Info on split-back Brooks cafe racers..?

[lina]

Just curious what folks know about the split back Brooks CRs that occasionally pop up. They have the older gold tag, and I gather that they are slightly older than the single piece back. Other than the split back, it appears that the main difference from the more common gold tag is the smaller main zipper pull.

Does anyone know the years for the split back version? And I recall hearing some talk that the leather might have been thinner, but also know that Brooks can vary quite a bit, so not sure how consistent that is.

Anyone, just curious for any info comparing the split-back gold tag with the more common gold tag. Thanks.

 

[Monitor]

Just curious what folks know about the split back Brooks CRs that occasionally pop up. They have the older gold tag, and I gather that they are slightly older than the single piece back. Other than the split back, it appears that the main difference from the more common gold tag is the smaller main zipper pull.

Does anyone know the years for the split back version? And I recall hearing some talk that the leather might have been thinner, but also know that Brooks can vary quite a bit, so not sure how consistent that is.

Anyone, just curious for any info comparing the split-back gold tag with the more common gold tag. Thanks.

The other difference is that the split back ones also have sleeve zippers on the inside panel of the sleeve, instead in the back seam. From what I gathered, the split back Brooks is the earliest one. And the rarest. Not many people will notice the difference but personally, this version is my favorite.

Tmitchell (who else) used to have one but I think he sold it. Here's a video and a couple of photos of his jacket along with some product catalog:

 

[Seb Lucas]

Lina I don't know but I think a related questions is this. What are the variations between the Brooks 511 model from the 1960's and 1970's? Most of the Brooks cafe racers we see here that look old are really from the mid 1970's. It would be interesting to see photos of the jacket's evolution from the 1960's side by side.

The split back has two explanations I have heard - firstly, it saves money on leather - you can get more jackets made from more leather if the individual pieces of leather are smaller. The back is always the largest piece of any jacket. And secondly, the split back allows the pattern to be put together to fit trimmer ( I doubt this is true but I have heard it)

In those early ones there is sometimes also a difference in how the sleeves are attached. In early Brooks the sleeves at the shoulders are stitched inside the seem. In later jackets the seem is visible.

Leather varies a bit but it is always fairly thin - I'd say 2.2 oz. The current Brooks are 3 oz and heavy.

 

[lina]

The other difference is that the split back ones also have sleeve zippers on the inside panel of the sleeve, instead in the back seam. From what I gathered, the split back Brooks is the earliest one. And the rarest. Not many people will notice the difference but personally, this version is my favorite.

Tmitchell (who else) used to have one but I think he sold it. Here's a video and a couple of photos of his jacket along with some product catalog:

That catalogue copy is great stuff!

 

[ton312]

The earliest Brooks I ever owned had a white label, no split back or gussets, no kidney panel. The leather was also substantially different than any other Brooks I've owned. Was very early into my collecting days and sadly I don't have a pic. It was essentially a carbon copy of the Buco j-100 but the sleeve zips were on the inside of the wrist instead of the outside. I believe it was the first to come out of their factory and tho it was much too small I really wish I had kept it. Only the folks around here would appreciate its obscurity!

 

[Seb Lucas]

I guess Joseph Bugeleisen, the Buco maker who started Brooks, couldn't help himself. I wonder if that was 1959-60 the first year of Brooks as a company.

Here's a later 1960's one without the shoulder seams.

 

[eugenesque]

The earliest Brooks I ever owned had a white label, no split back or gussets, no kidney panel. The leather was also substantially different than any other Brooks I've owned. Was very early into my collecting days and sadly I don't have a pic. It was essentially a carbon copy of the Buco j-100 but the sleeve zips were on the inside of the wrist instead of the outside. I believe it was the first to come out of their factory and tho it was much too small I really wish I had kept it. Only the folks around here would appreciate its obscurity!

One would certainly mistake this with a buco j100 or a board racer considering the additional length and that the zippers end higher.

 

[Gamma68]

After looking at the catalog copy, I realized that I live just up the street from the former Brooks Leather Sportswear building. I could walk there.

 

[Monitor]

After looking at the catalog copy, I realized that I live just up the street from the former Brooks Leather Sportswear building. I could walk there.

Go check it out. Maybe you find a crate full of them!

 

[tmitchell59]

Here is a video I did with my early and later Brooks. Perhaps you can see more differences. what is probably more difficult to see is the weight of the leather. That is the most telling difference. The split back is very light leather. It is getting thin in the shoulders. The Split back does not have Brooks on the snaps.

I still own these two. I sold another gold label that was very clean and too small. My "new" one is a bit tight through the mid section in this video. That is a fault of mine not the jacket! They both feel similar other than the old one is probably a 44.

There was a recent link to Good Wear sales page with new Buco style jackets. I know there are other makers using the Buco pattern. I have not owned one, new or old. I'm sure they are nice, but at $1500?

Like many here I've owned several brands/types of Cafe racers. They are plentiful. I just don't think you can beat the Brooks in this style. They are a fraction of the reproduction Bucos. I think I have bought and sold two others that didn't fit. I have no trouble selling them. The prices have risen some, but not near Buco new or old prices.

 

[tmitchell59]

another Brooks Video. I would have kept that trucker if it had fit.

 

[tmitchell59]

Tmitchell (who else) used to have one but I think he sold it. Here's a video and a couple of photos of his jacket along with some product catalog:

Thanks for the reference! here is the link to the Full Brooks catalog

 

[Gamma68]

Go check it out. Maybe you find a crate full of them!

I know I can get a crate of sinks or a few water heaters. The building is now a plumbing supply house. I've been a customer on a number of occasions and had no idea it was once the Brooks manufacturing facility.

Here's the building today:

 

[Gamma68]

I'd like to know if the post-gold label Brooks jackets are at the same level of quality. Once in a while, I come across Brooks jackets with the label pictured below, but I'm not sure if they match up with the gold label versions. Can anyone share their two cents?

 

[Monitor]

From what I've heard, these black tag ones are just as good if not better than the gold tag Brooks. They're a bit heavier though leather looks about the same and they come with a removable fur lining which is always a nice thing.

I know they age very well.

I know I can get a crate of sinks or a few water heaters. The building is now a plumbing supply house. I've been a customer on a number of occasions and had no idea it was once the Brooks manufacturing facility.

Here's the building today:

lol well there goes that fantasy. It couldn't have possibly be anything more boring than this.

 

[tmitchell59]

I've not owned the Black label above. I've seen pics of them and they look nice.

The leather on the mustard colored and my size 42 Cafe are heavy enough with no lining.

They are good jackets and most affordable.

 

[Gamma68]

Thanks, @Monitor and @tmitchell59. Appreciate your feedback!

 

[lina]

It's interesting that many of the Brooks CRs seem to have a slightly longer front right panel, below the zipper, than the left panel (from the wearer's perspective), as in Terry's video above but on others too. I wonder if that's just from years of pulling down on that side while zipping with the right hand..?

 

[lina]

^ er, I mean from the viewer 's perspective..

 

[Seb Lucas]

As Mon said the later Brooks are better made and a softer, thicker hide.