Men's clothing for Lindy Hop

[vtgdance]

I've been having a vintage swing dance wardrobe crisis, and haven't been able to find much help from Google. My goal is to find jackets and shirts that work as well for Lindy Hop, Balboa, and Charleston as in these dance clips:

I'd like to get something like the white cropped jacket you see at 1:08 in the Hellzapoppin' clip. Since this is from a 1930s movie, I expect that they're all wearing at least MTM:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mTg5V2oA_hY

The modern professional dancers seem to do fine in shirts, but many seem to avoid moves that would bunch up jacket shoulders:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r44XcUG4J7c

I believe I need to find unstructured, unpadded clothes with high/small armholes. I've tried ordering a few vintage jackets from ebay, but they don't fit as well as I would like. I've learned from friends about OTR, MTM, and bespoke options for ballroom competition. However, these won't look right for swing dance.

So far, I've come up with a few possible solutions. Any help would be greatly appreciated:

• Shop online thrift, with the right questions. How do I ask an online vintage seller for armhole information?
• Talk to a tailor for MTM or massive alteration. How would I get a tailor to get me what I want? I imagine I would need to find the right vintage dance patterns or original garments for copying.
• Change my wardrobe goals. I've recently discovered fitted cardigans: they look nice and don't bunch up noticeably. I know suspenders and vests fundamentally do not have these problems, but I don't know how to pull them off. I look much better in a jacket. I've also heard that military jackets (like the Marine Service Alpha) have high/small armholes and are unpadded, but I'm really uncomfortable with wearing a current American military uniform. I might be comfortable if it ended up looking like something out of "Band of Brothers" or "Dirty Dozen".

 

[Paisley]

Is this for a competition or exhibition? If it's for regular dancing, some short-sleeved shirts and full-cut pants should be fine. Tucked-in shirts tend to become untucked.

I don't know how they dress in upstate NY, but around here, you'd be overdressed in a jacket.

 

[dhermann1]

I thought the unofficial motto of the Fedora Lounge was "there's no such thing as overdressed."

 

[Inky]

Hiya vtgdance and welcome to the Lounge!

My hubby and I have been dancing just a few months, but having a good time. I suggest the shirt/pants option. A jacket would be just too hot for dancing - even though I know Upstate NY is cold this time of year

Hubby wears these because he loves the wide cuffed leg, and I love that they are washable (by hand). He generally wears a slim cut dress shirt, suspenders and a tie if it's a more dressy event, or for casual then a un-tucked retro-styled shirt or one of his guayabera shirts. He also likes a fine-gauge crew neck sweater now and then.

If you are going for true vintage - use caution - I have seen many a vintage clothing disaster on the dance floor - even in my short time dancing! Those old fabrics and seams sometimes just don't hold up to vigorous activity.

And just for fun - have you seen Groovie Movie from 1944? It's a hoot!

 

[Paisley]

I wouldn't wear anything irreplaceable to a swing dance. Shirts get sweat stains, shoes take a beating on a crowded floor, and people can spill drinks.

Vtgdance, you might try the yehoodi.com board, or sending a PM to Reetpleat, Matt Deckard or Forgotten Man (since Dhermann doesn't seem to have any suggestions).

 

[dhermann1]

lol

 

[Forgotten Man]

Is this for a competition or exhibition? If it's for regular dancing, some short-sleeved shirts and full-cut pants should be fine. Tucked-in shirts tend to become untucked.

I don't know how they dress in upstate NY, but around here, you'd be overdressed in a jacket.

Hang those rubes! WEAR A JACKET AND WEAR IT WITH PRIDE! Heck, even wear a tie if you feel like it! You don't have to wear vintage on a dance floor, just wear something other then jeans and a T shirt! Go to a thrift shop and buy some things that look correct and dance! Golly!

Today's dancers all dress like garbage here! I don't like swing dancers, not the ones I see today... they don't even dance to swing music half the time... so, hang the whole lot! I'm a jitterbug, deep down and will only dance to pure music of the period or reasonable bands today who have the correct sound and swing.

Jitterbugs or "Lindy Hoppers" of the 30s and 40s dressed in whatever they could... especially those who didn't have much money. They'd get anything that kinda fit and wear it. But, they always tried to look sharp! That was one thing kids of that era wanted, they wanted to come on man, they wanted to impress! That's how ya got the slick chicks man! No goober in a T shirt would be seen on the dance floor unless it was a juke joint... and even then it was stripped and didn't say "Lindy Slut" or "Dance for BOOZE" on it. And they NEVER BROGHT A CHANGE OF SHIRTS OR SHOES!!! They wore one outfit and one pair of shoes! Golly, I can go on and on and on and on about this but I wont. It's a major pet peeve of mine!

So, remember when you go dancing, to dress it up no matter what those slobs wear, it's not about fitting in, it's about doing WHAT YOU WANT!

 

[reetpleat]

Well, first of all, the short jacket in the clip is a waiters jacket. They are all servants. It was the only way too get black people into a movie that is set around upper class mansions etc. Another option is to have the hero of the movie go slumming into the black part of town.

So unless you want to imitate this clip (been done) don't bother.

If you want to fit in with lindy hoppers in just about any place i know, wear trendy modern emo clothes, or jeans and a baggy t shirt.

If you want to have a little class and look good, get some vintage slacks. they are cheap and easy to find. I would suggest this way before buying some cheap vintage styled slacks because you could buy three pairs of good vintage for the price of one cheaply made repro. pair it with a vintage short or long sleeved gaberdine shirt or something similar. or, pair it with a finitage style shirt, but you come dangerously close to not looking vintge at all if it isn't vintage or very vintage styled.

If you want to emulate the look of east coast black dancers, go for a vintage suit and tie. The savoy was jacket required and the dancers would come out with wet socks from sweating so much. But I don't recommend it. Way too hot.

If you want to emulate the more casual west coast dancers, and have a practical outfit, pair the vintage slacks with a vintage knit short sleeved cotton top, not cheap but cool. Or a striped t shirt. But be sure and have one that looks right for the period, a certain style of stripe pattern in a trim cut and not baggy. There are a lot of them available now because the 70s thing is kind of in and the t shirts are the same. You could actually get away with a white t shirt and slacks if it is vintage cut enough. this is the most practical for dancing. or again, the gaberdine shirt, but still kind of sweaty, at least it is if you dance like they did back then and not the painfully slow dancing they do today under the misnomer of lindy hop. I am sure forgotten man will back me on that statement.

If you want to arrive in style or can stand it, get a tweedy vintage sportcoat or a belted back jacket. The sportcoat in tweed or houndstooth check should be three button with wide lapel and pinched at the waist. never really was popular in the lat ten years or so, but back in the thirties it was very popular with the kids. They are cheap when you can find them. You can pair it with a t shirt, gaberdine shirt or shirt and vintage tie. All appropriate. or any belted back jacket or suit. You can also wear a gaberdine or two tone lounge jacket.

For the finishing touches, get some white bucks from the thrift store or on the cheap at an outlet mall. Ideally, have the sole removed and replaced with leather or leather glued on so you can slide a little. It would be a rare dancer who would actually want sticky feet. Strictly the very acrobatic on a very slick waxed floor. Keep your eyes peeled for a skinny whip belt for the slacks, and maybe a nice fedora. But don't wear the fedora dancing, you will ruin it and look kind of silly in my opinion. Plus it will get knocked off when you do a turn. All this will get you a good authentic but practical look. Of course, in most places these days most dancers will not get it and just think you dress funny.

 

[Paisley]

Hang those rubes! WEAR A JACKET AND WEAR IT WITH PRIDE! Heck, even wear a tie if you feel like it! You don't have to wear vintage on a dance floor, just wear something other then jeans and a T shirt! Go to a thrift shop and buy some things that look correct and dance! Golly!

I'm so glad we got you to come out of your shell.

 

[resortes805]

Just adding my 2 cents here....

Forgotten Man and Reetpleat are right, the "Lindy" scene is kind of slobbed out at the moment. Balboa-swing dancers tend to dress nicer, but I would say that vintage dressers, while certainly a presence, are in the minority (even here in SoCal).

For record hops and DJ'ed dances I usually wear wino sneakers (a favorite amongst LA jitterbugs) vintage slacks, or vintage cut baggies like the dancestore slacks, and a striped t shirt or casual gab shirt.

For dances with live bands I try and bring a coat and tie. I'm also a big fan of pullover cable knit t-shirts and sweaters.

As Forgotten Man mentioned, a lot of people treat a swing dance as a sporting event and pack tons of extra clothes, shoes, and gear. Although I understand his point, I personally pack an extra shirt because I tend to dance to every song. However, if I'm dancing somewhere super fancy like the Cicada Club, I play it cool and leave the extra shirt at home.

 

[Paisley]

Dancing with a guy who is a little hot and sweaty is fine. Putting your hand on a shirt that is soaking wet is unpleasant. Anyone who perspires that much should bring an extra shirt.

However, I think the reason that some people get very hot and sweaty is that they dance fast and furiously to every song, no matter what the tempo or mood of the song is.