HNC Hatworks (formerly known as Agnoulita Hats)

[deadlyhandsome]

I notice all your hats but 2 have the seam for the satin liner in front. The exceptions are this hat and your long nap dark brown hat with the wider brim binding. Is there a reason for this, and can you ask that the seam be in the back as it is with this one?

Brent, of all the felts you have ordered do you have a preference? Would it be the antelope finish you ordered several times, perhaps?

I like the navy color and the caramel almost looks like a Winchester camel felt on my monitor. Is that an accurate comparison?

I'm surprised Mr. P can't get good beaver felt over that way. I thought the Tonak rabbit was almost as nice as Winchester beaver and the Tonak beaver was even better. Not true? Maybe that was FEPSA? I know the Portuguese beaver has a very good reputation.

I have to admit, I've been slow to get on board with Mr. P's hats as well as Phoenix hats, but the quality on both continues to improve to the point where they just can't be ignored.

I do admit that small things bug me... like the seam on the satin liner being in front, the butting up vs. overlap on the bound brim, etc, etc, and I am so enamored of my hats with Art Fawcett, Mike Miller, Michael Gannon, John Penman and I'm sure Bob Jesse (when it arrives here) that even though they cost more I just feel better with that quality in hand vs. sitting here and having some small thing bother me without me being able to forget about it.... obsessive, I know.

But I'll say, my interest is piqued.

I never specified how I wanted the liners put in. I’m sure he could accommodate your preference.

As to my favorite of his felts, the antelope finish is my preference. Strange that you have to ask for then hats to pounced finer, but you do.

Let me say, I like my Agnoulita hats and I’ve had fun ordering them. There is also a near endless variety of colors in the standard rabbit fur felt to play with. Please understand that these hats are made to a price. If you are expecting something just nominally lower in quality than a VS, Gannon, etc. you will be disappointed. Mr. P is completing a dozen or more hats every day and they just don’t and can’t compare to a true custom. Which leads me to Phoenix.

Rick/Phoenix makes a hat that is in every way better. Rick’s attention to detail and perfectionist streak along with his better raw materials ensures you’ll get a truly custom made hat. Rick’s hats deserve to be spoken along side some of the big names. For the cost difference, the Phoenix Hats just represent such good value. This is the reason I haven’t gone back to Agnoulita lately. As an aside, Rick also offers to sew his liners in whereas the Agnoulita’s liners are glued in.

If you’re interested in fast and cheap hats that are wearable and offered in great variety then the Agnoulita is an option; and some of the hats I’ve received from him have been quite nice (not much consistency).

I had two rabbit fur felt hats made by D’Aquino using what I believe to be FEPSA hat bodies. One was much denser, shapable, and generally nicer than the felt I received from Agnoulita, but the finish work was very poor. The other was very similar to what Agnoulita has used. Strange. I have a Hufvud that is a FEPSA rabbit and hare blend that I really like in a super soft almost limp dress hat, but I’d still take a Winchester beaver over it. As to FEPSA beaver and beaver blend hats, maybe someday. [emoji4]

I can’t say what’s right for you, but I wouldn’t choose Agnoulita unless you’re not a picky customer who wants to just give them a try. I would unhesitatingly endorse Phoenix. Be advised, Phoenix is backed up and may not be accepting new orders right now. I also believe that the prices are going up in 2019, but you will need to confirm that.

When you’re ready you should send Rick an email:

phoenixhats@outlook.com

Good luck


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[jlee562]

Nice job on the Torino. Will it be possible to get a 5 1/2 open down to a 4 inch? What the technique for lowering the crown??

depends on the shape of your skull.

you just push the crease lower with your thumb or finger, it's not rocket science. Sure it takes practice to get clean, even lines, but there really is no mystery about it. Start with the center crease....I eyeball and do a soft 'karate chop' with my hand. Other folks use rolling pins. If you want to add a diamond, push down on the sides. If you want a teardrop, smooth out the diamond crease.

 

[Obi1]

I ordered all of my Agnoulitas open crown, but they were all delivered 100% completed. No tools are required to shape a hat, but a water mister and a source of steam can certainly help.

If you ordered hat bodies you will need a block and flange at the minimum, and a lot more tools for convenience. A band block is nice, as is a puller downer and a rounding jack. A foot tolliker is also needed. I personally hate sewing on sweats, but I like the awl method best. Ribbons are simple and just take practice, but sewing them on where the stitches are not visible as the ribbon is tight to the crown/brim break takes patience.

Ordering a hat body and making your own hat is a jump into the deep end and I commend you for your dedication.


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I have already begun making most of the tools I will need. I work in a shop with and have myself most of the woodworking tools needed to make the hat making tools. The only thing I'm lacking is a bandsaw large enough for making a real wood block. I'm shopping for the saw but in the meantime may use foam and wood filler or build the block in layers with a smaller saw then glue and finish with a sander. I have even made my own makeshift conformator with a wooden ring and dowels.

 

[deadlyhandsome]

I have already begun making most of the tools I will need. I work in a shop with and have myself most of the woodworking tools needed to make the hat making tools. The only thing I'm lacking is a bandsaw large enough for making a real wood block. I'm shopping for the saw but in the meantime may use foam and wood filler or build the block in layers with a smaller saw then glue and finish with a sander. I have even made my own makeshift conformator with a wooden ring and dowels.

Wow, I’m looking forward to seeing your finished hat(s). If you can make accurate reproductions of vintage blocks and flanges you could also have a business there.


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[Obi1]

Wow, I’m looking forward to seeing your finished hat(s). If you can make accurate reproductions of vintage blocks and flanges you could also have a business there.


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The first one I did I posted in conversion corral. It was an old cowboy hat I found. I didn't have anything but a kettle an iron and a sewing machine for that one. I anticipate the ones I make brand new should be even better.

 

[RJR]

I have already begun making most of the tools I will need. I work in a shop with and have myself most of the woodworking tools needed to make the hat making tools. The only thing I'm lacking is a bandsaw large enough for making a real wood block. I'm shopping for the saw but in the meantime may use foam and wood filler or build the block in layers with a smaller saw then glue and finish with a sander. I have even made my own makeshift conformator with a wooden ring and dowels.

I don't remember which member posted this block but here is an example of one made in layers.

 

[humanshoes]

I don't remember which member posted this block but here is an example of one made in layers. View attachment 142389

That's my baby Bob. I, too, am band saw challenged with a 4" max cut, hence the segmented block. I built this one to be able to interchange the crown tips without making a whole new block. Should be easy enough for Obi1 to replicate.

 

[RJR]

That's my baby Bob. I, too, am band saw challenged with a 4" max cut, hence the segmented block. I built this one to be able to interchange the crown tips without making a whole new block. Should be easy enough for Obi1 to replicate.

My thought as well.That it could be replicated was why I copied your picture.

 

[Obi1]

That's my baby Bob. I, too, am band saw challenged with a 4" max cut, hence the segmented block. I built this one to be able to interchange the crown tips without making a whole new block. Should be easy enough for Obi1 to replicate.

I was considering using paint grade mdf as it is only $36 for a 4x8 sheet. It's easy to shape and sand but finishes harder than balsa.
I too was planning the layered block and just cutting the shapes with a reciprocating saw. The layers will also be convenient for multiple crown shapes needing only one base for each hat size.

 

[Obi1]

So I finally received my hat bodies and the brim is plenty wide but the crown is a lot shorter than I hoped. The owner never responded to emails so I wasnt sure exactly what I was getting. Any idea where I can get a similar 100% rabbit or beaver with a taller crown? I was planning on fepsa next but just cant afford to buy blindly until I get something consistent.

 

[Obi1]

So I finally received my hat bodies and the brim is plenty wide but the crown is a lot shorter than I hoped. The owner never responded to emails so I wasnt sure exactly what I was getting. Any idea where I can get a similar 100% rabbit or beaver with a taller crown? I was planning on fepsa next but just cant afford to buy blindly until I get something consistent.

And I am still on winchesters waiting list till next year so that isn't an option until then "hopefully"

 

[Rmccamey]

I don't have my Phoenix hat...yet...but Rick's attention to detail and front-end customer service has been excellent!

I never specified how I wanted the liners put in. I’m sure he could accommodate your preference.

As to my favorite of his felts, the antelope finish is my preference. Strange that you have to ask for then hats to pounced finer, but you do.

Let me say, I like my Agnoulita hats and I’ve had fun ordering them. There is also a near endless variety of colors in the standard rabbit fur felt to play with. Please understand that these hats are made to a price. If you are expecting something just nominally lower in quality than a VS, Gannon, etc. you will be disappointed. Mr. P is completing a dozen or more hats every day and they just don’t and can’t compare to a true custom. Which leads me to Phoenix.

Rick/Phoenix makes a hat that is in every way better. Rick’s attention to detail and perfectionist streak along with his better raw materials ensures you’ll get a truly custom made hat. Rick’s hats deserve to be spoken along side some of the big names. For the cost difference, the Phoenix Hats just represent such good value. This is the reason I haven’t gone back to Agnoulita lately. As an aside, Rick also offers to sew his liners in whereas the Agnoulita’s liners are glued in.

If you’re interested in fast and cheap hats that are wearable and offered in great variety then the Agnoulita is an option; and some of the hats I’ve received from him have been quite nice (not much consistency).

I had two rabbit fur felt hats made by D’Aquino using what I believe to be FEPSA hat bodies. One was much denser, shapable, and generally nicer than the felt I received from Agnoulita, but the finish work was very poor. The other was very similar to what Agnoulita has used. Strange. I have a Hufvud that is a FEPSA rabbit and hare blend that I really like in a super soft almost limp dress hat, but I’d still take a Winchester beaver over it. As to FEPSA beaver and beaver blend hats, maybe someday. [emoji4]

I can’t say what’s right for you, but I wouldn’t choose Agnoulita unless you’re not a picky customer who wants to just give them a try. I would unhesitatingly endorse Phoenix. Be advised, Phoenix is backed up and may not be accepting new orders right now. I also believe that the prices are going up in 2019, but you will need to confirm that.

When you’re ready you should send Rick an email:

phoenixhats@outlook.com

Good luck


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[Ken David]

Was wondering if anybody had one of these hats in "natural" rabbit? Giving them a try and trying to pick out ribbon colors. Thinking something like gray or silver?

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[drmaxtejeda]

Was wondering if anybody had one of these hats in "natural" rabbit? Giving them a try and trying to pick out ribbon colors. Thinking something like gray or silver?

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Brent, aka @deadlyhandsome, is the Lounge's Agnoulita expert.

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[deadlyhandsome]

The closest I have to natural from Agnoulita is this Caramel antelope finish:

Just remember that not all “natural” colored felt are the same color if you’re basing your expectations from Winchester’s natural.

Good luck. I’ll look forward to seeing your finished hat.


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[Ken David]

The closest I have to natural from Agnoulita is this Caramel antelope finish:

Just remember that not all “natural” colored felt are the same color if you’re basing your expectations from Winchester’s natural.

Good luck. I’ll look forward to seeing your finished hat.


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Thanks! Very helpful. .

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[E A]

Just to say I recently purchased a hat from Agnoulita. To put things in perspective, this is my first breakaway from factory ready-made fedoras right out of a hat store. I am most pleased with the hat, which is basically the Angoulita Hispano with significantly less taper. Looks right, fits right, feels right, and gives all indications of good quality. Mr. P is most gracious to do business with. The price, shipping included, was no more than any of my store-bought fedoras. I would certainly consider Agnoulita a viable option for obtaining a fedora shaped to ones preference.

 

[Perry Underwood]

Just to say I recently purchased a hat from Agnoulita. To put things in perspective, this is my first breakaway from factory ready-made fedoras right out of a hat store. I am most pleased with the hat, which is basically the Angoulita Hispano with significantly less taper. Looks right, fits right, feels right, and gives all indications of good quality. Mr. P is most gracious to do business with. The price, shipping included, was no more than any of my store-bought fedoras. I would certainly consider Agnoulita a viable option for obtaining a fedora shaped to ones preference.

View attachment 156737 View attachment 156739

Thank you for sharing your great looking Agnoulita hat with us. I have to admit that I'm a little less excited about mine, but that is partially due to my choices. It is, however, one of my best fitting hats. I have thought about purchasing another hat from Mr. P but the recent increases in his prices, both for hats and also shipping, make me somewhat more cautious.

Welcome to the forum, too!

 

[PanosChris]

Hi there,

I am new in this group and that's my first post and I hereby would like to share my own experience with Agnoulita hats, since reading this thread highly contributed to my decision ordering from them.

Intro: I must say that I am quite new to hats and headwear in general. I have started wearing hats mainly for practical reasons (currently leaving in Oslo, Norway) but always having style in mind. Mainly I aim for flat and newsboy caps and fedoras caught my attention recently although it took me almost two years to start wearing them in public and not feeling awkward about it. I guess it's not so common these days to see men in early-mid 30's wearing brim hats. Anyways, after owning a wool felt Wegener and a fur felt Stetson I have decided to go for a custom made one. Honestly, before reading it here I could not believe that someone from my country of origin would make such a high quality custom made felt hats other than sailor caps. So I gave it a try.

Order: After throwing a call to Mr. P and describing to him what I was looking for, I was already convinced about his knowledge and professionalism within the few first minutes. Order was made through Etsy the same day for the 5217 model with my customization details given as a note to the seller upon ordering. Mr P came back after few days with some customization suggestions as requested.

Delivery: I really can't say much here since this was combined with a trip of my girlfriend to Athens and local pick up. However I must say that upon my request my girlfriend asked for some felt samples and a brush, for which Mr P did not accept to take money for

The hat: Arrived in a nice red hardpaper box and hat matched exactly the customization notes :

Light grey (P-8188) rabbit fur felt body
extra fine pouncing
14cm teardrop crown
6.4cm snap brim with 6mm ribbon finish
4cm charcoal ribbon with bow finish
chocolate leather sweatband
off white top rayon lining and elephant gray sides

Initial thoughts : Hat feels sturdy but soft in touch with a nice weight. It gives you this feeling of a luxurious custom made item.

Fit and finish : My head measures 56.8-9cm and Mr P suggested to go for a 57.2 size, the result is a lovely comfortable fit that could be easily adjusted to a snug fit if needed (e.g. in a windy day) although there was no need for that yet. I must say here that the overall look of the hat on my head proportions seemed quite bulky so I changed it to a lower profile teardrop. Now it is around 13cm at the highest point. That was of course my mistake since I am still experimenting with hat styles and dimensions. Working with stream and shaping went very smoothly even for an amateur like me. I have to say that although that's one of my initial hat reshaping efforts I am very happy with the result and I enjoyed the procedure as much as the flows and imperfections of a hand shaped result. Now I know, next ones will be ordered with an open crown ;-). Brim is snap, you can actually hear it and can hold almost any given angle and shape. Sweatband feels great on touch and skin and personally I prefer it from the one in a modern Borsalino that I have set my sights on and I tried at least twice per month in the local hat shop ;-)

Compared with my other hats : Not much to say here due to my very small selection. Compared to my fur felt Stetson although it feels a bit more rough in touch, it was much easier to work on upon streaming and the general impression is of a more luxurious hat although a bit cheaper. I am aware though that my Stetson belongs to a budget line.

Overall : I am very happy with my purchase and I cannot think of anything I could expect more from it and as such I can't recommend it highly enough. I am now convinced that his hats offer a great value for money. Therefore more orders will be placed soon, probably a suede finish and a Winchester beaver (which Mr P informed me on another phone call he currently has in 3 color options) and maybe a Homburg in the future. My impression from Mr P is of a person passionate with his work who is willing to do his best to satisfy his customer.

Disclosures : I have no affiliation with Mr P's business neither I know him personally. We only share the common Nationality and passion for our professions ;-)

Photos : These will follow in a another post after I find out how to attach some pics here ;-)

All the best,
Panos

 

[PanosChris]

Here is what I promised.
The hat after reshaping

And me after a walk downtown

All the best,
Panos