Horse Hide Jerky?

[K-Pants]

i would very much appreciate any info on what Horsehide Jerky is. I have seen it mentioned by a couple of leather jacket brands and the description from these brands is vague.

How is it different from other horse hide?
What are it's properties?

Any data is appreciated. Thanks!

 

[Sloan1874]

Jerky is the name given to leather that comes with an uneven texture and grain - stretch marks, creases, scars. The vast majority of jackets use A-grade, smooth and unmarked leather. Jerky is used in A-2 jackets generally to replicate wartime production, when every last scrap of leather was used, regardless of its physical imperfections.

 

[Plumbline]

This was an Aero leathers term @mid 00's to describe a grainy and slightly shiney type of horsehide they sourced as a cheaper alternative to CXL and other premium HH grades. Rumour had it at the time that it was called "jerky" at the time because of its visible similarity to " beef jerky". This
Is not a description I've ever heard used by any tannery ( including Horween)

 

[K-Pants]

Thanks for the info! Is it lighter? More pliable?

 

[Otter]

I had a test sample jacket in this about 11 years ago. As I remember, weight wise it is about the same as the normal horse hide. Where it really differed was in the character of the hide. As has been said it has creases, random grainy patches abound smoother areas. Mine was a light russet brown and I would still have it now but it was quite a narrow pattern and became too tight across my shoulders. Shame as it had a pair of embroidered Natonalist Chinese wings as well as a layered leather unofficial flying tiger.

 

[K-Pants]

It sounds interesting, having different textures on one jacket.

 

[Fanch]

My Aero Mulligan is made from mid weight seal (dark brown) jerky HH, and honestly said I am more impressed with the overall Mulligan pattern than I am the jerky HH. I particlarly love the design and function of the large cargo pockets on my Mulligan. If Vicenza (Italian) HH had been available at the time, I would have gone with the Vicenza in a heartbeat over the jerky. The feel, look, and drape of Vicenza is IMHO far better than the jerky and is worth way more than the modest upcharge. Of the four Vicenza choices, the seal Vicenza is, to my eye, the richest of the four colors. Just my personal take on the situation and am certain that opinions of others will differ from mine.

 

[Edgar Laurel]

I'm about to order an A2 from Aero and just had some questions about the hide.
I forwarded an email to Aero in order to clear some of my doubts, I wanted a russet hide and my preference goes for one that has kind of a reddish tone. Just asked them if their jerky HH had that kind of tone.
Anyone here that could help shed some light about this specific question?

 

[AdeeC]

I'm about to order an A2 from Aero and just had some questions about the hide.
I forwarded an email to Aero in order to clear some of my doubts, I wanted a russet hide and my preference goes for one that has kind of a reddish tone. Just asked them if their jerky HH had that kind of tone.
Anyone here that could help shed some light about this specific question?

I have an Aero A-2 in russet jerky horsehide. I can confirm it does have a rich reddish brown tone. I would suggest to go for the real deal leather option for extra character.

 

[Edgar Laurel]

I have an Aero A-2 in russet jerky horsehide. I can confirm it does have a rich reddish brown tone. I would suggest to go for the real deal leather option for extra character.

That was my first thought, now i'm pretty much hesitant between the "Real Deal" option and the Bronco.

 

[AdeeC]

That was my first thought, now i'm pretty much hesitant between the "Real Deal" option and the Bronco.

I believe you can have the 'real deal' in any contract.

 

[Edgar Laurel]

I believe you can have the 'real deal' in any contract.

Thought they used only the Aero USAAF 42-15142-P contract as a base for the "Real Deal" option.

 

[Edgar Laurel]

I'll just ask them if they can do the "Real Deal" using the Bronco contract given the fact that it seems to be a more fitted jacket.

 

[Cooperson]

I had a new Aero mid weight russet jerky half belt but I let it go. The hide was nice enough but the finish had a almost painted look about it and even after much wetting I could never get the collar to hold a shape.

 

[AdeeC]

I had a new Aero mid weight russet jerky half belt but I let it go. The hide was nice enough but the finish had a almost painted look about it and even after much wetting I could never get the collar to hold a shape.

May not be to everyone's taste but I find the russet horsehide used by Aero almost identical to my original Dubow A-2 both in colour and finish. Personally I like it. I don't think I would buy a civie jacket in it. Much more suitable for the A-2.

 

[Edgar Laurel]

May not be to everyone's taste but I find the russet horsehide used by Aero almost identical to my original Dubow A-2 both in colour and finish. Personally I like it. I don't think I would buy a civie jacket in it. Much more suitable for the A-2.

I think it is an absolutely lovely shade of russet. Not for all jackets indeed.

 

[Fanch]

Why not order a Bronco with russet Vicenza HH? My Sheene is made from russet Vicenza, and if I were to order an A-2 I would go with russet Vicenza (or seal Vicenza).

 

[AdeeC]

I'll just ask them if they can do the "Real Deal" using the Bronco contract given the fact that it seems to be a more fitted jacket.

I like the real deal leather as it has a lot of variation and character. Aero don't just assemble it willy nilly. They assemble the panels with the rougher bits oriented to the top of the body and sleeve panels which makes every jacket unique and aesthetically pleasing.

 

[BobJ]

I have only one leather jacket, and I wear it a lot. It is made from the seal jerky horsehide that both Aero and Simmons Bilt use. It is sourced from an English tannery. When I read what others are saying about their Jerky hh, my mouth falls open and I find myself scratching my head - are we talking about the same stuff?!

I've had my jacket about four years now, and can't remember if there was any stiffness or breaking-in process. I can't remember any... but that doesn't mean there wasn't some - I'm an old gent and my memory isn't as infallible as I used to think it was! But as long as I can remember, the leather has been soft, supple, and comfortable. It couldn't stand up on its own if you dangled a bottle of fresh yummy Pecards above it!

Jerky, by definition, means the parts of the hide with more grain... and boy does my jacket have it. Panel to panel, arm to arm, under the collar to on top of the collar, cuff to cuff, front to back, right to left, and top to bottom - you will find every kind of grain you can imagine - from smooth to less grainy on the larger body panels, to gloriously grainy on the sleeves and collar. It's what gives the jacket organic character, and is why I like it so much. I realize it's not everyone's cup of tea though. Some people think smooth, uniform, and perfectly matched leather panels denote high quality and luxury. In some cases that may be... but it is at the expense of character.

There is a spectrum of leather surfaces from the smooth and featureless, to the pebbly, textured, and grainy. Both ends of the spectrum can be from cheap or expensive hides, and both are valued by different people for different reasons.

I have an eight dollar black biker wallet that was made in India. It is cheap - the stitching came apart in the first week, so I took it to a cobbler and had the whole thing re-sewn with strong thread. The thread was cheap and the leather is cheap. But the leather looks smooth, with no visible grain, like the finest hand-selected cowhide you'd find on a high-end Lewis Leathers jacket. That's because the grain has been "corrected" by having the top layer shaved off and imitation grain stamped into the leather with high pressure, high heat, and chemical polymers. Corrected grain is a feature of cheaper leather, cheaper shoes, and the uniformity of mass-market mall jackets.

You can also stamp a textured, pebbly surface onto cheap leather, but it will be a small, repeating pattern, not the living variation of true Jerky.

Aero and SB Jerky hh has a top-coat that is NOT designed to wear off prematurely, or age quickly. In time, it does wear off the high points and areas of greatest wear and abrasion - like where the seatbelt rubs. I have done minor touch-ups with dark brown leather dye and shoe polish. It kinda works... for a while... but I finally came to feel like King Canute trying to hold back the incoming tide, and have begun to let the jacket show its age... just like its owner.

My jacket has been in plenty of rain, fog, salt spray, mist, and stiff wind... and it's as comfortable as a dense and heavy baby blanket. After the first time I got caught in the rain in it, I hung it on a wide hanger and shaped the collar - it has been perfect ever since.

One thing I like about leather jackets, is that if you spill something on it, you don't have to worry about a stain or dry cleaning or laundering - you just wipe it off. I've wiped off everything from baby puke and dog slobber, to salsa and spaghetti sauce, without any bother to the jacket at all. It just considers it a snack until its next meal of fresh yummy Pecards! Which it's actually only had once in four years - about two months ago.

Speaking of Pecards, they have two different kinds. One is oil based for leather that's: naked, aniline-dyed, pull-up or oil stuffed, like cxl. They have another for leathers, like Jerky hh, that have a water resistant top-coat. It is designed to penetrate the top coat and get down into the leather to nourish it. The oil based formulation will NOT penetrate the top-coat, and will just stay on the surface and leave a greasy residue. The stuff they make for top-coated leathers is called "Leather Care Lotion", and I can't say enough good about it. It wiped on easy, soaked right in, and left the leather supple, silky, and dry. Good stuff, I highly recommend it. My girlfriend kept commenting on how nice it made my jacket feel!

Jerky hh is considered to be mid-weight, but it's plenty heavy for my taste. I asked Andrew if this hh was the same weight as that used in original A2's and vintage civilian jackets, and he said it is actually a bit heavier than either of those. My jacket is a size 48 and weighs five pounds (2.3 kg). It feels heavy in the hand, but is almost unnoticeable on.

Jerky hh is vegetable tanned, and is dry, breathable, and absorbent. Being dry and absorbent, it insulates better than the oil stuffed leathers. Oil is thermo-conductive, not thermo-insulative. Basically, as far as insulating ability, it's like wearing wet leather. Dry leather is warmer. I keep hearing people say leather doesn't provide any warmth, that it's only the liner that does. Well, all I have in mine is cotton drill, and it's comfortable to wear outdoors down into the fifties over just a tee shirt, and into the forties with a fleece vest. And, because it's breathable, it's comfortable to wear indoors, like watching a movie in a theater, eating a meal in a restaurant, or walking around a mall.

I think mid-weight Jerky Horsehide is an under-appreciated leather that makes a beautiful, comfortable, and functional jacket. I keep looking at these picture of Vicensa and Shinki, and thinking they have less character than my plain old Jerky. They may have more variations in color, but they have less grain. And as the top-coat wears, the Jerky develops more variation in color too.

I'm not trying to say that Jerky is better than any of the other leathers, it's just a different option, and deserves to take its place at the table with the rest of them.

Bob

 

[AdeeC]

Aero real deal compared to original Dubow Jacket with has over 70 years of more wear and leather dressing. Variation of grain can be seen around real deal collar. To the naked eye the colours are very similar but the Dubow appears slightly darker with the phone camera. They have a similar leather coating also.