drape. IMO, having a little excess leather by the chest is a plus not a negative.

 

[dormicica]

Hi, thanks for the detailed thoughts. After a long discussion with Mark Moye we decided the Highwayman cut is not the one I am after. Meanwhile I sold the jacket on eBay. As a justification of my being unhappy with the size the guy who bought the jacket was very happy with the fit - he is 2 feet taller and 2 inches wider in the waist then myself. 8 inches surplus in the chest area is much too much, that is for sure (I am 40, jacket was 48). I am not sure if Aero normally tend to cut the Highwayman really baggy or they had misjudged my actual size. But I am sure all you guys posting pics on this forum wearing a Highwayman seem to prefer a tighter fit Highwayman than my jacket had been designed. Now I am looking for receiving an Ace Cafe Racer jacket with custom sized shoulder width and length – keeping my finger crossed... Take care.

 

[FLATHEAD]

I'm pretty certain I need a size 44 long, being 6'2" and having a slim build, at arounfd 175 or 180 lbs

As a justification of my being unhappy with the size the guy who bought the jacket was very happy with the fit - he is 2 feet taller and 2 inches wider in the waist then myself

2 Feet taller than you? That would make the guy over 8 feet tall!!

I guess you mean 2 INCHES taller than you...

Jim

 

[nightandthecity]

dormicia...

sorry i didn't see your original thread, i only visit the lounge occasionally these days.....

as it happens I have a highwayman which is labelled as a 38 but which in my opinion is really a 40 (and I have been dealing vintage jackets around 30 years now). It measures....

24" (48") chest, pit to pit
25" arms, down top edge
25" back, from base of collar
18.5" shoulders, straight across the top back.

Even as a 40 this is a large chest (typically a 40 would be 22" pit to pit) but it seems to work. I am 38 chest, 5ft 7", 33 waist and it looks OK as long as I turn the cuff up, but it isn't ideal. If i sold it I would describe it as a 40.

The basic "ebay standard" measurements are only so much help as ultimately it depends on every single measurement and how they interact, plus how a jacket is meant to fit/look. But 22" pit to pit is the most typical measurement of a period utility leather in size 40, i.e. 4" play in the chest.....though bike jackets are often a little tighter

Hope this is of help.

 

[dormicica]

Sorry, my English again, if I am in a hurry I make stupid mistakes... No, it is not Frankenstein's creature I sold the jacket – the guy is two inches taller than me.
Thanks for your thoughts, Nightandthecity, they will be very useful since I decided that after the Cafe Racer – as soon as I manage to save the money – I will purchase a smaller size Highwayman or a Half Belt. I wonder what you think – Half Belt seems to be a bit tighter fit by design than the Highwayman.

 

[Peacoat]

Just be aware that some of us have had the opposite experience with Aero. My Highwayman is labeled a 42, and is a little tight on me. Tight in the chest, tight in the arms, but it fits in the waist. I ordered a size 44 in the arm length and in the torso length, which is an inch longer than the 42. I could have used yet another inch in length in the arms and torso as I ride a bike and like a little longer fit. I also am not a fan of the form fit because of the bike riding, but that is what I got and am having to learn to adapt to it.

Although I will say that it has stretched in those places it needed to stretch and is a very custom fitted jacket. Had I known how fitted it would be, I would have ordered a size larger so I could wear a vest or sweater under it on those cool bike riding days.

So, don't assume that all Highwayman cuts will be big; mine wasn't.

 

[dormicica]

Hi, Peacoat, thanks for your thoughts. It is weird you had the opposite experience. it seems the best approach is really to decide how much extra space one needs over the actual bodily dimensions and give that data to Aero.
I wonder how your Highwayman looks when you have it on (you can see mine on Photobucket, address given in a previous post).
I too ride a motorcycle, now I will see whether the Cafe Racer is a better fit for riding as the Highwayman (it most probably is, although in this case I would have preferred a Highwayman as I want to use the jacket as a casual wear, too.)

 

[Peacoat]

Here is a picture of the coat with me wearing it. When I compared it to my avatar, I noticed that I have lost some hair since I was a pilot forty years ago.

And here is a better picture of the motorcycle doing what it does best while I was warming up for the state rally competition last year. I don't have the jacket on, but you can use your imagination to see what it would look like on me while doing these floorboard scrapping maneuvers. If the photographer had snapped the picture just a little sooner, she would have caught the bike with the forks locked, as well as scrapping the boards--Look, Lock and Lean.

 

[jamespibworth@n]

Forty years ago??

Never mind the jacket, you’ve have worn well!!

You sure that bike isn’t just lent on its side with you sat on it?