IRVIN NUTS?...the ULTIMATE thread for those who love 'em!

[jamespibworth@n]

Replacing the main zip took about half and hour, pinning it first and then stitching it on my sewing machine. I am still thinking whether to fill the stitch holes left by the patches with leather glue or leave them. I also fitted correct IAC collar rings from a wrecked jacket.

Hi Andrew I am curious, (I was once a tailor in another life).

When we replaced zips on leather jackets we used ‘walking feet’ and often ‘half feet’ so as to stitch close to the teeth.

Do you have such devices or did you manage on a standard machine?

James

 

[aswatland]

Hi Andrew I am curious, (I was once a tailor in another life).

When we replaced zips on leather jackets we used ‘walking feet’ and often ‘half feet’ so as to stitch close to the teeth.

Do you have such devices or did you manage on a standard machine?

James

James I use a standard machine and am able to follow the original stitching. My machine does have a zipper attachment, which I must confess I have yet to use!

 

[Alan Eardley]

The use of a 'walking foot' is standard practice when stitching highly finished leather to avoid marking the surface. It isn't usually necessary on the tough leather strips that join the panels on a typical flying jacket. Equally, as you say, a 'half foot' is useful when stitching near to a zip. However. the zips on an 'Irvin' (and most British jackets, come to that) are usually installed with a quarter inch of tape showing on each side, so stitching near to the teeth doesn't usually arise. The zippers on US jackets are almost 'buried' by comparison.

Alan

James I use a standard machine and am able to follow the original stitching. My machine does have a zipper attachment, which I must confess I have yet to use!

 

[jamespibworth@n]

I'm impressed Alan,

You know your stuff old boy.

Cheerio.

 

[aswatland]

Early Air Chute Irvin

I bought this jacket for a lowish price on Ebay recently. The leather was very dry and tender on the shoulders. Pecards has done wonders with it. I replaced some of the sheepskin on the shoulders with 1930s sheepskin from a wrecked pair of flying trousers. I used original leather seam tapes to complete the job. The "V" shape below the neck is however original to the jacket.

This appears to be an early Irvin, probably dating from the period 1933-5, although Alan may be able to be more precise. It is made of the characteristic uniform, close pile fleece. The main zip slider bucket is marked "Dot made in England" and the slider/pull is the single trunnion brass Dot variety which is found on the earliest Irvins. One sleeve zip has a double trunnion nickle Dot with the mottled/horizontal lined pull and the other is a cast double trunnion slider with the brass pull with the usual "Dot made in England" stamping. All the zips are original to the jacket.

Some of the seams were re-stritched by the previous owner using black thread and I will re-do them eventually. There is the normal wear to the cuffs. The jacket would equate to a wartime size 5.

Although it can be worn, it is for display like my four panel early IAC jacket.
Here are some pics.

 

[jamespibworth@n]

Lovely old jacket!

Very very similar to my pre-war Irvin.

Interesting about the different sleeve zips. It looks from the stitching on the last photo that the unmarked zip (same as on my jacket) has been changed?
Maybe for a 35/36 zip?

Wonder why the V panels are there? Interesting.

James.

 

[aswatland]

Lovely old jacket!

Very very similar to my pre-war Irvin.

Interesting about the different sleeve zips. It looks from the stitching on the last photo that the unmarked zip (same as on my jacket) has been changed?
Maybe for a 35/36 zip?

Wonder why the V panels are there? Interesting.

James.

James you may be right about the sleeve zips, yet the extra stitching is where the previous owned had it re-stitched-badly i'm sorry to say!

I have never seen a V panel in such an early jacket. Possibly done to give it more strength in the upper back area or a creative way of maximising the fleece! Alan may have a more plausible suggestion though.

 

[boyorastroboy]

They are still on the website and in the latest paper catalogue. I've examined one closely and I don't see why they wouldn't replace an 'Irvin' sleeve zip. It would need adjusting for length (as you know, not critical on an 'Irvin') and the tape is different, but it's close enough for everyday wear, as they say...

Sorry, total novice here, what website is this? Is this the Harlan Glenn mentioned previously? SoF?

 

[aswatland]

Thinking again James, the cast zip slider may have been a later addition. Perhaps the original lost its pull. They can be removed by taking off the brass clip at the top of the zip. I have done this sometimes to change a slider.

 

[Smithy]

Happy New Year to all the Irvin lovers here. Just got back from 2 weeks up inside the Arctic Circle where my Irvin was invaluable and was worn everyday. Saw a chap out shopping in what appeared to be an AL Irvin, so I wasn't the only one with a bright idea.

Nice new addition to the collection there Andrew and most interesting with that V shape on the back.

And Windsock many thanks for posting pics of the boots and also of your other kit including the indispensible black lab.

 

[Alan Eardley]

Soldier of Fortune sell them online. I use recycled Lightnings from sheepskin boots which are common at the moment. They are the right length and are cheaper.

Alan

Sorry, total novice here, what website is this? Is this the Harlan Glenn mentioned previously? SoF?

 

[Mike1973]

Nothing informative I'm afraid, just a picture a mate took on New Years Day...

 

[Smithy]

Great photo Mike :eusa_clap

 

[Milu]

I'm very tempted by the WPG Irvin but I'm afraid the sleeves in my size will be too long. Can anyone confirm the leather is soft and light enough to roll up the cuff or is there another cheap and cheerful option?

 

[boyorastroboy]

I'm very tempted by the WPG Irvin but I'm afraid the sleeves in my size will be too long. Can anyone confirm the leather is soft and light enough to roll up the cuff or is there another cheap and cheerful option?

Hi Milu,
I've been enjoying my WPG Irvin for a little less than a month, and I can tell you the leather is definitely soft and light enough to roll up the cuff--I even did so to test (pic below). So far my only disappointment with the jacket is the zippers and other hardware are very cheap. Despite the fact that it is soft, and appears somewhat thinner than other repro Irvins, it is very warm--I've had several sub zero experiences here in MN and it's kept me nice and toasty.

 

[Milu]

Thanks. The problem I have with some of the repros I've seen is they're much thicker than I want to wear.

 

[Spitfire]

Milu - try going back a bit in this thread. I had my new repro Irvin (see pics) made by Al (Aviation Leathercraft, Andover H. UK) They are normally known for making very bulky, heavy Irvins - but I persuaded them into making mine in the softer, slightly lighter fleece, they use for a "Irvin inspired jacket"
They do make them after measure - so you should be able to get the exact right sleevelength too.
My Irvin is very light, soft and absolutetly warm enough. A great jacket.

 

[Alan Eardley]

Turning up the cuffs ruins the zips.

Alan

 

[Windsock]

Turning up the cuffs ruins the zips.

Alan

Sacriledge!!...and it will make you look like a Poodle.

Seriously though and no offence intended but, try to get one that fits from the start. I know you are buying a repro but they were never worn this way. I'm sure they make one that will fit you. It will also be too bulky to roll back on itself.

 

[Milu]

Milu - try going back a bit in this thread. I had my new repro Irvin (see pics) made by Al (Aviation Leathercraft, Andover H. UK) They are normally known for making very bulky, heavy Irvins - but I persuaded them into making mine in the softer, slightly lighter fleece, they use for a "Irvin inspired jacket"
They do make them after measure - so you should be able to get the exact right sleevelength too.
My Irvin is very light, soft and absolutetly warm enough. A great jacket.

I saw it. Very nice!
Cost is also a consideration, and I'm not sure I could get to Thruxton until after Easter. I don't know enough about Irvin fit and measurements to feel confortable having one made over the internet.