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Looking for a jet black selvedge denim jacket

blatman23

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50
Hi there!
I am after a pitch-black selvedge denim jacket, perhaps a Type 3 style but also like chore-jacket style.

I looked at Tellason, but that's no longer in stock in my size.
I looked at Rogue with their classic James Bond jacket but in black denim, but the measurements are all messed up on it so it won't fit (seems like the popular opinion about their cuts)
Levi's have a nice non-selvedge jet black type 3 at 80$ but I wanted something made in USA.

Any ideas? Would like to keep it 200-300$ which leaves all the made in japan stuff out.
 

BigPond

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77
I have a couple of the James Bond coats in M and L if you need any measurments.

They use Sulphur dyed denim, which is what you want.

3sixteen have a really nice type 3 using same.


Ironheart have several, too.

Essentially you want the “double black” colorway which is a black warp and weft.
 
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17,494
Location
Chicago
Ironheart makes a never fade superblack type 3. 21oz denim. I have some jeans in it. Basically like running sandpaper over your nuts and thighs. I had the jacket as well but felt it was a little boring as it would never show any fades. I can’t find a pic but there’s also the overdye that’s kind of purple black.
I felt it was too long for the style and this is a fit I can’t live with anymore.
IMG_2113.jpeg

Skin tight and too long.
Edit: black;
IMG_2114.jpeg

These were both a size xxl and fit wildly different.
 
Last edited:

Aloysius

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I felt it was too long for the style and this is a fit I can’t live with anymore.

Yeah unfortunately due to Iron Heart UK strong arming its way from dealer to official monopoly on all sales outside Japan, we’re stuck with the specific fit/aesthetic preferences of Giles and Co (not to mention the price hike). It’s fine with some items but the super long denim jackets are a mess.
 
Messages
17,494
Location
Chicago
Yeah unfortunately due to Iron Heart UK strong arming its way from dealer to official monopoly on all sales outside Japan, we’re stuck with the specific fit/aesthetic preferences of Giles and Co (not to mention the price hike). It’s fine with some items but the super long denim jackets are a mess.
I couldn’t agree more. Even the shortest one I had ended up feeling too long. I’ll concede my preference has wildly shifted to hyper short for the style. Anything over 25” blunt cut at the hem is just too long IMO.
 

BigPond

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77
I couldn’t agree more. Even the shortest one I had ended up feeling too long. I’ll concede my preference has wildly shifted to hyper short for the style. Anything over 25” blunt cut at the hem is just too long IMO.
The modern fit in a type 3
for that last 10 or so years stretched out to 27-28” in a standard size to accommodate low rise jeans.

Now that inseams are trending back to 10.5” standard, jackets seem to be slowly going back to a 25” length.
 

BigPond

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77
27-28" length in t3 is insanity. It is like a mini-dress or something. Disgusting. I am with ton, but being 5' 9", my max length in t3 is 23".
23”? I have a 70’s era rustler that length and it feels almost like a cut off shirt lol.

I’m cool sticking at 25”
 

blatman23

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50
Hmmm you guys are right about the length!
There is this company "Naked and Famous" that have stock of black denim T3 for abut 200... But no waist bands.

Can anyone here show me what black looks like when faded?
 

Edward

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London, UK
Prison Blues make their jackets in the US. They do their Yard Coat in black, with or without blanket lining. prisonblues.net Outstanding quality, better price than Levis - though don't think they're selvedge if that's a dealbreaker. (tbh, I don't much care about selvedge other than t being a nice visual detail on my jeans' cuff - it's not something I've ever found makes a genuine difference as to longevity.)
 

blatman23

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50
@Edward cool! Do You have any measurements on this coat? Someone on the prison blues website comments said he was 6'2 225 and fits a Small, so that means they run ultra big.
 

El Marro

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3,591
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California
I couldn’t agree more. Even the shortest one I had ended up feeling too long. I’ll concede my preference has wildly shifted to hyper short for the style. Anything over 25” blunt cut at the hem is just too long IMO.
I’m 6’1” with a long torso so I am happy with around a 26” back length, I’ve found a couple from IH over the years that fit me just how I like.
For the most part though they are comically long, I particularly remember the Storm Rider they did about five years back with the 29” back length! A few of us ordered the jacket and I think everyone returned it upon receipt because it was damn near duster length.
 
Messages
17,494
Location
Chicago
I’m 6’1” with a long torso so I am happy with around a 26” back length, I’ve found a couple from IH over the years that fit me just how I like.
For the most part though they are comically long, I particularly remember the Storm Rider they did about five years back with the 29” back length! A few of us ordered the jacket and I think everyone returned it upon receipt because it was damn near duster length.
That one was laughable. I started the return instantly after opening the box. I recall even the IH forum fanboys thought it was too long, and they don'y usually bring attention to obvious fails.
 

Edward

Bartender
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25,075
Location
London, UK
@Edward cool! Do You have any measurements on this coat? Someone on the prison blues website comments said he was 6'2 225 and fits a Small, so that means they run ultra big.

Afraid I don't have one of the jackets. I've owned three pairs of the jeans, been very happy with all of them. Those tend to be true to size in my experience. In terms of letter sizes for jackets, I often find that US labels are one size up from UK - i.e. an XXL here would be a USXL typically. Probably best to email their customer service - they really could do with a size chart on the page.
 

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