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LOTS OF SUMMER SPORTS JACKETS--GRAILS! Sz. 36 - 54. Holland & Sherry, Vintage, Scabal, 3/2 sacks +++

tweedydon

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26) Jacket from Josef A. Borg, the tailor who worked on the menswear for Sunset Boulevard...

....and went on to be THE tailor for the Ivy set of Princeton!


Size c. 42








All hand-tailored, and cut from Zegna cloth.

Josef A. Borg was born in Malta, and before the Second World War ran a very successful business tailoring uniforms for the officers of the British Royal Navy. After the war he emigrated to the United States, where his tailoring skills took him to Hollywood to work under the great costume Edith Head, winner of no less than EIGHT Academy Awards for her costumes.

Edith specialized in costuming female leads, but also designed the clothes worn by William Holden. (Interesting, the other male lead, Erich von Stroheim, wore his own clothes.) Naturally, as a designer she didn't make the clothes herself--and hired Josef to work on those worn by the male stars. Thus, while Edith was designing the costumes for Gloria Swanson in *Sunset Boulevard* (based on 1940s Dior designs) Josef was working on cutting, and sewing those for William Holden.

But Josef didn't just want to dress film stars--and he missed running his own tailoring business. So, despite the success of *Sunset Boulevard* he moved from California to the East Coast, attracted to a new style of tailoring that was taking off there--the Anglophilia "Ivy League" look, pioneered by the Princeton tailor Norman Hilton and the retail tailor's Langrock.

As a former tailor to the Royal Navy and the tailor to the classic American film *Sunset Boulevard* the combination of these looks into "The Natural Shoulder Ivy League Style" was a natural for Josef, and he settled into tailoring on Palmer Square in Princeton. Although he didn't only tailor Ivy Style clothing, Borg's work was always utterly classic--and absolutely first rate. (Unlike many tailors, Borg did all of his work himself--by hand.) A piece by Borg was something to be cherished--and something that was exceptionally rare, since his work was all his own.

I'm thus delighted to offer this beautiful jacket by Josef A. Borg of Princeton--hand-tailored by Josef himself.

Tailored in 2006, this was one of the very last jackets that Josef made prior to his death in 2011. Beautifully cut from Zegna cloth that appears to be a blend of silk and linen (or, perhaps, is pure silk alone) the patterning and colourway of this jacket are exquisite--a classic herringbone in light brown and cream. This jacket has a standard two-button front with a single center vent. It has four buttons cuffs with faux buttonholes and two flapped front pockets with lapped seams at the top of the flaps. It is, of course, fully canvassed and fully lined, and has a single center vent. The entire jacket is hand-made, including the hand-stitched buttonholes and the hand-stitched padding under the arms in the lining. It was, of course, made in the USA. More precisely, it was made in Princeton, NJ!

This jacket was worn very sparingly by its original owner--an executive Vice President or a major marketing company--who treasured it. It is thus is almost mint condition.
This is a very, very rare opportunity indeed to own not only a superbly hand-tailored jacket from one of America's premier tailors, but an item that has a direct connection to *Sunset Boulevard*, one of America's premier movies!

As such, this is a bargain at just NOW $65, OR OFFER, boxed, shipped, and insured in the USA.

International inquiries welcome, with shipping at cost!

Measurements:

Chest: 21 1/2
Sleeve: 25 (+1)
Shoulder: 19 1/2
Length: 31 1/2



 
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tweedydon

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27) ABSOLUTELY BEAUTIFUL!

Made in Italy by Corneliani.

Classic Polo Blue Label Double-breasted Peak-label Blazer.

Size c. 42

A significant step up from the usual blue blazer, this wonderful item from Ralph Lauren's "Polo Blue Label" line is the pinnacle of blazer formality--a double-breasted blazer in the classic 6/2 configuration (six buttons on the front, two of which fasten) with peak lapels AND a fully functional ticket-pocket!

I'm sure that everyone reading this knows this already, but Polo Blue Label is a very different (and MUCH better) proposition from the regular Polo line, with many of the the "Made in Italy" items (such as this one) being made by Corneliani.

This beauty shows just why Corneliani is so esteemed. As well as the perfect cut this features hand-done peak-stitching throughout, especially on the lapels and the pocket flaps at the front. The buttons are all brass, and feature the classic Polo helmet and sticks; there are four of these to each cuff in addition to the six on the front. The jacket is half-canvassed and fully lined, and has a classic sporting double vent at the rear.

Asking just $49, or offer, boxed and shipped in the USA.

It was, of course, Made in Italy, and is in absolutely excellent condition.

Tagged 44R. Measurements:

Chest: 21 1/2
Sleeve: 24 1/4 (+2 1/2)
Shoulder: 19 1/4
Length: 31



 
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tweedydon

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28) Alex Cannon of CT Summer Jacket

Size c. 42, 44


Made in Canada, this is a lovely lightweight summer jacket. Although there is no fabric content available this is likely a wool-silk blend. The colourway and patterning are lovely--a light slate-blue miniature broken bone herringbone base that looks almost like sharkskin with a very subtle overcheck in baby blue and golden wheat. This is perfect for Spring and Summer!

The jacket is cut as a British-inspired three button jacket with darting. It has a twin center vent--true to its British heritage--and four button cuffs. It features pick stitching in the lining. It is fully lined, and is in absolutely excellent condition.

Asking just $29, or offer, boxed and shipped in the USA.

Measurements:

Chest: 22 3/4
Sleeve: 24 1/4 (+2)
Shoulder: 20
Length: 31



 
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tweedydon

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29) Paul Stuart "Westgate" Jacket in Silk and Linen!

Size c. 40, 41

This is beautiful! Made for Paul Stuart, this jacket is cut from a summery blend of silk (70%) and linen (30%) which gives it a wonderful drape and extremely interesting texture. The patterning and colourway is also perfect for Spring, Summer, and early Fall, being a light sky blue-grey and cream herringbone heathered throughout with cream.

Fully canvassed and fully lined this is cut as a contemporary two button jacket with subtle darts. It has four button cuffs and a single center vent. It was made in the USA.


It's in absolutely excellent condition, and is a steal at just $29, or offer, boxed and shipped in the USA. International inquiries are welcome!


Tagged 41R, this measures:

Chest: 20 3/4
Sleeve: 23 3/4 (+1 3/4)
Shoulder: 19 3/4
Length: 30






30) UTTERLY IVY! A wonderful jacket (likely silk and linen) in pale pink herringbone, by Oakloom Clothes of Baltimore, MD!

Size c. 38, 40

Oakloom Clothes had an unusual business model--they declined to advertise, considering this to be "vulgar", and relied on the quality of their clothing to speak for itself. No doubt this reticence kept Oakloom from the success that it deserved, for the quality of their clothing was first-rate. They made clothes for Paul Stuart, Bullock & Jones of San Francisco, and Maus and Hoffman in Palm Beach, FL. They specialized in classic, Ivy Style clothing, and this was continued when they were bought out in 1995 by Hartz & Co who wanted to use them as an entry into "the better part of the upper market".


This jacket shows just why Oakloom were so beloved by the few familiar with their clothing. This jacket is cut from a wonderful pale pink and cream herringbone cloth that's likely a blend of linen and silk. The herringbone is accented with vertical stripes in pale green, blue, and sunset gold. The jacket is cut as a contemporary two button jacket with subtle darts. It is half-canvassed and fully lined in cream. It has a single center vent. Union made in the USA, this is in excellent condition.

Asking just $25, or offer, boxed and shipped in the USA. International inquiries welcome!


Measurements:

Chest: 20 3/4
Sleeve: 22 3/4 (+2 1/4)
Shoulder: 18
Length: 30 1/2








 
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tweedydon

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31) Bullock & Jones gingham-esque summer jacket.

Size c. 40

Founded in San Francisco in 1853 to provide clothing to persons made newly rich by the Gold Rush, Bullock & Jones became established as one of the premier purveyors of traditional clothing in San Francisco. They closed their signature Union Square store in 2002, and now only have an online presence.

This jacket shows why they were so well-liked for the century and a half that they operated in person. Cut from a lovely lightweight gingham-esque cloth that's a blend of mainly cotton, lycra, and polymide that feels to the touch to be a seersucker-type fabric. The patterning and colouring is lovely; a conservative gingham-esque blend of black, grey, and cream.


The jacket is a contemporary two button model; it is half-canvassed and fully lined. It has a single center vent, four button cuffs, and was, of course, Made in the USA. It is in excellent condition.

Asking just $29, or offer, boxed and shipped in the USA. International offers welcome, with shipping at reduced cost.


Tagged a 40, this measures:


Chest: 20 1/4
Sleeve: 26 1/2 (+1 1/2)
Shoulder: 19 1/2
Length: 32 1/2







 
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tweedydon

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32) CLASSIC LIGHTWEIGHT BRITISH GUNCHECK; MADE IN THE UK AND PERFECT FOR EARLY FALL!

C.38, 40L

This is a lovely example of a classic British jacket, tailored from a lighter mid-weight wool in a traditional guncheck patterning of forest green, bark brown, and peat black on a tan base. The jacket is a contemporary two button model with darting--standard on almost any British country jacket!--and features twin vents. It is fully lined and appears to be half-canvassed. It was originally sold by that stalwart store of the conservative British middle class, Marks & Spencer. It was Made in the UK, and given its classic good looks, weight, and guncheck colouring this would be perfect for Summer and early Fall

It's in excellent condition, and is a bargain at just $29, or offer.

Tagged 40L, but runs slightly smaller. Measurements:

Chest: 20
Sleeve: 26 (+2)
Shoulder: 18 1/4
Length: 30 1/2








33) PRINCETON UNIVERSITY STORE SILK GLEN PLAID JACKET. C. 40. MADE IN THE USA.

Although there is no fabric content listed this is clearly either all silk, or a silk-wool blend. Cut as a three button jacket with subtle darting this has four button cuffs and a single centre vent. Owing to its high silk content is has a lovely slubby texture which is well suited to the classic bold glen plaid patterning in black, slate grey, and cream, with forest green and golden sunset overchecking. This jacket was Made in the USA, and was originally sold at the Princeton University Store. This is in excellent condition (the interior label will be resewn before shipping) and is a bargain at

just $29, or offer.

Measurements:

Chest: 21
Sleeve: 26 (+1 3/4)
Shoulder: 19 1/2
Length: 32





 
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tweedydon

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34) BEAUTIFUL Alan Royce of Princeton Seafoam Jacket.
JUST $20!!

Size c. 40, 42

Alan Royce was one of the Big Five Princeton clothiers during the Golden Age of Ivy Style, and this jacket shows why. First, the colour is absolutely beautiful--the perfect summer shade of seafoam blue-green; my pictures don't do this justice at all!

Although there is no fabric content listed, it's either lightweight silk, or a blend of silk and linen; it's has a wonderful hand and drape, as is woven as a subtle broken bone herringbone. Cut as a contemporary two button jacket with subtle darts, this is half-canvassed and fully lined. It has four button cuffs and a single centre vent. It was, of course, Made in the USA. It does have one small flaw; a very faint shadow stain on the top left lapel, as shown. As such, this is just in Very Good condition, and is only $20, or offer.

Measurements:

Chest: 21 1/2
Sleeve: 24 3/4 (+2 1/4)
Shoulder: 18 3/4
Length: 30 1/2







35) Lovely Custom Made Salmon Jacket by Aficinando Clothiers--made for Ken Bradt!

Size c. 42


This was originally made for the banker Ken Bradt, the great-great-grandson of Louis Clarke, the founder of Autocar Company--now the oldest surviving motor vehicle company in North America!

This is a lovely jacket! Cut from a lovely light salmon cloth this jacket is half-canvassed and fully lined. It features lots of handwork throughout, especially on the lapels and the placket and on the pocket flaps. It is a contemporary two button front model with subtle darting. It includes fully functional surgeon's cuffs, and a twin vent. It is in excellent condition.

Asking just $25, or offer, boxed and shipped in the USA.

Measurements:

Chest: 22
Sleeve: 25 (1 1/2)
Shoulder: 19 5/8
Length: 30 1/8





 
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tweedydon

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36) NWT ALAN FLUSSER SILK JACKET WITH GORGEOUS LILAC LINING.

PICK STITCHING THROUGHOUT! C.44R

This is a lovely jacket, and would be wonderful for Summer! Cut from pure silk, this jacket is a contemporary two button frontmodel with darting. It has a single center vent, and a wonderful lining in pale lilac pink; the lining features pick stitching throughout. This jacket has three button cuffs and a single center vent. This jacket was an uncollected alteration--the sleeves were taken up--and so is new and unworn; it retains its original boutonniere tag. and all of the pockets are still basted shut, as is the vent. This is thus in excellent condition. Imported--just as the catalogues would say!

Asking just $25, or offer, boxed and shipped in the USA.

Tagged 44R. Measurements:

Chest: 22 1/2
Sleeve: 23 1/2 (+1 1/2)
Shoulder: 20
Length: 31 1/8







 
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tweedydon

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Messages
3,071
Location
Pennington
Bullock & Jones gingham-esque summer jacket.

Founded in San Francisco in 1853 to provide clothing to persons made newly rich by the Gold Rush, Bullock & Jones became established as one of the premier purveyors of traditional clothing in San Francisco. They closed their signature Union Square store in 2002, and now only have an online presence.

This jacket shows why they were so well-liked for the century and a half that they operated in person. Cut from a lovely lightweight gingham-esque cloth that's a blend of mainly cotton, lycra, and polymide that feels to the touch to be a seersucker-type fabric. The patterning and colouring is lovely; a conservative gingham-esque blend of black, grey, and cream.

The jacket is a contemporary two button model; it is half-canvassed and fully lined. It has a single center vent, four button cuffs, and was, of course, Made in the USA. It is in excellent condition.

Asking just $35, or offer, boxed and shipped in the USA. International offers welcome, with shipping at reduced cost. Please PM with interest and offers!

Tagged a 40, this measures:

Chest: 20 1/4
Sleeve: 26 1/2 (+1 1/2)
Shoulder: 19 1/2
Length: 32 1/2





 

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