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I am trying to get a jacket custom re-created - does this style of collar have a name?

zebedee

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I bought an Aero used that wasn't one of their usual patterns and, as it was a bit too tight in the arms, sold it to a good buddy a few years ago. The jacket itself was double-breasted, and had a collar that looked like this - note the gaps between the upper and lower parts of the lapels:

F220857E-D3A5-48A2-83CE-9C5697DDA038.jpeg


I am trying to get something like it - simple, straight-line cuffs, no half belt, extremely dark brown/grey basecoat, probably a 1.1 mm steer hide or something of that ilk.

The collar probably has a name which might make it easier to describe before a custom job.
 

Canuck Panda

I'll Lock Up
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4,666
Aero Barnstormer and SB Montana has just the regular notch lapels "W" shaped. Your custom jacket looks like a peak lapel which I've not seen from either brand before it must have been a custom one off? In theory you could build it from either the Barnstormer or Montana base and just change the pockets and lapel. It will come down to pricing at this point. This type of design also requires a softer leather imo. Also Aero Barnstromer has a taper while SB Montana is straight down so that's something to watch out for. Are peak collars making a comeback? It has been a while since I wore a peak lapel double breasted suit.
 

floater

Familiar Face
Messages
59
I’d call that a slim peaked lapel (slim compared to a normal pea coat)
 
Last edited:

zebedee

One Too Many
Messages
1,900
Location
Shanghai
Aero Barnstormer and SB Montana has just the regular notch lapels "W" shaped. Your custom jacket looks like a peak lapel which I've not seen from either brand before it must have been a custom one off? In theory you could build it from either the Barnstormer or Montana base and just change the pockets and lapel. It will come down to pricing at this point. This type of design also requires a softer leather imo. Also Aero Barnstromer has a taper while SB Montana is straight down so that's something to watch out for. Are peak collars making a comeback? It has been a while since I wore a peak lapel double breasted suit.

Yeah, the Montana would be the easiest conversion and just get it to 28 inches at back with no chest pockets.
 

Canuck Panda

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,666
Yeah, the Montana would be the easiest conversion and just get it to 28 inches at back with no chest pockets.
And the peak lapels, stock is just regular notch. Mine is also shortened to 28”, I believe stock length is a bit longer. Also remember to spec the hem width, stock 42 is 23” straight down, I tapered mine in a bit.
IMG_2649.jpeg
 

zebedee

One Too Many
Messages
1,900
Location
Shanghai
And the peak lapels, stock is just regular notch. Mine is also shortened to 28”, I believe stock length is a bit longer. Also remember to spec the hem width, stock 42 is 23” straight down, I tapered mine in a bit.
View attachment 634886
Yes, I think this would work. 29 inches would be ideal , if it can be done. Blattwerk is really pliable, but thick (my SBV2 is very dense), so I am going to ask Debs about options. I'll avoid goat if possible as I want it to be relatively un-pebbled.
 

zebedee

One Too Many
Messages
1,900
Location
Shanghai
And the peak lapels, stock is just regular notch. Mine is also shortened to 28”, I believe stock length is a bit longer. Also remember to spec the hem width, stock 42 is 23” straight down, I tapered mine in a bit.
View attachment 634886
This is a really nice design. Which leather is it? Mooreiche and the Ranger dark brown have caught my eye; I might go for 1.2mm if pliable and I am trying to avoid the pebbling of goat (although SB does an awesome matte black goathide). I might add button cuffs and the seam across the chest (which the original didn't have). I might also see if the collar I want can be added to a single-breasted SB (like the Car Coat or Statesman), but I have no idea how likely this is. Ironically, I have a really old jacket in the UK with the same type of collar which is single-breasted.
 

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