How much room in the chest?

[samo]

Hopefully You do not mind for a smaller alterations - hijacking of the topics? So what is Your preferred excess at the waist and at the bottom of the jacket? I am interesting about this regarding tapering.

 

[Edward]

Waist / hip measurement is extremely important. Aero's basic MC style, their take on the Perfecto, for instance, fits like a 50s HB on top - plenty of shoulder room but still snug - yet at the waistband it's significantly smaller (by about 2") than a same-number-size 30s Halfbelt. (Unless they've changed the pattern in the last three years, that is).

I figured out a few years ago what I need in pit to pit - 48" (especially in a snugly cut jacket) and 20" shoulders in a jacket to be worn over a shirt; nearer 50" if it's to be worn over a heavy sweater. My actual chest is just about 43". This usually means a 44, but I have jackets in everything from 42" to 48" labelled sizing. There is no standardisation whatever. The worst thing is internet sellers / resellers who don't understand the difference between the size of the person forwhom a jacket is intended and the size of a jacket itself. I've seen idiots selling "size 44" jackets that measure a size 44 pit to pit...... and carry a "size 38" label inside. One reason I buy much less on eBay now is idiots like this.

 

[Damo]

My last Johnson in the heavy steer--4 oz.--was north of $700, and there were few if any fit alterations. My body type is the same as the model the jackets are built on. I did have a few other minor alterations, but those didn't really alter the price. Alan didn't even charge for the inside pocket pistol holster. So, I wouldn't say Johnson is not inexpensive. But compared to Goodwear, Aero and some others, I understand what you are saying.

As to your comment about the ultimate leather store that carries all the brands and styles you wanted, a close approximation would be to go through Wade/Carrie in Seattle. Don't know what part of Canada you are from, and I don't know how customs would alter the picture, but going through them is the next best thing to actually going in the store. They will send you a fit jacket in whatever manufacturer you are interested--and that they carry--and you go from there. Of course Alan at Johnson Leathers will do the same thing, as well as John Chapman. That is the only way I will buy a custom high end leather jacket in the future. Of the high end leather jackets in my collection, the five I have that were sized using test jackets, give me the best fit of any of my custom leather jackets.

I'm not a shill for Insurrection, but Wade and Carrie are really good at fitting based on pictures and measurements from the jacket they send out. I have had good results with their system of sizing.

Good luck in your quest. PC

Yes, I would really like to go thru wade/carrie at insurrection. The cheapness in me is having a difficult time wrapping my head around spending $1550 on a j106. Thats before customs and taxes but I do have a way of getting around those however it would mean about 12 hrs of driving. But I do agree with you about the fit would be right.

I'm getting a johnson leathers jacket at the end of the month so hopefully we nailed the fit with the cloth mock up. Who's John Chapman?

 

[handymike]

This guy:
http://www.goodwearleather.com/pages/index.html

 

[Damo]

Hi Damo,

There's no need to spend all the money just to get the correct fit. I have the same fitting problems as my body proportions are not your regular off the rack sizing. That said, many of the top makers (LW, Aero, Johnson) will work you with to get a good fit for the jacket that you purchase.

For LW, I provide my chest, waist, arm (sleeve) length, shoulder width, height and weight to Stuart. He recommended me a size and said that he will make the jacket to fit. All my LW jackets fit like gloves out of the box.

For Aero, I spoke with them over the phone, asked for the jacket measurements and provide my own. Bought one off the Sale page and bingo, it's a great snug fit.

I understand Johnson Leathers will make you a fit jacket in cotton. You wear it, take a few photos and email it to them and they will make adjustments before making the actual one in leather.

The key to minimizing fit errors is to work with these top makers as opposed to buying it off-the-rack from a website. Paying a little more for these top jackets if within budget is likely to cost less than buying a few to get the correct fit.

Hope this helps.

Cheers

Thx for the info, when you gave Stuart your measurements did he make you a custom jacket or charge the same as a stock? I like the speed demon. Not sure if you've handled a schott 618hh but I'm wondering if speed demon is worth the extra money compared to the 618? I'm fairly confident I can pick up a new 618 for $500 whereas the speed demon costs $1100. The only fit issue with the schott is the waist is a few inches too big but that could be fixed by a tailor probably for $100.

Regarding measurements I believe I have them figured out. But I'm pretty confident that I can look at a size chart and know if its going to work or not. I'll have a better indication when I get my Johnson at the end of the month. Yes we used the cloth mock up with fit pics method.

 

[Damo]

This guy:
http://www.goodwearleather.com/pages/index.html

Thx

 

[Damo]

Hopefully You do not mind for a smaller alterations - hijacking of the topics? So what is Your preferred excess at the waist and at the bottom of the jacket? I am interesting about this regarding tapering.

Based on my schott 141 I prefer the waist measurement to be 2-3 inches larger. I'm sure it also depends on the length of the jacket but I do like the waist to be pretty tight.

 

[Edward]

The standard drop for jackets is 4 inches, for coats is 6 inches. Even on vintage size tags, this generally holds true.

Based on my schott 141 I prefer the waist measurement to be 2-3 inches larger. I'm sure it also depends on the length of the jacket but I do like the waist to be pretty tight.

Yes... I think for a jacket like a halfbelt, about 4" would be perfect for me, but bike jackets typically would be a little snugger, in order to keep out the draft...

 

[Damo]

From amateur to amateur:
It took me quite a while (half a year) to figure out my measurements for my one and only leather jacket. I simply took the measurements from some of my best fitting jackets and did some tweaks in length and p2p. It also depends on what kind of fit you want. I desired a snug fit. You can see some fit pics here:
http://www.thefedoralounge.com/show...om-Aeronaut-In-Russet-Liberty-Horsehide/page3

They were taken one or two days in, it doesn’t look as snug anymore. I still think I could’ve gone a little shorter but that’s just my personal preference.

My actual chest is 41” and I took a 44.5” p2p in the jacket. Maybe 45” would be perfect but I can fit a very thick sweater underneath it now after some wear. And I can still wear it with a t-shirt without it looking baggy (that was important to me). The shoulders, IMO, are spot on. I’m 18.5” and that’s what I took.

I hope that helps a little.

I’m still very pleased with the jacket and think it’s perfect for me, not having the desire getting another one.

Listen to the others here, they really know what they’re doing! I started off with a desired p2p of 21.5”. That would have ended awful...

Thx for the advice. I really like your jacket, the colour is great and the fit is even better. Is BK out of the States?

 

[handymike]

no, they are in Greece.

 

[Timsum]

Thx for the info, when you gave Stuart your measurements did he make you a custom jacket or charge the same as a stock? I like the speed demon. Not sure if you've handled a schott 618hh but I'm wondering if speed demon is worth the extra money compared to the 618? I'm fairly confident I can pick up a new 618 for $500 whereas the speed demon costs $1100. The only fit issue with the schott is the waist is a few inches too big but that could be fixed by a tailor probably for $100.

Regarding measurements I believe I have them figured out. But I'm pretty confident that I can look at a size chart and know if its going to work or not. I'll have a better indication when I get my Johnson at the end of the month. Yes we used the cloth mock up with fit pics method.

Hi Damo,
When Stuart had my measurements for the Suburban, he recommended a custom jacket which is 25% premium. I also wanted some customisation which is included in the price. My other jackets, A2 and Ryder, Stuart recommended a stock size with just minor alteration ($100) done directly by LW.

If you like the Speed Demon, my suggestion is have a local tailor take the actual measurements for you. Send Stuart your measurements and let him know what you were wearing when the measurements were taken eg. a t-shirt or business shirt etc. He will then recommend if you should take the stock size or a custom size. I personally found it easier to speak with Stuart over the phone followed by an email to confirm the details.

You have to make the call if you want the Schott 618HH or the Speed Demon. I don't have any experience with Schott but I can say that a LW jacket is one tough SOB. Also with LW, you can specify the weight for the hide eg. 3.0 oz to 4.0 oz.

Hope you make the right decision and are happy with your purchase. Post pix when done!

 

[the loco]

I have 41" chest and usually buy jackets that are around 22.5 armpit to armpit. But it depends, on a number of factors ie how thick is the leather and what type of lining it has. I also has some classic style jackets that are much roomier.

 

[morrison2951]

Yep- 42" chest here and I prefer the 23" P2P fit myself.

 

[Peacoat]

I have 41" chest and usually buy jackets that are around 22.5 armpit to armpit. But it depends, on a number of factors ie how thick is the leather and what type of lining it has. I also has some classic style jackets that are much roomier.

Yes, the thickness of the hide alters the p2p measurement. The p2p on a heavy hide will give a different fit than the p2p on a light weight hide.

When stating the p2p, it should never be doubled, only given as the measurement across the chest. If the chest circumference is desired, then the actual circumference should be measured, not a doubled p2p. The reason for this is to reduce error. There frequently is error in taking the p2p measurement which is compounded by doubling the p2p. Plus, the distance from the p2p taken across one's chest is not always the same as the p2p measurement across one's back. So, for several reasons, it is best to give either the p2p (when measuring the jacket) or the chest circumference (when measuring one's own torso).

 

[AmericanIron]

It sounds like I may be the minority here but I have a 43 inch chest and my 618HH has a p2p measurement of 23 which feels perfect. I find that excess room in the chest/waist allows for layering but also for air to scoop either under or over and reduce the effectiveness of said layering. Just my two cents.