Making my first leather jacket- the shell is done

[rgraham]

Since no one can see the front of you, and the back of you at the same time, no big deal.

I think it is fantastic. You can throw it my way if you'd like.

 

[fishmeok]

Mighty impressive for a first effort. Keep at it and you'll be knocking em out in no time. My hat is off to you. :eusa_clap Maybe I can one day get a custom bespoke A2 from your factory?

If by "custom bespoke" you mean a jacket made to fit a guy who is 6' and 190 or so lbs, with about 25 inch sleeves (shoulder to cuff), then yes, I will probably have two or three available by Christmas...lol

Legal disclaimer: Stitching quality and straitness may vary, as will the cut and fit of the jacket. Our staff is unreliable and inexperienced, and tends to complain a lot. There may also be alcohol involved at some point in the construction of our jackets, depending on staff frustration levels.

Cheers
Mark

 

[Senicko_Spain]

It doesn't look all that bad Mark, and I think if you stick a halfbelt on it, it will look pretty decent. Look, you did more than 99% of us here ever would, so you should be proud of yourself just for that reason. Keep at it.

Steve

 

[PADDY]

I'm speechless.

But still have enough breath in reserve just to say "how in awe" I am over what you have accomplished with this jacket!! :eusa_clap Not too many people around could have achieved what you have, so be proud!! Absolutley cracking result!!! :eusa_clap

 

[thunderw21]

The jacket looks great. Only in my dreams...

You, sir, win the award for most inspired and inventive project. Also the most defiant worker, seeing how you've overcome numerous difficulties to make the project wearable.

 

[Rufus]

Mark,

I'm so impressed! I've seen a lot of amazing commitment to DIY in collecting, but this wins hands down!

Congratulations, and I truly hope we'll see more of your handiwork soon... Sobriety of staff and time permitting!

Yours, in awe,
Rufus

 

[Slim Portly]

Two words: Out. Standing.

What a great story. I feel like I'm going through this with you. I can't tell you how many projects I have initiated, making so many frustrating mistakes the first time and improving with every subsequent effort. You do such a great job describing the process, and thanks to the pictures I can see exactly the issues that you are describing. I would see that jacket as a parent sees a child, seeing any imperfections as part of the whole and loving it for what it is, a work of pride.

Congratulations on this amazing work of wearable art. Add me to the list of admirers looking forward to your next project. And my condolences to your wife from another obsessive craftsman.

 

[fishmeok]

I'm calling this sucker- it's as done as can be. If I take it apart anymore I will only make things worse...
I haven't decided if I will finish the knit cuffs, may just save them for another coat. I ended up adding the half belt to lengthen the back, which worked pretty well. Found more things I need to practice, like topstiching. Making the parallel rows on the half belt was particularly trying.

The body ended up being too big around, I think this is more like a 48 short than a 44-46. Overall I guess I'm pretty happy with how it turned out. Lot of firsts involved here.
-First sewing project since a bike bag in home-ec in jr. high (25 years or so ago)
- First time making and using a pattern
- First time cutting up a hide
etc...
I have about $150 in materials in this thing, which is one of the reasons I was trying to make it wearable the first time out. This jacket stuff can get expensive quickly.
Cheers
Mark

Finished jacket, minus the knit cuffs:

This pic really shows the oversize body:

Half belt:

Details:

 

[Maj.Nick Danger]

For a first effort that's awesome. You will be making refinements and probably new styles before ya know it. G-1s, M422s,B3s,...sky's the limit.

 

[nicky boy]

I've really enjoyed seeing this come to fruition.

It's obviously been difficult, but what you've ended up with is a unique, very good-looking leather jacket that suits you down to the ground.

It's a thing of beauty, mate. Well done.

 

[Edward]

Cracking looking jacket, Sir. Really come together well. Had I not known some of the details I have learned on here in terms of pattern and construction, I would easily mistake it for an accurate repro of "the real thing." I think it'd be worth cuffing the sleeves to finish it fully - quite an accomplishment to make your own, wearable jacket. Looking forward to reading about the next project.

 

[John in Covina]

What an awesome first time experience!

 

[Smithy]

For a first attempt and especially as you haven't done a sewing project for over 20 years, that is bloody impressive!

Well done :eusa_clap

 

[kampkatz]

What a delight to see your project through! You really get your heart and soul into a project. It seems that this hobby could become so compulsive that you might not have enough hours in the day. Blessings on your further adventures in sewing.

 

[fishmeok]

Wrap up on the first jacket- lessons learned...

So here's a summary of the first jacket, and what I did wrong...

1) I ROYALLY messed up the pattern. When I upsized the 40 pattern to what I thought was 46 I forgot about the body panel under the arm. Unlike an A-2 the seams do not meet at the armpit and go straight down, the extra panel overlaps front and back. I made the front piece 12" across, which would work out to about a 48 on an A-2 (first mistake there, should have been 11-11.5"). The side panel added another 2" to that, so I ended up with a body that was closer to a size 50, probably more as I made a similar mistake with the back panel.

2) When I upsized the pattern, I enlarged the collar and armholes proportionally. That's how I ended up with a 24" long collar. The armholes were also too big, making them low and baggy. After some conversations with Chapman and some thinking I realized that the collar and arm holes are only mildly upsized to keep the true fit of the jacket. I probably should have only added about a third of what I actually ended up with.

3) Working with leather- this was mostly a learning process, figuring out how my machine works and how to manipulate the complete jacket around on the machine while keeping an even tension under the sewing foot. My machine is very sensitive to control input, and it has very little internal friction. It will take off like a shot if I am not careful with the foot pedal, and takes a few stitches to stop after I lift my foot off.

I'm re-making my body panel patterns, and am going to try this again...
Cheers
Mark

 

[fishmeok]

Jacket Number 2

This is the second try with the expensive hide- the body is complete including pockets and topsticthng. If I can manage to not mess up the collar we may have something here...

I'm much more comfortable with what I'm doing, although I am still having pattern troubles.
Cheers
Mark

Pocket installed:

Shoulder before topstitching

And after

Underarm and seams;

Whole thing

High Armholes!

 

[Maj.Nick Danger]

There ya go ya just keep getting better with practice. Got snaps now too as well as high arm holes. (I want the body of mine to be longer though. )

 

[fishmeok]

Well, don't forget the knit waistband and cuffs have to be added yet. that puts another two or three inches on the jacket.
Cheers
Mark

 

[Senicko_Spain]

Well, don't forget the knit waistband and cuffs have to be added yet. that puts another two or three inches on the jacket.
Cheers
Mark

Mark, you are simply amazing. Respect man, respect. :eusa_clap

 

[Barz51]

Amazing Work! I'd like to see one with the body extended and no knit section on either the body or the sleeves. I realize you are making a historical jacket from a pattern but if you get into custom work...

The new jacket has great lines and you can't beat quality leather. Congrats again!