Highwayman - Zip Sleeve Highwayman Database

[Edward]

I’m keeping the standard HWM collar. It’s grown on me. While I love the premier collar I fear that trying to put that on a jacket it wasn’t intended for will result in the collar not fitting the jacket quite right...coming out too small or having a negative impact on the neck diameter. Sometimes less is more and I feel like this next one is addition by subtraction.

Best decision. The Standard Highwayman - Aero's first civilian style (and still their single biggest seller - impressive, given that next year I believe marks its fortieth anniversary) - was based on an original 1959 Highwayman jacket made under that house-brand for Rivett's of Leytonstone. That first jacket Ken made not as a direct reproduction (the accurate repro arrived in recent years as the Original 59er, a real ton-up style; Highwayman back in the day were doing those from at least 1958, while Lewis didn't introduce their own Corsair / Dominator models until 1962), but instead was 'Americanised' in style, basically a looser fit. This was in line with discussions with the original customer, and retro-fashion at the time. Around 82/83, there was a significant rock and roll / rockabilly revival movement, very much themed around Americana rather than the British experience of the fifties (which was markedly more drab and austere).

Anyroad, the Premier Fit Highwayman is not a fifties jacket like it's bretheren. Its design inspiration instead came from another angle. The short of it is that there was clearly a market for a plainer jacket of the Highwayman style, but with a neater fit akin to the jackets of the interwar period. The Premier model is, in effect, Ken's reimagining of what the Highwayman would have looked like had it been produced twenty years earlier. That being the case, I personally lean to the view that the collar styles are from two different eras as are the jacket styles; I don't think they would mix together quite as well as the standard approaches.

 

[Nykwil]

Just posting fit pics for reference. In case anyone wants to know how it fits after awhile.

 

[AeroFan_07]

Glad to see some updates here. I've really been "off" the buying pattern since the beginning of 2022, just hasn't been a priority. I have been keeping an eye out for a nice black or brown zip-sleeve model then this one came up.
Snagged this from the Chicago area off ebay - a pre-loved FQHH Zip-sleeve highwayman. This one has just the right combination I was looking for - 4 zipped pockets, 2 inside pockets, and Nickle hardware. Sleeves long enough for me. Torso is long enough, pit to pit is decent, and it is not a tent of a jacket. Only things I would change if ordering new would be a cotton drill lining and 2" cord around the waist inside the jacket for durability.

This is a "42" tag size, likely ordered through Thurston prior to them adding their label.
Fit details:
- Pit to Pit - 24.25"
- Shoulders - 19"
- Back - 25.5"
- Sleeve straight - 26"
- Waist - 22"

 

[Canuck Panda]

Glad to see some updates here. I've really been "off" the buying pattern since the beginning of 2022, just hasn't been a priority. I have been keeping an eye out for a nice black or brown zip-sleeve model then this one came up.
Snagged this from the Chicago area off ebay - a pre-loved FQHH Zip-sleeve highwayman. This one has just the right combination I was looking for - 4 zipped pockets, 2 inside pockets, and Nickle hardware. Sleeves long enough for me. Torso is long enough, pit to pit is decent, and it is not a tent of a jacket. Only things I would change if ordering new would be a cotton drill lining and 2" cord around the waist inside the jacket for durability.

This is a "42" tag size, likely ordered through Thurston prior to them adding their label.
Fit details:
- Pit to Pit - 24.25"
- Shoulders - 19"
- Back - 25.5"
- Sleeve straight - 26"
- Waist - 22"


View attachment 452178 View attachment 452177 View attachment 452179 View attachment 452180

What a great find! It's hard to get a HWYMan with decent sleeves. You've hit this one out of the park! Congrats.

 

[Hh121]

My fifth highwayman (cxlsh size 38) finally got the result I want, here is my order note. I am 6 ft and 167 lbs currently.
Highwayman:
yes, add 0.5" on entire shoulder
25.25 " on sleeve just to be safe,
24.75 " back
Cord (Brown) lining for entire jacket.
No storm cuff.
Is hem tapered to size 36 works?

CXLSH on this jacket is super soft and pliable with decent thickness, the cord lining is thick and has luxury feel, overall this jacket just feel so much more comfortable than other Highwayman I had.

 

[Canuck Panda]

My fifth highwayman (cxlsh size 38) finally got the result I want, here is my order note. I am 6 ft and 167 lbs currently.
Highwayman:
yes, add 0.5" on entire shoulder
25.25 " on sleeve just to be safe,
24.75 " back
Cord (Brown) lining for entire jacket.
No storm cuff.
Is hem tapered to size 36 works?

CXLSH on this jacket is super soft and pliable with decent thickness, the cord lining is thick and has luxury feel, overall this jacket just feel so much more comfortable than other Highwayman I had. View attachment 454296 View attachment 454297 View attachment 454298 View attachment 454299 View attachment 454300 View attachment 454301 View attachment 454302 View attachment 454303

You’ve spec’ed this one very well. Enjoy and I can’t wait to see the KOTR beast!

 

[Canuck Panda]

My second Highwayman. Stock size 40 from sale page. 2.5oz Vicenza HH (usually they are thicker but this one is a bit thinner).

I am back in the queue for another original HWYMan in brown CXL steer tumbled, so my opinion of the original Highwayman is subjective/biased. The original is the original. The later copies, including it's own premier version (more expensive than the RC one in Japan actually), may fit slimmer... blah blah blah. But the original is still the original. And I've come to appreciate the hem width and all its original designs.

Go (Original) Highwayman!

 

[Bfd70]

Killed it again.

 

[AeroFan_07]

Just seeing if anyone has a Highwayman they want to add to this thread. All mine are long gone. Down the Highway, as they say. Oh well, maybe one day again...

 

[nattevagten]

My Highwayman in lightweight CXL FQHH. Will probably go to classifieds at some point (again) if anyone’s interested.

 

[unhatted]

A new (to me) FQHH standard HWM in size 34. I’m usually a 36 but this is still much roomier throughout than I am used to. On the fence about whether this cut works on my small frame, but am giving myself a chance to learn to love the boxy fit! Thoughts?

Also, it’s around 20 years old, but doesn’t seem to have been worn much. Note how the right sleeve doesn’t really drape! Will it still break in further at this age?

 

[AeroFan_07]

Seems there has been quite a bit of Aero Highwayman discussion occuring so just bumping this thread back up to add to it, there's quite a bit of good info here, in case someone has questions, and of course new photos/jackets etc always welcome...

 

[RDS]

I did post this in another thread but as it was completely off topic it will almost certainly get overlooked. It can apply to most Aero jackets, but as it was specifically in relation to an Aero Highwayman and any replies or further contributions may help others here goes :
‘It’d be interesting to know if anyone has ever fully looked into the thermal effectiveness of the various linings available for Aero Leather jackets. Although I’ve not had one with an alpaca wool lining other than the obvious exception of sheepskin/shearling I’m not sure if there’s much real noticeable difference in warmth between any of them.
As I’d want the jacket to be versatile and wearable in as wide a range of temperatures as possible if I was buying and customising a new Highwayman I’d probably just go with a hardwearing plain cotton drill or a Lochcarron tartan for the lining.
With it being a relaxed fit there should still be enough room for layering if it was cold enough to require it. Also, it’s possible that something like a jumper, sweatshirt or hoodie might actually be warmer than just an alpaca lining.’

 

[Canuck Panda]

Brown FQHH, 50s Highwayman, stock size 40, sale page jacket, regular length, Lochcarron wool lining, cinched fit,

Black Vicenza HH, 50s Highwayman, stock size 40, sale page jacket, regular length, cotton tartan lining, cinched fit,

Pinnacle Horsehide, Premier Highwayman, tag size 42, 23" P2P, custom order jacket, wool lochcarron lining, uncinched fit,

I don't have any of the three above jacket anymore. Only one left is the below Highwayman jacket,

50s Highwayman jacket, custom order jacket, size 40, added one inch lengths, CXL SH, quilted lining, uncinched fit,

So here is what I know from the Highwayman jackets I've had:

1) For guys taller than 5'11", it's better to add one inch to sleeve and torso.

2) Remember that most Aero jackets back length will measure about an inch or so longer than other American brands jackets but actually wears about the same and not longer. This is because the Aero and other British repro brands have smaller neck holes and the neck to hem length will be an inch longer than their American counterpart. 24" P2P jackets has <18" neck holes, vs 24" P2P jackets having >19" heck holes. The only British brand jacket that I've had that is similar to American brands jacket in neck hole sizing and position is SB (Tailgunner).
Edit, just doubled checked the tape measure photos, SB neck hole is a bit bigger (>18") but still not as big as the American jackets (>19").

3) Lining - There isn't much difference difference in warmth between the thinner cotton or the thinner wool lining, it would be a matter of personal preference for aesthetics. Quilted lining gives the maximum warmth. I've also had Aero's Alpaca lining too but I found it to be a bit grabby. The Quilted lining has a smooth surface for easy wearing and the wool batting underneath provides plenty of warmth.

4) The 50s Highwayman is NOT a layering jacket for me because the way they do the sleeves. I can put a vest underneath it but when I try to do a mid layer underneath the armhole becomes uncomfortable enough that I do not do it. This is also why I ended up with going with the quilted lining, but this lining limits the time I can enjoy the jacket down to 4 months or less.

5) Zipper, stick to the Universal and you will be fine. Talon and Waldes are gonna give you potential problems if you want to use the jacket everyday.

With Aero jacket it's best to find an used one first to see if you like their pre 1959 pattern cutting. The used Aero jackets also provides much better value than brand new custom orders.

While my only remaining Highwayman jacket is a keeper for me. I do have plans to modernize it at some later point. The updates would include, widening the neck hole to 19", so the back length will decrease by about an inch relatively, adding an underarm half football and thus altering the arm hole. So basically taking Aero's pre 1959 pattern and making it 60s and later pattern. Probably happen in the next 5 years.

Used Aeros is where it's at. New ones, be prepared to lose at least half of the money and more, and it won't fit like the modern jackets.