Holy Grail of vintage suits

[Marc Chevalier]

The best vintage 1940s suits I've seen on eBay in a very long time. Their quality and design are unsurpassed.


http://cgi.ebay.com/C-1943-Bespoke-...pt=Vintage_Men_s_Clothing&hash=item19c6ff770a

http://cgi.ebay.com/C-1941-Bespoke-...pt=Vintage_Men_s_Clothing&hash=item19c7008c07

 

[Marc Chevalier]

Yet another indication that, at least on eBay, the very rarest and best vintage men's suits continue to be recession-proof.


The first of those two suits is commanding the highest price because of its color: light green and cream are a rare combination, whereas light brown and cream are more common. In terms of their cut and style, the two suits seem identical.

 

[thunderw21]

The fabric patterns and linings are a hoot!

I especially like the green one. Green seemed to be a fairly popular color for menswear back then.

 

[Baron Kurtz]

Take a couple inches off the chest and the price would plummet. Quality is not all in the vintage market, as we know.

These are fantastic suits, however. The fabric on the first was wild!

I agree, green seemed to be quite popular, but one doesn't come across it too much in suitings. I have a wonderful green/red 1930s sharkskin, but not much more than that …

bk

 

[Marc Chevalier]

Their silhouette is virtually identical to that of "Tyrone Power"'s suit below:

 

[Mario]

Those suits are absolutely gorgeous. They immediately commanded my attention when they first turned up on the 'Bay during one of my rambles. Of course they were nowhere near my size, as it always the case with suits of that caliber...

But then I don't think I could have pulled off the green one anyway. You'd need a real good dose of confidence to wear that suit and look good in it.

 

[Salieri]

While those suits are awesome in terms of style and, objectively, quite beautiful, I don't especially like the cloth. I mean I can see what one would like about them but I would never choose that fabric out of a swatch book; it looks like something you'd throw over a sofa to protect it from dog hairs - or a napkin from a greek restaurant.

 

[Mario]

^^ Oh, I actually liked the brown suit a lot.

 

[Mr Vim]

I literally cried when the measurements weren't to my size. True story.

 

[rachelolive92]

Those suits are absolutely gorgeous.

 

[Wambleyburger]

I came extremely close to bidding on the tan suit, even though it wasn't in my size. And, I agree, if the size had been a few inches smaller all the way around, I think the price would have dropped considerably. I'm a pretty small statured guy and I would have bid in a heartbeat had that been the case. Oh, well.
Although, had I won the auction, I don't know if I could have brought myself to alter the suit from it's original measurements, especially knowing the history behind it.

 

[Flat Foot Floey]

I forgot how to get pictures from ebay (source code?) but we should save and upload them. otherwise this trhead would be wortless as soon ebay takes the auction infos down.

i really like the weave of the suits. wild but great.

 

[Feraud]

Here are the auction photos and text noted for posterity -

If you like vintage clothing and are the true sartorial enthusiast, this item should interest you. First of all, it was completely handmade in June of 1943 in New York City by the eponymous firm of Twyeffort Inc. located at 620 Fifth Ave. Raymond G. Twyeffort was a somewhat legendary custom clothier of his day and a minor celebrity in his own right. Regarded as a taste-maker and expert on men's fashion, he was the second generation of a thriving ultra high end tailoring firm. Raymond G. Twyeffort was educated at Horace Mann and later apprenticed in London, England. He shared the same address in a co-op with the Goulds and served only the very wealthiest of Americans throughout the first half of the 20th century. As such, this particular suit was commissioned by H.M. Swift. Mr. H. M. Swift was the grandson of Gustavus Swift founder of Swift & Co. the one of the largest meat packing concerns in the United States. Mr. H M Swift had homes and business interests in St. Louis, Chicago, Florida, New York City and Paris. I am told by a relative that this suit likely lunched at "21" on many occasions. This suit's tailor, Raymond G. Twyeffort is said to have favored distinct, vibrant color in men's dress. He is was quoted as saying that a man should dress" more as a peacock than a penguin". Indeed, this suit bears out that philosophy as it is a decidedly wild pattern in green and white. It is a very fine wool flannel. Very light hand and soft. All threads are silk as is the jacket lining and arm lining. It is a fully-canvassed suit with broader structured shoulders of the era. The jacket has two-button closure, perfectly besomed pockets, is darted and is vent-less for a slimmer look. Matching vest, flat-front, button-fly trousers, and jacket. In terms of vintage clothing this is about as good as it gets. If you are in to sartorial history, looking for that perfect and entirely legitimate Gatsby number than this is it. You will never see an item like this again....except for the brown suit in this same pattern that I will be putting up a little later....please ask all questions and see my other items for high quality vintage and contemporary fashions. Measurements on this suit are: Shoulders 19 inches seam to seam. Sleeves 24 1/2 inches. Total jacket length including the collar is 33 inches, without collar is 31 3/4 inches. Chest of the jacket is 22 inches, underarm to underarm. Trousers out seam is 42 1/2 inches. Trousers inseam is 30 inches. Waist on the trousers is 34 inches.

 

[Feraud]

If you like vintage clothing and are the true sartorial enthusiast, this item should interest you. First of all, it was completely handmade in June of 1943 in New York City by the eponymous firm of Twyeffort Inc. located at 620 Fifth Ave. Raymond G. Twyeffort was a somewhat legendary custom clothier of his day and a minor celebrity in his own right. Regarded as a taste-maker and expert on men's fashion, he was the second generation of a thriving ultra high end tailoring firm. Raymond G. Twyeffort was educated at Horace Mann and later apprenticed in London, England. He shared the same address in a co-op with the Goulds and served only the very wealthiest of Americans throughout the first half of the 20th century. As such, this particular suit was commissioned by H.M. Swift. Mr. H. M. Swift was the grandson of Gustavus Swift founder of Swift & Co. the one of the largest meat packing concerns in the United States. Mr. H M Swift had homes and business interests in St. Louis, Chicago, Florida, New York City and Paris. I am told by a relative that this suit likely lunched at "21" on many occasions. May have also been to Saratoga for the races. This suit's tailor, Raymond G. Twyeffort is said to have favored distinct, vibrant color in men's dress. He is was quoted as saying that a man should dress" more as a peacock than a penguin". Indeed, this suit bears out that philosophy as it is a decidedly wild pattern in brown and white. It is a very fine wool flannel. Very light hand and soft. All threads are silk as is the jacket lining and arm lining. It is a fully-canvassed suit with broader structured shoulders of the era. The jacket has two-button closure, perfectly besomed pockets, is darted and is vent-less for a slimmer look. Matching vest, double English style pleated-front, button-fly trousers, and jacket. In terms of vintage clothing this is about as good as it gets. If you are in to sartorial history, looking for that perfect and entirely legitimate Gatsby number than this is it. You will never see an item like this again....except for the brown suit in this same pattern that I will be putting up a little later....please ask all questions and see my other items for high quality vintage and contemporary fashions. Measurements on this suit are: Shoulders 19 inches seam to seam. Sleeves 24 1/2 inches. Total jacket length including the collar is 33 inches, without collar is 31 3/4 inches. Chest of the jacket is 22 inches, underarm to underarm. Trousers out seam is 42 1/2 inches. Trousers inseam is 30 inches. Waist on the trousers is 34 inches. Please note that the trousers of this suit have a buckle back to adjust the waist more like English bespoke trousers.

 

[Tomasso]

A few tidbits about the tailor, the colorful Raymond Godfrey Twyeffort:

in 1937, Life magazine reported that Mr. Twyeffort changed his clothes 30 times a week. He was of the opinion that men’s clothes were needlessly dull and told Life, “The black tuxedo dinner jacket is dead.” His shop was full of dinner jackets of burgundy, green and cocoa, and he also offered a sapphire blue tailcoat. He seems to have been prematurely chromatic.


http://www.nytimes.com/2011/02/20/realestate/20streetscapes.html




Mr. Wright is one of Twyeffort's out-of-town customers, he is 84 years old, and lives in Springfield, Ill. Mr. Wright's rejuvenation began four years ago when Twyeffort noticed "he was a colorful type for his age," and said on his first appearance in the shop, "You wear colored underwear, don't you?" Mr. W. admitted that he did, and Twyeffort urged, "Be a man not a coward! Wear your color outside!" He built Mr. Wright a suit of midnight blue, later on "more adventuresome" of seafoam green, then one of maroon, and finally an orange dinner jacket to be worn with a yellow vest and a scarlet cummerbund


http://www.newyorker.com/archive/1939/09/23/1939_09_23_022_TNY_CARDS_000178539





At the 1934 National Association of Merchant Tailors of America convention:


He was conspicuous at the convention in a large-checked rope-shouldered suit of grey and red, with flaming red handkerchief, white spats and chamois gloves. (He kept the left one on.) He has no sympathy for men who do not believe in color. Cried he: "Color will bring back prosperity!"



http://www.time.com/time/magazine/article/0,9171,746953,00.html

 

[TCMfan25]

Their silhouette is virtually identical to that of "Tyrone Power"'s suit below:

I thought that was Tyrone Power when I saw the scan in the Sticky!

 

[TCMfan25]

I saw these and weeped as I looked at my humble teenage bank account ...

 

[TipOfTheHat]

Wow. If only modern day suits had this style and flair. My last suit I gave to goodwill because it was so blah and got tired of seeing it in the closet..

 

[Wambleyburger]

Yeah, they definitely don't make them like that anymore. Either in quality or in style.

 

[Tomasso]

Yeah, they definitely don't make them like that anymore. Either in quality or in style.

The quality and cut are certainly available today from bespoke tailors but as for those particular suitings.........