Want to buy or sell something? Check the classifieds
  • The Fedora Lounge is supported in part by commission earning affiliate links sitewide. Please support us by using them. You may learn more here.

Leather Johnson Vest

Quart Bernstein

New in Town
Messages
3
Location
PNW
I have collected samples from several place's through the past few month's, and read about every forum post on Google on the subject - many multiple times. In short, I have more questions than answers. I've asked each of the major maker's at least one question, and spoken to Alan at JL pretty extensively.

I decided to go with Johnson Leather's for a vest and a car/lounge coat.

For both i've narrowed it down to:
4.25 Bison (The 3.5 was FAR too stretchy)
3.5/4.25 Unfinished Cowhide
3.5 Goat (Right now has 3.25 on hand)
Possibly Elk? (I really know nothing about elk's use in a jacket)

Some days I am deadset on going with the cowhide, while others I want the supple combo of Bison/Goat. More often than not, it is whether to go with or against cowhide though. Cowhide has been time tested, it will not stretch out and lose form, I can be hard with it (and i'm very rough on my clothing (hunting, camping... I manage to tear through clothing). On the other hand, while I see fans of horsehide and goat, there does not seem to be many cheering for cowhide/steerhide's unless it is for its use with a motorcycle. I get the picture that it's uncomfortable and never forms to work with the body, patently squeaky, and cardboardlike.
Meanwhile, Goat seems like the best option. Other than a goat vest I once owned, my experience is limited. The Langlitz vest, while not made for me, slightly ballooned at my chest/abdomen and would look the opposite of boxy on me. I can't say if this was because of the cut, or the leather though. I read two negative accounts stating that once the top coat was gone that the inner layer could never be buffed out, and (from what I remember) that is where the durability was at.
It first discounted the bison for the way the 3.5 oz version stretched, but it seems to encompass aspects of both the cowhide and goat. If I did get something goat, it would pair well with it. The 4.25 oz also doesn't seem to be too much heavier, although I have no experience with this difference as a vest or full on jacket.
I know nothing about Elk's application here. I only just read another person commenting about JL's use of it.

Comfort and function is the most important to me. I do not mind if it take's 1-5 years for it to break-in ultimately. As long as someday it will work with the body while also being durable. Weight is not a huge issue if it is distributed, and i'm trying to find the best leather that will conform (eventually) and be durable for the task at hand. And while i've only seen this in certain top coats of corrected motorcycle cowhide, I would prefer something that isn't squeaky loud when it is broken in. I will be using a wool shirt underneath for inclement weather.

Since the coat is longer, I figure it would be wise to go with something lighter here (no 4.25 oz cowhide).

As for the vest, I figure I can go with a thicker leather, although I may be wrong here. Either the weight of heavy leather will distribute better on a vest (neither long nor uses arms), or the leather assists in riding up the waist, and boxing the shoulders in - you tell me.
I haven't seen any information about leather recommendations for a vest. While going from backpack's, messenger's, pants, and other odd idea's, the vest has become my favorite option for pockets, and that's its primary function. I think i'd like a boxy fit for a vest. I realize a big part goes to how it is cut and measured, but I was overall looking for something boxy (is this the right word. Standard?). I would like it to mold over time.

TL;DR
Notes/Questions:
*I am looking for JL specific leather opinion, particularly for their cowhide instead of one of the million other tannage, coated variations of it. The more mystical elk, and sometimes bison and elk here are less important whether it is what Johnson uses. Comparisons between leather mentioned would be helpful as well.
*Opinion's on a recommended leather for a longer coat
*Opinion's on a recommended leather for a vest, as well as any idea toward their fit/cut
*If anyone wants to take a shot at demystifying cowhide, that has a preference toward it.
*Any tips on having a vest fit better (changing the angle of the shoulder, lessening the shoulder width, side-laces, etc).

Thank you for lessening my chances of unnecessary risk taking in using leather!!!
 

nick123

I'll Lock Up
Messages
6,371
Location
California
Goat is comfortable. I handled the Johnson bison, which I think is Horween. I thought the bison looked great (the medium brown colored one). I have a jacket in 3 oz overdye cowhide from them. All good leathers. For a vest, I'm not sure which would be the most practical.
 
Messages
15,563
Location
East Central Indiana
A lot of specific questions there...but my advice would be to go with a 3.5 or less weight hide for the vest and the car coat. I have several leather vests and just prefer something not so thick in a vest or longer coat although I do like a heavier hide in a shorter jacket. There's nothing wrong with a good cowhide or goat. I think that I might choose the lighter weight cowhide for the vest and lighter weight goat for the car coat. Alan should be able to pattern and nicely fit a vest for you. I see you are in the PNW. Are you close enough to Johnson leathers for a try on? That would be the best bet,IMO.
HD
 

Quart Bernstein

New in Town
Messages
3
Location
PNW
Alright, I will toss out the 4.25 cowhide, unless I use it for a shorter coat. You guys are right though, as it's a tough little strip of leather (4.25 cowhide). I'm still on the fence about the 4.25 oz bison though. The 3.5 bison stretched so much that the lettering on the back of the sample looked like groovy scooby doo lettering at the end.
I agree toward the suppleness of the 3 oz cowhide as well. It has definitely amazed me with its character.

I have tried to schedule a visit (serious time constraints). It would be about a ten hour trip. I figured I would if it popped up before I had the final design ideas down, then i'd see if I could go down there.

Thank you so much for your input, in so far.
 

Seb Lucas

I'll Lock Up
Messages
7,562
Location
Australia
I have a JL 3 oz cow half-belt by them which I almost never wear as I find the weight too cumbersome as a daily wearer. Yeah, it's soft. Yeah, it's got character. But I prefer lighter 2oz or 2.5 oz leather. I have JL's standard goat which is 2.2 oz. That's almost perfect. I also have a JL leather car coat in 2.5oz cowhide. I wear this regularly. The longer the jacket the lighter the leather needs to be for me.
 

Vespizzare

A-List Customer
Messages
445
Location
Santa Monica, CA
I have two JL jackets so I know something about it. My advice is to not over-think it and, when necessary, just ask Alan what he would recommend and go with it. End of story.
 

Mark Ricketts

One of the Regulars
Messages
113
Location
ontario
If you are using it for hunting and camping, you might want to consider a jerkin rather than a vest. Jerkins have a loose cut and are designed to fit over your coat, not under it. I have one from Moss Leather that is an absolute Godsend for working on the farm. I am sure Alan could make one equally as practical.
Again, if you will be camping, be wary of naked cowhide, as it has a reputation of shrinking in the wet.
 

Quart Bernstein

New in Town
Messages
3
Location
PNW
Thought about a jerkin (exact same WW1 British Replica), and may include one at some point after the vest.
It tinkles about every other day here. I'll test the cow sample, measure it, and see if I can get it to shrink. (May try on the others as well, although I seem to have lost the goat last night...)

Unless someone has found hard use with the elk or the bison as a jacket or vest (please share if so), i'll probably take them off the list.
 

Forum statistics

Threads
109,310
Messages
3,078,590
Members
54,243
Latest member
seeldoger47
Top