How do you get custom shoulder width?

[sshack]

I noticed on the Alexander website that you can specify shoulder width. How exactly does this work? For example, if I ask for a size 44, but with 18" shoulders, doesn't that size 44 pattern dictate the width of the shoulders (from seam to seam)? I don't have 18" shoulders, but just curious how this custom sizing works.

In other words, can either a size 38 or a size 44 both have the same shoulder width?

 

[ButteMT61]

Ask them. Makes no sense to ask "us" as we're not putting them together...

 

[Capesofwrath]

I think that size drop down box is meant to be your body measurements not the jacket measurements.

 

[Hide'n'seek]

I would love to know the same !

 

[Carlos840]

I think any pattern can be adapted to fit shoulder width! Just measure a jacket that fits you well and ask for the same shoulder to shoulder measurement.

I have a 42" chest with a very V shaped frame and need 20" shoulders seam to seam. Most size 42 jackets have between 18" and 19" which is impossible for me to fit in.
On top of that i have a really thin waist and need a 20" bottom hem.
When i ordered my Lewis leather they had no problem modifying the pattern to suite me, no extra charge.

I ordered an A2 from Bill Kelso (still not received) and although it took a bit of convincing and an extra charge they accepted to modifie the pattern to fit my shoulders.

This is not a problem for Alexander either.

On the other hand, when i asked Aero, they told me the patterns could not be modified and if i wanted 20" shoulder to shoulder i would have to order a size 46, which as you can imagine isn't really a solution...
No Aero for me!

Fit pics of the LL:

http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?74729-Lewis-Leathers-Dominator-No-551

 

[sshack]

Carlos, your LL jacket is one of the best fits/silhouettes I've seen for a traditional 50's/roadster/highwayman style jacket.

I'm still learning about pattern construction, but I suspected there were ways to adjust or scale a specific pattern size. Surprised Aero told you that a size 46 would give you 20" shoulders. I have a size 42 Highwayman with 20" shoulders.

 

[Carlos840]

Carlos, your LL jacket is one of the best fits/silhouettes I've seen for a traditional 50's/roadster/highwayman style jacket.

I'm still learning about pattern construction, but I suspected there were ways to adjust or scale a specific pattern size. Surprised Aero told you that a size 46 would give you 20" shoulders. I have a size 42 Highwayman with 20" shoulders.

Thanks a lot, really appreciate.
It was my first LL but not my last, i really want one of their off center zipper model to, not sure when or which one, but i will get a second one someday.

Back then i was looking for an A2, which have a habit of having really narrow shoulders.

It's weird yours is hat wide, because every sales jacket in size 42 i have enquired about on the Aero website had 18" to 19" shoulders...
They were also against tapering the bottom hem, which means that most of their jackets would be a baggy mess on me, especially something like a highwayman!


But then, since i lost hope about ever getting an Aero that fits me i have heard of a few people getting custom patterns, things that were refused when i asked for them a year ago. So maybe the policy is changing. It's almost like after Ken came back (this was just happening when i asked) he was refusing all alterations to patterns, and now he is open to them again.

 

[Jeff M]

Different manufacturers may take measurements for their jackets differently.
The best luck I've had is to measure a leather jacket I already have that fits the way I like and send those measurements to the jacket maker.
Here too, not all makers measure the same.
Best to ask them how they want their measurements taken. and ask for pictures/diagrams if necessary.

 

[sshack]

Different manufacturers may take measurements for their jackets differently.
The best luck I've had is to measure a leather jacket I already have that fits the way I like and send those measurements to the jacket maker.
Here too, not all makers measure the same.
Best to ask them how they want their measurements taken. and ask for pictures/diagrams if necessary.

That's sound advice, but no guarantee. My first Highwayman I ordered (old regime) was given all those measurements and it was a baggy mess.

 

[Jeff M]

That's sound advice, but no guarantee. My first Highwayman I ordered (old regime) was given all those measurements and it was a baggy mess.

Had the same happen to me a couple of times now.
Short of going in for a fitting....then one or more during the jacket construction, I know of no way to guarantee fit.