Peter Mackin
One Too Many
- Messages
- 1,104
- Location
- glasgow
I got measured for mine at the factory.it's a size 42.I'm 5.10 & 90kilo ...it fitted great not baggy in the slightest.I'm amazed that a size 40 fits likethat on a 6ft guy .
It's take a bit getting used to, I'm generally more a half-belt person, but I've always had a soft spot for the HWM and the hide is stunning.
Peter it is confusing. Thuston Bros took my measurements 6ft2, 185 and recommended a 38. They say they're about two sizes too big.
I don't know what has gone on with the Highwayman over the years. The size 40 in my photo was made in 2000. I picked it up as a return (only tried on by original German customer) from sale page a few months later in 2001.
I normally wear a size 40 in most all of my jackets (occasionally a 42). However, Thurston Bros. has recommended sizing down with the Highwayman the last several years while Aero emphatically
claims that they have not changed sizing or the pattern.
The thing with the Highwayman is that it's a boxy jacket. If you want something that is neat-fitting, look to a different model. The standard Highwayman was an Americanisation of a British 50s jacket, making it somewhat boxier as per the American jackets of the period - Aero do also make the "Original 59er Highwayman", which is a recreation of the original Rivett's of Leytonstone Highwayman brand jacket in that style (close to, say, a Lewis Dominator or Lewis Corsair), that's slightly slimmer. The Premier Highwayman is a 'what if?' design, essentially Ken's conception of what the Highwayman would have looked like had they made it in the thirties instead of the 50s. Much slimmer fit, if that's what you want.
Assuming you're happy with a jacket being simply a boxy fit (it's nice to have a change from the slim halfbelts sometimes), the HWM can be a good option. I say this as somebody who was long wary of it, then got a chance of one on a good deal, took a punt, and now it's one of my most worn leathers.
Looking at the photos in the OP, I'd be looking to try one size smaller at least. FWIW, I tend to be a fairly standard 44 across the Aero range - this is wearing an undershirt, shirt and perhaps a waistcoat comfortably under. I don't size a short leather jacket to wear with a sweater under it as a rule; once it gets cold enough for that, I'm looking at an overcoat of some sort instead. The Highwayman I wear I a size 42, one size down from my regular size. It's still noticeably boxier than any of my halfbelt type jackets, but that's its nature. I can actually cram in a sweater, though it doesn't need it to avoid looking "wrong". Really, a big component in finding the right size HWM for you is in knowing the nature of the jacket cut and being happy with it. Sizing down too far to get it to look slim will not look like a slimmer jacket: it will look like a boxy jacket that is too small for the wearer. I'd recommend one size down from what you normally wear, and take it from there. If that's still too big for your liking, chances are it's the wrong jacket for you.
It's a lovely piece of hide, that, and the simple lines of the HWM are great for showing off a stunning hide without distracting with detail in the jacket.
This is the one that inspired mine. A great fit, not too big, but without trying to work against the fact that it simply is a boxier cut than some other styles. Perfect!
Mn. With all due respect to Thurston, I've never credited that approach. The thing is, their 'house fit', so to speak, is 'Luftwaffe-boy skintight', and I've always felt they were too quick to encourage people to size waaaay down on the HWM. It's just a boxy jacket - wearing a size too small doesn't make it a slim jacket, it makes it a boxy jacket that's a size too small. If you have to go that far down with it to be happy, look at a different jacket. I'm inclined to agree it's cut larger than others and myself I go down one size, but I think going down two is missing the point - JMO, of course, and worth precisely what you paid for it....
Interesting, I didn't know Aero have said they haven't changed.... They will, of course be wortking from the original patterns. Maybe they varied more in the manufacture back in the day? Mine is from the first run of 'Apprentice Made' jackets (mine predates the Robin Hood label, it has the blue label) that were made by the new staff Ken took on when he cam back to running the company; I believe I purchased it, new, circa April 2012. It's a standard 42, and fits me perfectly. I wear a 44 in everything else Aero (except my Bootlegger, which is a 42, though that's based on the slightly more generous, 50s HB pattern, which sits, in terms of fit, somewhere between the HWM and the 30s HB). I wear a 44 in the prewar patterns.
When I made my initial comment regarding my take on the frontal picture with the jacket zipped, I perceived with the jacket zipped 3/4 of the way up I might have seen binding at the chest but only the OP could really make that determination. If binding is in fact present, I would think that sizing down would accentuate the problem. I recall trying on a friend's beautiful Premier HWM in my usual size 42 long, and noted significant binding in the chest and shoulders that made the jacket untenable for me.
Stick with Thurston and get a Vanson Ike? Very comparable style. Or another Aero ofcourse. Maybe a Sheene? The pattern might suit you better.
I think a smaller size would work. This one's just too big everywhere, even around the shoulders. The sleeves are too long which isn't helping the cause. I would try one in 38 or maybe even 36 which, looking at the photos I am inclined to recommend and if it's still too baggy like that, another style might be the only way to go.
Highwayman is a beautiful jacket though and when it's done right, it's freaking amazing. Few members that got it right, in my opinion - I think all of these guys went like three sizes down from what they normally would've bought, so... Might be worth a try, perhaps:
http://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/new-aero-highwayman-the-4th-times-the-charm.81163/
http://www.thefedoralounge.com/threads/my-aero-highwayman-after-6-months-wear.56020/
Would love to see a pic of you in your Highwayman, to see how the fit is...
Stick with Thurston and get a Vanson Ike? Very comparable style. Or another Aero ofcourse. Maybe a Sheene? The pattern might suit you better.