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Homburg Nation

AbbaDatDeHat

I'll Lock Up
Messages
8,851
Messages
18,466
Location
Nederland
Picked this one up last friday. Mayser homburg in grey. Size 56 with a brim at 5cm and crown 10,5 cm at the pinch. Quality Alster Extra and the liner is still sewn. I realised it's my only Mayser homburg at the moment. Basting stitch is still in the ribbon.

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Messages
18,466
Location
Nederland
Picked this one up last week. It was listed as a bowler (and used as such), but it didn't look like a bowler to me. Tirard Fréres Supra homburg in black. Size 57 with a brim at 6cm and the crown 10,5 cm at the pinch. It's an earlier one, because it still has the name Tirard Fréres in the liner and sweatband. I have another Tirard which just has Tirard as the brand name. I cannot find anything useful on the brand online however, so I can't tell when the change happened.

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Messages
19,001
Location
Central California
Although I don’t normally go for black hats, I’ve been in the market for a black homburg for a while. I bought this Melton a couple of months ago as new old stock. It needed a new sweat so I sent it off to VS where Art’s minions did their magic.

Now I have a usable hat, but I just can’t warm to the dimensions. I want more brim. So, do I keep it or do I sell it? There’s no way I can get half of what I put into it, but if I’ll never wear it....? What to do?

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Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Messages
12,384
Location
Albany Oregon
Although I don’t normally go for black hats, I’ve been in the market for a black homburg for a while. I bought this Melton a couple of months ago as new old stock. It needed a new sweat so I sent it off to VS where Art’s minions did their magic.

Now I have a usable hat, but I just can’t warm to the dimensions. I want more brim. So, do I keep it or do I sell it? There’s no way I can get half of what I put into it, but if I’ll never wear it....? What to do?

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29ed15e088be7310a2248ff84df6d9f2.jpg


ab5e7c407d4ef0291092faf50f2297fd.jpg


2c6b580e6aa8cae241ea8dd182437e4f.jpg


e777408837c6db31cb58bfbf61100549.jpg


b856f5d3e49424f2a0396c60a6c15813.jpg





Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I'd keep it, and keep searching for a Homburg with more robust dimensions. I like this style of smaller brim, more casual than an in-your-face grand Homburg. Hell, throw a diamond crease in it and really make a statement.
 
Messages
19,001
Location
Central California
I'd keep it, and keep searching for a Homburg with more robust dimensions. I like this style of smaller brim, more casual than an in-your-face grand Homburg. Hell, throw a diamond crease in it and really make a statement.

That’s good advice Mike. It’s just with Homburgs it seems like the smallest differences in dimensions make huge differences. I only envision wearing the black homburg with semi formal attire, but I’m pining for a chocolate brown version for everyday wear.
 
Messages
18,466
Location
Nederland
Just completed my first version of IVAR HOMBURG. Slightly different brim binding compare with my SVEN HOMBURG. This one has a flatter front and back. Still a 5-inch crown and 2-inch brim. Rabbit and Hare Fur Felt.

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Very nice looking hat, Einars. I really like the shape of it. It would be nice if you could get your hands on some real grosgrain ribbon for the finishing, instead of the petersham ribbon.
 

EinarsM

Vendor
Messages
291
Location
Sweden
Very nice looking hat, Einars. I really like the shape of it. It would be nice if you could get your hands on some real grosgrain ribbon for the finishing, instead of the petersham ribbon.

Hi Steur. I fully agree with you. The only real ribbons I have would be in dark brown and black. From what I have heard, these are not made anymore, which is a great big shame. There are, of course, some in circulation but I guess its a matter of time before its all gone and replaced by the dreaded polyester China made stuff. Yiikees!

Petersham still gets the job done since its the right mix of material. If I could start up that factory again to make real good ribbons, I would.
 
Messages
18,466
Location
Nederland
Hi Steur. I fully agree with you. The only real ribbons I have would be in dark brown and black. From what I have heard, these are not made anymore, which is a great big shame. There are, of course, some in circulation but I guess its a matter of time before its all gone and replaced by the dreaded polyester China made stuff. Yiikees!

Petersham still gets the job done since its the right mix of material. If I could start up that factory again to make real good ribbons, I would.
Now and again you see an auction for the vintage ribbon, which always commands a premium price. It is and can still be made, but you'd have to order kilometers of the stuff. Add to that, that you'd have to do that for a wide variety of colours and widths and it becomes a mission impossible if you're not producing hundreds of hats a day. If only...
 

EinarsM

Vendor
Messages
291
Location
Sweden
Now and again you see an auction for the vintage ribbon, which always commands a premium price. It is and can still be made, but you'd have to order kilometers of the stuff. Add to that, that you'd have to do that for a wide variety of colours and widths and it becomes a mission impossible if you're not producing hundreds of hats a day. If only...

Any idea where that could be made and ordered?
 
Messages
18,466
Location
Nederland
Any idea where that could be made and ordered?
I found a few that offer bespoke options for grosgrain ribbon. Just how far that goes remains to be seen. I found these:
http://www.berisfords-ribbons.co.uk

https://www.colefabrics.com

http://www.julienfaure.com/pages_uk/homepage.htm

http://www.armotex.com/en/products/grossgrain-ribbon

Then there are the Chinese and Indian manufacturers who could produce the real product I'm sure, but I didn't delve into that. The remaining hat-manufacturers get their ribbon from somewhere, so it is still made.
 

EinarsM

Vendor
Messages
291
Location
Sweden
I found a few that offer bespoke options for grosgrain ribbon. Just how far that goes remains to be seen. I found these:
http://www.berisfords-ribbons.co.uk

https://www.colefabrics.com

http://www.julienfaure.com/pages_uk/homepage.htm

http://www.armotex.com/en/products/grossgrain-ribbon

Then there are the Chinese and Indian manufacturers who could produce the real product I'm sure, but I didn't delve into that. The remaining hat-manufacturers get their ribbon from somewhere, so it is still made.

Thanks Steur. It's what I have found out as well. Currently using the same source for the real vintage. Time to hunt down some factories then. :)
 

Telemaster

One of the Regulars
Messages
154
Location
Bavaria - Germany
Just delivered today... Needs some reshaping love, the center dent is completely wonky. The color is darker than I had expected from the photos I saw before buying it, but I really dig the charcoal gray with green undertones. It’s actually really close in color to my Bluegrass Green Campdraft on a not-so-sunny day. Is it weird to not find any labels or tags under the sweat?
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Just delivered today... Needs some reshaping love, the center dent is completely wonky. The color is darker than I had expected from the photos I saw before buying it, but I really dig the charcoal gray with green undertones. It’s actually really close in color to my Bluegrass Green Campdraft on a not-so-sunny day. Is it weird to not find any labels or tags under the sweat? View attachment 113239 View attachment 113237 View attachment 113238
Not for that vintage. I have actually been seeing a lot of 60's Stetsons (and even own a few, two even came mint in the original box) that for some reason have no tags under the sweat......I have noticed this with some of their westerns too. The westerns even go back to the 50's.......and again, no blocking tags......
Now it used to be this meant the hat was sent to a cleaners and cleaned and re-blocked, but on a hat that is NOS and has the store tags.....I really have no explanation.
M
 

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