Himel Bros jacket, 1st winter update

[Aloysius]

I was told (by a forum member here) the same thing, when I shared my thoughts on the stock jackets sold here:
https://mildblend.com/collections/himel-brothers
They are priced lower than his custom made pieces (and I believe ) lower than his own stock offerings. I went over all 3 styles very closely (this is not something I normally do), but the drum bangers insisted his jackets are made to impossibly high standards. @Superfluous was extremely vocal about the level of stitching finesse Himel’s machinist possessed. I was stunned at the sub par stitching! very similar to Damon’s jacket.
So in short, I don’t think there is a difference in attention levels. Is what it is.

Meanwhile I scrolled through Aero’s stock page right now and saw a stunning jacket that‘s marked down to almost half price because there’s a tiny stitch wobble under the collar and an invisible scuff on the sleeve.

(Sorely tempting, to be honest…)

 

[Damon141]

Prompted by your posts,, I went over a couple of Aero jackets that were slumped over nearby, one made by Julie Leitch, another made by Moira Mac. No such issues whatsoever.* I mention because those are also made by a single machinist rather than assembly line, which is Himel’s explanation. And because Himel has specifically singled out Aero as an example of bad workmanship, as have many of his fans.

I was just doing the same thing but online. I went to the Goodwear leather site which is someone I know Dave knows and respects. He is just a lot more than Aero money.
I randomly picked various areas under armpits, more complicated areas like bulky epaulets, and pockets.

Compare these to my photos.
I noticed Sweetfights had 3 different Kensingtons, there are no really close up pictures though. I'm curious how they look

 

[ton312]

Meanwhile I scrolled through Aero’s stock page right now and saw a stunning jacket that‘s marked down to almost half price because there’s a tiny stitch wobble under the collar and an invisible scuff on the sleeve.

(Sorely tempting, to be honest…)

I have no doubt this level of stitching would never pass Aero’s apprentice level QC. No doubt in my mind. I’ve lost count of how many Aero’s I’ve been through, hell any maker tbh. This is something I would call out. From any maker. I’m a big picture guy but the basics do count. Perfect? No, I don’t care that much. Clean and neat is all I require and I think every member here knows the difference.

There are those that expect perfection and to me that is every bit as insane as letting the equivalent of a DUI stitch job out the door as “Top Shelf”.

But I also believe if you’re building a golden throne for yourself, you’d best be able to back it up. Everybody makes mistakes of course. What’s funny is that I know for a fact Himel can make an absolutely superb jacket, so why these get let out of the gate is utterly bewildering.

 

[Damon141]

Do you think they look at customers that point out these issues as a nuisances?

That's what i picture for some reason, but these crazy doubled up stitching and rapid close ones are INDUSTRIAL, like something you could expect on a tarp. Just feeling ripped off, I just wanted the best like he says in his videos.

 

[Aloysius]

I’m a big picture guy but the basics do count. Perfect? No, I don’t care that much. Clean and neat is all I require and I think every member here knows the difference.

There are those that expect perfection and to me that is every bit as insane as letting the equivalent of a DUI stitch job out the door as “Top Shelf”.

But I also believe if you’re building a golden throne for yourself, you’d best be able to back it up.

This is the thing. I’m not a stitch obsessive but it baffles me that this brand is able to tap into exactly the market that focuses on ‘stitches per inch’ and then delivers stitching far less neat than the brands they collectively trash. At many times the price.

 

[tmitchell59]

Prompted by your posts,, I went over a couple of Aero jackets that were slumped over nearby, one made by Julie Leitch, another made by Moira Mac. No such issues whatsoever.* I mention because those are also made by a single machinist rather than assembly line, which is Himel’s explanation. And because Himel has specifically singled out Aero as an example of bad workmanship, as have many of his fans.

I hope his machinist is okay to be honest. Consider how he talks about his employees in public then compare to how Holly responded when a Himel fan said that Aero machinists could never achieve top quality even with unlimited time or resources because “They just don’t have the skill.” (Incidentally, both Himel trashing his employees and Holly defending Aero’s were in the same thread!)

My view was always that ‘within’ the family/group you might get mad at each other but you never trash your people in public. Himel does that, so who knows what it’s like inside.

*Plus you can get about four Aeros for the price of a Himel, so what exactly is that getting someone?

To bash Ken Calder/Aero jackets is a Fools mission, no matter who you are. He made jackets for Levi Strauss! He knows QC

 

[ton312]

Do you think they look at customers that point out these issues as a nuisances?

That's what i picture for some reason, but these crazy doubled up stitching and rapid close ones are INDUSTRIAL, like something you could expect on a tarp. Just feeling ripped off, I just wanted the best like he says in his videos.

I do not. This is a tenet of the brand itself. Surgical precision, razor sharp, etc. and they have done it. The problem seems to be inconsistency. The thing is, if this is where you hang your hat as a maker, then that should be the standard. It gets done every time. And if you miss, you correct it before the customer sees it.
It’s a large sum of cash for an article of clothing. It should be constructed in a way that reflects the investment. It can’t be perfect, but you should believe it is.

 

[JMax]

This is the thing. I’m not a stitch obsessive but it baffles me that this brand is able to tap into exactly the market that focuses on ‘stitches per inch’ and then delivers stitching far less neat than the brands they collectively trash. At many times the price.

You know why. Yes you do. Say it with me, “B…”

Their designs are normally cool and I do really like most of their D pockets. Hides look really nice. If you are lucky to get one properly fitted and constructed, home run for sure. But…

 

[Aloysius]

You know why. Yes you do. Say it with me, “B…”

Ha, if you were starting with "S" or "I", I'd know where you're going but I'm lost.

Their designs are normally cool and I do really like most of their D pockets. Hides look really nice. If you are lucky to get one properly fitted and constructed, home run for sure. But…

I'll be the first to say I love some of the designs, like the hair-on-hide grizzly, which has a great Western vibe to it (something I think Canadian and West Coast makes should definitely lean into). I'm surprised there hasn't been a popular revival of western cues since the 70s. RRL doesn't count. As far as I know it runs at a loss and only still exists due to Ralph's personal involvement.

 

[Damon141]

Ha, if you were starting with "S" or "I", I'd know where you're going but I'm lost.



I'll be the first to say I love some of the designs, like the hair-on-hide grizzly, which has a great Western vibe to it (something I think Canadian and West Coast makes should definitely lean into). I'm surprised there hasn't been a popular revival of western cues since the 70s. RRL doesn't count. As far as I know it runs at a loss and only still exists due to Ralph's personal involvement.

I liked the new RRL blanket ones, too bold for me to wear but I appreciate the art.

The spirit bear with the cow fur and moose hide is a really interesting piece.

 

[jeo]

Yeah it's bothering me pretty bad Jeo, if it was $700, I would like the bullet, but at this price, it's just too expensive to have this level of finishing, I wonder that since Dave Himel travels a lot, most of the business is left in other peoples hands, I'm not saying he would stop this jacket from going out, (only he could answer that) but I hope he would, if he was there.

You shouldn't have to bite the bullet.

If it's bothering you that bad then you won't be able to enjoy the jacket. There's your answer.

I see you've already reached out. I really hope you get a resolution that you'll be happy with.

 

[Damon141]

Yes, he responded and was quite pleasant about it and said he was going to look at the photos when he had a chance. Traveling now.

He actually said he wished I had contacted him earlier so it made me feel much better.

 

[jeo]

I’m a big picture guy but the basics do count. Perfect? No, I don’t care that much. Clean and neat is all I require and I think every member here knows the difference.

There are those that expect perfection and to me that is every bit as insane as letting the equivalent of a DUI stitch job out the door as “Top Shelf”.

But I also believe if you’re building a golden throne for yourself, you’d best be able to back it up. Everybody makes mistakes of course.

Perfectly stated.

What’s funny is that I know for a fact Himel can make an absolutely superb jacket, so why these get let out of the gate is utterly bewildering.

He most certainly can. I also don’t understand the inconsistency. Here are pics of my Imperial.

 

[jeo]

Certainly not robot level precision but pretty neat overall

 

[torfjord]

Certainly not robot level precision but pretty neat overall

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That’s how it should be done, it looks terrific. They need to up their QC game cause that is how it should look every time they ship off a jacket.

 

[jeo]

@torfjord 100% agree.

 

[TooManyHatsOnlyOneHead]

I have no doubt you're getting really high quality materials with HB. The leather and hardware on my Avro are A+

I haven't gone over mine stitch by stitch; it's never been my pain point to be honest. I expect some wobbles here and there so not worried about it.

But what you documented is pretty bad. I don't think any structural issues. At this price point though, it can't have that many issues. Like I said, for the materials he can ask a higher price, but the workmanship has got to be near the same standard. Hopefully he offers a discount or a redo. Something like that would normally be a factory second, etc. so the price should reflect.

 

[red devil]

Do you think they look at customers that point out these issues as a nuisances?

I think he said somewhere that forums were a pain lol

I remember him showing an Aero as inferior to his jackets then not long after complaining that we looked everything under a loupe when we pointed out a white deer skin with terrible stitching. Double standards indeed.

 

[Aloysius]

I remember him showing an Aero as inferior to his jackets then not long after complaining that we looked everything under a loupe when we pointed out a white deer skin with terrible stitching. Double standards indeed.

And the cited reason for those Aero jackets being inferior? Stitch count…

Not bad stitching, just a machine setting.

 

[Damon141]

That Imperial looks great from the photos shared, I agree this is how they should leave the shop. It shows it can be done.

How long ago was the Imperial made?