Looking in buying my first custom made leather jacket

[Fre H]

Hi all,

I am new here on the forum and thought I could best subscribe to this forum after reading many post about leather jackets the last week. I see many here have a lot of knowledge about this subject.
I am from Belgium, male, and 39 years old.
I was looking into Aero, Thedi.
First I was looking into a thinner jacket like a racer jacket but now since winter is coming i was looking into something warmer. Next summer I will be looking for the racer jacket .
I found this, the thedi MTC 127995 which looks pretty nice to me.
From Aero I was looking into the Grizzly or 50's Half Belt Deluxe with fur collar and if it's possible maybe with the heavy duty shearling inside. Somebody has some experience with this? (heavy duty shearling option from Aero) Or maybe a higwayman with the fur collar and the shearling liner inside?

Lot of learning for me here. There are a lot of leather options, liners... to choose from, not easy when you don't know much about that topic ;-)

About the sizing, I am quite tall and quite broad shouldered.

Height 194.5cm – 6ft 4.5”

Natural Chest 116cm – 45.75”

Expanded Chest 122cm – 48”

Stomach 105cm – 41.5”

Waist 107cm – 42.25”

Shoulder circumference - 140.5cm or 55.3"

I also measured 2 jackets that I already have.

But will put that in another post, otherwise this will be too long

Thanks in advance,
Fre

 

[Edward]

Shearling lined leather will be *very* warm, so you might want to think about when you plan to wear this jacket. I have shearling jackets (an Irvin and a B3), and can only wear them between mid November and mid February.

Have a think about what length of jacket you want too - the Highwayman, for example, is waist length, the HB Deluxe a bit longer, and the Barnstormer is mid-thigh. What do you want to wear this with? Over a suit?

 

[Fre H]

Thx for your response. I just want to use is as an all day jacket with a jeans pants. Have you ever seen a Highwayman or HB deluxe with the shearing option? do you think it will be the same thickness as a B3 or Irvin?

 

[Carlos840]

Hi, welcome to the lounge.
I am a fellow Belgian, I owned a B3 for a good 7 years whilst i lived in Belgium, and still have that jacket now that i live in London. Over the past 18 years i would say i have worn it maybe 5 or 6 times.
IMO it just doesn't get cold enough often enough in Belgium for a shearling jacket to make sens, you will NEVER wear it.
It would make a lot more sens to get a cotton lined leather jacket in that part of the world, and to layer underneath when need be.

A shearling jacket is nice to have "just in case", but i would not buy one as my first/only jacket.

 

[Fre H]

Hi, thanks, great to hear! Thanks for your welcome!
Do you think a B3 or alike will be the same a the shearling liner in a HB deluxe or thunderbay?
Yeah, there is no much use if it is correct what you are saying ans I only can use it a few days a year and maybe also on ski holidays 2 weeks a year.
And what about the grizzly, the same story here?

 

[Harris HTM]

I do own a b3 and a shearling lined long half belt, both from aero (you can probably find the thread if you search for it). The b3 is much warmer and bulkier, I used it only a couple of times during the relatively heavy last year's winter (NL). The shearling lined is really warm but not uncomfortably warm, mainly because the sleeves are cordo lined. Advice: if you go for a shearling lined jacket then choose a medium weight hide and thin shearling; I had specified a heavy fqhh hide and the thickest shearling possible and I ended with a beast, heavy as steel.

 

[Fre H]

I thought the B3 was going to be thicker. I didnt know you could choose the the shearling thickness of the liner. Thanks for your tips!

 

[Carlos840]

Hi, thanks, great to hear! Thanks for your welcome!
Do you think a B3 or alike will be the same a the shearling liner in a HB deluxe or thunderbay?
Yeah, there is no much use if it is correct what you are saying ans I only can use it a few days a year and maybe also on ski holidays 2 weeks a year.
And what about the grizzly, the same story here?

I have no idea about a grizzly, i think it shouldn't really be as warm as regular shearling, since it cannot trap air within the jacket...
You can ask the shearling liner to be thinner, ie D-1 thickness, but you still should not expect to wear it very often.
If you really want shearling, i would get a regular cotton lined jacket, allow for a bit of room in it, and maybe get a C-3 shearling vest on the side that you could wear underneath when needed.
I have been wanting to do that for a while but am struggling to justify it because i am rarely cold as it is.

Like i said, in Belgium the most useable lining will be cotton for 95% of the time.

 

[Harris HTM]

I thought the B3 was going to be thicker. I didnt know you could choose the the shearling thickness of the liner. Thanks for your tips!

My b3 is thicker but much lighter; my LHB is damn heavy as it accomodates both a heavy batch of Fqhh and a shearling lining.

 

[Fre H]

Getting a bit crazy here, so much choices. Can't make up my mind about what model to get. Especially wit my long torso, I don't want it to be too short.
I narrowed it down to the following models now, i want them all with the "fur collar" option :

• Aero 50' Half Belt deluxe
• Aero Longshoreman
• Aero Higwayman or Highwayman Premier
• Aero Hercules : is this a long model
• SB Half Belt
• SB Drifter
• SB Roadster

What do you guys think? So difficult...

It's not clear to me what model is a tight fit, boxy, short model, long model....

Thanks
F

 

[jacketjunkie]

Hi! The 50s HB is fairly boxy and not very long, the HWM and Longshoreman are even boxier and just as short. If you don't want a belt-length-jacket but something that goes a few inches past your belt, so basically a hip-length jacket, I would recommend the Long Halfbelt or Hercules which are a few inches longer by design.

As for the lining, I would listen to Carlos and stay away from shearling. It will be so warm you can wear the jacket only within a few weeks of the winter. I would recommend a midweight lining to get most wear out of the jacket. Maybe alpaca if you are a very frosty person.

As for fur collar, go for it! I like them a lot and they bring no disadvantage.

 

[Fre H]

Thx Jacketjunkie.

Just checked some measurements of 2 other leather coats i have.

I am only wearing a short sleeved button shirt underneath.

One is from Paul & Shark and has some filling inside. You can find some pics above (2 first pictures!)

The measurements are :

• Shoulder width A = 22.8"
• Pit to pit B = 26.7"
• Back lenght = 28.1"
• Sleeve lenght = 30.3"
• Jacket size on label is XXL

The other one is from Hugo Boss and is a bit more styled like your jackets and with much less filling inside. (3 last pictures!)

The measurements are :

• Shoulder width A = 20.5" (but a bit to narrow for me it feels) I am only wearing a shirt underneat
• Pit to pit B = 25.6"
• Back lenght = 27.6" (could be a little longer I think?)
• Sleeve lenght = 28" (but feel a bit long)

So both jackets are pretty different, so are the measurements.

The paul & shark one has elastic bands at the sleeves and body so fit's differently, also with the filling inside.

What model(s) do you advise for my built?

Thanks,
F

 

[Harris HTM]

bring no disadvantage.

Up to the point it starts raining or snowing, at least this is my experience with my b3.

What model(s) do you advise for my built?

Maybe you could contact Holly from Aero with your measurements (and not the jackets') and ask her which of the models you like are more appropriate?

 

[jacketjunkie]

Thx Jacketjunkie.
View attachment 136458 View attachment 136459 View attachment 136460 View attachment 136461 View attachment 136462
Just checked some measurements of 2 other leather coats i have.

I am only wearing a short sleeved button shirt underneath.

One is from Paul & Shark and has some filling inside. You can find some pics above (2 first pictures!)

The measurements are :

• Shoulder width A = 22.8"
• Pit to pit B = 26.7"
• Back lenght = 28.1"
• Sleeve lenght = 30.3"
• Jacket size on label is XXL

The other one is from Hugo Boss and is a bit more styled like your jackets and with much less filling inside. (3 last pictures!)

The measurements are :

• Shoulder width A = 20.5" (but a bit to narrow for me it feels) I am only wearing a shirt underneat
• Pit to pit B = 25.6"
• Back lenght = 27.6" (could be a little longer I think?)
• Sleeve lenght = 28" (but feel a bit long)

So both jackets are pretty different, so are the measurements.

The paul & shark one has elastic bands at the sleeves and body so fit's differently, also with the filling inside.

What model(s) do you advise for my built?

Thanks,
F

These jackets are 28" backlength? Damn.. you really do have a long torso, eh?

Imho, there's two routes to go from here, depending on what you're looking for. The more athletic style of jacket or the more relaxed wider and longer kind of jacket.

1. If you want a jacket for an athletic appearance that will flatter your broad shoulders, I would go for a Aero Sheene. Based on the CR pattern, but with a regular shirt style collar. Wide in the shoulders, snug in the body. Check this thread for how the jacket optimally fits:
https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/my-new-aero-sheene.77235/

2. For a more relaxed style, for fall and winter wear, I would advise something with hip-length to make sure the cold doesn't sneak up your waist.. I like the Hercules with those decorative seams accross the front, if that's too much for you, you can go with the more simple Long Halfbelt. I'm no fan of the Northeaster and the Hudson. Proteinnerd owns a very well-fitting Hercules (see here: https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/longer-jackets-thread.85511/#post-2061975) , Sloan owns a Long halfbelt (here: https://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/aero-highwayman-v-long-half-belt.80127/#post-1879440) .
Pictures here:

Ofcourse you can also go the 50s HB or HWM route, but these styles may be too short for your taste, considering the length of the jackets you have shown us. Hope this helps!

 

[Fre H]

I am already in contact with holy. But thought i asked here also....

 

[Harris HTM]

I am already in contact with holy. But thought i asked here also....

Here you will probably hear more opinions that you can handle. It usually ends with you getting confused and ending up with many more jackets that you initially planned for (or can financially afford). It is called the TFL effect.

 

[Fre H]

These jackets are 28" backlength? Damn.. you really do have a long torso, eh?

Yeah, I think I have, my lenght must be come from somewhere

I would go for a Aero Sheene.

I can't find that one on the Aero website...?

Ofcourse you can also go the 50s HB or HWM route, but these styles may be too short for your taste, considering the length of the jackets you have shown us. Hope this helps!

Anybody got the back lenght on a HB deluxe or HWM of a size 46"? That was the size Holly advised me.

Thanks for all answers!

 

[jacketjunkie]

Anybody got the back lenght on a HB deluxe or HWM of a size 46"? That was the size Holly advised me.

Thanks for all answers!

From the stock jackets on their sales page:
#101 - Size 46", Tumbled Black CXFQHH, Black Cotton Drill Lining, Nickel Hardware, Pit to Pit: 27.25", Sleeve: 26", Back: 26.5", Shoulder: 21.25"

If you look at the other available styles there, you'll see there's little variation in backlength, size 44s and size 48s also are around 26" backlength. If the HWM design is what you like best, you can still go for it and ask Aero to add length to it. Keep in mind the HWM is a very boxy design though, 272 PTP means that it is probably about 26" diameter at the bottom hem.

 

[Carlos840]

From the stock jackets on their sales page:
#101 - Size 46", Tumbled Black CXFQHH, Black Cotton Drill Lining, Nickel Hardware, Pit to Pit: 27.25", Sleeve: 26", Back: 26.5", Shoulder: 21.25"

If you look at the other available styles there, you'll see there's little variation in backlength, size 44s and size 48s also are around 26" backlength. If the HWM design is what you like best, you can still go for it and ask Aero to add length to it. Keep in mind the HWM is a very boxy design though, 272 PTP means that it is probably about 26" diameter at the bottom hem.

Considering Fre only has 3.5" drop from chest to waist a HWM will most likely work great on him.
IMO they don't work on V shaped people to well, but they definitely do on big guys!