modern perfumes that work with vintage

[MissElainey]

I was recently turned on to Wiggle perfume oils on Etsy through a giveaway on Va-Voom Vintage blog. (I didn't win, alas.) I did send away for samples, which will last me a while, as they're those little glass vials with the plastic stick stoppers. I'm impressed. Her descriptions are spot-on, and they really do make you think "vintage"! I may have to put "Sparrow" on my holiday list, it's exactly the spicy, woodsy sort of scent I like.

 

[Miss Golightly]

Tom Ford has a terrible (and deserved, I believe) reputation for being sexist in a very nasty way. His ad campaigns certainly bear that out. I would not buy anything with his name on it for that reason alone.

For all the fashion magazines I read I hadn't really heard that before but I did a quick search and came up against some pretty vulgar ads for his menswear line - I'm sure a lot of it is for pure shock value but at the same time they came across as just tasteless and kind of boring.

 

[Miss sofia]

I hadn't heard that either, i just admire his style, i quite often covet clothes and accessories of his when i see them in magazines, even though it's not really my style as such. I don't really pay alot of attention to stuff i read in the media really. We seem to have this build 'em up and knock 'em down mentality going on too much now and i don't subscribe to it really.

 

[Goldfish]

Tom Ford has a terrible (and deserved, I believe) reputation for being sexist in a very nasty way. His ad campaigns certainly bear that out. I would not buy anything with his name on it for that reason alone.

While I most of the advertising done for his line isn't really my style I can't understand why people see the ads as sexist. That - to me- is just another way of telling people that their sexuality is wrong/shameful and deny that women could actually been turned on by something like submission/non-monogamous relationships etc which is the theme of the ads that are called controversial. Yes I am a lipstick feminist .



@MissElainey
We had a brief discussion about Wiggle perfumes before, here.
I didn't get around to order samples yet although this one is calling my name:

"Theda is a dangerously sophisticated blend of absinthe and bitter almond with a heart of lotus and hints of dark earth and smokey wood."

 

[Miss Golightly]

While I most of the advertising done for his line isn't really my style I can't understand why people see the ads as sexist. That - to me- is just another way of telling people that their sexuality is wrong/shameful and deny that women could actually been turned on by something like submission/non-monogamous relationships etc which is the theme of the ads that are called controversial. Yes I am a lipstick feminist .

I can't say that I found the ads to be sexist per se but I did find them distasteful - there was another Gucci ad a few years ago with Carmen Kass (or should I say a part of her) that was very controversial but again I just found it to be quite base.

Unless there is something else about the man himself that I haven't heard I would need to hear more before making a decision on whether he is sexist or not.

For me anyway I prefer my fashion advertising to be beautiful and inspirational (see the A/W Louis Vuitton ads with Karen Elson and Christy Turlington etc.) - if there is too much nudity on display it detracts from the clothing - I know this is to stir up controversy (this has been done to death) but I prefer it to be just about the clothes and for the clothes themselves to be able to stand alone.....

 

[Miss sofia]

I just think we have to resign ourselves to the fact that sex is a tool that is used to great effect today to sell products. I don't necessarily agree with that but i'm ambivalent towards it really, i'm just a girlie and i like pretty stuff, that's the important thing, the pretty stuff! I like to treat myself to a copy of Vogue every month as i like to bill and coo over the lovely things and i'm interested in fashion and photography, but i don' t think i have ever seen any advertising where i have thought 'oh that is overtly sexist, racist, etc', as Miss G said maybe some of it is a bit vulgar and not to my tastes, but then i don't expect the designers and creatives to cater for my every whim, it's about their vision at the end of the day and what sells.

I thought Tom Ford's film 'A Single Man' was beautifully done and all his clothes and accessories seem rather lovely so that's enough for me. I don't read too much into it.

I agree Miss G, the LV clothes and adverts are stunning, i want everything!!

 

[Miss Golightly]

I thought Tom Ford's film 'A Single Man' was beautifully done and all his clothes and accessories seem rather lovely so that's enough for me. I don't read too much into it.

I agree Miss G, the LV clothes and adverts are stunning, i want everything!!

I saw A Single Man too and thought it was beautifully done - very elegant and stylish - Colin Firth was rather good in it too!

The LV clothes are just heavenly! I cut out the ads for my inspiration board (any little photos that tickle me or looks I would like to emulate!) and for A/W have dug out all my long gloves and have them ready to wear!

 

[Miss 1929]

Most of the truly Golden Era perfumes just don't work on me at all, as much as I love them and wish they did - Chanel #5, Shalimar, etc - all smell like cat pee on me.

I tend to stick with a single floral for daytime - rose, lily of the valley, gardenia or violet, and for night time my winter favorite is still the original Poison by Christian Dior from the 80s - it just smells so good on me I don't care what era it is. Sometimes if that is to heavy I prefer Flore by Caroline Herrera, which is a multi floral with strong top notes of lilies, that tends to be my summer evening favorite.

Really, it is more important to find a scent the really works with your chemistry. The Flore became a favorite because every time I wore it people would stop me in the street and compliment me on it. You gotta love that.

I also take my perfumes out of the modern bottles and put them in vintage bottles! Since packaging is half the fun.

And when I go to Mexico City, once every few years, I go to the perfumeria - they do wonderful knock-offs of every scent you can name, without the civet cat fixative, so not only are they cruelty-free but they are inexpensive. They use all the same actual ingredients (not cheap chemical substitutes) but without the musk, it smells the same, just doesn't last as long. However, at $3.50 a bottle instead of $35.00 a bottle, i can stand to put it on more often. Perfumeriras are all over the place, most of them are family businesses that have been in that line for over 200 years.

 

[Miss sofia]

That's interesting Miss 1929, i got a catalogue from a local lady perfumier who makes her own perfumes and some knock-off scents and i was debating whether to try them. But i will give her a go now i think. Thank you.

 

[Goldfish]

I get what you mean when you say that the ads aren't your taste, I myself would prefer a more subtle approach. But I don't believe in "tasteful" or "distasteful" because taste is a very individual thing.

In my opinion the A/W Louis Vuitton collection wasn't all about the clothes, they were promoting the "new women and her body shape" [i can't count anymore how often i have read "this is what a real woman looks like!" - yay let's just replace one ideal with another and call it progress] in magazines and using models that are usually "too fat for runway work" rolleyes like Lara Stone and Laetitia Casta on the catwalk. Why isn't there any controversy over these glamourized stepford wives - it's not like the ads show a strong (working?) woman, dressed in 50s inspired gear, which would actually make a positive, progressive statement?! There's some discussion about this in the bloggosphere, but not enough to actually get noticed. Why is an ad showing three emotionless women in clothes that our society usually associates with the repression of women not controversial?

 

[Miss Golightly]

I get what you mean when you say that the ads aren't your taste, I myself would prefer a more subtle approach. But I don't believe in "tasteful" or "distasteful" because taste is a very individual thing.

In my opinion the A/W Louis Vuitton collection wasn't all about the clothes, they were promoting the "new women and her body shape" [i can't count anymore how often i have read "this is what a real woman looks like!" - yay let's just replace one ideal with another and call it progress] in magazines and using models that are usually "too fat for runway work" rolleyes like Lara Stone and Laetitia Casta on the catwalk. Why isn't there any controversy over these glamourized stepford wives - it's not like the ads show a strong (working?) woman, dressed in 50s inspired gear, which would actually make a positive, progressive statement?! There's some discussion about this in the bloggosphere, but not enough to actually get noticed. Why is an ad showing three emotionless women in clothes that our society usually associates with the repression of women not controversial?

I don't see the LV ads as being in any way controversial - to me it's an ad with beautiful women in beautiful dresses and it makes a nice change from a lot of the vulgarity that is often spread out in magazines (one Diesel ad I saw featuring a girl no more than 20 years of age flashing her chest to a security camera - nice). Lots of fashion ads have women looking emotionless and nothing is said about it so is it the fact that athey are wearing 50's style that is sparking the controversy?

LK Bennett use real working women in their ads and I adore LK Bennett however their ads aren't half as eye-catching or beautiful as the LV ones in my opinion. When you say "it's not like the ads show a strong (working) woman" what kind imagery do you think would represent this?

 

[Miss sofia]

I do agree with you Goldfish, but i think designers are more concerned with selling the products than making progressive socio-political statements. Fashion is fickle unfortunately, smoke and mirrors and i treat is as such. Although the fact they seem to be acknowledging a more realistic body shape is encouraging.

 

[Miss Golightly]

I do agree with you Goldfish, but i think designers are more concerned with selling the products than making progressive socio-political statements. Fashion is fickle unfortunately, smoke and mirrors and i treat is as such. Although the fact they seem to be acknowledging a more realistic body shape is encouraging.

I agree with you there Miss Sofia - it's all about selling their products at the end of the day.

I do think that using different body shapes though is just a fad and I have no doubt that they will revert to using size 0 again.

 

[Miss sofia]

Of course they will, and lets face it, most of these models like Christy T and Karen Elson are hardly representative of the average woman body-wise are they? Just a slight improvement on the sixteen year old super waif! But then they are just beautiful,human clotheshorses!

Actually, back on topic, i bought some of the Sanctuary's violet and rose perfume in Boots today, lovely. Particularly as a room spray as it's a bit too light and floral and smelt a bit odd on me, but i adore the smell of violets, so i will be giving all my linen a blast with it!

 

[Miss Golightly]

Of course they will, and lets face it, most of these models like Christy T and Karen Elson are hardly representative of the average woman body-wise are they? Just a slight improvement on the sixteen year old super waif! But then they are just beautiful,human clotheshorses!

Actually, back on topic, i bought some of the Sanctuary's violet and rose perfume in Boots today, lovely. Particularly as a room spray as it's a bit too light and floral and smelt a bit odd on me, but i adore the smell of violets, so i will be giving all my linen a blast with it!

I love Sanctuary products - is what you bought meant for you to wear or is it a room spray?

Going to get another bottle of Chanel Coco Mademoiselle in the airport in the next couple of weeks - I took a break from it but I always go back to it - the break makes me appreciate it even more!

 

[Miss sofia]

oh sorry, actually it's meant to be a perfume, but i will use it as a room spray as it's too sweet for me but lovely as a room spray. In fact all their products smell delicious, i love the salt scrub and the dry body oil.

I love all the Chanel perfumes, they just smell so heavenly. I have worn No.5 since my mum bought me my first bottle and like you i keep coming back to it. Also it means i can rely on family to keep the stocks topped up at Christmas and birthday, as they know it's my signature scent. I also wear Boucheron which i don't know if you can still buy, but my Mum gave me some old, unopened bottles she had in her cupboard and that is really nice too.

I always feel like my holiday has really started when you get to do the dash round the duty free and grab some perfume! I'm very jealous Miss G!

 

[Miss Golightly]

oh sorry, actually it's meant to be a perfume, but i will use it as a room spray as it's too sweet for me but lovely as a room spray. In fact all their products smell delicious, i love the salt scrub and the dry body oil.

I love all the Chanel perfumes, they just smell so heavenly. I have worn No.5 since my mum bought me my first bottle and like you i keep coming back to it. Also it means i can rely on family to keep the stocks topped up at Christmas and birthday, as they know it's my signature scent. I also wear Boucheron which i don't know if you can still buy, but my Mum gave me some old, unopened bottles she had in her cupboard and that is really nice too.

I always feel like my holiday has really started when you get to do the dash round the duty free and grab some perfume! I'm very jealous Miss G!

I love the Sanctuary body scrub as I love patchouli and orange scents. I'm sure your house will smell glorious Miss Sofia!

I do love Chanel too - I got the spray body oil of No. 5 from my mother-in-law which is lovely - leaves your skin super silky - that could be a big hint for your family for this Christmas!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[Miss sofia]

OOh yes i haven't tried that, the regular body lotion is to die for but i love body oil as i do get quite dry skin! Great idea. I'm going up to London soon for some shopping so i feel an early birthday present to myself coming on! x

 

[JazzyDame]

Beauty

Yesterday, while perusing the perfume counter, I got a whiff of a new fragrance by Calvin Klein called Beauty...it was lovely. A light, modern floral with deliciously warm notes.

And if you haven't tried Versense yet (by Versace), you're definitely missing out! It's pure femininity in a bottle: smells like a fragrant garden in bloom, after a light rain.

 

[Goldfish]

Miss Golightly, I don't think many of us here would see the ad as controversial, but I guess that is also because we are used to seeing beautiful clothehorses from that era?! What I don't get is that in a society that pretends to push the empowerment of woman, where I read article after article praising how well Mad Men portrays the sexism of its time, fashion houses & magazines like LV display such images without any reference to our time and there's no discussion? Noone asking for a critical examination of the image that is portrayed?

How I would imagine an ad showing strong woman - that is a good question!
I would start with facial expression and body language. I would take anything but the three emotionless dolls you can see in the ad. But it's not just the LD ad, there are plenty of retro themed photoshoots in various fashion all displaying the same: skinny model, heavly lip makeup, mouth slightly open, pinup inspired pose. Doing the dishes, sitting in the garden, etc.
I don't mind if women choose to be a good housewive as long as they have a choice and don't expect other women to do the same. There's not enough talk about such themes in vintage/retro communities, imo.

(I am sorry if anything I wrote doesn't make sence, still learning the language)




And to actually be on topic, has anyone tried DSH (Dawn Spencer Hurwitz)?
I just browsed through their site and now I am intrigued.
Esp. the 'Essense Vintage Collection' sounds interesting:

• Aphrodisia type - (Circa 1940’s) A spicy oriental classic from Prince Matchabelli with a rich gorgeous heart and an animalic quality in the dry down.
• Arpege type -(Circa 1927) A classic aldehydic perfume with an elegant, waxy floral middle note and an animalic dry down.
• Chypre type - (Circa 1917) The perfume that inspired the Family! It is rich with a classical heart note and a deep, mossy dry down
• Crepe de Chine type - (Circa 1925) A chypre with subtle gardenia-rose notes and a powdery moss dry down.
• Jungle Gardenia type - (Circa 1950) A heady, sweet tropical floral with an amber-y animalic dry down.
• and more...