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Jacket too small?

GBR

One of the Regulars
Messages
288
Location
UK
thunderw21 said:
I finally got around to letting down the arms. I think it looks much better. Man, I love these 1930s-style jackets from the 1970s!



All pockets have bellows.
1970ssportscoat003.jpg


it still looks hideously short at the front - is there some discrepancy front to rear?
 

thunderw21

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,044
Location
Iowa
GBR said:
it still looks hideously short at the front - is there some discrepancy front to rear?

Nope, it's actually slightly longer in front.

I just compared it to a late-1930s belted back jacket and they are the same length. The belts are the same height and the button stances of both jackets are the same. They are nearly copies of one another, just 35 years apart. They are cut the same.

The style back then was short, perhaps it just looks strange to our eyes? [huh]


Edit:Here's the 1930s jacket to compare.
me040-1.jpg


1970ssportscoat001.jpg
 

Bourbon Guy

A-List Customer
Messages
374
Location
Chicago
It's too small. Looks like you got your growth spurt and outgrew your little boy's jacket. Get a man's jacket that fits you.
 

thunderw21

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,044
Location
Iowa
Meh, I think I'll keep it.

I've compared it to my other vintage pieces and found that it is either equal or of similar length to vintage suit jackets ('30s and early '40s). The vintage look in suit jackets is short and that's what I'm trying to emulate: the vintage look.

Just look at the two pics I posted above. The same cut and length on the two jackets. Short was (and is again becoming) the style. It's not absurdly short IMO now that the sleeves are lengthened.
 

dakotanorth

Practically Family
Messages
543
Location
Camarillo, CA
The fit of the jacket?

Ok, let's be empirical about this:
Yes, both jackets fit you the same way, so either, they both fit correctly, or they both fit INcorrectly.
How tall are you? You may be wearing a Regular though you should wear a tall/long.
 

thunderw21

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,044
Location
Iowa
dakotanorth said:
Ok, let's be empirical about this:
Yes, both jackets fit you the same way, so either, they both fit correctly, or they both fit INcorrectly.
How tall are you? You may be wearing a Regular though you should wear a tall/long.

Yes, I thought about that. I'm 6" 2', not super tall by any means. And while my arms are longer than most, my torso is not. My height is in my legs.

If we look through photos and illustrations from the Golden Era and we will see varying lengths and fits, including the 'short look'. It emphasizes the legs, making them look longer (or tries to, anyways).

Mad Dog Gang, 1920s
1920sMadDogCollmob.jpg


1933 suit worn by a modern style writer
1933suit.jpg


Notice the lengths of the jackets according to the wearer's arm.
AA188.jpg


AA038.jpg


AA051-2.jpg


AA086-1.jpg


And while short was not the only style, it was a major one back in the 1920s-1940s.
 

Bourbon Guy

A-List Customer
Messages
374
Location
Chicago
In the real photo of real guys, some fit and some don't. Just because you have an old photo of guys in ill-fitting suits doesn't mean you should emulate them. Old bad is old bad.

On your photo of your tweed, the waist is too tight; the button pulls and ruins the line.
 

reetpleat

Call Me a Cab
Messages
2,681
Location
Seattle
thunderw21 said:
Nope, it's actually slightly longer in front.

I just compared it to a late-1930s belted back jacket and they are the same length. The belts are the same height and the button stances of both jackets are the same. They are nearly copies of one another, just 35 years apart. They are cut the same.

The style back then was short, perhaps it just looks strange to our eyes? [huh]


Edit:Here's the 1930s jacket to compare.
me040-1.jpg


1970ssportscoat001.jpg


I would have to say, to my eye, while in theory, the two jackets are the same cut, they are not. There is a bit of difference that makes the vintage one look better short. maybe it is partly the slacks and colors too. But you will notice the vintage one fits a lot trimmer and accentuates the waists, and hugs the hips.
 

Bourbon Guy

A-List Customer
Messages
374
Location
Chicago
reetpleat said:
I would have to say, to my eye, while in theory, the two jackets are the same cut, they are not. There is a bit of difference that makes the vintage one look better short. maybe it is partly the slacks and colors too. But you will notice the vintage one fits a lot trimmer and accentuates the waists, and hugs the hips.

Yes. Better eye than I have. The blue has broader shoulders and you look comfortable in it. You look constricted in the tweed, and I'll bet it feels that way as well.
 

thunderw21

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,044
Location
Iowa
Here is a comparison. I only have the blue jacket to compare with because it's my only vintage belted back. Even so, I come to the conclusion that this 1970s jacket is a good emulation of a vintage belted back. It's not perfect, doesn't compare to vintage tailoring but it's better than most belted backs made today. Frankly, very little can compare to vintage.

The two jackets shown have very similar characteristics: same button stance, same length, belts are at the same height, pockets in the same positions.

jacketcomparison001.jpg


jacketcomparison002.jpg


And it fits fine, as I stated in my first post. If it did not I would not wear it. Nothing worse than putting up with clothing that does not fit comfortably. This jacket is comfortable throughout: in the chest, the waist and the arms.

It also covers the rump, as Tomasso emphasized and is not too short according to vintage standards, which is what I am shooting for. And just to be sure:

1930ssuits.jpg


KingKong1933.jpg



I'm happy with it now after hearing people's thoughts and researching further.

Cheers!
 

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