Himel Bros jacket, 1st winter update

[Damon141]

*mods I apologize in advance if this should be in another thread but I couldn't find a general Himel dedicated thread.

So my made up measure Himel Kensington survived its first winter, if you can call it here in Florida, southeastern USA. It does get to the 40's at night some days which isn't a lot for most of you but because of this board my love for leather jackets runs deep.

I didn't say anything originally because there was enough bashing of him but it was on my mind recently because I was looking at Jeo's thread with similar issues and it made me take a closer look at mine.

I will say my jacket fits great which is a relief considering it was made with no mock up and honestly very few measurements considering. I know a fine suit can have multiple in person visits to a cutter to achieve a fit. So I was blessed in that it worked in that aspect.

It has held up great, a couple threads are showing but they might just be a stopping point.

I do feel compelled to share my update with you now that I have more knowledge from reading this board every day and I know what is possible.

I was told not to expect perfection because it's handmade versus off the rack because it's made in a different style, one person usually in one shot versus sectioned out to multiple machinist. I unfortunately feel like I was fed a line of bullshit, excuse my language but I look at every picture posted here that I can and plenty of makers have perfectly stitched jackets even at a fraction of the cost. Five Star makes a jacket in a week completely made to measure with no flaws of this kind. I have one to prove that.

I am not a complainer by nature, usually anyway but this has been eating at me because I paid so much, for me it was a lot of money.

The thing is that I would have gladly ordered more in the future because I like many of his jackets, so by making a product like this, they are missing out on repeat purchases.
I actually have 3 different jackets on order from 2 different makers so I'm not blowing smoke about my love for jackets or my ability to purchase them.

From afar all is good but a simple look at critical areas tells a different tale.

This is just some, I could probably provide a dozen more

 

[Damon141]

These I'm actually worried about because they are in stress points (armpits)

I know that this will not outlive me as they say because I've had similar symptoms on a backpack which had holes where the strap connected to the body and they just got larger until they failed.

The holes around the pocket where they missed a stitch just look horrible

 

[jeo]

Yup. Has already been well established that if you're looking for perfect stitching, Himel is not the way to go.

What bothered me wasn't the stitching. I lived with it for a long time and loved it. What bothered me was Dave coming on here and saying he took care of everyone who had issues.

I was fuming and made that thread with the advice of some members here.

I've mentioned this to someone recently. I forgave and forgot. He remade my jacket. It's still not perfect, but WAY better than before. I'm also done expecting perfection. I have many FW jackets and they are not perfect.

I completely understand your frustration.

Did you notice this before or just recently?

 

[Marc mndt]

I remember your first post on the jacket, like said, Himel absolutely nailed the fit. Which I don't think is an easy task given your physique.

I was told not to expect perfection because it's handmade versus off the rack because it's made in a different style, one person usually in one shot versus sectioned out to multiple machinist.

I've heard this argument coming from Himel before but I don't think it makes any sense. I own many jackets that were made by one machinist, non of them show sloppy stitching like this one.

I feel like you paid a high end price for a mediocre jacket.

 

[photo2u]

Truly, the jacket looks great. I think the problem with some areas is the color contrast between the thread and the leather. Because of this, the mistakes look worse than they are. Personally, seen those mistakes often happen due to the tension in the machine and the material of the thread being used. The level of skill of the machinist is top-of-the-line. It is very unlikely to be a machinist's lack of attention to his work. My friend had a similar problem with his DOUBLE NEEDLE UNISON FEED machine. He used it in a very clever way to do "French" on his leather furniture. In this case, the level of difficulty is much higher due to the space between the parallel threads. It looks like 3/16 wide? That is hard to do. My friend's Juki can only go wider up to 1/2 inch.

 

[ragtime_joe]

Good from far, but far from good.

 

[Damon141]

@jeo, I did notice it wasn't perfect but until recently I didn't know just how bad, I really didn't stare at it in certain areas, but something recently made me do just that, and that's when I noticed some of these major imperfections

But really concerns me is the arm pit seems, I ride a motorcycle and in the position of writing the seam is under a lot of pressure, you will notice most makers, add extra rows of stitching on the sleeves for just that reason, now I'm noticing holes beginning to form around some of the double stitching, and even triple stitching, where it looks like the walking arm needle went back-and-forth, these holes are beginning to expand will only lead to failure

Is it supposed to be like salvage jeans, when the crotch rips out you just stitch a patch over it?

 

[Marc mndt]

But really concerns me is the arm pit seems,

I'm not an expert but I don't think you have to worry about the structural integrity of the jacket. Sloppy or not, It's still double stitched.

 

[jeo]

Truly, the jacket looks great. I think the problem with some areas is the color contrast between the thread and the leather. Because of this, the mistakes look worse than they are.

That's being nice. I'm not sugar coating anything. The stitching is jacked.

@jeo, I did notice it wasn't perfect but until recently I didn't know just how bad, I really didn't stare at it in certain areas, but something recently made me do just that, and that's when I noticed some of these major imperfections

But really concerns me is the arm pit seems, I ride a motorcycle and in the position of writing the seam is under a lot of pressure, you will notice most makers, add extra rows of stitching on the sleeves for just that reason, now I'm noticing holes beginning to form around some of the double stitching, and even triple stitching, where it looks like the walking arm needle went back-and-forth, these holes are beginning to expand will only lead to failure

Is it supposed to be like salvage jeans, when the crotch rips out you just stitch a patch over it?

First and foremost, I've seen the jacket on you, looks great.

After two years of wearing my initial Frobisher I had some threads break at some of the edges where it would have abrasion against walls, car seats etc that is to be expected with cotton thread.

You're supposed to be able to re-thread an entire jacket, that's the point of 100% cotton thread, so it's repairable. Your jacket won't fall apart on you, don't worry.

Having said that, I would not ride with a Himel jacket. Get a Langlitz or a Vanson for that.

You're saying it's eating at you. Is it to the point where you don't enjoy the jacket anymore?

 

[Damon141]

I'm not an expert but I don't think you have to worry about the structural integrity of the jacket. Sloppy or not, It's still double stitched.

Yeah I can understand now that I think back to build pictures that but if those holes keep growing they will look like utter crap

I keep remembering the schott jackets I had for years without the holes showing any kind of stress

That's being nice. I'm not sugar coating anything. The stitching is jacked.


First and foremost, I've seen the jacket on you, looks great.

After two years of wearing my initial Frobisher I had some threads break at some of the edges where it would have abrasion against walls, car seats etc that is to be expected with cotton thread.

You're supposed to be able to re-thread an entire jacket, that's the point of 100% cotton thread, so it's repairable. Your jacket won't fall apart on you, don't worry.

Having said that, I would not ride with a Himel jacket. Get a Langlitz or a Vanson for that.

You're saying it's eating at you. Is it to the point where you don't enjoy the jacket anymore?

I know this jacket doesn't offer the best protection while riding but in a state like Florida where most people ride in shorts and T-shirts it's better than nothing and I have other mesh jackets that offer for more protection, but it's nice to wear this when it's cool enough, in a no traffic situation Riding close distances because it also looks great when I reach my destination.

Yeah it's bothering me pretty bad Jeo, if it was $700, I would like the bullet, but at this price, it's just too expensive to have this level of finishing, I wonder that since Dave Himel travels a lot, most of the business is left in other peoples hands, I'm not saying he would stop this jacket from going out, (only he could answer that) but I hope he would, if he was there.

My wife thinks I should reach out, she is the type that doesn't take any crap.

@photo2u i know you are trying to make me feel better by saying contrasting stitch work will always show more imperfections.
But these really shouldn't be there in the first place. Besides that, I have loved this dark brown with cream stitching since I watched the YouTube video highlighting the Kensington, which I made to resemble

 

[ton312]

It’s a shame Damon. The jacket does look great on you. Fits you beautifully. There is no excuse for the stitching. And there is especially no excuse at the price point. It simply should not be.

I completely understand this bothering you and it bothers me too b/c there is no good excuse and the “One good thing” brand propaganda is not being realized. To expect absolute perfection will always result in disappointment but to expect clean and neat, reasonably uniform stitching, is the standard, and one that should be met. The stitching at the hem is atrocious and the doubled up stitching around the pockets and zip are better left skipped.

I had a custom Johnson Leathers jacket with similar stitch woes. It bothered me too and I sold it. I’m not a stitch nut but I loath sloppy work.

*In all fairness, I probably would’ve sold that JL eventually anyway b/c the fit also sucked.

 

[Damon141]

Funny I thought the same thing, if you can't execute double stitch work around the pocket then skip it. It does add a subtle detail if done correctly.

I could not agree more with everything you said, I wouldn't mind small imperfections, this price point it should be close. The back and forth stitches are terrible. I have seen other jackets where they do that it using the same holes.

But over $2,000. Someone should take their time with the process. They have a page for most makers anyways for a jacket that doesn't meet criteria and if in doubt, give it to a friend.
Watch any YouTube video on manufacturing; Trickers for example gets hand inspected by a person dedicated to that before shipping.

I read a post by MrProper, he said something like "tell the maker what is important to you, if stitch work is important to you then let them know you expectations, same with fit etc". That way you know if you and the manufacturer click.
If I would have read that post beforehand...

They have be blind to be unaware that people buying these kind of jackets usually buy more unlike those who grab a leather jacket at the mall. Is a pretty small market and not exactly a household name.
I literally drool over that Beck 333 he made (not the fur one) and would love one on my back. Reputation should be at the utmost importance.

 

[torfjord]

*In all fairness, I probably would’ve sold that JL eventually anyway b/c the fit also sucked.

In all fairness, you eventually sell all your jackets

 

[torfjord]

Damon, that stitching is criminally sloppy and I’m sorry to see it on a Himel jacket once again. Had this been a 200 dollar vintage find I would not have cared much. But at this price point and with the brands claims… it’s inexcusable really.

 

[ton312]

In all fairness, you eventually sell all your jackets

Don’t we all? I just do it the max power way.

 

[red devil]

@Damon141 , you have every single rightto ask for a remake. And you should know that the forum will support you. Last time @jeo got his jacket remade, I don't see why you shouldn't get yours remde either.

Also regarding QC, as I said last time, any professional would see the defects before even inspecting the jacket. The fact they let such sloppy work out of their workshop beggars belief.

 

[Aloysius]

I’m hesitant to wade into the Himel thread waters again having already been labelled a hater, so I just wanted to raise a single question.

One member here was told that Himel’s ready-to-wear jackets had QC issues because these don’t get the same attention as the “bespoke” jackets.

Himel has also posted here that his “bespoke” jackets have QC issues because they don’t benefit from the streamlining of the RTW jackets.

Which one is it? Was it one, then the other? Actual question.

 

[Damon141]

Thank you for the support guys, honestly I didn't know what to expect.

I am new here but I do love this hobby, I know many come for advice, get their jacket and move on. I'm still here. Still want more.

I felt stupid complaining about stitches but this was so expensive and I have a $200 five Star jacket sitting here with no issues, it was handmade too

I sent them an email and look forward to a response

One member here was told that Himel’s ready-to-wear jackets had QC issues because these don’t get the same attention as the “bespoke” jackets.

Himel has also posted here that his “bespoke” jackets have QC issues because they don’t benefit from the streamlining of the RTW jackets.

Which one is it? Was it one, then the other? Actual question.

I was told that same thing by Dave, he explained his process was different than off the rack.

 

[Aloysius]

I felt stupid complaining about stitches but this was so expensive and I have a $200 five Star jacket sitting here with no issues, it was handmade too

Prompted by your posts,, I went over a couple of Aero jackets that were slumped over nearby, one made by Julie Leitch, another made by Moira Mac. No such issues whatsoever.* I mention because those are also made by a single machinist rather than assembly line, which is Himel’s explanation. And because Himel has specifically singled out Aero as an example of bad workmanship, as have many of his fans.

I hope his machinist is okay to be honest. Consider how he talks about his employees in public then compare to how Holly responded when a Himel fan said that Aero machinists could never achieve top quality even with unlimited time or resources because “They just don’t have the skill.” (Incidentally, both Himel trashing his employees and Holly defending Aero’s were in the same thread!)

My view was always that ‘within’ the family/group you might get mad at each other but you never trash your people in public. Himel does that, so who knows what it’s like inside.

*Plus you can get about four Aeros for the price of a Himel, so what exactly is that getting someone?

 

[ton312]

I’m hesitant to wade into the Himel thread waters again having already been labelled a hater, so I just wanted to raise a single question.

One member here was told that Himel’s ready-to-wear jackets had QC issues because these don’t get the same attention as the “bespoke” jackets.

Himel has also posted here that his “bespoke” jackets have QC issues because they don’t benefit from the streamlining of the RTW jackets.

Which one is it? Was it one, then the other? Actual question.

I was told (by a forum member here) the same thing, when I shared my thoughts on the stock jackets sold here:
https://mildblend.com/collections/himel-brothers
They are priced lower than his custom made pieces (and I believe ) lower than his own stock offerings. I went over all 3 styles very closely (this is not something I normally do), but the drum bangers insisted his jackets are made to impossibly high standards. @Superfluous was extremely vocal about the level of stitching finesse Himel’s machinist possessed. I was stunned at the sub par stitching! very similar to Damon’s jacket.
So in short, I don’t think there is a difference in attention levels. Is what it is.