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How many new jackets do you have coming (and how many potential ones)?

ojaw

A-List Customer
Messages
350
Location
Winnipeg
View attachment 393583
Norshor Tweedy Cossack
Unlined horsehide, Brass Conmar.
Really nice work.
The one regret I have about my Double Helix is the cupro lining, why would they do that I wonder? I may contact a local place to investigate removal of the liner, without replacing it. It’s suede HH, so in my view perfect as an unlined jacket as the smooth bit is on the inside.
 

dudewuttheheck

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,403
Really nice work.
The one regret I have about my Double Helix is the cupro lining, why would they do that I wonder? I may contact a local place to investigate removal of the liner, without replacing it. It’s suede HH, so in my view perfect as an unlined jacket as the smooth bit is on the inside.
Yeah I've never understood cupro linings on jackets either. I'm surprised how many makers still do it honestly.
 

Marc mndt

I'll Lock Up
Messages
7,304
Yeah I've never understood cupro linings on jackets either. I'm surprised how many makers still do it honestly.

Do you mean cupro (recycled cotton) or satin (polyester / nylon), or both?

Why does it surprise you and why would it be bad?

These satin fabrics are great linings for summer jacket as they don't add any warmth. They make it easier to put a jacket on (as compared to unlined or a rougher fabric like cotton drill) and they're very durable.

9B4ECA51-A005-4C90-8A0D-A7C79ABFA823.jpeg
 

Carlos840

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,944
Location
London
View attachment 393583
Norshor Tweedy Cossack
Unlined horsehide, Brass Conmar.

Did you get one of each?
I had a black unlined one on order last year but sent it back.
Sizing was completely off, jacket fit like a bag, one size too large and all the measurements where 1 or 2" larger than what he had told me they where.
Stitching and construction was also pretty poor, lots of signs of things being stitched and then unstitched and restiched, empty stitch holes everywhere, puckering, i was really not impressed.
All that to say, i really hope he has improved his stuff since then and you are satisfied with the result.
I look forward to your fit pics.

Worst thing was that jacket was actually a remake, the first one he made was worst and he didn't even ship it, he messaged me saying " i made your jacket but i am not happy with the quality, if you want i can send you this one at cost, or make you a perfect remake". The remake was far from perfect.

Only good thing i had to say was that he was super easy to deal with.
I just messaged him saying the sizing was wrong and i was not impressed with the construction of the jacket, he just said "send it back" and gave me a full refund.
 

ojaw

A-List Customer
Messages
350
Location
Winnipeg
Do you mean cupro (recycled cotton) or satin (polyester / nylon), or both?

Why does it surprise you and why would it be bad?

These satin fabrics are great linings for summer jacket as they don't add any warmth. They make it easier to put a jacket on (as compared to unlined or a rougher fabric like cotton drill) and they're very durable.

View attachment 393716
Definitely cupro, at least according to DH.
I don’t like it for a few reasons - it goes on cold, quickly gets sweaty and I just generally prefer to stay away from synthetic fibres, or regenerated as some call cloth from this particular family.
 

Canuck Panda

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,666
Very nice! I do like Norshor jackets. The owner was on the forum when he started his work. I will have one someday.
I found his old threads and am really looking forward to this one. This 30s style looks really good. BTW, I copied your cats eye jacket. I couldn’t get that jacket out of my head once I saw it on your YouTube channel. It was just such great design I am surprised no one has repro it yet or more vintages available.


Did you get one of each?
I had a black unlined one on order last year but sent it back.
Sizing was completely off, jacket fit like a bag, one size too large and all the measurements where 1 or 2" larger than what he had told me they where.
Stitching and construction was also pretty poor, lots of signs of things being stitched and then unstitched and restiched, empty stitch holes everywhere, puckering, i was really not impressed.
All that to say, i really hope he has improved his stuff since then and you are satisfied with the result.
I look forward to your fit pics.

Worst thing was that jacket was actually a remake, the first one he made was worst and he didn't even ship it, he messaged me saying " i made your jacket but i am not happy with the quality, if you want i can send you this one at cost, or make you a perfect remake". The remake was far from perfect.

Only good thing i had to say was that he was super easy to deal with.
I just messaged him saying the sizing was wrong and i was not impressed with the construction of the jacket, he just said "send it back" and gave me a full refund.

Haha. Just one to start. I got a good feeling about it though. If it works out I would go back for a second in a different leather. This is the FDL after all. The photo was ripped from his Instagram account. I got quoted a 2 months lead time.

I also thought it was ballsy of him to make an unlined jacket. No lining covering up the imperfections. As long as the top stitch looks good on the grain side I’d be ok. It’d be interesting to see how he will deal with the blind stitches on the flesh side after your jackets with him.

The one he modelled himself was a size 46 with whopping 21” shoulders and 23.5” P2P. I’m the same height as him but leaner, so I asked for one size down, but also sent my measurements to him to let him fit me into one of his stock sizes.

This Cossack design is very appealing to me. Hope it works out. It’s assuring to know he stand behind his work and gave you full refund.
 

dudewuttheheck

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,403
Do you mean cupro (recycled cotton) or satin (polyester / nylon), or both?

Why does it surprise you and why would it be bad?

These satin fabrics are great linings for summer jacket as they don't add any warmth. They make it easier to put a jacket on (as compared to unlined or a rougher fabric like cotton drill) and they're very durable.

View attachment 393716
I was referring to recycled cotton cupro, though I dislike polyester as well. In addition, I do not like cotton drill either. I've gotten fairly picky with my liners. Cupro doesn't feel comfortable to me and polyester feels cheap and sticky. I've had a silk lined jacket and polyester just feels like a cheap imitation. If I'm going for fake silk, I much prefer rayon.

At this point my favorite lining by far is full cotton flannel lining. Super soft and comfortable.

I'm surprised people still use them both when they feel so cheap and there are more comfortable lining materials out there like wool body liners, cotton flannel, and if you want something silky, then silk or rayon.
 

tmitchell59

I'll Lock Up
Messages
7,719
Location
Illinois
This one looks similar to the one you just bought. Different label and chest pocket zipper pulls. Cuffs look like they've been shortened on this one.

View attachment 393904

Thanks! Yes that is the Cat's Eye. True 50s edition with the red quilt lining. I had not seen this picture. Has something of the look of your Chrome Tanned Steerhide. Yes, very much like that jacket. Both Californians easily from the same time frame.
 

El Marro

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,591
Location
California
There are some interesting differences, but the older version is also slightly less practical? '47 Columbia pockets are angled differently and have a little less space, there is visible stitching for the pocket as well, sleeve zips are on underside rather than side, the collar is more pointy shape, there's a leather hang loop in collar they tell you not to hang it on, plus the squared off back bottom and no bi-swing. They were doing Crown main zip on '47 version at first, not sure if they still are. Others who have gotten one may know about more differences.
I think the Crown zip has always been an (expensive) option that one can spec. I opted for the ‘47 style pockets on mine but without the top stitching and it’s true they are comically small, I don’t even think I can get my hands fully inside them.
 

Mrfrown

One Too Many
Messages
1,643
I think the Crown zip has always been an (expensive) option that one can spec. I opted for the ‘47 style pockets on mine but without the top stitching and it’s true they are comically small, I don’t even think I can get my hands fully inside them.

Interesting, sounds both comical and frustrating. The angle does look nice though.

I'd like to have a Crown zip at some point but I'm really looking forward to all that brass hardware for this one
 

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