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if the bound finish comes off does the edge just become a raw edge?

Detective_Noir

One of the Regulars
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174
Location
Kansas
i recently have found that my vintage hat's bound finish stitching is finally giving out. and i was wondering if it came off it would just be a raw edge cut, or would the fur at the edge fall apart from the bound edge not being there to hold it together?
 
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10,933
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It's possible that the felt color under that edge binding is different than the rest of the brim, which has been more directly exposed to the elements. And there will be stitch holes, which may or may not "heal" after they've been wetted and massaged a bit.

How wide is the binding? And what's its condition otherwise? It may be possible to restitch it. Not likely, but possible. And it could be replaced with a new binding.

How wide is the brim? Could you stand to have it narrowed some?
 
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Jingo Mastapone

Familiar Face
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50
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Oregon
I don't feel that redoing the stitching is any problem at all. Adjust your stitch length to match, spool up a like colored thread, and go for it. Assuming you have or have secured use of a sewing machine.
 

Detective_Noir

One of the Regulars
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174
Location
Kansas
on the under side of the brim its a 1/4" bound but on the top of the brim its 1/8" bound. its for the look of it. but the side is coming loose and coming undone i was seeing if i just took the bound edge off would the edge just be left to what seems like a raw edge or will it fall apart? the brim is 2 5/8 wide
 
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10,524
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DnD Ranch, Cherokee County, GA
on the under side of the brim its a 1/4" bound but on the top of the brim its 1/8" bound. its for the look of it. but the side is coming loose and coming undone i was seeing if i just took the bound edge off would the edge just be left to what seems like a raw edge or will it fall apart? the brim is 2 5/8 wide
It won't fall apart...felt is one of the toughest materials out there...
 
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My mother's basement
The felt itself is indeed sturdy stuff. (You can tear felt, but you almost have to try.) I can't see how removing the binding ribbon would compromise the felt's integrity, although, as I said earlier, the stitch holes may or may not seal up after being wetted and massaged. If they don't, you'd have to decide if you'd rather live with those holes near the brim edge or reduce the brim's width. Sounds like you'll have two rows of stitch holes, though, seeing how it's one of those "asymmetrical" (there's a better word, I'm sure) bindings. So being rid of the holes (should they remain despite your best efforts) might involve removing more brim than I'm guessing you'd wish to.


The problems, potentially, with restitching the binding include finding a thread to match the "good" stitching, starting and stopping the new stitching in an inconspicuous way, damaging that old ribbon (it can scuff and even tear), and going through the trouble (such as it is) for what may well be a soiled and/or discolored binding ribbon. This is certainly not to say that it wouldn't be worth an attempt should the old binding still be in reasonably good condition, but if the stitching is failing in one place along its length, it may well be about to fail in others.
 
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LoveMyHats2

I’ll Lock Up.
Messages
5,196
Location
Michigan
I would consider sharing some pictures (if you do not wish to try to fix the hat on your own) with someone here that has some good skill sets to fix it, they may guide you more, or, maybe someone can do that for you? I am sure the good people here that make hats can do something and a few here can do some bound edge stuff! I would volunteer doing it if I could, but I do not have a sewing machine and I am not really great hand sewing something as the bound edge of a fine hat! If you love the hat, consider fixing it unless you just don't want the edge binding on it any more!?!
 

danofarlington

My Mail is Forwarded Here
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3,122
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Arlington, Virginia
With this kind of repair, whether you do it or someone else does it, it's smart to be prepared in advance for disappointment--in case the stitch holes show, or some other problem arises that was unforeseen. Maybe a better than 50-50 chance that things will come out all right, but not everything turns out perfect, even if an expert does the work, so steel yourself for a less-than-mint condition result. Acceptance has helped me through many a hat fixing venture.
 

carldelo

One Too Many
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1,568
Location
Astoria, NYC
Someone posted here a while back about a similar situation. The ribbon binding was removed from a hat, and the stitch holes were prominent. As I recall they just added new stitching by hand to fill the holes with a matching thread color - without bothering to put a new ribbon on. It looked good - there are hats that come that way new, stitching with no ribbon. I've seen some Borso hats like this.

PS many hatters will redo a brim binding - Worth & Worth did one of mine for $25.
 
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10,933
Location
My mother's basement
Yup, cardelo. And yup, gtdean48.

A row or two or even three of wholly decorative edge stitching can be pretty cool. In a thread close to body color, it's quite subtle. In contrasting color(s), it's another matter, of course.

There's a type of rayon thread that has a nice sheen to it that reflects light in what might be called micro-flashes. Using it in colors matching the felt looks real cool, especially in black and other dark shades. You might not even notice it until it catches a little flash of light.

The stitching on the original Stetson Playboys is indeed wholly decorative. Contrast that with the "wafer" edge seen on some old Stetson Flagship models. That's an overwelt, but unusual in that it appears that the far edge of the brim that gets folded over is first sanded down (I assume) so that it is much thinner than the rest of the brim. And then it is secured with three rows of stitching. The result is a much thinner than typical overwelt. And the three rows of stitches are distinctive as well. It's pretty darned cool, and involved. I know of no other manufacturer who ever did that, and of no one doing it now. It could be done, although it would require setting up a sander that would cover only that 3/8ths of an inch of so at the outer edge of the brim.
 

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