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How High Should a Hat Sit?

Visigoth

A-List Customer
Messages
458
Location
Rome
Okay, I'm battling this one in my mind. I know that the standard measuring advice is between a quarter and a half inch above the ears. Some of my hats seem to look much better higher up than that -- maybe an inch. All seems to depend on the shape. Mind you, I have a shaved head -- this probably makes a difference, in terms of what I can get away with.

Also, the custom seems to have changed from decade to decade: the turn of the century had them riding really high; current stingy wearers seem to like them high as well.

(Trying to justify holding onto some of my slightly small hats.)
 

Matt Deckard

Man of Action
Messages
10,045
Location
A devout capitalist in Los Angeles CA.
You want a hat that doesn't bind when worn... something you don't have to tug off your head as with time such a tight hat will cause headache. You also don't want the hat falling over your ears.

With modern hats, if you feel you are in between sizes it is better to go for the larger size. I know you may think you want a snug fit that won't blow away in a gust, though hat leathers tend to get tighter over time with the expansion from moisture then drying out constantly. Modern day felt shrinks.

At least that is what I wrote in the hat basics
 

DOUGLAS

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,777
Location
NYC
I wear most hats cocked to one side. It is a natural placement for me. One side almost sits on the ear and the other about an inch or so.
 

Mulceber

Practically Family
Messages
757
Location
Ann Arbor, Michigan
I wear mine rather low; barely a pinky's width between the hat and my ear, and I'm quite happy with the look. I personally think an Indiana Jones hat looks good if it's a tad big. -Mulceber
 

feltfan

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,190
Location
Oakland, CA, USA
Keep in mind that different hats are designed to
ride in different ways. An Open Road should ride
a tiny bit higher than your average fedora. Cooler
that way.

I am not disappointed if a very wide brim hat is a
touch tight. After you see one of your favorite hats
fly under a moving car, you may feel the same way.
 

Hemingway Jones

I'll Lock Up
Bartender
Messages
6,099
Location
Acton, Massachusetts
Hats are elements of style. Put it on your head and see how it feels. Most of mine fit above the ears. Tilt a hat at a rakish angle and it becomes less of an issue.

If you feel a hat pressing on your temples when you chew, it is too tight.
 

PutALidOnIt

One of the Regulars
Messages
182
Location
Sunny Florida
Different Strokes...

I notice that there are many small differences in the "comfort zone" (fitting but not too snug) from one lid to another, even of the same size, depending upon the diameter (given), the amont of taper in the sweatband, and minor variations in positioning. I don't want to sound overly analytical here (too late?), but depending upon the shape of your gourd, different hats will want to sit in different ways, comfort-wise. I consider myself a 7 1/4 L.O. because I have a couple of old Stetsons in that size that just feel luxurious at any angle. But, I can really get a jaunty angle from the several non - L.O. 1.4's from the rack, and if I place one of my stretched 1/8's high on the forehead and down in the back (a la George Reeves as Clark Kent), they are comfortable and still fitting enough to not blow off in a decent breeze.

On the downside, I just can't get any homburg to look right, even with a tux...I think TonyTarzana set the bar high on that one...:D
 

Visigoth

A-List Customer
Messages
458
Location
Rome
And what about having the top touch the top of your head?

I find that anything but a domed bash (c-crown, whatever) generally has the hat making contact. And often more than contact: I push up a small dome in the center.
 

Mitral

New in Town
Messages
24
Location
Twin Cities
In my quest to rekindle old threads instead of creating new threads, this one has some merit. I am trying to decide on crown height. I am somewhat conscious regarding to much crown height. However, to little crown height has much head pushing back on the center crease. Perhaps I should go tall on the crown height and let the center crease bring it back down to an acceptable wearing height without my head pushing the crease out.

I sure wish there was a shop that I could experiment with multiple crown heights before I spend $400+ on these hats....
 

jlee562

I'll Lock Up
Messages
5,101
Location
San Francisco, CA
Mistral, I guess I'm confused as to your query? This thread is discussing where the hat sits in one's head, not the height of the crown per se. A hat that is slightly large can sit lower on the head, which would affect the space between the top of one's head and the liner, as can crown height. A teardrop, c crown, or diamond crease takes up more felt of a taller crowned hat as well.
 

B.J. Hedberg

Practically Family
Messages
528
Location
Minnesota
In my quest to rekindle old threads instead of creating new threads, this one has some merit. I am trying to decide on crown height. I am somewhat conscious regarding to much crown height. However, to little crown height has much head pushing back on the center crease. Perhaps I should go tall on the crown height and let the center crease bring it back down to an acceptable wearing height without my head pushing the crease out.

I sure wish there was a shop that I could experiment with multiple crown heights before I spend $400+ on these hats....

I would recommend picking yourself up a Federation IV or a Campdraft. You’d end up with a durable hat you don’t have to worry about, and one that you can easily play with to determine how much crown you need for a good fit before investing in a custom. For me, anything less than 5 1/2” just wouldn’t work fit/style wise as I prefer to have them fit one finger above the ear on one side, two to three on the other, and have the back sitting atop the old head. It took picking up both a Campdraft and a 6 1/4" Beaver Brand to figure out where I like to wear it and what crown height I needed to do that and still style it correctly (even if I rarely get it exactly how I want it). Now when I someday quit spending all my money at the print shop I’ll be finally ready to get that perfect custom.:D
 

Mitral

New in Town
Messages
24
Location
Twin Cities
My concern is also discussed in these threads.

http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?38201-How-High-Should-a-Fedora-Sit/page4

http://www.thefedoralounge.com/show...wn-of-the-hat-not-touching-your-hair.../page3

We often discuss the creasing or "bashing" of the crown. We measure the diameter. Round, Oval or Long Oval. We measure the brim. What I haven't found a whole lot of is the distance from where your sweatband sits to the top apex of your head and that relationship to the crown. I think I have a taller than normal head from sweatband to top. If I crease the hat and put the hat on, my head pushed out the crease and again becomes an open crown. To prevent this, I was thinking if I had a taller crown, I would be able to crease it to my liking. Without trying on the exact same hat with different crown heights, I'll never know............
 
Messages
10,524
Location
DnD Ranch, Cherokee County, GA
How high a hat sits is another factor about symmetry. What looks good is "in balance". Look up the "golden ratio" or phi to see the artistic explanation. Your head & face determine where a hat should sit to be "in balance" from brim to chin & brim to top of the crown.
In other words, everybody is different based on head size & face shape.... You need to figure out what feels & looks good on you then go accordingly.
Modern hats are too low crown & those suggested below are going back to older styles that give you much more crown to work with.
There is no set measurement of how high or how low. How you like a hat to sit above the eyebrow & above the ear are based on you, nobody else.
 

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