Sorry: the "rake" is the amount of slope front to back you put in the crown. European style hats don't seem to have much rake, because most of the time they have a centre crease and side pinches. If you put in other creases, you can choose to make the back of the crown lower and create more "rake". It's a matter of personal taste.
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KarlCrow
One Too Many
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thanks, i had a suspicion it might be that, seems to suit my crown, & the waybi wear them, or at least I think it does, as i wear more hats a higher rear crown might start appealing to me. I think it's what I think a hat is and what a hat is are two different things (-:
This one is from the group of hats from the Italian hat exchange program I have with Daniele. It is in fact the only one in that group that doesn't fit me and even with some cork strips between the sweat looks out of place on my head. Pity, because it is a superb hat in a very nice light brown colour.
Panizza Nocciola in a size 58 (that is an educated guess, because there is no size label). Raw edge brim at 6 cm and crown at 10 cm at the pinch. Beautiful liner with the yellow covering of the crown patch. My guess is mid fifties to mid sixties. There are some small moth nibbles at the underside of the brim, but nothing disturbing and these could be easily sanded out I think.
Looks like I trying to sell it, doesn't it? Well, it does need a good home, so if you have worthy hat in a small size (57 Italian hat or 56 any other) you want to trade just PM me
.
Panizza Nocciola in a size 58 (that is an educated guess, because there is no size label). Raw edge brim at 6 cm and crown at 10 cm at the pinch. Beautiful liner with the yellow covering of the crown patch. My guess is mid fifties to mid sixties. There are some small moth nibbles at the underside of the brim, but nothing disturbing and these could be easily sanded out I think.
Looks like I trying to sell it, doesn't it? Well, it does need a good home, so if you have worthy hat in a small size (57 Italian hat or 56 any other) you want to trade just PM me
.
Picked this nice little hat up when I was in Rome last weekend. Caught my eye because it was a Barbisio and a nice light colour. Barbisio Ratiné in a natural colour. Overwelt triple stitched edge at 5,3 cm and crown at 10cm and contrasting ribbon. Qualita extra extra. Ratiné is a term used for woollen fabric with a rough nap, which is what this hat basically is: a woollen hat with a rough nap. Very soft felt though with a nice shape. When woolfelt hats are this nice, who can argue? A bit of an odd thing is that there seems to be an extra layer of cloth (almost feels like a folded grosgrain ribbon) between the felt and the sweatband (see last photo).
This hat I haven't posted before. It belongs to the first group of the European hat exchange program Daniele and I have going. De Monti in grey. Size 56, brim at 6 cm and crown at 10 at the pinch. Very nice soft felt. No label behind the sweat so not much to go on.
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Nice looking, interesting texture on the sweat. I like it, is it 60s?
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Stefan, Super! Daniele has some information on the De Monti.
Daniele Tanto
I'll Lock Up
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- 4,220
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- Verona - Italia
DeMonti was an hats shop in Omegna, a small down near the Lago Maggiore. I found a citation in a book of memories wrote by the daughter of the owner. They were not producer, but they supplied hats to brand from the numerous hats factories of that corner of Italy. The Stefan hat is probably a Albertini production, they were in Intra before to merged in Panizza. It is very similar to one I let go in the passed weeks for shape, color and lining color. I was very tempted to get the Albertini but the moths made a perfect work to cease my will
Inviato dal mio m2 utilizzando Tapatalk
Inviato dal mio m2 utilizzando Tapatalk
Sorry guys for not replying to your posts before. This thread somehow flew under my radar for a while (and it deserves better). I think the questions and comments haven been addressed, so I will get on with the current situation. The second run of the Holland-Italy hat exchange program has just been completed. Many thanks again to Daniele who tries to keep an eye out for the most interesting hats and comes up trumps. I still owe you the hats that were part of this exchange (still need to take pictures of some of them). Here's the first one that went south. Extra Extra Vanzina in the colour Rodio in size 6 1/2, raw edge brim at 5cm, crown at 11cm at the pinch. Great colourful lining. Sold by Thorvald Peterson of Göteborg. Interesting is of course the use of the colour name, which is the same as the Borsalino colour name. Daniele provided the information that Borsalino did the styling for the Vanzina hats at some point in the seventies and in time took over completely.
Second one that went south in the hat-exchange progam Holland-Italy. Panizza Super in (very) dark blue, size 59. Bound edge at 5,3 cm and crown at 11 cm at the pinch. Nice red liner and very nice felt. This one is 1960's. The shop Lenz Hüte und Mützen still exists today.
I was on the receiving end of this one and I must say I'm delighted with it. it's just a fantastic hat. Cervo super princeps chamois in grey (with a green hue to it) called Cardiff on the label, size 56. Raw edge brim at 6,5cm and crown 9,5cm at the pinch. Fantastic finishing and craftsmanship from Italy. 1950's.
KarlCrow
One Too Many
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gorgeous
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- 12,384
- Location
- Albany Oregon
very nice. Princeps(?) I'll have to look that one up.
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- Location
- Albany Oregon
"Princeps (plural: principes) is a Latin word meaning "first in time or order; the first, foremost, chief, the most eminent, distinguished, or noble; the first man, first person." This article is devoted to a number of specific historical meanings the word took, in approximate historical order."
Ok, that fits this hat just right!
Ok, that fits this hat just right!
Karl, Mike thank you. Hadn't even thought of looking the word up. I took it as meaning "prince". Good to know and it does fit. Thanks for looking it up.
Here's a bit of an oddity. Cappello Vaso, fedora in brown (palissandro according to the label), size 56, Bound brim at 6cm and crown 9cm at the pinch. Cappello Vaso sounds Italian and the hat is indeed of Italian make. The name however is a word play on the name of the shop it was made for, namely J. Pul of Amsterdam. "Pul" translates as vase or "vaso" in Italian. The hat is of high quality and the finishing is high standard as well. I suspect it was made by Cervo, but maybe other can judge better by the label. As a bonus: this hat I can actually wear brim up without looking like a boob. Bob Roberts is able to wear all of his hats brim up with panache but he seems to be gifted in that way. I found a few bits an pieces of interesting information about the hatter J. Pul (a postcard reminding Borsalino to complete an order and an ashtray for forty years in the business).
Daniele Tanto
I'll Lock Up
- Messages
- 4,220
- Location
- Verona - Italia
Very beautiful made Italian hat!
Complimenti Stefan
I took this morning a long survey on the paper labels of Italian hats I have of the same period to see the similarity with others.
The best match is with Barbisio, not for the label but for finish and shape, even if "Qualità Extra Superiore" is a Borsalino "trademark" along with "Antica casa"
Maybe J. Pul of Amsterdam had some Borsalino made for his shop as "premium" for his high sell of "Antica Casa di Giuseppe Borsalino"
Remember Stefan those were years of the economic battles between the Italians hatters to have more power on the European market.
Do you see Borsalino allow to use some of their "trademarks" to "enemies" to made hats for a EU market?
Daniele, thanks for the comments and the extra information provided. It is an expertly made hat and shows the craftsmanship of the Italian hatters very well.Very beautiful made Italian hat!
Complimenti Stefan
I took this morning a long survey on the paper labels of Italian hats I have of the same period to see the similarity with others.
The best match is with Barbisio, not for the label but for finish and shape, even if "Qualità Extra Superiore" is a Borsalino "trademark" along with "Antica casa"
Maybe J. Pul of Amsterdam had some Borsalino made for his shop as "premium" for his high sell of "Antica Casa di Giuseppe Borsalino"
Remember Stefan those were years of the economic battles between the Italians hatters to have more power on the European market.
Do you see Borsalino allow to use some of their "trademarks" to "enemies" to made hats for a EU market?
Daniele Tanto
I'll Lock Up
- Messages
- 4,220
- Location
- Verona - Italia
Vanzina Extra Extra Grigio - Color Uranio
I came accross, during summer time, some hats produced in the Cappellificio Vanzina of Pavia ( Milan ) sold in Genova
Difficult to say if they are produced before or after Borsalino bought the Vanzina facility. I think this hat was produced after the Borsalino take over
There is no Borsalino sign, but my conviction is stated above
Vanzina made in deep grey fur felt
Size is 57 cm. (7 1/8 US) Crown is 12 cm (4.75 inches) overwelted brim is 5 cm. (2 inches)
The fur felt is medium soft, pliable and in a special short hair finish
Linen in white with an excellent sweatband
Vanzina have its own mark and not the Borsalino marks
The wonderful deep grey felt is completed with a fantastic ribbon in satin 4.5 cm with an elegant bow
The fur felt in a short hair finish has a soft touch
New old stock. A perfect hat from another hats shop closed in Genova
I came accross, during summer time, some hats produced in the Cappellificio Vanzina of Pavia ( Milan ) sold in Genova
Difficult to say if they are produced before or after Borsalino bought the Vanzina facility. I think this hat was produced after the Borsalino take over
There is no Borsalino sign, but my conviction is stated above
Vanzina made in deep grey fur felt
Size is 57 cm. (7 1/8 US) Crown is 12 cm (4.75 inches) overwelted brim is 5 cm. (2 inches)
The fur felt is medium soft, pliable and in a special short hair finish
Linen in white with an excellent sweatband
Vanzina have its own mark and not the Borsalino marks
The wonderful deep grey felt is completed with a fantastic ribbon in satin 4.5 cm with an elegant bow
The fur felt in a short hair finish has a soft touch
New old stock. A perfect hat from another hats shop closed in Genova
