Long leather greatcoats

[gimmesomeshelte]

All-

I’m wondering how common long leather greatcoats were during the early/mid twentieth century. We’ve all seen the images of German military personnel wearing them during WWII, but I’m wondering how common they were outside of that period/location. Maybe I’m wrong, but they don’t seem very American to me.

Thanks for your time.

Paul Vickerman

PS. If you want to see a really neat one, rent Gosford Park. It’s a very short scene, but one of the characters is wearing a very attractive russet colored motoring coat.

 

[Marc Chevalier]

They were less common in the U.S. than in Europe, I think.
Pre- and postwar Germany produced them by the ton. They were popular with winter motorcyclists.

 

[scotrace]

In Fact,

Have I seen these referred to as "Gestapo Coats?"

 

[Vladimir Berkov]

I have seen a lot of pictures of German civilians wearing them during the 30s, they seemed pretty popular there. I have a pic of a young German civilian wearing one of those green velvety Alpine hats along with a belted long leather overcoat. They were also pretty common in Russia both in the military and among the civilians who could obtain one apparently.

 

[Mycroft]

Popular with early Soviet intellgence forces and police like the Checka, also early German aviators and some other too.

 

[John in Covina]

reproduction of military

http://www.sportsmansguide.com/cb/cb.asp?a=243493

they have some other german leather coats now and again, plus some interesting surplus from all over die ganzer Welt!

 

[geo]

The signature Gestapo look: black leather trench coat and a snap brim fedora.

 

[BellyTank]

Loads of them on eBay in Germany-
www.ebay.de

Search with "Ledermantel"

The USN used a heavy leather coat (deck and aviation)with a mouton collar thru to the '50s.

B
T

 

[Marc Chevalier]

Two long leather greatcoats in action, stomping all over Europe.

.

 

[nightandthecity]

In WW1 aviators of all nations sometimes wore long leather coats. But post-war the style seems to have caught on more selectively.

They seem to have been popular throughout central and eastern Europe, into Russia, up to Belgium and Holland.....from the 1920s and into the 1950s.

I've seen them in a 1930s/40s French context but my impression is they were never really popular in France/Spain, and here in the UK they seem to have been very rare indeed. In France, Spain and Britain leather wearers preferred either waist length (like your A2 etc) or the belted 3/4 length jacket (like the modern Aero "barnstormer").

In this respect western European and British taste seems to have been closer to that of the US, though as BT mentions the USN did have a long goatskin "transport coat" that is very mitteleuropa. It even had a fur collar, something that was quite common on European overcoats of all materials, but rare in Britain and - I think - also rare in the US.

 

[BellyTank]

A small aside...

Night', it would be nice to see some of your English leather jackets- if you have some to show- I have never really got a solid impression of English leather jacket styles from the '30s-'40s.

Speaking of German leather- I have a long, brown, DB, vintage German leather coat(with a strange eagle stamp in the lining), also two of the 3/4, belted style and a nice short and trim, double breasted (button-thru) style, which is similar to the so-called early-war privately procured Luftwaffe Pilot jackets- a la Hans J. Marseille (it has a bit of the HJ and BDM about it too).
I like that one a lot.

Let's see some if you have the time and ability- I have no camera for a couple more weeks.

Cheers,

B
T

 

[nightandthecity]

I think I have around six or seven English leather jackets at the moment...I've had more through my hands over the years. I'll try and get some pics up but time is a problem at the moment (come to think of it...what am I doing here right now? Stop it! Go work!)

Using US jackets as a reference point - they incline to the A2 pattern. They tend to favour patch pockets rather than slash, but with an elasticated or leather waist rather than knitted, and with button or snap cuffs. They definitely favour lighter and softer leathers than US jackets - calf, kid, cape etc.

I'll try and sort some pix

 

[BellyTank]

I've seen light-weight 'Golf Jacket' styles in old Army and Navy catalogues but not a lot else.

B
T

 

[Bart]

Leather Greatcoats

The two "Gerrys" in their leathers look pleased with themselves. Luftwaffe, probably, sporting jackboots as well to stomp all over Europe. Could they also be wearing pencil mustaches? (former topic)

I have a long Cortefiel from the late '60's that I won't part with. I'd also like to get one of those leather greatcoats the Navy wore...never saw one.

What do you gents think of the look now? Think it could come back over here?

Bart

 

["Doc" Devereux]

I'd be inclined to guess that the chap on the right of that photograph is Adolf Galland.

I've been wearing leather greatcoats since I was eighteen, first as a fashion thing and very quickly because of their practicality. Just think how smart and practical a leather jacket can be and you'll see why I became so fond of them. I wear mine with a snap-brim and a pencil moustache, yet the most frequent comments I get from the local wits seem to revolve around 'The Matrix' rather than anything political. I can live with that...

 

[Tony in Tarzana]

[QUOTE="Doc" Devereux]I'd be inclined to guess that the chap on the right of that photograph is Adolf Galland.[/QUOTE]

Yep, looks like him. "Give me a squadron of Spitfires!"

 

[matei]

My dad picked up a blue (?) leather greatcoat when he visited London in '72. It weighs a ton and if it were black it'd look the part. Sadly it is blue and not so menacing as black. If I can dig it up I would consider dying it, as it is really well made.

My father-in-law had a cool leather overcoat, slightly smaller lapels than the German ones. They were popular with well-connected Party folks in his generation in Eastern Europe. If I remember correctly it is about knee length. You still see men wearing them, they are well made.

If you want that look, an Astrahan or Nutria hat is a must. Large, squareish, thick-framed specs are an option as well.

As a skydiver/aviator, my father-in-law also had a really neat flight jacket, about 3/4 length, with a strange collar. One side was much longer than the other (to wrap around the neck?). We saved it after he passed away, as we were going to donate it to the Aviation Museum in Bucharest for part of his display. It is bit too small for me to wear though...

 

[HungaryTom]

All-

I’m wondering how common long leather greatcoats were during the early/mid twentieth century. We’ve all seen the images of German military personnel wearing them during WWII, but I’m wondering how common they were outside of that period/location. Maybe I’m wrong, but they don’t seem very American to me.

Thanks for your time.

Paul Vickerman

PS. If you want to see a really neat one, rent Gosford Park. It’s a very short scene, but one of the characters is wearing a very attractive russet colored motoring coat.

Dear Paul,

Leather greatcoats were very popular in Central and Eastern Europe in the early 20th Century, yes! Raw material was the heavy and thick horsehide or steer-hide processed with chrome-salt tanning (a German invention from the mid-19th century shortening traditional tanning process from months to a few days) designed to last a life-time. The resulting coats were well-made, expensive and rather repaired than trown out. In short, these leather greatcoats became popular as kind of undestroyabe outdoors wear linked with motor sports. Drivers of the first automobiles, motorcycles, and aeroplanes did wear them.

Later, wearers with outdoor activities of the other kind followed. What they killed was not only image of the distinctive leather greatcoats.

In both Communism and Nazism whoever had the right to wear leather greatcoats (not aviator jackets) as uniform showed to all that the holder had a certain rank (senior officer, political commissar, Military Policeman) or even worse, belonged to a special unit or secret police. In terror systems this means the holder RULES OVER LIFE AND DEATH

This is how shiny leather trench coats – originally outdoor menswear- became abused as a symbol of 20th century terror still sending those subliminal messages.

 

[Marc Chevalier]

HungaryTom's account is absolutely right on. Thanks, Tom!


Even today, flea markets throughout continental Europe are FULL of these vintage leather/horsehide coats. Millions were made between the world wars (and even after), and quite a few have survived. Tough things!


That said, they've never done a good job of shielding me from the cold. Wool seems to be more effective.


.

 

[Marc Chevalier]

Incidentally ... in postwar Middle and Eastern Europe, many of these coats were made in light grey, medium grey, dark blue, tan, olive, and dark green. Actually, dark green was a very popular color for European leather coats even before the war.

.