J Powell Bi-Swing Jkt

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http://jlpowellusa.com/product/54-Haberdashery/259-J-L-Powell-The-Roosevelt-Jacket.html

 

[Feraud]

I saw a similar jacket from Ralph Lauren. Same hefty price tag too.

 

[Longshanks]

I saw a similar jacket from Ralph Lauren. Same hefty price tag too.

Thread hijack comment about bi-swing back fit: when wearing the jacket normally, is the bi-swing back really supposed to bulge out like that? I have a Taylor Leatherware vintage where the shoulders bulge like that and I've always thought it might look odd.
Any ideas?
Ta much

 

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The RL ones I saw in Sydney had very tight/narrow Italian cut. Even the 46 I tried was like a tight 44.

 

[Feraud]

Thread hijack comment about bi-swing back fit: when wearing the jacket normally, is the bi-swing back really supposed to bulge out like that? I have a Taylor Leatherware vintage where the shoulders bulge like that and I've always thought it might look odd.
Any ideas?
Ta much

The back pleat should not bulge out like that unless your body is doing some movement that should require the pleat to expand.
The jacket I tried on was cut on the narrow side for its stated size.
I would need to go up at least one size for it to sit correctly.

 

[H.Johnson]

I think the problem with that particular jacket is that the half-belt - where the bi-swing pleats end - is too low. At the 'modern waist' in fact. It is therefore exagerating the effect of a relatively small movement of the arms in a forward direction. I think you would find that a higher (or 'vintage') waist would absorb the motion of the arms and the opening of the pleat would not be so obvious.

Going up a chest/waist size to gain freedom of movement in my opinion cancels out the whole point of having an 'action back', which is to allow a trim fit with free arm/shoulder movement.

Another example, perhaps, of mixing 'vintage' and 'modern' styling to the detriment of both. It's a pity, because it seems a nice jacket otherwise.

 

[Matt Deckard]

I think it looks pretty darn cool, especially with those Chuck Taylor Premiere's you're wearing.

How is it lined?

 

[Feraud]

I think the problem with that particular jacket is that the half-belt - where the bi-swing pleats end - is too low. At the 'modern waist' in fact. It is therefore exagerating the effect of a relatively small movement of the arms in a forward direction. I think you would find that a higher (or 'vintage') waist would absorb the motion of the arms and the opening of the pleat would not be so obvious.

Going up a chest/waist size to gain freedom of movement in my opinion cancels out the whole point of having an 'action back', which is to allow a trim fit with free arm/shoulder movement.

Another example, perhaps, of mixing 'vintage' and 'modern' styling to the detriment of both. It's a pity, because it seems a nice jacket otherwise.

Do you think buying a short size would correct this?

How is it lined?

ummmm, I forgot! lol

I was never a big fan of leather elbow patches but like the leather cuff detail.

 

[H.Johnson]

Do you think buying a short size would correct this?

No, I don't. It might 'lift' the waist an inch or so, but the false half belt would still be proportionately low (and the pleats long) and the sleeves might be too short. The bi-swing pleat would still be too long to articulate properly.

This example is just not cut like a traditional half-Norfolk jacket, which IMO is what creates the problem with the articulation and the gaping pleat In your photographs the false belt is level with the top of the pocket flap. Unless these are intended to be exceptionally high pockets that's about 2 inches too low. Waist-high pockets? Not in a 'vintage' cut, I think. A small detail, but it makes all the difference to how a jacket fits.

 

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Belt Backs

I would buy a proper Norfolk from an outfit like cityvintage when it came up on the 'Bay or get MTM thr Matt D or Magnoli FWIW.

 

[Micawber]

Alternatively buy a sporting jacket from one of the many outlets that cater for the shooting fraternity here in the UK.

 

[H.Johnson]

Compare the position of the false belt on this example - the articulation would almost certainly be better than the RL jacket

 

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Landsend Thornproof Bi-Swing Jacket

The other alternative is this...http://www.landsend.com/pp/3buttonT...U&CM_MERCH=IDX_00001__0000000028&origin=index

 

[H.Johnson]

It's a personal choice, obviously, but the phrase, 'Traditional Fit: classic and roomy' in the blurb doesn't bode well. A 'traditional' country jacket should not be 'roomy'.