How high the armhole?

[Nick D]

This high! I found this at www.cutterandtailor.com and thought it may be of interest.

 

[Matt Deckard]

It's all about the armholes.

 

[dakotanorth]

armholes and books

That picture comes from the book "Classic Tailoring Techniques" which is one of the finest books I've ever owned.
Keep in mind, that book was published in the 1980's, long after the "classic era" of suits. This means that some people hung onto the traditional methods rather than cutting corners and making it cheaper! That's good news, no?

 

[Matt Deckard]

I always look back at the 80s as the good old days.

 

[Mid-fogey]

It's interesting...

…what you are oblivious about. I always hated high armholes because they made the jacket awkward to put on.

I remember in particular the dress and full dress blouses we were issued as cadets. These all had very high armholes because you had to be able to execute the manual of arms while wearing them. I also had some older sport coats that were the same way. Once you had them on, you hardly noticed them. I don’t think I have a single high armhole jacket of any type these days.

I really notice the low armholes in my current jackets while driving home. My sleeves ride up my arm whenever I lift them.

 

[Creeping Past]

I always hated high armholes because they made the jacket awkward to put on.

That's been the viewpoint of a couple of tailors I've asked to make me jackets with high armholes. My response was: I want to be comfortable wearing it, so I'm not that bothered about being perfectly comfortable while putting it on and taking it off...

 

[Creeping Past]

Do you wear your suit jacket in the car? Do you wear it in the office? If you do manual labor, do you wear it?

Counter-question: do you want to be comfortable when wearing a jacket?

Everywhere is air conditioned and heated these days.

Spend time in the British Isles and you might think different.

You don't need to wear a jacket in any context where you'd be swinging your arms around. And 2/3s of us are fat now, so we're covered with a heating layer of blubber. So high armpits are obsolete.

I doubt the 2/3 fat statement. Anyway, it doesn't matter if you're fat or thin. The point is that the garment industry uses large/low armholes because they assume the lowest common denominator re: body shape. Hence everyone gets to wear the fat man's jacket. And still no one's comfortable. We might as well do as you say and discard the jacket altogether and make it 100% easier for the lazy garment industry to clothe us. [huh]

Factors like how easy it is to put the jacket on thus wear heavier in the calculus than in the past.

Sounds like you've been well trained by the lazy, lowest common denominator-obsessed men's garment industry.

Have you ever worn a jacket with high armholes? If you don't like them, fine. Don't use them. But why try to back up your personal choice with ill-founded claims regarding their utility?

 

[Mid-fogey]

I do think...

...there is at least some argument for low armholes for those few men who still routinely wear coat and tie. Most of us take our coats off when we get to work and really don't "live" in the jackets.

 

[Creeping Past]

I understand the argument, but can't see why you'd be at all concerned about how the jacket fits when you're not wearing it... if you get my drift.

The point is surely whether it's comfortable when worn. If it's more comfortable to work or sit around without a jacket on, that's another thing entirely... and has nothing to do with how the jacket's constructed.

Edit: Personally, I eschew the traditional jacket-and-trousers combo and opt for a muumuu when working, but that's just me.

 

[Feraud]

I understand the argument, but can't see why you'd be at all concerned about how the jacket fits when you're not wearing it... if you get my drift.

The point is surely whether it's comfortable when worn. If it's more comfortable to work or sit around without a jacket on, that's another thing entirely... and has nothing to do with how the jacket's constructed.

Bingo!

If I had to wear a jacket for five minutes a day, I want to be comfortable for those five minutes. That goes for a jacket, pants, or shoes.

Many people commute to work using mass transportation. That involves standing for a period of time holding on rails with your arms raised.

Yes I wear a jacket while driving. Who doesn't?.. those who wear low armhole sportcoats.

 

[Hemingway Jones]

I wear suits night and day and nearly constantly at work.

I would prefer high armholes so I can move properly while wearing my jacket. The good news as I see it, is if you avoid Ralph Lauren, you can find a lot of high armholes production suits these days, much more than at any point in the last 25 years. Alfani, Calvin Klein, even Tommy Hilfiger. The cuts are much better lately, ever since the Mad Men influence has filtered down. The Mod suit is the nearly the norm.

 

[57plymouth]

I usher at my church. That means I collect the offering. Believe it or not, it is possible to have your coat ride up enough to look like an idiot to the people on the rows you are assisting. For me, that's 1/3 to 1/2 of the congregation at a large church.

Even for the off-the-rack junk I have now, I move my arms when I try the jacket on to make sure I feel comfortable in the garment before I buy it.

 

[Tomasso]

if you avoid Ralph Lauren, you can find a lot of high armholes production suits these days

His Purple Label jackets have pretty high armholes as do many of the jackets offered by high end Italian makers like Brioni, Kiton, Luciano Barbera, etc.....

 

[Derek WC]

You don't need to be able to move your arms in a suit these days.

If you're a scarecrow, than yes.

Do you wear your suit jacket in the car? Do you wear it in the office? If you do manual labor, do you wear it?

Yes, yes, and yes.

Everywhere is air conditioned and heated these days. You don't need to wear a jacket in any context where you'd be swinging your arms around. And 2/3s of us are fat now, so we're covered with a heating layer of blubber. So high armpits are obsolete.

Just about every October I go hunting on a frigidly cold mountain, and with hunting come the need to move your arms around, so that is why one would wear a tweed shooting coat with high armholes. Low armholes would severely effect accuracy.

 

[Bruce Wayne]

I want to chime in here. My first suit was bought at The Men's Wearhouse several years back. And I thought it was great at the time. Recently, I purchased & recieved a Magnoli Dillinger suit & one of his Professor sport coats. The difference between the former & the latter is night & day! It makes me wonder how anyone can survive wearing a low armhole suit in this day & age.

 

[Richard Warren]

I don't find my low armhole jackets uncomfortable at all. If I want to engage in an activity during which they might restrict my movement, I remove them and sometimes other items of clothing as well.

The real problem with modern mass produced suits is all the extra material around the middle.

 

[Tomasso]

The real problem with modern mass produced suits is all the extra material around the middle.

But that can be tailored away, whereas low armholes can not.

 

[Mike in Seattle]

And were high arm hole suits and sportcots more readily available, would perhaps more be inclined to wear them at the office, store and elsewhere? Back in the day, I don't think temperature was as big a factor as you might think. If it was hot - off came the jacket until a customer or client came in. And then back on as a sign of respect for the customer.

How can wearing uncomfortable, ill-fitting attire be considered progress, better or modern?

 

[MisterGrey]

Possibly a bit off-topic, but does anyone else find that their mobility while driving is lessened by a buttoned double-breasted jacket? I have two DB jackets I've had tailored, and have found I need to unbutton them in order to drive, lest I simultaneously reduce the amount of space I can move my arms and risk ripping the jacket wide open.

 

[Bruce Wayne]

Possibly a bit off-topic, but does anyone else find that their mobility while driving is lessened by a buttoned double-breasted jacket? I have two DB jackets I've had tailored, and have found I need to unbutton them in order to drive, lest I simultaneously reduce the amount of space I can move my arms and risk ripping the jacket wide open.

I see no issue with unbuttoning a DB jacket while driving or sitting. Even in the Golden Era, I Believe it was acceptable to have a DB suit unbuttoned while sitting, but it should always be buttoned while standing.