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Highwayman what kind of leather to use

AerGuitar

Practically Family
Messages
558
Location
Missouri
It’s realy about the look you want to achieve.

Heavy CXL FQHH is pretty much the quintessential Aero hide. It has a deep shine, has a heft like hardly any other leather and looks very worthy. On the downside it’s stiff, absolutely non-breathable and patinas very quickly.
For me, Badalassi is the polar opposite in Aeros lineup. Very shiny, almost lacquered, looks very luxurious where CXL looks butch. I haven’t yet seen a lot of patina on a Badalassi jacket.

Both work well, and it’s not possible, IMO, to pick “the better” hide.

For versatility, Vicenza may be a real alternative. A bit thinner than the other too, but still far from thin or light. Personally, I never had much luck with the grain, but there are many fans of the hide in these parts, and I am sure for good reason.

Personally: the HWM is such a classic design. For my first one, CXL FQHH would be my choice.
My choice would be Badalassi or CXL Steer for standard Highwayman. I like the structured look of a heavier hide for that jacket. For a Premier cut, my fav is Bada or Vicenza. As for Vicenza and the graining… I’ve only owned beautiful grainy Vicenza in the blackened brown color. I was not really impressed with the dark seal or straight black that I’ve owned as far as interesting grain. I think that my current blackened brown Vic J100 is the prettiest hide I have in my closet.
 

MrProper

I'll Lock Up
Messages
4,687
Location
Europe
For the sake of completeness, here is blackened brown Vicenza.
Next to my Lewis Leathers Corsair made of sheep, this is certainly the most uncomplicated of my leather jackets.

1742848692009.jpeg
 

Pier

New in Town
Messages
9
All'inizio volevo il badalassi color tabacco, ma ora sto orientandomi verso il nero, in teoria il chromexcel teacore dovrebbe comunque mostrare un po' di marrone nel tempo. Mi chiedo quale modello di pelle pensi che sarebbe il migliore per una giacca Highwayman

La mia scelta sarebbe Badalassi o CXL Steer per Highwayman standard. Mi piace l'aspetto strutturato di una pelle più pesante per quella giacca. Per un taglio Premier, il mio preferito è Bada o Vicenza. Per quanto riguarda Vicenza e la grana... Ho posseduto solo una bellissima Vicenza granulosa nel colore marrone annerito. Non sono rimasto molto colpito dal sigillo scuro o dal nero dritto che ho posseduto per quanto riguarda la grana interessante. Penso che la mia attuale Vic J100 marrone annerito sia la pelle più bella che ho nel mio armadio.
Volevo restare su quelle due pelli, è la mia giacca di prima qualità e sono indeciso tra una vestibilità più rigida e un effetto più vintage o una pelle più morbida con un look più moderno, se potessi prenderei entrambe... se avessi scelto Highwayman premier la scelta sarebbe stata molto più semplice e mi sarei buttato su Badalassi ad occhi chiusi
 

cl206

One of the Regulars
Messages
100
1) The leather is CXSH, the colour is Cordovan
2) My J100 is made of chestnut Badalassi and was originally intended to be a boardracer. But Aero said the pattern didn't suit me and so I got a custom version based on the PHWM pattern (which was probably the absolute exception, because I have already bought many jackets from Aero and they know my measurements and stature well).
It is therefore the same size as my two PHWMs and the Ridley, size 44.
Great! Thank you for the info.
Also in case anyone is wondering my current j106 fits very good but the chest p2p could be an inch smaller. My j106 is size 36 and Aero actually recommended 38 which without a doubt would be waaay too loose for me IMHO. At the end of the day sometimes I need to question the makers rec as well!
 

Tom71

My Mail is Forwarded Here
Messages
3,109
Location
Europe
That really is a beautiful jacket!!!! I was afraid to try the premier in either of the CXL offerings, but looks like yours worked out just fine.

I had three Premier HWM all in all, and this was my best fitting one.
It’s the super high armholes that make layering an issue here. Shoulders are super narrow too. As a general rule one size up from the normal range (i.e. two sizes up from a standard HWM) works ok for me.
 

Canuck Panda

I'll Lock Up
Messages
5,014
Buy an used CXL Highwayman first. If you like it, then sell it, and then go for the brand new custom, and you can change all the small details with the custom. If you just spring directly for a brand new custom jacket, your odds of final satisfaction doesn't actually increase.

CXL steerhide is very different than Badalassi. CXL is very heavy feeling and Badalassi makes noises. These will be very different than most leathers out there. I don't think of them as bad things, just different. The Vicenza is a safer option, closer to the other leathers out on the market.

So circling back to getting an used CXL (or used Badalassi) jacket first.
 

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