Homburg Nation

[Mean Eyed Matt]

Those inside sweat label stamps are often seen. Many of my hats have them. I don't think they mean anything other than to the manufacturer, but I too would be interested to hear if they can be deciphered.

Steve, I have seen that in one of my hats too, but don't know which.
My intention was that these from Italian manufacturers/suppliers
might look different and have a different letter-number sequence
than, for example, French or German manufacturers.
So maybe it could confirm Daniele's assumption.

Has anyone ever looked through this systematically?
However, it will probably not lead to any results...

 

[Daniele Tanto]

I was comparing the Danfelt to a 50s Borsalino,
as the only Italian soft-fur felts I own are three 50s Borsalinos,
all very similar in felt and finish - so pure pragmatism...
The felt is rougher and "fuzzier" and the lining feels "cheaper".
But as you say: a hat for the smaller purse - but still beautiful!
The "Rival" homburg from Monza, which I showed here once before,
is a wool felt and therefore difficult to compare.

On the other hand, I think that might be a "summer version":
the sweat is also thinner, just like the felt itself.
And another addition that I hadn't noticed before:
There is a stamp on the inside of the sweat, maybe
from the leather supplier, or what do you think?
Maybe that could be another confirmation of your assumption of origin?

You know Matt, I continue to read and see written that the Borsalino is from the 50s as if there was a special category of Borsalino made in those years that I am wary of the abused term Borsalino Fifties. Having said that and considering your question about molds within the sweatband, my observations are the following: in French hats I have there are in the 85%, less then the 15% in Italian hats in my collection. What they mean I do not know, but they refer, personal opinion, to the lots of leather from which they were made or, perhaps, a reference signal for the lots of hats on which they were inserted. Deciphering the paper labels and other signs found inside the hats is an often unsuccessful hobby because the variations are too many to catalog.
I found some very interesting enigma above all in Borsalino where label are detached and replace or some pencil correction mad more puzzling the origin

 

[Mean Eyed Matt]

You know Matt, I continue to read and see written that the Borsalino is from the 50s as if there was a special category of Borsalino made in those years that I am wary of the abused term Borsalino Fifties. Having said that and considering your question about molds within the sweatband, my observations are the following: in French hats I have there are in the 85%, less then the 15% in Italian hats in my collection. What they mean I do not know, but they refer, personal opinion, to the lots of leather from which they were made or, perhaps, a reference signal for the lots of hats on which they were inserted. Deciphering the paper labels and other signs found inside the hats is an often unsuccessful hobby because the variations are too many to catalog.
I found some very interesting enigma above all in Borsalino where label are detached and replace or some pencil correction mad more puzzling the origin

Daniele, now I understood what you mean - I think.
As a small comparison from my own experience: no matter what hat
- whatever brand and whatever shape - I wear, I am often asked among my friends
if it is a Borsalino. I think that the advertising strategists "back then" did a very good job,
because it obviously still has an effect today. Here in Germany, no one under 80 years
has heard of Mayser, Wegener, Hückel, etc. Borsalino, on the other hand,
is the epitome of the legendary "felt hat" - just as Stetson is for the "cowboy hat".
My concern was actually to point out that my only comparison for the "Danfelt"
in contemporaneous Italian hats are stamp-dated (1952, 1956) and by Borsalino.
If I had other comparable hats from Italy, I would have listed and discussed them too.
I understand your argument, will try not to use the category "Borsalino fifties"
in this way and write more precisely.

For the stamps inside the sweat:
Thanks for sharing your impressions and your opinion on this subjekt.

 

[mayserwegener]

Daniele, now I understood what you mean - I think.
As a small comparison from my own experience: no matter what hat
- whatever brand and whatever shape - I wear, I am often asked among my friends
if it is a Borsalino. I think that the advertising strategists "back then" did a very good job,
because it obviously still has an effect today. Here in Germany, no one under 80 years
has heard of Mayser, Wegener, Hückel, etc. Borsalino, on the other hand,
is the epitome of the legendary "felt hat" - just as Stetson is for the "cowboy hat".
My concern was actually to point out that my only comparison for the "Danfelt"
in contemporaneous Italian hats are stamp-dated (1952, 1956) and by Borsalino.
If I had other comparable hats from Italy, I would have listed and discussed them too.
I understand your argument, will try not to use the category "Borsalino fifties"
in this way and write more precisely.

For the stamps inside the sweat:
Thanks for sharing your impressions and your opinion on this subjekt.

Matt, Mayser is still fairly well known for Men's Hiking Wool Felts, Men's Wool Caps, Women's Wool Felt Hats, Wool Caps in Germany. They are a niche product like Borsalino but at lower price point. Wegener is still around but mostly sourcing everything and also a lower price point. Here in America probably the only people that would know the name Borsalino are Orthodox Jews. Stetson is well known but mostly for Western / Cowboy Hat styles.

 

[Mean Eyed Matt]

Matt, Mayser is still fairly well known for Men's Hiking Wool Felts, Men's Wool Caps, Women's Wool Felt Hats, Wool Caps in Germany. They are a niche product like Borsalino but at lower price point. Wegener is still around but mostly sourcing everything and also a lower price point. Here in America probably the only people that would know the name Borsalino are Orthodox Jews. Stetson is well known but mostly for Western / Cowboy Hat styles.

Steve, you are right of course - and I exaggerated a little to make the point: Mayser is certainly known by people who are into hats and wear them. Mayser is represented in every hat shop here. But in my family and acquaintances (no one wears hats), no one knows this company. Certainly the 40 years of the GDR here in the East have contributed to this, but I know enough people from the "old" FRG. In comparison, almost everyone knows "Borsalino" - maybe not as a brand but as the epitome of a felt hat. Likewise Stetson...

 

[mayserwegener]

Steve, you are right of course - and I exaggerated a little to make the point: Mayser is certainly known by people who are into hats and wear them. Mayser is represented in every hat shop here. But in my family and acquaintances (no one wears hats), no one knows this company. Certainly the 40 years of the GDR here in the East have contributed to this, but I know enough people from the "old" FRG. In comparison, almost everyone knows "Borsalino" - maybe not as a brand but as the epitome of a felt hat. Likewise Stetson...

Matt, Yes definitely sometime see Borsalino used similar to Fedora in America. I think location also plays a factor especially you being in the former GDR. Also age and function. For example Mayser and others are focused on Causal / Sporting Wool Hats and not Dress Fur Felt Hats.

 

[Mean Eyed Matt]

"Echter Borsalino" Homburg for the German market in "Argento"
Something that has never happened to me before with my size 59:
Hat was listed as 58/59 cm and it doesn't fit because it is way too big!
Size 7 Punti (!) with the crown at the dent at 11 cm, bound brim at 5 cm
This huge beauty is in great condition except for minor discolouration
on the lining and it is also stamp-dated: 17. Juli 1941
That fits perfectly the shop where it was sold - Max Eckard, Berlin -
which did not survive WWII (as Steve once noted).

 

[Steve1857]

Super find, Matt. Damn, it's a shame it's too big for you.

"Echter Borsalino" Homburg for the German market in "Argento"
Something that has never happened to me before with my size 59:
Hat was listed as 58/59 cm and it doesn't fit because it is way too big!
Size 7 Punti (!) with the crown at the dent at 11 cm, bound brim at 5 cm
This huge beauty is in great condition except for minor discolouration
on the lining and it is also stamp-dated: 17. Juli 1941
That fits perfectly the shop where it was sold - Max Eckard, Berlin -
which did not survive WWII (as Steve once noted).

 

[mayserwegener]

"Echter Borsalino" Homburg for the German market in "Argento"
Something that has never happened to me before with my size 59:
Hat was listed as 58/59 cm and it doesn't fit because it is way too big!
Size 7 Punti (!) with the crown at the dent at 11 cm, bound brim at 5 cm
This huge beauty is in great condition except for minor discolouration
on the lining and it is also stamp-dated: 17. Juli 1941
That fits perfectly the shop where it was sold - Max Eckard, Berlin -
which did not survive WWII (as Steve once noted).

Matt, Really super find! This also proves for Echter Borsalinos that the separate size stamp is from this time period. Max Eckhard Berlin didn't survive WWII.

 

[steur]

"Echter Borsalino" Homburg for the German market in "Argento"
Something that has never happened to me before with my size 59:
Hat was listed as 58/59 cm and it doesn't fit because it is way too big!
Size 7 Punti (!) with the crown at the dent at 11 cm, bound brim at 5 cm
This huge beauty is in great condition except for minor discolouration
on the lining and it is also stamp-dated: 17. Juli 1941
That fits perfectly the shop where it was sold - Max Eckard, Berlin -
which did not survive WWII (as Steve once noted).

Again, Matt: magnificent!

 

[steur]

Willoughby homburg in black. Size 56 with the modest brim at 5cm and the crown at 11,5cm at the center dent. It doesn't say anything other than fur felt, but I suspect this not a rabbit fur. I'm thinking nutria, because of the way the felt feels and shapes. It has a fantastic hand to it. The finishing is top notch on this one and I really like the classy looking liner. It has the Willoughby label inside of it, so no obvious source. Weighs 140 grams, so not a lightweight.

 

[Rmccamey]

That's a beauty, Stefan.

Willoughby homburg in black. Size 56 with the modest brim at 5cm and the crown at 11,5cm at the center dent. It doesn't say anything other than fur felt, but I suspect this not a rabbit fur. I'm thinking nutria, because of the way the felt feels and shapes. It has a fantastic hand to it. The finishing is top notch on this one and I really like the classy looking liner. It has the Willoughby label inside of it, so no obvious source. Weighs 140 grams, so not a lightweight.

 

[steur]

That's a beauty, Stefan.

Thanks, Randy. Couldn't leave that one behind.

 

[Mean Eyed Matt]

Willoughby homburg in black. Size 56 with the modest brim at 5cm and the crown at 11,5cm at the center dent. It doesn't say anything other than fur felt, but I suspect this not a rabbit fur. I'm thinking nutria, because of the way the felt feels and shapes. It has a fantastic hand to it. The finishing is top notch on this one and I really like the classy looking liner. It has the Willoughby label inside of it, so no obvious source. Weighs 140 grams, so not a lightweight.

Great Homburg, Stefan, even though it's black
This hat and its dimensions remind me of my Henry Heath:
What time frame do you think is your Willoughby? Pre-war?

 

[deadlyhandsome]

Wide brim Biltmore chocolate brown Imperial homburg:

 

[JJ Katz]

Some really fine lids on show here...
Here is a picture of my one and only Homburg, to date, being worn.

 

[Steve1857]

Yet another look that rocks, JJ. Again, please post more photos of your Homburg inside and out.

Some really fine lids on show here...
Here is a picture of my one and only Homburg, to date, being worn.

View attachment 343578

 

[steur]

Wide brim Biltmore chocolate brown Imperial homburg:

View attachment 343157 View attachment 343158 View attachment 343159 View attachment 343160 View attachment 343161 View attachment 343162

Gorgeous colour and a nice wide brim on that one, Brent.

 

[steur]

Some really fine lids on show here...
Here is a picture of my one and only Homburg, to date, being worn.

View attachment 343578

Great look and you need more homburgs, obviously

 

[JJ Katz]

Thanks V M gents. I’m not really a proper hat collector so I tend to only really wear them as part of that sort of outfit. I’ll take pics soon.