How to Ruin a Perfectly Good Suit

[Marc Chevalier]

I don't wear matching ties and handkerchiefs. Sometimes I prefer the old standby: a white linen handkerchief. Looks good with everything, as long as it's well pressed. I'm not a fan of silk handkerchiefs, and I can't stand them puffed: look too "Vegas high roller/lounge singer" for my taste.

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[herringbonekid]

You have to admit that wearing a matching tie and square set is unimaginative, at best.

if they're a great design (and if they're as good as some 30s ties designs they WILL be) i say wear it.

 

[Baron Kurtz]

I prefer unmatched, but coordinated with the whole.

I knew i'd recently seen some of these. Both from the 1920s, apparently:

bk

 

[Wild Root]

I prefer unmatched, but coordinated with the whole.

I knew i'd recently seen some of these. Both from the 1920s, apparently:

bk

Those are pretty cool... I'd wear them with a nice three piece suit... would look nice I think.

I'm like Marc and BK... I mostly wear my cream or white handkerchief but, I have a few that are patterned that complement the tie. I would sport a matched set if I found one that I really liked. And as for unimaginative, I say when you close out some idea, it's being unimaginative... closed mindedness is not creativity.

=WR=

 

[Marc Chevalier]

... closed mindedness is not creativity.

Yes indeed! Closed mindedness kills creativity, or at least makes it rebel.

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[Wild Root]

Indeed, I would like to mention that matching items such as a tie with hankie isn't classified as a way to ruin a good suit... it may not be someone's ideal combo for a suit but, it doesn’t' ruin a good suit as say; wearing basketball shoes with a suit, or a ball cap or many other items that have been discussed.

I'd be happy to see a man wearing a nice pressed suit with shined dress shoes and a patterned tie with a matching hankie over some kid wearing a sport coat and a pair of ripped jeans.
Or a suit with the pants hanging off his hips with his shirt un-tucked and a tie that is practically dragging on the ground.

=WR=

 

[Senator Jack]

Yeah, I have to say the matching set doesn't annoy me at all. I don't do it, but it can be done right, as illustrated by BKs photos. In the 70s, there was a Montyh Python record called 'Matching Tie and Handkerchief' and since its release I have associated the items mainly with nattily attired and completely confusing Brit store clerks. ('We'd like to buy a bed please.')

Matt and I have been talking a lot about the closed-mindedness of GQ, Esquire, etc. 'Socks should match trousers.' they repeat ad nauseum, which, of course, we know isn't true. The problem with these guys is that they don't know how to put colors together, so they just say it's wrong.

The point I tried to get across is that a guy walks into a shop and buys a $1,500 suit and the suit is perfect. The break is just right, the armholes are high. Now what does he do to screw it up? He follows fashion. What a waste of money.

Regards,

Senator Jack

 

[Marc Chevalier]

... the closed-mindedness of people like Andy Gilchrist and the staff at GQ, Esquire, etc. 'Socks should match trousers.' they repeat ad nauseum, which, of course, we know isn't true. The problem with these guys is that they don't know how to put colors together, so they just say it's wrong.

The problem is that these guys have an inch to work with and are forced to stretch it a mile. You know those magazines like Men's Health, which pretty much repeat the same exercise and diet information over and over again, only with new titles and photos? Well GQ and Esquire are no different. They repeat the same basic truths about color coordination, silhouette proportions, etc., and they have to make these truths seem fresh and new. Thus, the magazines stretch it out by pointlessly tweaking with the rules a bit. I can't tell you how many times I've caught GQ contradicting its own "rules" in the 25 years that I've been reading it.

Andy Gilchrist knows how to put colors together. It's just that this knowledge is not enough to keep his career going. He's got to play the "spinach" game along with the rest of fashion.


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[herringbonekid]

Marc, please explain the 'fashion is spinach' quote as i have no idea what it refers to.

 

[Marc Chevalier]

Marc, please explain the 'fashion is spinach' quote as i have no idea what it refers to.

"Spinach" was a 1920s-'30s euphemism for "nonsense", or "bull". Fashion is Spinach is the title of a classic book on the profession:

http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showpost.php?p=172153&postcount=8


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[herringbonekid]

i see. thank you.

 

[Phil]

Mixing and matching coats and trousers. By which i mean having two different shades of the same color or having a black coat and navy pants or vice versa.

 

[Wild Root]

Mixing and matching coats and trousers. By which i mean having two different shades of the same color or having a black coat and navy pants or vice versa.

I agree with you on that score... but, it's not really a suit for say, it's reall a sorry attempt to a sport outfit.

When I pair two different colors... they are very different from each other but, they are complimentary colors or, a very striking contrast such as navy and ivory or tan and dark brown. The key is to have the colors contrast enough to make sure they’re not going to clash with each other. Also a nice one is light gray with navy or light gray with black.

Navy and black do not mix!

=WR=

 

[Orgetorix]

Navy and black do not mix!

I'll drink to that! The worst is when you see someone walking down the street in a navy suit--and then you realize his suit jacket has gold buttons. And then, horrified, you do a double-take and realize his pants are just a shade darker than his jacket.

 

[Baron Kurtz]

Navy and black do not mix!

=WR=

No, they do.

black shoes look just fine with a navy suit. not my cup of tea; i prefer brown shoes with a navy suit. But black shoes (especially with a bit of brogue-ing) work fine too.

bk

p.s. I like to challenge people with not quite matched colours. I congratulate them when they notice. Alas, very very few people manage to spot my intentional faux pas.

 

[Wild Root]

No, they do.

black shoes look just fine with a navy suit. not my cup of tea; i prefer brown shoes with a navy suit. But black shoes (especially with a bit of brogue-ing) work fine too.

I was going to mention shoes... I agree with you on the black shoes with navy suit or what not... my self I prefer an orange/brown with a navy or indigo suit. Black shoes is known as the business color for shoes of the period... they wore them with brown, gray, navy or black suits.

=WR=

 

[maintcoder]

Indeed!

I regularly wear black wingtips with a navy DB suit - it looks very clean for business and even social occasions.

But what do you say about cordovan?

 

[Marc Chevalier]

Cordovan is a great color for shoes. It looks especially "natty" and goes with a lot of things: black, blue, grey, green, tan, certain shades of brown, and even beige. Practically all-purpose.

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[Riposte3]

Aaaaaaaaarrrrrgh!

My manager picked up 2 new suits yesterday, and decided to wear one today to "try it out." Seems reasonable, right? Except...

He's not wearing a tie!!! :rage:

It makes me cringe every time I see it! When I suggested that he should wear a tie with it, he said he thinks it looks good for a casual look, and that he only wears a tie when he wants to look "corporate." :eusa_doh:

Very frustrating.

-Jake

 

[Wild Root]

My manager picked up 2 new suits yesterday, and decided to wear one today to "try it out." Seems reasonable, right? Except...

He's not wearing a tie!!! :rage:

It makes me cringe every time I see it! When I suggested that he should wear a tie with it, he said he thinks it looks good for a casual look, and that he only wears a tie when he wants to look "corporate." :eusa_doh:

Very frustrating.

-Jake

I can share in your frustration... when I think of a well ran office, I'd expect to see the boss man in a tie as well.

On the other side, a suit can and is appropriate to wear as dressy or casual.
In this image below, we see the famous vocal group "The Pied Pipers" that sang with Tommy Dorsey... Note: The first member of the group on the far left, he's wearing a nice single breasted suit with... A clean T-shirt under it!

I've seen plenty of photos of men in the 40's wearing this same type of style. I like a button up shirt with open collars spread out over the collar of the suit... That look is nice I feel for when causal dress is appropriate.

=WR=