My first "real" leather jacket - where to put my money?

[AlexB]

Hi,

my name is Alex, I am 30 yrs old from Berlin. This is my very first post in this forum, however I am reading posts here for quite some time.

I hope I am not opening a new thread regarding a topic that has been discussed similarly before. I tried to search the entire forum before, I found lots of helpful information, but not exactly what I was looking for.

I am finally looking for my first real, quality made leather jacket lasts for a “lifetime”.

I own several leather jackets from brands like Belstaff, Diesel or AllSaints. They are good looking, but not what I consider a real leather jacket that breaks in and evolves over time and finally tells a story in the end.

I am looking for a jacket that is something in between a classic Café Racer and Highwayman. I want to wear the leather ideally all year. Not necessarily at cold winter days and hot sommer days but everything else. It should be build sturdy as I am wearing it when driving around with my BMW R100R, but also should be good for a nice pub crawl in Berlin.

So far, I considered Aero, Simmons Bilt and Thedi Leathers as potential brands.

I read a lot about the history of Aero and AL/ Simmons Bilt and I am really happy that the dispute has been resolved to Aero's favor. However, I also think that it is good to have some competition in the market and in the end, I do not want to penalize employees of SB for what one person did. Additionally, from what I read, the person who caused the trouble (Will) isn’t anymore with the company. Built quality in the end is for me the most important point.

Thedi leathers is also on my list, having met Theodor last week in Berlin on the Selvedge run. His jackets seem well built and the leather in general feels softer and cuts seem to be a little more modern.

In Berlin we have two stores selling products of Simmons Bilt (Burg und Schild) and Thedi (Harry Damson Speed Shop). This is definitely a plus for me compared to Aero because I prefer to feel a product before I put >1000€ on the table. Additionally, the shops guarantee for sizing and fit when you order a customized one. Yes, it is slightly more expensive than ordering directly, but this is definitive a bonus when reading about sizing problems.

I would highly appreciate to get your recommendations. Are you a criminal when ordering at SB? Is Thedi just a brand recently hyped in times of heritage/ selvedge etc.? Which leather would you go? I really love the feel of FQHH.

Thank you very much!!

Alex

 

[El Marro]

Blaupulp,
Welcome to The Fedora Lounge! For me this would be a pretty easy choice, I would go for the Thedi. In fact I recently had a Thedi jacket made for me in Buffalo and it is really something special! Theodoros is making some of the coolest jackets out there at the moment and I think they could definitely meet the qualifications for your “one” jacket if you got the right leather and lining put together.

 

[Guppy]

Put your money in an inside pocket, preferrably one with a zip closure, for best security. If you're extra paranoid, you may look into having a hidden pocket made that casual thieves will overlook if they riffle through your jacket. This doesn't stop them from stealing the jacket itself, though! Never take it off, and that can't happen. Also, you'll get the best patina that way.

 

[zebedee]

I'd go with an Aero. I have an SB, but it was a custom order, and I am not keen on the collars of their regular jackets. Aero has an excellent range of styles- I think the Highwayman with gun pockets and button cuffs is an excellent choice. I'd also recommend a mid-weight hide (or goatskin) for a first jacket, as the weight of fqhh can be a bit limiting as to when you can wear your jacket otherwise.

If longer jackets are your thing, a Stockman (buttons) or a Long Half Belt are both good choices.

 

[jacketjunkie]

Hey Alex,

if you want a mix between HWM and CR, I would suggest the Aero Sheene or SB Tailgunner. Both are CR patterns with a casual HWM-ish collar that should perform okay-ish on the bike (I don't believe in Aero or SB as riding jackets) and certainly look and wear great casually!

Buying a SB will ensure you to get less likes if you post it in the WAYWT-thread, but out there in the real world, noone will bat an eye. I met Steve at their workplace when I traveled through Scotland, so I may be biased because he was an all around friendly and pleasant to talk to guy. Most people here will tell you to stay away from SB.

Thedi makes very stylish jackets, probably the most stylish out of the three makers you suggested, cannot tell you more about them though as I don't own one.

If I was you, I'd get a Vanson Enfield btw, better jacket for on the bike than all above, also a mash-up of CR and casual and you can buy off-the-rack from some european dealer and return no hassle if you need a different size.

What size are you looking at btw?

 

[AllanP]

yeah trying the product on is a huge plus for me imo. You dont have to worry about fit and sending out measurements for the first time which can be confusing.

 

[handymike]

You are so lucky to be able to try these jackets in person! I believe Aero also has stockists in Germany (not Berlin). I would go find one to try first. The Highwayman is a tricky fit. The Sheene is a great option as you can get one made to look like the HWYMN. The fit is the same as their cafe racer pattern. Maybe consider an August collar shape:

https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/new-jacket-aero-sheene-crossed-with-aero-highwayman.93825/
I had a Seven which is built on their Board racer (trim-fitting) cafe style:

The Horween FQHH will definitely give you the challenge you are asking for with the break-in BUT... I love what Thedi is doing with his jacket designs.

If they fit you well, then Harry Damson is the direct line and way to go! Thedi's Buffalo is amazing!!!! I loved my Thedi shawl collared jacket!

 

[Boyo]

Hi Alex, Welcome to TFL.. In my opinion you cant go wrong with any of the makers you are considering. the problem comes in when trying to decide on the many options.
just to confuse things for you a bit more, This jacket may be worth a look as it is currently in Pre-order from Iron Heart, its a Simmons Bilt in Blattwerk Horse Hide.

the sample has some really interesting horizontal gaining that i find really cool..

take a look here www.ironheart.co.uk/jackets/ihsb-wj-deposit.html

Which ever jacket you choose, im sure we would all like to see it

rgds

 

[willyto]

If you have access to try on Thedi leather jackets I think there's no doubt. Go for a Thedi!

 

[2jakes]

I am looking for a jacket that is something in between a classic Café Racer and Highwayman. I want to wear the leather ideally all year. Not necessarily at cold winter days and hot sommer days but everything else. It should be build sturdy as I am wearing it when driving around with my BMW R100R, but also should be good for a nice pub crawl in Berlin.

So far, I considered Aero, Simmons Bilt and Thedi Leathers as potential brands.

Something to take into consideration:
Weight.
Of all the jackets which I own, for all day wear I usually lean towards
one which is comfortable in the sense that I'm not aware of having it on.
Also have one which is well made, rugged and looks great but I can only
wear for certain period because of the weight.
Welcome to the forum !

 

[ai00344]

You are so lucky to be able to try these jackets in person! I believe Aero also has stockists in Germany (not Berlin). I would go find one to try first. The Highwayman is a tricky fit. The Sheene is a great option as you can get one made to look like the HWYMN. The fit is the same as their cafe racer pattern. Maybe consider an August collar shape:
View attachment 127713
https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/new-jacket-aero-sheene-crossed-with-aero-highwayman.93825/
I had a Seven which is built on their Board racer (trim-fitting) cafe style:
View attachment 127707
The Horween FQHH will definitely give you the challenge you are asking for with the break-in BUT... I love what Thedi is doing with his jacket designs.
View attachment 127716
View attachment 127717
If they fit you well, then Harry Damson is the direct line and way to go! Thedi's Buffalo is amazing!!!! I loved my Thedi shawl collared jacket!

That Sheene Highwayman hybrid of technovox’s is the current heavy weight champ in my eyes.

 

[red devil]

From your options, I would definitely go for Thedi... Theodoros is a rider, so his jackets are good to ride in, I am currently using this one to ride:
https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/thedi-mtc-127915-in-tan-buffalo.91938/

 

[Dr H]

For the style that you describe, I’d go for a Freewheelers Four Corners (http://freewheelers.co.jp/blog/archives/16183).
Depending on your size, you can pick up smaller (38/40) sizes on Japanese auction sites for a reduction in price over the retail outlets.
From your list though, I’d opt for Thedi.

 

[Downunder G Man]

Maybe also consider Schott of New York ?

I know they also manufacture now in Europe , but having handled both it's "Union made in the USA" for me.

I would imagine there is a Schott retail stockist in Germany ?

I have MULTIPLE jackets , and find my Schott 641HH café racer to be "perfect" for me.

Schott 689H is the same jacket essentially with a spread collar which changes the look.

I have Eastman Luftwaffe variants that cover that look for me already of course.

In any event all of your suggestions are lovely !

 

[Monitor]

Schott makes a nice jacket, too.

 

[handymike]

Haven't seen that one.

 

[HawaiiShrimp]

Schott looks nice.

 

[Peacoat]

Hi Alex, welcome to the Lounge. You have certainly done your homework.

It's a shame that you don't have a store that stocks Aero in your area. The Sheene in the brown FQHH is a very nice hide/color combination with a subtle and uncluttered design. But I understand your desire to try jackets on to get a good fit and to handle the jacket.

While I would never buy a SB, at least not in the next 50 years, you wouldn't be a criminal for doing so. Those of us who were active here when the troubles were on going, have strong feelings on the subject, but you have a clean slate on the topic, as do many of our newer members. Get whatever is the best for you. I promise I won't make any snide comments if you get a SB and post pictures. Probably won't make any comment at all.

 

[AlexB]

What a great forum!! I really appreciate all the answers, I’m impressed how you guys really support me in making my decision. I really liked the Schott jacket. Today went trying on some Thedi leather jackets - unfortunately they won’t fit me in standard sizes and 1500€ is a lot for my first jacket(2meters tall, normal/slim anatomy). Actually I also liked the more sturdy feeling of the SB hides. Probally Aero would be the same and me personally would also prefer to support Aero, but unfortunately there is no distributor around and I have really good experience with the guys from Burg&Schild in Berlin.
Last but not least: I am also impressed that there are, no matter which forum on whatever topic you use, there are guys like Guppy that the there time to write an answer that has no value at all. I always ask myself how these people are in real life conversations - are they also just giving somebody who asks a question shit? Probably not, but that’s the great thing about the internet - you can behave as the “coolest badass” without consequence
Looking forward to have many more discussions with everybody else here! Are there any leather types for SB/ Aero you wouldn’t recommend at all?

 

[Peacoat]

What a great forum!! I really appreciate all the answers, I’m impressed how you guys really support me in making my decision. I really liked the Schott jacket. Today went trying on some Thedi leather jackets - unfortunately they won’t fit me in standard sizes and 1500€ is a lot for my first jacket(2meters tall, normal/slim anatomy). Actually I also liked the more sturdy feeling of the SB hides. Probally Aero would be the same and me personally would also prefer to support Aero, but unfortunately there is no distributor around and I have really good experience with the guys from Burg&Schild in Berlin.
Last but not least: I am also impressed that there are, no matter which forum on whatever topic you use, there are guys like Guppy that the there time to write an answer that has no value at all. I always ask myself how these people are in real life conversations - are they also just giving somebody who asks a question shit? Probably not, but that’s the great thing about the internet - you can behave as the “coolest badass” without consequence
Looking forward to have many more discussions with everybody else here! Are there any leather types for SB/ Aero you wouldn’t recommend at all?

That's pretty harsh on our friend @Guppy. I think he was just trying to be helpful.