How many new jackets do you have coming (and how many potential ones)?

[navetsea]

Working on a custom C2 project with Vanson. Trying out some stock models for sizing. This is a 40 with the rayon lining. About 23” chest which is a bit big on me, and .5” bigger than expected from their measurements. Sleeves definitely too long, will probably ask for 1-1.5” off the final make. Really dig the shortness of it.

Thinking I might be between sizes a bit here. Maybe the quilted lining 40 or rayon lining 38 would work better?

Any feedback welcome!

View attachment 634369 View attachment 634370 View attachment 634371 View attachment 634372 View attachment 634373 View attachment 634375

even the neck hole is too big imo

 

[Monitor]

Working on a custom C2 project with Vanson. Trying out some stock models for sizing. This is a 40 with the rayon lining. About 23” chest which is a bit big on me, and .5” bigger than expected from their measurements. Sleeves definitely too long, will probably ask for 1-1.5” off the final make. Really dig the shortness of it.

Thinking I might be between sizes a bit here. Maybe the quilted lining 40 or rayon lining 38 would work better?

Any feedback welcome!

View attachment 634369 View attachment 634370 View attachment 634371 View attachment 634372 View attachment 634373 View attachment 634375

You're not between sizes. Get a 38 or even a 36. This fits you like some ridiculously gigantic jacket you'd try on for laughs.

 

[KBlake]

Vintage wool.

 

[IrishStu]

Vintage wool. View attachment 634602 View attachment 634603

That is nice. Simple but nice.

 

[Mrfrown]

I think a size 38 would suit you better, this looks too big in every dimension.

even the neck hole is too big imo

You're not between sizes. Get a 38 or even a 36. This fits you like some ridiculously gigantic jacket you'd try on for laughs.

Thanks yall I think I just needed to hear there wasn’t some prevailing wisdom that new Vansons look too big at first or something

 

[cbez]

yeah the midsection looks passable but the upper chest and sleeves look huge.

 

[javajakamama]

Another shot showing how big the back looks

Feels like sizing down is the way to go. Even if the chest is on the trimmer side, when the big arms should be plenty of space. Fingers crossed!

View attachment 634457

unless the pics are lying the font and back look pretty damn good for being bigger size. (outside of the long sleeves) you can tell it's more relaxed but there's still a pronounced taper and a good profile. plus your chest and biceps/arms aren't fighting back providing the safest articulation for riding. which is what i'm going through for more or less the second skin fit. it's tough sledding fully zipped for me.

 

[ton312]

Thanks yall I think I just needed to hear there wasn’t some prevailing wisdom that new Vansons look too big at first or something

In my experience some models run big, some run small. This is a “b” family jacket and the b’s run big. In the Model E I’m a solid 44”, can wear a 46”…a 42” or 40” is too small. In the b group I’m a 42” and the 44” feels a bit roomy, 46” is a tent.
I think a 38” probably is right for you but you could probably pull off a 36”. I can wear a 40” B and it looks cool but it’s t shirt/open only fit. That’s what you can expect from the C in a 36”, it’ll look cool and feel tight. But it will fit almost as tight as this 40” fits loose. Man I don’t even know if I fully understand what I just typed but it made sense at the time.

 

[ton312]

Wonder if they will eliminate ugly back seam if you beg.

I’m sure they could but then the jacket loses a degree of functionality. That seam combined with the way Vanson builds their shoulder gussets is precisely what separates Vanson from social media posing gear. It is designed to hug your back across the shoulders and right down your spine. That seam helps the jackets back follow the curvature of an human skeleton. And it does work. These jackets aren’t the same as those designed for guys who want to look like they ride but don’t.

 

[cbez]

I’m sure they could but then the jacket loses a degree of functionality. That seam combined with the way Vanson builds their shoulder gussets is precisely what separates Vanson from social media posing gear. It is designed to hug your back across the shoulders and right down your spine. That seam helps the jackets back follow the curvature of an human skeleton. And it does work. These jackets aren’t the same as those designed for guys who want to look like they ride but don’t.

I can understand how horizontal yokes and kidney panels can do so, but for the life of me I can't wrap my brain around a vertical central seam doing it.

Yokes and kidney panels divide and frame different shaped sections of the back (And allow for darting). A vertical seam only splits symmetrical sections (the two sides of your back).

IMO a cost cutting measure only to avoid having to find a large nice looking back panel piece. Same reason you see them on every dogshit fashion jacket.

 

[ton312]

I can understand how horizontal yokes and kidney panels can do so, but for the life of me I can't wrap my brain around a vertical central seam doing it.

Yokes and kidney panels divide and frame different shaped sections of the back (And allow for darting). A vertical seam only splits symmetrical sections (the two sides of your back).

IMO a cost cutting measure only to avoid having to find a large nice looking back panel piece. Same reason you see them on every dogshit fashion jacket.

Yokes and kidney panels are decorative. They do absolutely nothing at all. A center seam can allow for a jacket to fold in toward the spine and follow the natural curvature.
One piece back:

Center seam:

The idea that adding the seam is purely done as a cost saving mechanism has always made me laugh. No doubt it’s a common feature on cheap jackets. So are sleeves.

 

[AeroFan_07]

Since we seem to be discussing the center seam as can be observed on certain Vanson & Bates models, I thought I would add in a few quick photos of my Bates 2-pocket CR here. Bear in mind this was built likely between 1950-1960, so i find it pretty neat they were thinking this way when the jacket was designed.

My Bates came to me and even before I got it, I was reserved about the center seam area. Then it showed up, and honestly with the back yoke (in a western V shape) it really didn't look out of place on this design -


My jacket has the benefit of being un-lined, so you can see all the construction details right out in the open. As can be seen below, the center seam is an attachment point for an elastic band that runs from pit to pit. Being attached in the center, as this one is, helps keep this racing shirt jacket snugly against the fortunate owner of the jacket. The movement and fitment of this jacket is pretty fantastic. I can see why it was so popular with early motorcycle race teams.

 

[cbez]

Yokes and kidney panels are decorative. They do absolutely nothing at all. A center seam can allow for a jacket to fold in toward the spine and follow the natural curvature.
One piece back:
View attachment 635060
Center seam:
View attachment 635061
View attachment 635063
The idea that adding the seam is purely done as a cost saving mechanism has always made me laugh. No doubt it’s a common feature on cheap jackets. So are sleeves.

you're comparing apples to oranges, and your pics don't show anything that backs up your argument.

pic 1: dude is in some weird pose with his head tucked down, flaring out his upper back
pic 2: totally different pattern, different pose, and its not folded along the seam. you can find plenty of non center seam jackets bunching in the small of the back just like that.
pic 3: not folded along the seam, not doing anything a single piece wouldn't do

the idea that a thicker, stitched seam is somehow adding flexibility that a single layer of leather doesn't have doesn't really make sense. a single piece of leather also curves and folds.

 

[cbez]

Kidneys/yokes/belt, because of the stiffening and shaping, can encourage a fold if placed correctly. This one is correctly placed in marc's back and with the darting, encourages a more form fitting shape.

same here with a stiff kidney panel. it does not want to fold along the panel or especially on that seam, the fold is
pushed up into the single piece which is more supple.

and here, same thing accomplished with just the pattern, tapered back panels, and adjusters. no center seam in sight, because center seams dont do shit except save money.

one more to prove a point lol

 

[jacketjunkie]

I can understand how horizontal yokes and kidney panels can do so, but for the life of me I can't wrap my brain around a vertical central seam doing it.

Yokes and kidney panels divide and frame different shaped sections of the back (And allow for darting). A vertical seam only splits symmetrical sections (the two sides of your back).

IMO a cost cutting measure only to avoid having to find a large nice looking back panel piece. Same reason you see them on every dogshit fashion jacket.

I‘m with tony here. A leather seam does more than merely turning two slaps of leather into one. It also stiffens the leather along that seam because of the folded leather along the seam. Anyone breaking in a leather jacket will notice that areas with many seams are much stiffer and harder to break in because these seams give stability and pre-shape the area in a sense. Having a vertical seam down the centerline of the back stiffens the back panel along that seam and therefore stops the jacket from sticking out or billowing and rather giving room elsewhere. Tonys pictures show nicely how the HWM billows rather than sitting tight along the spine, as opposed to the other jackets. I notice it on my Vansons vs my one-piece JLs too. Definitely makes a difference in fit.

Besides, Vanson offers the Thunderbird which is pretty much the same jacket but with a one-piece-back at essentially tge same price which anyone could opt for alternatively, so cost-cutting is no strong argument.

Yokes and kidney panels do nothing for fit, they stiffen the jacket horizontally and while it may help accentuate a „broad shoulder“ look because the jacket will be nice and square there, kidney panels for looks certainly do nothing but make your jacket look like a cardboard box rather than shaping around your lower back (it is arguably extra protection though).

 

[jacketjunkie]

Just look at the pictures you posted yourself, all of them jackets fit very lose about the back, giving room and billowing and ofcourse this is picking apples vs whatever, bkt if you want a more accurate comparison, compare fit of Vanson Model B vs Vanson Enfield, identical jacket apart from Enfield having a one-piece back and you will notice the B sits better along the spine. (I would know, I own both of them)

 

[MrProper]

Kidneys/yokes/belt, because of the stiffening and shaping, can encourage a fold if placed correctly. This one is correctly placed in marc's back and with the darting, encourages a more form fitting shape.
View attachment 635066

same here with a stiff kidney panel. it does not want to fold along the panel or especially on that seam, the fold is
pushed up into the single piece which is more supple.
View attachment 635067
View attachment 635068
and here, same thing accomplished with just the pattern, tapered back panels, and adjusters. no center seam in sight, because center seams dont do shit except save money.

View attachment 635069
one more to prove a point lol

You don't have to like seams, but I can actually use them to shape inflexible material. For example, if I want an inwardly curved back that follows the curve of the spine, I can't do that with a single piece. It's like a shirt. If you want it to fit, it will have darts at the back.
This is only different with flexible material.

 

[bigmanbigtruck]

@Monitor did a really good illustration of how a seam can influence the shape of the back. The key is the shape of the pieces being connected.

If you just connected 2 straight edges together, then yeah it doesn’t do shit lol

 

[MrProper]

@Monitor did a really good illustration of how vertical seam can influence the shape of the back. The key is the shape of the pieces being connected.

If you just connected 2 straight edges together, then yeah it doesn’t do shit lol

Exactly that.
The seam of a sleeve can create a straight tube or a beautiful curved and tapered sleeve, depending on the shape of the pieces.
Unthinkable without seams (apart from the fact that you need them for sleeves anyway)

Edit: However, I have to add that with most leather jackets with back seams that I see in pictures, I believe that the same shape would have worked without seams.

 

[MickeyPunch]

cbez is really against center back seams (that’s fine, I don’t like chest pockets in center zip jackets, for example) but yeah saying they’re there only for cost cutting reasons is wrong IMO.