Navy Blue Peacoat :)

[Shangas]

I haven't been too active here on the F.L. for a while, been devoting my time to other interests. But in recent months I've been unconsciously striving to build myself a better vintage or at least vintage-style/inspired wardrobe.

In the last six months, I've bought...

One vintage dressing-gown (maroon red check).
One pair of moccasin-style house-slippers.
Three pairs of classic, darted men's leather gloves (black, brown and tan).
Two light wool scarves for winter (one blue and one red).

But it occurred to me that I didn't have a decent overcoat. Last year, I was forced to throw out an overcoat I've worn since I was a kid, because it was being turned into a moth buffet. I was very upset because I liked that coat very much. My dad gave me a replacement - his old grey single-breasted thingy...which I must admit, I don't enjoy wearing. It's got a very deep V opening in the front due to the fold of the lapels - and to me, that's counter to what a good winter-coat should be, because it just allows the wind to blow down your chest, and it's bloody irritating!

On top of that, it's also being eaten alive by moths.

After watching a few videos on Youtube, I decided to go out and buy a decent winter coat that I knew I would wear, and that I would enjoy wearing. A shop in town had a sale on overcoats - but at $200...eeeh...

I went bargain-hunting today, and stumbled across a stall at the local weekend flea-market that was selling men's winter coats at HEAVILY reduced prices. Like, 75% discount. It was all excess stock from a local menswear shop that they were trying to get rid of, and I was lucky enough to find a nifty, navy blue peacoat in my size! It has all kinds of features on it which I just love! And at $60...I bought it!

It's got two nice, deep slash pockets, and one inner pocket. It's got an eight-button double-breasted front, which can be buttoned right up to the chin. It has adjustable cuff-cinches, and even epaulets on the shoulders!

The only thing I didn't like about the coat was that it was left-over-right button-closure only. And I wanted a coat which I could button either way - left-over-right, or right-over-left.

After examining the coat, I decided that I would just buy it - and then modify it myself, later. So, I did!

These first two pictures show the coat buttoned as it was made - right-over-left. Which is fine. But since I wanted to be able to button it either way - without having to constantly stop and think: "Do I fold it this way, or the other way, or...?" - I made a few modifications.

Using the existing buttonholes, I chalked up new buttonholes on the other side of the coat, measured them, marked them, and then sewed them up on my antique Singer. Then I cut them open and reinforced them with hand-stitching. With two rows of buttonholes, I can use it any way I want! The results are below:

 

[Will Zach]

Nice coat. Now let's see them fit-pics!

 

[Shangas]

As you command.

For reference, I'm 5'7".

I'm wearing a blue french-cuff shirt, slacks, blue, five-button waistcoat, pocketwatch, chain, sportscoat/jacket, and then the peacoat over the top. The peacoat is MEDIUM-sized.

Open:

Buttoned the "traditional/accepted" way:

Fully buttoned, top and bottom:

And the collar up:

 

[Shangas]

So what's the verdict? Does it look like it fits alright? Or should I move the buttons slightly to give it a bit of a tighter fit? Is that permissible?

Here's the fit without my jacket on underneath...

 

[Seb Lucas]

Fits well. Nice work with the buttons Shangas. Always good to have skills like these. My mum told me how to sew on buttons about 40 years ago and I don't think a year has gone by when I haven't had to use this skill. I wish I could use a sewing machine.

My idea of an overcoat is one that ends at my knees or further down. Hard to find these days. I remember Melbourne when you could buy a range of decent overcoats in menswear stores and department stores. Don't see them anywhere anymore. I bought a mint 1960's long grey garbardine overcoat in a thrift shop for $20. It still had a price tag in pounds on it from our pre-decimal (1966) currency. I've worn it each winter for the last 10 years. I need to find a good military trench in dove grey.

 

[Shangas]

I've worn it now for a full day, and I reckon the fit is just about right, yeah. The only thing I don't like about this coat is that there's only one interior pocket, and not two. But for what I paid, you can't have everything. Who knows, if I find a better one at a good price...eh. Can't be too greedy, though.

My grandmother was a dressmaker - it was she who taught me how to sew, cut and stitch buttonholes. She taught me all kinds of basic tailoring things like how to sew buttons, how to sew buttonholes, how to hem trousers, etc, etc. Where possible, I do all my own clothing repairs just because it's faster and cheaper.

 

[Peacoat]

You can move the buttons about an inch without altering the looks of the coat. More than that and it is out of proportion.

With the open overcoats, a scarf is mandatory in cold weather. I currently have three overcoats in navy, charcoal and dark grey herringbone. My dark red scarf works well with all three. I have other scarves but the dark red is my favorite with those overcoats.

Wellcome back to the Lounge. PC