How to Tell if a Thrift Store Tie is Vintage?

[Retro Spectator]

I may have asked this question before, but I was wondering, how do you tell how old a tie is without bringing a measuring tape with you? As I have never owned a vintage tie, I do not know how thick they are. I hear that the labels are in different places, but I wonder, do 60s ties have labels in different places too? I seem to always wind up buying 70s/80s ties by accident, believing they are from the 60s, only to be wrong.

 

[esteban68]

ok I might be going out on a limb here and it may be UK specific though I don't think it is, but a good indicator is the presence of a loop to put the long thin loose end through after tying, older pre 60's ties generally do not have this, there are others such as length but again that may be UK specific too, it may be an idea to get to know a set length/height on your body and use it as a rough guide.

 

[Retro Spectator]

Hmm, what is the longest length seen on late 50s, and early/mid 60s ties?

 

[Nick D]

The construction of the ends is different than modern ties. Length can be an indicator, but not a 100% reliable one. I have a couple '40s ties that are quite long. When I look through the tie racks in thrift stores, I sift through looking at the ends.

 

[Retro Spectator]

What does a typical tip of a vintage tie look like? When did they stop doing the different tip?

 

[Nick D]

One dead giveaway is the unlined, asymmetrical hem, more usual of older ties. Lined ties generally retained the asymmetry, and the seam does not go all the way to where the sides cross.

 

[Nick D]

Here's several ties that show some different treatments. The wide end will usually be constructed similarly. You can see how the seams ends several inches from the point and the general asymmetry: http://vintagehaberdashers.com/tag/1930s-1940s-1950s/

 

[Two Types]

Vintage ties (pre 1970s ) are often unlined in the tip. Also the construction tends to be softer. Modern ties usually have heavier construction - not the main fabric but the interior (leading to larger knots). So just feeling the tie can often help.
Another really good indicator is the label - look at the lettering on the label, if the label looks old fashioned then it has a great chance of being old. Of course, this is easier is you have a general understanding of 20th century design etc.
Combine all the points suggested by people and, in time, you will gain an understanding of how to spot a vintage tie.
To be honest, once you have handled a few true vintage ties, you will soon learn the difference. Keep looking and you will find some.

 

[Rodney]

Thank you guys. Very informative for guys like me that are just starting to learn.
Rodney

 

[jamespowers]

http://www.oocities.org/~knot/

This used to be a great working site but it now is still good reference to many things vintage tie.
Vintage ties are just completely different than the blankets they make called ties today. They have a ton more inner facing---that blanket in the middle of the tie that makes it feel thick as a winter blanket. Vintage ties are thin and feel limp in comparison to a modern tie. Vintage ties also are likely to be found with a cream colored tip lining rather than a black one like today's ties. Probably a good thing as they denote the fact that the glory days of nice and not boring ties is just about dead. :doh: The materials that the ties were made from is slightly different as well. The rayon back then was silky in feel in comparison to the nasty sandpaper fabrics that constitute polyester and the like that was popular for ties later.
Lastly but not least of which is the brand names you should be familiar with. Smoothie, Hollyvogue, Cohama, Corsair, Van Cruise, Wilson Brothers, Jiffy, Andre, Pilgrim, Regal, Superba, Arco, Brent, Beau Brummell, Haband(New Jersey only!), Signet, Cutter, J. Galet, Resisto, Nu-Way, Damon and a host of others that I can't remember now were all offering decent back in the day. Another thing that denotes a vintage label for a tie is a label that has the bottom cut by pinking shears. Like this:

Most of these have that wavy shark tooth bottom that manufacturers can't be bothered with now. In fact, modern labels will likely be black and sewn to the main blade of the tie----vintage ties have the labels sewn to the back blade of the tie.
I hope some of that helps in your search for Ties of Distinction.

 

[Rodney]

I don't want to derail this thread. I do have a related question though. There are a couple Wembley ties that look like they're possibly wool at a local thrift store. One is red and has a label that says "Wear with blue or grey" IIRC.
Is there a guide somewhere for Wembley labels so I can figure out how old it is?
Jamespowers: Thanks for that link. I tried there but struck out.
Thanks,
Rodney

 

[jamespowers]

I don't want to derail this thread. I do have a related question though. There are a couple Wembley ties that look like they're possibly wool at a local thrift store. One is red and has a label that says "Wear with blue or grey" IIRC.
Is there a guide somewhere for Wembley labels so I can figure out how old it is?
Jamespowers: Thanks for that link. I tried there but struck out.
Thanks,
Rodney

The wear with instructions were added in the 1950s. Before that you were on your own. By the 1960s, people NEEDED those instructions.

 

[Rodney]

Thank you! It's not a bad looking tie to me. I might go back and get it. Subtle markings. I don't think I'm ready for "Bold is Beautiful" just yet.
I was born in the 60s. I'll probably benefit from those instructions.
Rodney

 

[jamespowers]

Thank you! It's not a bad looking tie to me. I might go back and get it. Subtle markings. I don't think I'm ready for "Bold is Beautiful" just yet.
I was born in the 60s. I'll probably benefit from those instructions.
Rodney

You need to try Ties of Distinction----you'll never go back to boring.

Being born in the 60s is not as bad as living through them.

 

[Rodney]

I'll see if I can find it.
Rodney

 

[Quetzal]

Ties made until the 1980s are VERY EASY to identify, once you've dealt with enough ties. From what you've posted, all of those are from 1980s to the present, with a handful of the "conservative" ties made in the later 1970s (every era had conservative ties).

I would not rely on length; I find long ties made after the Second Great War, and these were made to be tied in the then-new "Windsor-Knot." Assuming that you want the Rayons of the Post-War Period (such as the ones that JP and dh66), which I feel are ties that only Americans can pull off (we always were the "sloppiest" and most "garish" of dressers in comparison to other countries), you'll be able to spot them, just by looking and feeling that old-world construction. I'd suggest buying a period tie from this forum or on The 'Bay, and compare it with other ties when thrifting.

If you want the "conservative" Three-Fold Constructed ties, which were made until the late 1950s, simply check the back. These are easily mistaken as "Child's Ties" to most, since they are so tiny in comparison to contemporary ties. If you happen to like the skinny ties of the 1950s and the 1960s, these are the easiest to spot, since they are VERY skinny, even when compared to modern "skinny" ties (some are even narrower than a shirt placket; it's no wonder there are so many tie-clasps from that era!) If you happen to like later-1960s and 1970s ties, those are generally thick, but shorter, and with more of a taper in comparison to modern ties (don't forget the garish designs).

The label and their location is probably the safest determining factor, as they are located on the ends of ties, with makers woven into the tags rather than stamped.

-Quetzal

 

[jamespowers]

I would not rely on length; I find long ties made after the Second Great War, and these were made to be tied in the then-new "Windsor-Knot." Assuming that you want the Rayons of the Post-War Period (such as the ones that JP and dh66), which I feel are ties that only Americans can pull off (we always were the "sloppiest" and most "garish" of dressers in comparison to other countries), you'll be able to spot them, just by looking and feeling that old-world construction. I'd suggest buying a period tie from this forum or on The 'Bay, and compare it with other ties when thrifting.

The thing that throws length off are ties such as this:

 

[Retro Spectator]

Thanks for all the replies! This is lots of information!

 

[Retro Spectator]

Today, I went to the thrift store, and I saw a Rooster tie. I have seen in another thread that they are 60s ties (I am personally looking for ties from 1945-1969). This specific tie had a white logo, but one logo was stitched to the back part, and another to the front part (like modern ties, but I think the front one was fatter.) This tie was not exactly the skinniest tie. Probably about 2.5" or 3.5". I did not get the tie, because I remembered reading that the back of the front of vintage ties is usually asymmetrical (does this apply to 60s ties?) The tie was diagonal stripes. It was padded, but I don't think the padding was super thick.

This tie has the same Rooster logo, I believe. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Rooster-Men...549?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item43dd57a185
So does this one, I think. https://www.etsy.com/listing/229997...&ga_search_query=rooster tie&ref=sr_gallery_4

 

[Talbot]

http://www.oocities.org/~knot/

This used to be a great working site but it now is still good reference to many things vintage tie.

JP, thanks. I'd long lost the link to the K.N.O.T. site.