HNC Hatworks (formerly known as Agnoulita Hats)

[Redfokker]

Usually the maxim of “cheap you buy, cheap you get” is pretty accurate. These Agnoulitas are not comparable to the better custom hatters, but I think they’re better than most Stetsons and he only charges Akubra money for them.


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The finish of this one is not pounced as finely as some but I kind of like it. I'm interested in the antelope finish. You will be my guinea pig. I'll order one based on your review. Doesn't seem like I'll have to wait too long. This is a definite possibility!

 

[deadlyhandsome]

The finish of this one is not pounced as finely as some but I kind of like it. I'm interested in the antelope finish. You will be my guinea pig. I'll order one based on your review. Doesn't seem like I'll have to wait too long. This is a definite possibility!

I agree with the pouncing, but at this price something has to give. I also like felt like this on some hats; I wouldn’t want all my hats to have this finish but I like adding them to the mix. I too am curious as to the antelope finish (I ordered two in that finish: marine blue and caramel).

 

[Redfokker]

I agree with the pouncing, but at this price something has to give. I also like felt like this on some hats; I wouldn’t want all my hats to have this finish but I like adding them to the mix. I too am curious as to the antelope finish (I ordered two in that finish: marine blue and caramel).

Marine blue? Oh you tease! Can't wait to see that one.

 

[deadlyhandsome]

Marine blue? Oh you tease! Can't wait to see that one.

Who knows what it will actually look like. The color samples are too small to be of much value. The photo has been enlarged and no doubt distorted. The good news is that I only have to wait one month.


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[deadlyhandsome]

I’ve received some PMs so I thought I’d post more on Agnoulita to address the questions.

Agnoulita is scary fast for a custom hatter: I asked him about three hats on April 19 and on April 21 this is his response:

Hello, Brent.

I would love to work on your new hats. I am ok with specs so you should be expecting some pics around next Thu or Friday.

Yours,

Mr. P.

One week from ordering to getting photos of blocked hats with ribbon/binding superimposed for approval of colors and then another couple of days to finish the hats!

Trade offs compared to true custom hatters? For certain! The pouncing and the detail work is an order of magnitude behind the better custom hatters. If you demand perfection this is not your hatter. I’ve asked for my current order to be pounced to a finer finish, and I offered to pay a premium for it, so we’ll see how they turn out. I will say that the sweats are as nice as any I own and the entire hat is more than acceptable for what I was expecting.

Example of finish details: I’ve included photos of where the brim bindings butt together. Agnoulita is the only one that overlaps and the look is sloppy, but you don’t notice it unless you look (sort of like light moth damage to a vintage hat). The other hats are Akubra, Stetson, and Gannon. I should also say that my D’aquino hats have the overlapping brim binding.

Managing your expectations is crucial when ordering a cheap and fast custom hat. If you think you’re going to get VS, Northwest, Gannon, etc. quality you’ll be very disappointed. Although Akubra does a better job with the brim binding, the entire hat is about the quality of a “better” Akubra and that’s how I think of them: customizable Akubras. If you could order an Akubra in any of 125 colors and in three different finishes and get to chose sweatbands, ribbon color/width, bow and ribbon treatments, dimensions, brim treatments, etc., there would be no need for Agnoulita.

Feel free to PM me if I can ever help.

Brent



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[deadlyhandsome]

My latest communication from the proprietor confirmed that they do offer underwelted and overwelted brim treatments as well as the bound and raw edge brims. At my request, he also agreed to pounce the felt to a finer finish and he said he would do so at no extra charge even though I offered to pay a premium for the service. So far so good.

Brent


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[deadlyhandsome]

Teaser photo of the marine blue:

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[Perry Underwood]

Brent, thanks for keeping us up-to-date. That's a great looking blue!

 

[rogerstg]

Big thanks to Perry and Brent for bringing this maker to our attention. It prompted me to ask if they can size hats in long oval. Within minutes, Mr. Pappa relied,"We would enjoy creating this hat for you or any of our styles in the long oval. All you will need to do is enter your customization preferences in the 'note to the seller' section at checkout with any listing, and I will do my best to create a lovely hat for you to enjoy."

Based on that, I ordered a Milan straw from them. https://www.etsy.com/listing/280832282/milan-straw-fedora-fine-milan-straw?ref=shop_home_active_1

FWIW, D'Aquino could not produce a hat in long oval.

Roger

 

[deadlyhandsome]

Big thanks to Perry and Brent for bringing this maker to our attention. It prompted me to ask if they can size hats in long oval. Within minutes, Mr. Pappa relied,"We would enjoy creating this hat for you or any of our styles in the long oval. All you will need to do is enter your customization preferences in the 'note to the seller' section at checkout with any listing, and I will do my best to create a lovely hat for you to enjoy."

Based on that, I ordered a Milan straw from them. https://www.etsy.com/listing/280832282/milan-straw-fedora-fine-milan-straw?ref=shop_home_active_1

FWIW, D'Aquino could not produce a hat in long oval.

Roger

I’ve eyed their straw hats. I’m looking forward to seeing yours.

Brent


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[deadlyhandsome]

Brent, thanks for keeping us up-to-date. That's a great looking blue!

Thanks Perry. It’s hard to tell for sure in a photo but it looks to be just the shade I was hoping for.
Brent


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[Perry Underwood]

It's good to know that Agnoulita can make hats in long oval. I believe I'm long oval. However, this raises a question.

I think I'm between a size 58 and 59. The hats I have that fit me the best are simply "large" sized hats, which I would think is a compromise between a 58 and 59. Would it be best for me to get a 58 long oval or a 59 long oval?

If I wear a 59 in regular oval, there are gaps at the sides of my head. If I wear a 58 regular oval, there are no (or less) gaps on the sides, but the front and back fit might be a little tight. With a 58, I would stretch the hat to allow for a better fit.

 

[deadlyhandsome]

It's good to know that Agnoulita can make hats in long oval. I believe I'm long oval. However, this raises a question.

I think I'm between a size 58 and 59. The hats I have that fit me the best are simply "large" sized hats, which I would think is a compromise between a 58 and 59. Would it be best for me to get a 58 long oval or a 59 long oval?

If I wear a 59 in regular oval, there are gaps at the sides of my head. If I wear a 58 regular oval, there are no (or less) gaps on the sides, but the front and back fit might be a little tight. With a 58, I would stretch the hat to allow for a better fit.

You definitely sound like a long oval. I’m also a long to extra long oval as well as a size 61! Cursed with a head few vintage hats fit. In stiff felt (westerns) I sometimes can’t fit into a size 62 as the felt resists conforming to my head. Soft fedoras will usually take my shape with a little work. I went with a size 62 with both of my Agnoulitas and I’m very please with the fit. For reference, a size 61 in a modern Stetson open crown fedora is definitely too big for me so maybe (MAYBE) these run just a bit small?

Sheepishly I’ll admit that I didn’t even ask him for a long oval when I commissioned my hats. Still, his standard oval size 62s fit me very well.

I’d tell Mr. P your predicament and give him your actual measurements and see what he has to say.

What are the specs for the hat you’re contemplating?

Brent

 

[Perry Underwood]

I like the Drover offered by Agnoulita, pictured below. It's kind of half way between a boater and a bolero.

I like the hat fairly much as it is. However, I would want edge binding, and, for practicality, I think either a grey or brown would be better. Although I like the black, and I think this kind of hat is best in black, I just don't see myself having too many clothes that would go well with a black hat. To me, black suggests a certain formality that is just not practical due to the heat and humidity of where I live.

With the beginning of spring, I started wearing a straw hat and will probably wear it until winter.

 

[deadlyhandsome]

I like the Drover offered by Agnoulita, pictured below. It's kind of half way between a boater and a bolero.

View attachment 116784

I like the hat fairly much as it is. However, I would want edge binding, and, for practicality, I think either a grey or brown would be better. Although I like the black, and I think this kind of hat is best in black, I just don't see myself having too many clothes that would go well with a black hat. To me, black suggests a certain formality that is just not practical due to the heat and humidity of where I live.

With the beginning of spring, I started wearing a straw hat and will probably wear it until winter.

Wow! Interesting choice. I bet it would look great in a color other than black. If you’re not attempting to replicate or be authentic to the style, I’d look at other colors.

I feel the same was as you do about black and rarely wear it unless I’m dressed at least in a suit. Still, others post photos of them in black hats dresses casually and they look fine. I bet it’s more our own perceptions and with some wear it would stop feeling incongruous with casual clothing. As much as I love the Golden Age I also love the freedom to defy conventions and to experiment. Just stay away from dingle balls around the brim and purple longhair felt and it will look great.

Brent




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[deadlyhandsome]

Mr. P couldn’t get the shade of ribbon I was after without going to petersham and neither of us wanted that. He is trying to some grosgrain to get the color perfect. I told him what he had was already close enough but he wasn’t satisfied.

My experience is that if he knows you are a “demanding” or attention to details type of customer who knows about hats he will go to extra effort for you. If you order you need to be specific as to colors, pouncing, blind stitching, liner attachment, etc. No extra costs for the better hats but you have to ask for it (I think he’s used to a less particular clientele).


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[deadlyhandsome]

Mr. P trying to get the right shade of ribbon. I wanted a low luster/dull raspberry color:

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[Perry Underwood]

Brent, thank you for the suggestions and updates. I wrote to Mr. P. and asked for a price on the Drover hat with these specifications, taken from my message to him.

Drover style in rabbit fur
Light grey color (I believe it's P-8188. Please let me know if you have a lighter grey.)
Ribbon and edge binding in color "97" (Not sure about this color. I would like to see a photograph of the two of them together, if possible.)
Size: I'm in-between a 58 and 59. Can you do half sizes (58.5)? Also, I'm long oval.
I would like the sides of the hat as square to the brim (no taper) as possible.
Roan leather sweatband
Please pounce to a finer amount.

I'll keep this thread updated with any new information I receive.

 

[Perry Underwood]

Heard back from Mr. Pappa. They do half sizes in long oval. I'm thinking of going with a light grey felt offset with darker grey ribbon (25mm) and edge binding.

 

[deadlyhandsome]

Heard back from Mr. Pappa. They do half sizes in long oval. I'm thinking of going with a light grey felt offset with darker grey ribbon (25mm) and edge binding.

I’m looking forward to seeing that hat. It’s not a style I own and I’m intrigued.


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