Horween Chromexel Steer not dyed all the way through

[pipvh]

"Do not do unto others as you would have them do unto you...you may not have the same tastes."

GB Shaw

Thank you, George Bernard - I believe you also said, when asked about Horween CXL, that 'beauty is a short-lived tyranny.'

 

[Sloan1874]

12 pages almost on the durabillity of Horween CXL ..

1. I would have no concerns re. durabillity of CXL ... it has almost 100 years of history behind it ...... it's track record as both a motorcycle leather material and also a workwear material is clear.

2. The look / feel and wear of Horwen CXL is almost unique in the leather industry ... there are many similars but no identical leathers ..... this is the legacy of Horween.

It's horses for courses .. many people I have shown Horween leather jackets to have commented on how heavy, stiff and thick it is compared to modern thinner and lighter hides. It's horses ( or cows) for courses ..... there are many leathers out there and more than enough to satisfy any taste / preference. Many on here love the heritage and pedigree of Horween CXL ... and purchase it accordingly, you pays yer money and takes yer choice.

HTH

+1

 

[FredS]

Back to fit: It has been my experience that the custom jackets from Scotland are built for a trim fit. Sometimes the fit is such that even a thin sweater is more than can be worn underneath. If you want a looser fit, to layer a sweater for instance, let them know. Otherwise, it may be a tighter fit than you were expecting.

Good advice thanks. I sent them the following measurements in which I took account of the fit by mentioning that my chest and waist measurements were taken over a thick wintershirt and that my shoulder and arm measurements were taken off my brothers jacket while I was wearing it and which fits me perfectly. I hope and trust that they will be able to work according to that to make me the perfect fitting jacket.

 

[FredS]

12 pages almost on the durabillity of Horween CXL ..

As you say .. the CXL Steer .. in black / burgandy / brown ... or any other colour for that matter ... is hand applied and surface dyed ( not vat dipped but hand applied to the finished surface of the leather).

The base leather is dark brown and chrome tanned ( as opposed to veg tanned) ..... this results in a VERY hard wearing natural coloured hide which has a topcoat of pigment dye. Not only will it scrape of ( if you fall off your bike for example exposing the brown hide base layer) but equally it wears off with age and will also show some exposure when the jacket is assembled in corners etc. THIS IS NOT A FLAW ... just a feature of the hide ( and this is almost identical to the FQHH process with minor changes in treatment oils and fats).

(Note the veg tanned process results in a deep penetrtive dye since this is a vat soaked process ... so if you look at the suedded layer / back side of the leather it's black / brown / burgundy as per the front)

It wears very well ... and the colours wear in a unique and subtle fashion. The coulour doesnt crack or split but rather high points wear through exposing the brown base layer. If this is an issue it can easilly be touched up with either boot / shoe polish or leather dye ... although I've never had the need / inclination.

Note most chrome tanned leathers are the same .... aand likewise veg tanned ...... there are some vat diped chrome tanned leathers but these are few and far between.

Some high level points :

1. I would have no concerns re. durabillity of CXL ... it has almost 100 years of history behind it ...... it's track record as both a motorcycle leather material and also a workwear material is clear.

2. The look / feel and wear of Horwen CXL is almost unique in the leather industry ... there are many similars but no identical leathers ..... this is the legacy of Horween.

It's horses for courses .. many people I have shown Horween leather jackets to have commented on how heavy, stiff and thick it is compared to modern thinner and lighter hides. It's horses ( or cows) for courses ..... there are many leathers out there and more than enough to satisfy any taste / preference. Many on here love the heritage and pedigree of Horween CXL ... and purchase it accordingly, you pays yer money and takes yer choice.

HTH

Right on all points except: Horweens Chromexel is as you say Chrome tanned in a drum or vat but what you did not add is that it is then also veg tanned in a drum or vat. It is actually one of the few or only leathers that undergoes both processes. After the initial chrome tanning the hides are what is called "wet blue" due to the blue color they now have from the chrome tanning. The veg tanning gives it the brownish base color. There after it is hand dyed.
http://horween.com/101/chromexcel-2/

 

[Plumbline]

It is actually one of the few or only leathers that undergoes both processes. After the initial chrome tanning the hides are what is called "wet blue" due to the blue color they now have from the chrome tanning. The veg tanning gives it the brownish base color. There after it is hand dyed.

It's not unique in this .... Wet Blue is generally considered unfinished leather.

What is unique is HOW it is both Chrome and finished (Veg tanned and oiled) i.e what the constituents Horween use for the tanning liquors and also the oils / fats / waxes used for the post tanning processes. I have seen a dozen or so Chrome Tanned horse and steer hides ... from various tanneries and all except a couple have been hand / surface dyed ( no vat dying .. except one Chinese sampleand one Eastern European sample).

HTH

 

[Cyber Lip]

Looks like it might have occurred from seat belt harness rub?

Our manly leathers are acquiring their wear from things like wearing safety belts...what have we become :cry:

 

[ButteMT61]

Our manly leathers are acquiring their wear from things like wearing safety belts...what have we become :cry:

Metrosexual men who have 8 pages of bickering about hide under said belts. :eusa_doh: lol

 

[HoosierDaddy]

Only real men wear HH. Who wants to wear a cow..or GOAT for cripes sakes. Think about it...
HD

 

[scrawlysteve]

Speak for yourself Butte --- I do not bicker, neither is there any wear on my jackets from namby-pamby seatbelts.....there is a little bit though from my dinky little man-bag.....

 

[HoosierDaddy]

Speak for yourself Butte --- I do not bicker, neither is there any wear on my jackets from namby-pamby seatbelts.....there is a little bit though from my dinky little man-bag.....

You might be able to touch that up with a few well placed sequins, scrawly.

 

[scrawlysteve]

Thanks HD--lovely idea, but I might go for Swarowski crystals--I don't want to look cheap...

 

[HoosierDaddy]

Thanks HD--lovely idea, but I might go for Swarowski crystals--I don't want to look cheap...

If it goes with the glitter eye makeup I say..why the hell not...:rockon:

 

[scrawlysteve]

Indeedy, do you think this is one of the customisations Aero might give the nod to ?

 

[HoosierDaddy]

Indeedy, do you think this is one of the customisations Aero might give the nod to ?

Not sure. I would suggest trying Stuart at Lost Worlds.

 

[scrawlysteve]

Yes, he seems the sort of chap who might well be sympatico. Thanks for the help.

 

[ButteMT61]

I like the new direction this has taken. Well, at least I'm laughing now

 

[HoosierDaddy]

One page of laughs..then back to another 15 of 'not being dyed all the way through'.

 

[devilish]

So, am I reading this right? The OP wants a black jacket that will stay black but is not convinced the Horween leather he was sent will do that because it's only surface dyed not dyed all the way through?

 

[HoosierDaddy]

You might really be on to something there,devilish..!!

 

[Sloan1874]

It's de ja vu all over again...