Highwayman fit

[Seb Lucas]

What's the current thinking around the fit of a Highwayman? Insurrection says they run three sizes too big. I generally wear a 42-44 in leathers so would a 38 really be my size? I like jackets less fitted than Insurrection often recommend. I'm six two and 185 pounds, a fit a 42 1930's half-belt but that's a little tighter than I like. I'm thinking a 40 Highwayman might be okay. Any thoughts?

 

[Cyber Lip]

as long as the shoulder to shoulder measurement isn't too snug, you should be fine. From what I understand that measurement on their size 38 is 18"

 

[HoosierDaddy]

6'2" 185 lbs.
3/4" added to sleeves. Size 40



If I had it to do over I'd add 1 1/2" to body length.
HD

 

[Edward]

The Highwayman is a boxy design (though not *baggy*), and should be worn as such. IMO if you want something neater, do not size down in a Hgihwayman - buy a jacket that is snugger fitting by design. FWIW, my 3os Halfbelt, Bootlegger, Waterfront, HWM and 42 contract A2 Aeros are all size 42; all fit somewhat different but all fit well and "correctly".

 

[nick123]

What's the current thinking around the fit of a Highwayman? Insurrection says they run three sizes too big. I generally wear a 42-44 in leathers so would a 38 really be my size? I like jackets less fitted than Insurrection often recommend. I'm six two and 185 pounds, a fit a 42 1930's half-belt but that's a little tighter than I like. I'm thinking a 40 Highwayman might be okay. Any thoughts?

Yes, a 38 is spot-on. My 38 had a front pit of over 23 inches.

 

[coloradorider]

The Highwayman is a boxy design (though not *baggy*), and should be worn as such. IMO if you want something neater, do not size down in a Hgihwayman\

as long as the shoulder to shoulder measurement isn't too snug, you should be fine. From what I understand that measurement on their size 38 is 18"

I totally agree with both of these. The problem with sizing down a HWM is that the shoulders are narrow relative to the chest measurement. It's important, because it is a boxy design, to ensure that the shoulders and length are correct for your frame. If you want a neat jacket the HWM is a poor choice, especially if you have a large chest-waist drop. I have a size 44 HWM and it has a 20" shoulder and 26" pit-to-pit measurement. For comparison, my size 44 30's HB has a 20" shoulder and 25" pit-to-pit. Both fit properly but the huge difference is the 30's HB has a 23" waist and the HWM has a 25" waist.

 

[Seb Lucas]

6'2" 185 lbs.
3/4" added to sleeves. Size 40

Perfect. Thanks HD and the rest of you. I'm not after a neat fit so 40 sounds better to me. I generally like 19.5 inch shoulders, 23.5 pit to pit and a 27 inch back. I think the Insurrection HWM jacket comes with a perfect extra length.

 

[Peacoat]

What's the current thinking around the fit of a Highwayman? Insurrection says they run three sizes too big. I generally wear a 42-44 in leathers so would a 38 really be my size? I like jackets less fitted than Insurrection often recommend. I'm six two and 185 pounds, a fit a 42 1930's half-belt but that's a little tighter than I like. I'm thinking a 40 Highwayman might be okay. Any thoughts?

I am 42" in the chest. I sent my measurements in to Aero, they built the jacket, and the tag size says 42. There wasn't extra room in the chest--well, maybe enough for a sweater. That was a number of years ago. Maybe Aero is building them larger now?

If you send your measurements to Insurrection, and tell them how you want it to fit, they certainly will be able to sort it out.

 

[simonc]

HD if you added 1.5 inches to the length you wouldn't be able to get your car keys out of your jeans. And that jacket looks brilliant on you in all respects.

 

[coloradorider]

I am 42" in the chest. I sent my measurements in to Aero, they built the jacket, and the tag size says 42. There wasn't extra room in the chest--well, maybe enough for a sweater. That was a number of years ago. Maybe Aero is building them larger now?

I think Aero might have put whatever size tag on the jacket they thought the client wanted at one point. My first HWM attempt was bought used labeled a 44 and had a 27" pit-to-pit. I need a 25" or 26". My second was labeled 42 and had a25" pit-to-pit but was just too short for me. Now I have the 44 with a 26" pit-to-pit and have a jacket that fits.

 

[Highwaymanman]

I am a size 42 chest and have owned 2 highwayman jackets, an Aero that I love and will be buried in and a Sam Walker that was essentially quite rubbish. Both fit very well although in different ways.

The Aero fits very well indeed with a chunky sweater layered underneath. I don't like it with only a shirt but with a woolly jumper it's perfect. It's a tagged size 40 but I dunno if it's a stock size.

The Sam Walker was the opposite. Fit perfectly with only a shirt but I could never have layered a sweater underneath. It was a 38 and I would have kept it if it hadn't have weighed 3.4kg with leather that looked like a rubberized wetsuit and shed a horrible black grease on everything it touched.

There was a difference in the chest measurement - SW was 19 inches pit to pit, the Aero is 21 inches - but the big difference seemed to me to be in the shoulders. The SW was 18.5 inches and the Aero about 20 inches and also has a bi swing. Big difference.

To recap: I'm a 42 and a 40 is good with a sweater, a 38 is good with just a shirt.

 

[jglf]

I have a 43in chest and 34in waist (weightlifter) and went with a 42 Highwayman that tapered an inch on each side. It fits me very well, but doesn't leave much room to layer. I never wear more than a shirt underneath, so it works for me. I also owned a 44in aero a-2 awhile back, but it was so tight in the arms and shoulders and blousy in the back and midsection, that I sold it pretty quickly.

 

[Mr Badger]

I am a size 42 chest and have owned 2 highwayman jackets, an Aero that I love and will be buried in and a Sam Walker that was essentially quite rubbish...

The Sam Walker... if it hadn't have weighed 3.4kg with leather that looked like a rubberized wetsuit and shed a horrible black grease on everything it touched.

There was a difference in the chest measurement - SW was 19 inches pit to pit, the Aero is 21 inches - but the big difference seemed to me to be in the shoulders. The SW was 18.5 inches and the Aero about 20 inches and also has a bi swing. Big difference.

I'd agree with ya, except the Sam Walker 'Highwayman' I own is actually really good leather, a nice heavy steer with a shine and decent stiffness...

I'm presuming two things: that my SW Highwayman is from the 'Aero' era, and that yours was made from the same leather as the SW 'Barnstormer' I had, which was too heavy to walk any distance in (seriously!) and kinda felt like a deflated elephant... happily, I only paid £50 for the Barnstormer and I sold last month for more than twice the amount I paid for it!

Comparing my SW with the Aero Highwayman (Connolly Leather, 'four zip', circa 1984) that I picked up off Ebay for £25 the other month (boy, was I amazed!), the shoulders in the SW are definitely tighter and the waist measurement larger than the Aero – I'm 6' 4" and they both fit right length-wise, but could be an inch or so longer in the arms (and I'm no ape man, y'dig)...

On both of 'em I have to use the cinch buckles real tight, which kinda looks a bit awkward with the heavier SW leather cos it doesn't sit very well under the cinches and the resultant 'bunches' stick out a bit at the side...

My chest to waist drop is only 44" to 38" but if I was going to order a new Highwayman, I'd make sure that you:

* You get the right shoulder width cos otherwise it's really binding
* Get the body tapered & the length to sit an inch below your normal belt line (anything shorter is bloody cold in the winter, longer makes it difficult to sit down in without the shoulders of the jacket ending up near your ears!)
* Have extra length on the arms, as the Highwayman average seems to be 24.5" on both of mine, which is a little skimpy...

Just my opinion!

 

[Highwaymanman]

I agree with what you wrote 100% Badger. Can I ask, did any of your SW's have an alpaca lining? THat seems to be an Aero indicator as far as I can tell. mine had a low quality tartan blanket lining.

 

[Mr Badger]

I agree with what you wrote 100% Badger. Can I ask, did any of your SW's have an alpaca lining? THat seems to be an Aero indicator as far as I can tell. mine had a low quality tartan blanket lining.

Hmm, well, the 'Barnstormer' had a black alpaca lining, and it was an awful coat, while the 'Highwayman' has a green and black wool tartan, and that's a great jacket, so I guess this conundrum will never seemingly be solved!

This is the 'Highwayman', when I posted this pic in another SW/Aero thread, the consensus (if I remember rightly) was that it was Aero-made, although that's never been (nor likely to ever be!) substantiated!

 

[HoosierDaddy]

Seems to me that Ken Calder cleared that up years ago on another forum about Sam Walker. I remember him saying SW once sold Aero jackets labeled as 'Aero' jackets for Aero..until SW decided to have copies made to look like Aeros selling for less. Then the Aero SW relationship ended. So I have never understood the ongoing controversy that seems to be never ending.
HD

 

[Worf]

Errrrr HD did I mention how good that jacket looks on ya? Question though... Heavy FQHH does it EVER get softer? I've a used jacket from Graeme who said he beat it to piss. I wore it this morning and it STILL sits upright by itself with just a minor assist from a chair back. I put my hat on it as well... Amazing!

Worf

 

[Smithy]

Errrrr HD did I mention how good that jacket looks on ya? Question though... Heavy FQHH does it EVER get softer? I've a used jacket from Graeme who said he beat it to piss. I wore it this morning and it STILL sits upright by itself with just a minor assist from a chair back. I put my hat on it as well... Amazing!

Worf

Hi Worf, my Aero Barnstormer has softened up a bit since I got it back in April. Actually wore it into work today. Still a substantial jacket/coat but I find it a pleasure to wear.

 

[HoosierDaddy]

Thanks Worf.
I don't think Aero's hvy FQHH ever 'softens' up like other hides. What it does do is relaxes and molds to the body so it is easy to slip on and wear kinda like a well used house slipper.
HD

 

[HoosierDaddy]

After approx 7 years of wear...with probably my lowest waisted jeans.