Inspiration.

[Barmey]

Hello Folks,

I've been off the forum for a while, but I'm back and looking for some help. Next year I'm going to be competing in the Golden Shears, which is a competition for apprentice tailors. I need to come up with a design fairly soon, and I'm looking to you chaps for some inspiration. I need ideas on style, cut, features, and cloth. I thinking it should be a three piece suit, but by no means should it be conventional.

I've already got a few ideas floating around so I may run a few thing by you, but nothing is set in stone.

That's it! Post pictures, ideas and anything you would like to see reproduced.

Thank you very much.

Barmey

 

[herringbonekid]

you know what it has to be Barmey... an early 20s narrow wrap (high button stance) DB. :eusa_clap

 

[Two Types]

HBK: would that be made especially to fit a certain person in East Sussex?

 

[Two Types]

My first thought (as I have mentioned to you before) is that modern tailoring seems to produce such dull trousers. Savile Row's finest seem to make trousers that don't have any details that really grab you. As such, I would suggest something distinctive for the trousers - even if no one sees them in normal use. I think you know the trousers I mean - slip pockets, no waistband, watch pocket etc. At least no one else will do that.

Have a look through here: Romanian photos from the mid 20th century It's full of very distinctive lapels.

Or you could simply make something with two breast pockets (in a size 47 - please).

 

[Barmey]

Competition rules means it's got to measure a 40'' chest, 34 waist'', 42'' Seat. I might see I can alter it down to a 36'' R for myself afterwards.

I agree withe the era (1000's of possibility's) and my first design is exactly as you described, with the addition of a belted/pleated back. The belt continues round and is taken into the front dart. Pleated patch pockets.... hahahaha

What about cloth? its got to be "interesting"? My vintage stuff is limited. I'm not sure whether work will pay for it. It might be being cheeky asking for some LL flannel
Heavy and in your face. Interesting colours and patterns. Pattern matching will mean more points!

 

[Barmey]

I agree withe the era (1000's of possibility's) and my first design is exactly as you described, with the addition of a belted/pleated back. The belt continues round and is taken into the front dart. Pleated patch pockets.... hahahaha

Knew I'd seen it before!

Too plain to win??

 

[Barmey]

I think you know the trousers I mean - slip pockets, no waistband, watch pocket etc. At least no one else will do that.

I still need to photograph that suit! That waistband is the pretty out there

 

[herringbonekid]

It might be being cheeky asking for some LL flannel Heavy and in your face. Interesting colours and patterns. Pattern matching will mean more points!

yes, try and wangle some Fox LL windowpane. windowpane always scores high with the bespoke crowd.

 

[herringbonekid]

HBK: would that be made especially to fit a certain person in East Sussex?

no... i want Barmey to try out this style first before i make one.

 

[Two Types]

Any idea what style waistcoat this suit would have had? If it had the same style patch pockets as the jacket, it would be stunning.

The good thing about that suit is that the aesthetic is very modern: it should gets points for the skinny look and just for having to work damn hard to get all the features in place. Like HBK says, patching matching on the suit would be essential so might as well make it as difficult as possible with a check.

Or how about really sweating over your pattern matching with this one from the London Cloth Company::eeek:

For the cloth, I wonder about getting something really distinctive from the London Cloth Company - use the gimmick woven, designed and tailored in London. I think this cloth would be great for that style of suit:

Are you planning to make a matching cap to go with the suit? There's plenty of radical designs from the period.

 

[GHT]

Next year I'm going to be competing in the Golden Shears, which is a competition for apprentice tailors. I need to come up with a design fairly soon, and I'm looking to you chaps for some inspiration. I need ideas on style, cut, features, and cloth. I thinking it should be a three piece suit, but by no means should it be conventional.

When you can dress a groom to upstage a bride, you have arrived.

 

[Gin&Tonics]

Make a three piece frock suit! Frock coats are awesome and definitely very unusual! Look to Jeremy Brett as Sherlock Holmes if you wish to see a superb example.

 

[Baron Kurtz]

Although, you've probably got one already … should you require a vintage example from which to study, I can lend you one.

with the addition of a belted/pleated back. The belt continues round and is taken into the front dart. Pleated patch pockets.... hahahaha

 

[herringbonekid]

Although, you've probably got one already … should you require a vintage example from which to study, I can lend you one.

you've got an early 20s belt back ?

 

[Baron Kurtz]

German. Probably 30s, but it has the kind of feature barmy describes. Also, it's made for a teen smaller than me and the style reminds me a lot of Leyendecker illustrations. Tight 'n' short.

Ben S. has a middle 20s beltback, but French not British. Made for some Marquis or Comte or other.

 

[Baron Kurtz]

Barmey, do you have pics of previous winning efforts? Given the pre-specified dimensions the judging isn't going to be on fit. So what will they be looking for? All the tailoring bells and whistles … the old techniques? In other words: what's the purpose of the competition?

 

[Two Types]

I was going to ask similar questions. Is the interior as important as the exterior, i.e. will you earn extra points for using some very intricate pattern for the interior shape and styling?

 

[herringbonekid]

here's a previous winner.
whaddyaknow... it's a windowpane fabric :

http://dandyportraits.blogspot.co.uk/2013/03/rory-duffy-bespoke-in-brooklyn.html

 

[Two Types]

It has that traditional style of lining a morning coat - lot's of work went into it, that's for sure. With the kilt etc, it's a bit 'bells and whistles' for my taste but that said, I don't suppose it's about making a nice suit, it's about showing off skills.

 

[Two Types]

I looked at the 2013 winners: everything was over the top, nothing was a straightforward suit:

I was also interested to see the judges:
Lloyd Johnson, Hilary Alexander, Raymond Blanc, Joanna Lumley and Nick Hewer.

None of them are tailors!

EDIT: There was also a seperate panel of tailors.